Looks great - setup looks perfect. Makes me want to get a Sam again.
-Jeff
Silver Spring, MD
On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 10:51 PM Pancake wrote:
> Finished product (not crossed cables) attached:
>
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Hi Jay. Love me some Sheldon Brown. Did you notice if I violated any of the 4
commandments? For what it’s worth, they do allow the bars to be turned all the
way until the bar end shifters hit the lower top tube (thus the twine there to
protect the frame). I tried to make them flow straight into
The Four Commandments of Cable Routing:
1. The handlebars must be able to turn as far as they can in both
directions without being limited by a cable pulling taut. Instead, the
turning limit must be set by the handlebar bumping into the top tube
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html
On Friday, January 18, 2019 at 5:51:13 AM UTC+2, Pancake wrote:
>
> Finished product (not crossed cables) attached:
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Should work now, oops:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-2zBoYVScBApm9PO7Ym0_BgB8bg6CKxZ
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Hey Pancake, I got curious about your setup and clicked the link but that
folder is private. Just checking if you meant to do that. (If so, I'll send
a separate request for permission to view.)
Thanks again for sharing.
--Ed C.
On Thursday, January 17, 2019 at 5:00:17 PM UTC-8, Pancake wrote:
I've got my Sam set up as a 1x, and I still routed the shifter (11sp bar-end)
to the left side of the downtube, then crossed it over to the proper channel
under the bottom bracket en route to the derailer. It just makes for a more
natural cable routing, I feel...and helps with paint rub.
On
Is this summary correct?:
Standard routing is not to cross the cables. Keeps them short.
But crossing them is an acceptable alternative that increases housing length a
little, while possible avoiding some frame rub. May require tinkering under the
downtube where the cables cross back for
I don't remember when I first learned about the cross in front/recross
under the downtube method but yeah, if you are looking for ways to minimize
paint rub, it's a good option.
As noted below, under tube bottle mounts can get in the way, but that
varies by bike. On one frame, I had to add
I've done that on bikes with drops and bar-ends when possible, to protect
the frame. It is not conventional practice, but neither right nor wrong.
Did it on my A. H. Hilsen and indexing seemed a little problematic with
socket head water bottle bolts in the down tube, underside braze-ons. The
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