Does anyone have a good methodology for repainting a damaged chain stay?
On Wednesday, March 13, 2013 12:11:02 PM UTC-6, William wrote:
Chainsuck definitely is a huge bummer. It would be an even more huge a
bummer to have it happen on a brand new bike. Like Garth, I'm grateful to
have
On Mar 11, 2:31 pm, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
Hmmm... downhill with low-load and brand new components is definitely
weird. I'd suspect a stiff chain link before blaming an inherent design
flaw.
Count me as another user who experienced this. Maiden voyage of my
Atlantis.
Be careful with this method. I've done that and ended up with a
severely bent chainring and permanently deformed (twisted) chain, not
to mention new gouges on the chainstay. I finally installed a
preventer device.
On Wed, Mar 13, 2013 at 9:24 AM, Jude jeic...@gmail.com wrote:
On Mar 11, 2:31
On Monday, March 11, 2013 4:41:22 PM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
Thanks, Jim, RE: conjecture. Does chain suck happen more often with
certain types of derailers? I would guess that ones with weaker
chain-tensioner springs would chain suck more often. (Perhaps something
w/long cage vs
Chainsuck definitely is a huge bummer. It would be an even more huge a
bummer to have it happen on a brand new bike. Like Garth, I'm grateful to
have never had a bad instance of it. As a shop mechanic, I've seen it
plenty. If somebody challenged me to force it to happen on a brand new
On Mar 13, 2013, at 10:22 AM, Garth wrote:
That may be part of it, as well as monkey see problem in another,
monkey start to have problem. The springs in modern derailers are
weak compared to those from even the 7,8 speed ones. I have a
Shimano LX rear 9sp. that flops the chain all
Another consideration may be chain length. Sheldon has a procedure for
optimizing chain length. I followed it a time or two but it only required
taking out a link or 2, so I went back to just installing them as-is out of
the packaging. Thinking back on it, I can't recall a chain suck event
I guess I must have good enough technique to not to have experienced it ;)
I really don't think it has anything to do with shifting technique. I have
triple's on mountain bikes that get muddy, and I've never experienced chain
suck while riding them. Sometimes my mountain bikes are sporting
Hmmm... downhill with low-load and brand new components is definitely
weird. I'd suspect a stiff chain link before blaming an inherent design
flaw.
(And just to restate it, we're talking about chainsuck with the chain not
letting go of the chainring from the 6 o'clock position, and climbing
Your conjecture makes a lot of sense to me, Jim: chain slack might be the
leading element, suggesting careful maintenance in that regard. I'm new to
Rivendells, and as I check out frames for sale, I can't help but notice the
frequency of scarring to the drive-side stay, so I asked.
On Mon, Mar
Thanks, Jim, RE: conjecture. Does chain suck happen more often with certain
types of derailers? I would guess that ones with weaker chain-tensioner
springs would chain suck more often. (Perhaps something w/long cage vs
short cage given the chain angle.) Seems like the chain-suck descriptions
I've been riding triples since the early 80's ... never once have I
experienced chain suck . I keep my FD perfectly tuned however, and I
guess I must have good enough technique to not to have experienced it ;)
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Bad chainrings, bad derailer adjustment, bad shifting technique, bad
karma...the causes are endless, but they all lead back to one common
denominator: Triple cranks. I'm so tired of the issue that I eschewed
triples and front derailers altogether, and put a 2-speed FSA Patterson
Transmission
There are devices to protect against chain suck. Essentially, they block
the chain from coming up with the chain ring. RR36 has a few pics of
commercially available devices (don't know if they're still around) and a
homemade zip-tie version. Seems like some cranks/chain ring combos are more
Over-shifting? (missing a gear or two or three) Shifting hard on a
climb?
Neither throwing a chain (to the outside) or dropping a chain (to the
inside) is the same as chain suck. This is what chainsuck is:
The general reason is that the chain does not disengage from the
bottom of the inner
I had one of these -- forget maker -- installed by a LBS after the
last disastrous (bent not only chainring but chain!) suck event.
$14.99 full retail, IIRC. Should have installed one the first time
suck happened.
I've made ad hoc suck prevention devices out of hose clamps
strategically placed;
I was experiencing some granny gear chain suck on my new-to-me 82
Stumpjumper after replacing the chain. Turns out the old chain and the
granny ring had developed an affinity for each other, one that was not
carried into the relationship with the new chain. A trip to RBW and a new
Sugino 26t
A lot of times, you can flip the ring and remount - watch for bolt heads
contacting the frame if one side has recesses for the bolts.
- J
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Tom:
My experiences with chain suck have occurred when shifting between the
middle inner chainring. When it happens, the chain is mostly on the
inner ring BUT some of it has gotten sucked between the middle ring
chainstay, resulting in paint removal at the least much tugging cursing
at
Until today, the only chain suck I've had was user ineptitude. But I
managed to gunk up my chain rings on a gloriously sloppy ride and they too
a few miles to self-clean (the primary means my Hunqa has of getting clean).
With abandon,
Patrick
On Thursday, March 7, 2013 7:32:14 PM UTC-7, Tom
On Thu, 2013-03-07 at 19:24 -0800, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Until today, the only chain suck I've had was user ineptitude. But I
managed to gunk up my chain rings on a gloriously sloppy ride and they
too a few miles to self-clean (the primary means my Hunqa has of
getting clean).
A friend of
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