I can beat that. I did some minor work (while working for Stevie's Happy
Bikes in Corrales, NM) on a -- I forget; Madone? anyway, top end CF racing
bike -- that had a clamp-on seatpost clamped on to the cf seatpost. I mean
the type with no struts; all the weight cantilevered off the seatpost.
On
It seems to me that after the heyday of lightweight aluminum bikes with
their large diameter tubing, people (bike people anyway) went one direction
or another: "forward" to CF or "backward" to steel. Around that time, I
heard (well, actually read), someone — perhaps Georgiana Terry — say "steel
On my TransAm ride with my spankin' new orange Rambouillet I saw a solo
rider in Kentucky with a CFRP bike who had his racks (yeah, wait for it...)
P-clipped to his seat stays and fork. Wear was already very evident as were
my words suggesting his great care.
He was so proud of how light his
Joe,
I have a Calfee and rode it exclusively for about 20 years with no
problems. It came with a kestrel carbon fork which has a steel steerer
tube. Not light, but really strong. As you know, I'm not a lightweight, so
I've had no problems with the Calfee over those years. Just recently picked
Sure, but the steel trust has been built up over a century. As it stands now I
would probably trust a Calfee frame because they've been doing it for a couple
decades and seem to be pretty good at it (and charge accordingly). But that
frame is still going to need a metal fork for me. I know what
Joe, you don't know (for certain) what's inside your Riv frame either. But
you trust Grant to build you a safe, good-performing bike, and you trust
Matt from Crust to provide you a good bike. Both Grant and Matt had to
trust that the Taiwanese builder would adhere to their specifications.
I understand that due diligence can be different than with steel, because,
as was said before, CF is relatively new, and the consequences of
frame/fork failure are greater. The one full CF bike I bought was from REI
(I no longer own the bike). I've been an REI member for 40+ years & have
That "due diligence by owner" is beyond my capabilities as a bike buyer. I
don't know what the hell is under that top layer of carbon, and I sure don't
know how to find out.
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I ask because as far as I can see, there's virtually nothing that any
prospective owner can do in the way of research that would help in
identifying good vs poor carbon bicycles. I just don't see what sort of
due diligence you're expecting prospective purchasers to perform, and
thought that
"And what would the nature of this due diligence on the part of the buyer /
owner be?"
The nature of the due diligence would be the research most of us would do
when making a major purchase, which is primarily checking the reputation of
manufacturer, but also looking for history of damaged or
On 07/26/2018 12:48 PM, jack loudon wrote:
Like Joe and Patrick, I also think CF /can/ be safe but the
buyer/owner needs to do a lot more due diligence than when buying
steel. Because the consequences of CF failure are so great, sloppy
design and construction simply can't be tolerated. I
Like Joe and Patrick, I also think CF *can* be safe but the buyer/owner
needs to do a lot more due diligence than when buying steel. Because the
consequences of CF failure are so great, sloppy design and construction
simply can't be tolerated. I would tend to trust company like Salsa (for
I used to have a carbon Trek Emonda but stopped riding on the road so I sold it
to a friend who is still riding it and loves it. I currently have a Kona carbon
cyclocross bike and a Santa Cruz Hightower carbon MTB. They do their jobs well,
are fun to ride, and have held up. I personally would
Patrick, I think the answer is maybe. If you buy a high-end CF bike from
someone like Calfee who knows what they're doing, I think it would be safe IF
you don't bang it on something and IF it's inspected regularly. But it's still
not going to be a race car that, if it fails, spins around and
This is interesting. The article goes on to say, in effect, that well
designed cf parts are perfectly safe -- ie, that if you pay enough for your
cf bit, you'll be fine. Is this a pretty good rule of thumb? I personally
have at least toyed with the idea of getting CF rims (after watching the
Danny
Well, CF frames and components are certainly not as forgiving of ham-fisted
mechanics. With steel frames and aluminium components, I never bothered
with a torque wrench. Not so with CF Components.
Nick
On Thursday, 26 July 2018 05:24:48 UTC+10, Leslie wrote:
>
> Given our perspectives on
The used market was always my big concern about these damn things. Maybe you
get lucky as a new buyer who takes immaculate care of your bike, but by the
time it gets to Craiglist there's no telling how many times it's been leaned on
a light pole and knocked over in the garage. As the article
I used to have a Trek FX with a carbon fork. I bought it used on Craigslist and
got a great deal. I knew nothing about bikes except that Trek was miles above
the Walmart Schwinn I’d been riding, and the Target bikes before that when I
was a child. “Carbon fork” was touted and I was proud to
Thanks for linking. I've owned two carbon forks ... which I just threw away
after I stopped trusting them and I didn't want to be responsible for the
safety of whomever I gifted them to. For me, it's the difficulty in
detecting issues and the catastrophic failure modes that did made me quit
Bicycle frames as consumables?.. That'll inject some revenue potential into
the industry!
- Max "hopefully not-too-disposable carbon-based mechanism" in A2
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 3:24:48 PM UTC-4, Leslie wrote:
>
> Given our perspectives on steel, carbon fiber, and bicycles, I
In one of Mel Alwood (sp.?)'s maintenance books she advocates annual
replacement for hbars...
EricF
Ottawa
On Wed, Jul 25, 2018, 16:13 Lum Gim Fong wrote:
> I stopped using carbon bikes after my first one. I am 155lbs. and seatpost
> cracked lengthwise after only owning it for several months,
I stopped using carbon bikes after my first one. I am 155lbs. and seatpost
cracked lengthwise after only owning it for several months, then also
cracked the second warranty replacement the same way, even when using
correct torque wrench on it. I got an aluminum post for the third try.
I got
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