Over the past 5+ years, I've done the majority of my riding--and
walking--in soft-soled Steger Mukluks.
http://www.mukluks.com/
I wear Apache Moccasins (at the bottom of the home page) spring,
summer, and fall and then switch to Traditional Mukluks in the late
fall, winter, and early spring.
I wish I could find a great non-cleated cycling shoe - something with a very
thin but stiff sole, for my MKS touring pedals, and have wondered about the
new Merrills. This review shows just how flexible they are, do those really
work well for cycling?
Andrew,
I use indoor soccer shoes, typically adidas (I don't care for the samba
model as the sole feels to clunky) but I also like diadora, and I use MKS
touring pedals. The soles feel just stiff enough without being so stiff
that completely lose feel of the pedal.
Larry, McDougall is correct
I'll second the indoor soccer shoe idea -- mine were Nikes, IIRC with
small cleats that weren't too annoying and worked well before I went
back to clipless. Others have had cobblers add thin vibram to old,
Detto-type cycling shoes: I have a pair of Vittoria (I think) winter
shoes with a thin
...@gmail.com wrote:
From: Andrew Johnson ashtab...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Q-Factor and 52 Year Old Knees
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Date: Wednesday, October 19, 2011, 11:21 PM
I wish I could find a great non-cleated cycling shoe - something with a very
thin but stiff sole, for my MKS
I've always hated running- much prefer biking and swimming. I have
lower back issues and patella femoral syndrome. But once I started
using the VFFs all those issues go away. If you're a runner you need
to relearn how to run lest you injure yourself. For me it's been
great- up to 2 miles now- and
I ride with the same shoes I walk around in..you just need to buy
a pedal with more surface area like a good BMX pin pedal or the Grip
Kings or something that doesn't dig into the sole of your shoe so
much. I use New Balance walking/hiking/sport shoesnot sure what
they are but they are
I have a medial meniscus tear that flares up if I ski too much, or cycle
with cranks that are too wide. I'm a doc, and my orthopedic surgeon buddy
was no help, but for me, and narrow tread or low Q (different terms for the
same thing) helps eliminate the grating and pain in my right knee. I
I have found that if my seat post gets set a little low, 1-2 cm, it causes
knee pain. You may want to check the saddle ht on Friday, vs Riv.
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Dr. Rivers,
I also get knee pain if I ride with the saddle just a little too low. What
I do is raise it by small increments until its good for a few miles - well,
maybe more than a few! But I also move it down if I'm starting to get too
much pelvic motion. The net result is that it only takes
My brother, a runner, used the barefoot shoes and managed to hurt
his feet with them -- just a warning that they are not infallible.
Me, I stopped hurting when I stopped running and my 56 year old
muscular-skeletal system is, thank God, in pretty good shape --
cycling keeps it free from aches,
I'm at 56, and after arthroscopic surgery on the same sort of tears in both
knees, I've had years of relief and activity, but arthritis has arrived.
Cycling is still wonderful and keeps the joints all polished up and less
wonky, but running and skiing are probably a bad idea.
Grip Kings replaced
Thanks so much for the Q-factor measuring protocol, Patrick.
You commented: All that said, if your two bikes haven't caused knee
problems in the past, I would assume that the Q of those bikes is not
the cause of your recent stiffness... My concern is not about the 2
Riv's but rather the Bike
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