*shouldn't have ...
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 12:04:33 PM UTC-4, Tex69 wrote:
My LBS is having a problem dealing with a nasty creak in the BB area of my
(silver) QB. They don't seem to know what BB would be best, whether to use
ISO or JIS, or whether the crank (standard Sugino crank
The QB is shipped with a JIS crank/bb, 103mm spindle. It's really unlikely
that RBW mis-installed the crank. How long has it been creaking? Did the
bike shop install a new bb not knowing what kind to use?
Faced with creaking, I would remove the crank and bb and re-install. Clean
the threads,
What brand is the BB? Does the creak happen when both pedals are on the
down stroke? Have they ruled out a pedal? I'm sure they removed the BB and
regreased the threads before reinstalling. Is there play when the crank arm
is pulled side to side? A light coating of oil on the spindle before
Same shop some years ago said that original BB installed without grease. I
had taken it in for creaking at the time. Pretty sure they replaced
original with new one which was ISO as I understand. Oops.
Now say that with new JIS still creaks.
Will look at other suggestions (and maybe look for
also check chain ring bolt for tightness.
does the creak happen in and out of the saddle? (eliminates seatpost as
source). i'd agree with jim that in most cases the bb and crank are not
the real source of the creaking. and also be ok with the possibility that
you may never fix it, my
I like the White Industry idea.
As to creaking, it's mostly out of the saddle with gusto, so no weight on
the seat of any kind.
Some further research says that they mounted an ISO BB a while ago instead
of the JIS. Could the wrong BB have bored out the crankarm?
--
You received this message
Worse when putting a lot of torque on the pedals puts the entire front
drivetrain in play as possible cause. Definitely swap pedals with a set you
know doesn't creek and see if that helps. That turned out to be the source
of my creaking pedals on my QB.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Thursday,
Yes, what Deacon said. It's frustrating, but changing one thing at a time
is probably the way to do things. The rear wheel is definitely in play,
even if you are certain the sound is coming from between your feet.
On Thursday, September 11, 2014 11:57:59 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
That's pretty weird all the way around.
When I ran non-ferrous frames, one of which had a consistent BB creak
issue, we found that using Anti-Seize worked best. Alternatively, plumbers
teflon tape can work. I used steel bolts which also helped.
I just replaced the BB on my QB with an IRD.
I recently had a creak from the BB area of my self-built Quickbeam. I
checked the crank arm bolts, then the chainring bolts. Finally I tigthened
the pedals and heard the familiar creak. My beautiful one-owner 1986 Dura
Ace right crankarm was cracked at the pedal threads... sniff.
--
You
Thanks to all. Some good food for thought. Cranks spin nicely and don't make
much noise in the saddle, so I guess I'll take my time.
One person here said QBs originally came with 103s. Mark from RBW thought 113s.
Thoughts?
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the
103mm is what I used it gave a perfect chainline.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to
Think mine came with a 107 cartridge in it. Changed it out for a PW so I could
fine tune the chain line. That was the shortest one RBW stocks, 108? Works very
well with old suntour superb track crank.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners
13 matches
Mail list logo
