Terrific news, Sean. I'm really glad that worked for you. Good job!
On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 1:21:16 PM UTC-7, SeanMac wrote:
Good news - my wedge is no longer stuck!
At the suggestion of Bill (and implied by several others), I cut a board
that would fit over the head tube. I
Good news - my wedge is no longer stuck!
At the suggestion of Bill (and implied by several others), I cut a board
that would fit over the head tube. I drilled a hole in the board that was
large enough for the stem bolt. Then I simply screwed the bolt into the
wedge and kept screwing until
Great news. Nice to have that out of the way.
I’d suggest the 25.4 stem which will take a wide variety of bars and leave
you the option of switching in the noodle anytime.
David
On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 4:54:08 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Terrific news, Sean. I'm really glad that
Like those pesky stuck seat posts, use ammonia in the head tube to loosen
the corrosion. Let is soak for the night and then use your bag of tricks to
get it out. If all else fails, I like the drill suggestion the best.
Good luck and though it seems frustrating now on this little project, it
Sean
If you don't want to take apart a bunch of stuff going through the
underside of the crown, then you should fashion your own wedge puller.
1. Thread your stem bolt two or three rotations into your stuck wedge.
2. Measure the distance from the top of the headset lock nut to the bottom
actually wasn't to you Bill, was just considering dropping the fork as a
way to make handling the stuck wedge problem easier. Carrying around a
fork with a stuck wedge is a whole lot easier than carrying around a bike
with a stuck wedge
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 2:27:51 PM UTC-5, Bill
drop the fork?
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 11:42:06 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Sean
If you don't want to take apart a bunch of stuff going through the
underside of the crown, then you should fashion your own wedge puller.
1. Thread your stem bolt two or three rotations into your
OK, so your question:
drop the fork?
translates to:
Sean, before going and hiring a shop or other professional to remove your
wedge for you, let me suggest you might want to remove the fork from the
bicycle, because a fork by itself is more portable than a complete bicycle.
It will save you
Ron
I don't know what you mean by your question. Maybe you are asking:
Hey Bill, is it necessary to remove the fork from your bicycle before
executing those recommended steps?
If that's your question, then then answer is: No, it is not necessary to
remove the fork before executing those
I've had my share of 10 minute bike projects turn into 3 hour late into the
night projects. Good thing I'm not on the clock and that I'm doing it for
fun.
JohnS
On Monday, March 30, 2015 at 3:47:04 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
OK, so your question:
drop the fork?
translates to:
Sean,
If nothing else works, check if the wedge is made of an aluminum alloy. If
it is, you can dilute it with caustic soda. Only use this method as a last
resort since it has several major drawbacks. First of all, caustic soda is
dangerous (always work with latex gloves and protective goggles).
Gotta agree with this. As I wrote earlier drilling it out is a when all
else fails last resort. Kai's suggestion to essentially jury rig a proper
puller is definitely worth a try.
On Sunday, March 29, 2015 at 8:46:21 PM UTC-7, Kainalu wrote:
Consensus is definitely important, from the bottom
Consensus is definitely important, from the bottom is a for sure thing.
However, even if you lack appropriate big sized fender washers there's no end
to things you could use between your headset and that stem bolt to apply
pressure upwards and possibly free that thing without removing all that
Hopefully it's caused by corrosion and the liquid wrench will break it
loose. Another common problem is over tightening the stem bolt causing the
steerer tube to bulge.Do you have access to the expander from the bottom of
the fork?Can you remove the fork??
I use water proof marine grease on my
Thanks for your suggestions on how to attack my stuck stem wedge. The
consensus certainly seems to be that I need to attack it from the bottom of
the head tube. That suggestion makes a lot of sense to me. Unfortunately,
it also means that I need to remove the front fender and [most likely]
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