I realized afterwards that the cable was not loose. The positioning was fine
but the derailluer would come out too far allowing the chain to jump off the
large ring. It was 100% the h screw not being set correctly. It was way off and
I don't see a way that shipping could have changed that. It
Hmmm, there are several conflicting and confusing issues here
In your initial posting, you said you rode the bike for two days without
any shifting issues. Then, you later say you had chain suck in the
first 2-5 miles of riding the bike.
Also, I'm sceptical that the high limit screw, which
Yes I was exaggerating the miles. The first day I didn't do too many miles but
the second day I did a few. I would say that the realistic mileage was closer
to 20-30 before major chain suck. On the second day I would guess I did little
shifting on the front. My point remains that its a ton of
The bolt holding the derailer clamp on the downtube might have
loosened as well, causing the derailer to spin on the tube. They spin
down and clockwise. Just something else to check...
On 8/11/13, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
Another thing that could have happened is that when the bike was
Another thing that could have happened is that when the bike was shipped,
the FD cable/housing popped out of sitting flush in the frame, so the
housing ferrule is sitting on the frame in a way that is different from how
it should be. This has happened to me when unboxing a bike. Just a
I was able to adjust the FD and now it shifts perfectly. For the record
there were two issues at play here.
1. The FD was not adjust correctly. It wasn't even close...I have no idea
why it was this far out of whack.
2. The shifters needed to be tightened.
The second issue is apparently
You will find they need to be tightened on occasion. If you need to adjust the
derailer, watch the Riv video on YouTube. It can be a challenge at first, but
once you get the hang of it, it's great to know you can do it yourself.
Congrats on the new ride.
--
You received this message
Could the shifter be loose? Something similar happened to me the other day.
The left/front barend shifter had gotten loose. A few turns with a (knife
serving as a) screwdriver was all it took. Anything more complicated than
that is sadly beyond my expertise. I fit into the willing but barely
Johnny
The IRD thumbshifters have the internals of the Silver downtube shifters.
The D-ring on top can be tightened with your fingers to add friction to the
assembly. That friction is necessary to hold your chain in gear. Each
derailer has a return spring that wants to move the chain to a
Thanks guys. I did know they were called chainrings but then just got my
brain off track by thinking of what the rear ones were called which I
assumed was cogs but I wasn't sure. I tightened both of the D rings and
that might be enough to fix the rear derailer but when I checked the cables
as
I forgot to mention that I can't really test it at the moment as it is
storming like crazy.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
OK, I stand corrected. Loose cable aside tightening the D rings seem to
have corrected the issue on both derailers. The front one can be
overshifted in a way. If you take it too far it will move out far enough
to rub the chain and chain guard. Easy enough to take care of as all you
need to
On 07/27/2013 07:05 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:
OK, I stand corrected. Loose cable aside tightening the D rings seem
to have corrected the issue on both derailers. The front one can be
overshifted in a way. If you take it too far it will move out far
enough to rub the chain and chain guard.
13 matches
Mail list logo
