[RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Collin A]

It doesn't answer your question, but I recommend taking a look at the klite 
1300 lumen light. Its a symmetrical light that (at least in the US) I've 
found to be more useful than an asymmetrical light for all-round riding. 
It's also bright as the dickens, but adds a noticeable amount of drag on 
the dynamo hub.

I've found it more useful than the schmidt due to the asymmetry of the 
light beam.

On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 5:52:57 PM UTC-7, Chris Corral wrote:
>
> Winter approaches, and as summer wastes away so do our hours of sunlight!
>
> I am looking to outfit my new bike with a tour-worthy lamp and am 
> wondering if anyone has direct experience or opinions between the B IQ-x, 
> Schmidt Edlux II, and the new Sinewave Beacon (Bacon?). I have personally 
> owned the IQ-X and taken it on tours across Colorado, New Mexico, old 
> Mexico, and Western Europe. Through rain, wind, dust and shine it performed 
> flawlessly and I would buy it again. But I am interested in the USB 
> charging capabilities and potential performance benefits of the Beacon or 
> Schmidt. I also know those two have better standlights, with the Sinewave 
> able to run on a battery cache. My riding is a healthy mix of on/off road, 
> with tours gravitating towards off-road. I will also use this light on my 
> tandem.
>
> I guess I have two questions. 
> 1) Are the Schmidt and Sinewave worth the price premium over the IQ-X? 
> 2) How is the new Sinewave Beacon anyway?
>
>

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[RBW] Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Lum Gim Fong]

All I can say is my hanging edeluxe ii dont look anywhere near as bright as the 
vendors’ online pics show. Works great though and bright enough. Just not as 
bright and uniform as pics show.
IQX is on my radar for next light.

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[RBW] "Pedal Bikes / Shoot Film" Poster Contest

[John A. Bennett]

Rivelo -- AKA Portland's independent Rivendell dealer -- is teaming up with 
Stumptown Printers to create a limited edition poster, and we're having a 
contest to choose the (black & white film) photo that will be used to make 
it. 

You don't need to live in Portland, and you don't have to attend the launch 
party to collect the prize(s).

I will let the link do the rest of the talking. If you have any questions, 
though, lemme know. 

https://www.stumptownprinters.com/news/2018/8/16/pedal-bikes-shoot-film-photo-contest

Thanks!

John 

https://www.instagram.com/rivelo_pdx/

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Mark Schneider]

 Some bike shops can do a decent fit, but a good Physical Therapist that 
specializes in bike fitting can be invaluable. In my case I had a number of 
age related neck, back and knee issues and my regular therapist recommended 
I get a proper fit.It will cost some bills 200 in my case but you already 
bought the custom, might as well get a proper fit. But, don't be surprised 
if they tell you to change the stem...

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Mark Schneider]

I had a similar issue with my Homer. To get more clearance for fenders with 
wider tires I found a very clean set of Mafac Raids, and put them  on my 
Homer, they work very well. Compass make centerpulls that are very similar 
to the Raids but $$$. Paul Components Racer's  are also very nice with 
reach between 559's and the Raids. So yes I would consider centerpulls. I 
got my Raids for around 60$ on EBay, but it took a while. 

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:33:52 PM UTC-7, Mike K. wrote:
>
> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm 
> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's 
> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger 
> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the 
> current setup won't allow it.
>
> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37 
> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts, 
> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even 
> switch to 650b.
>
> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different frame 
> and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on what 
> I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go bigger 
> than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and just 
> need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>
> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>

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[RBW] Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Chris Corral]

Winter approaches, and as summer wastes away so do our hours of sunlight!

I am looking to outfit my new bike with a tour-worthy lamp and am wondering 
if anyone has direct experience or opinions between the B IQ-x, Schmidt 
Edlux II, and the new Sinewave Beacon (Bacon?). I have personally owned the 
IQ-X and taken it on tours across Colorado, New Mexico, old Mexico, and 
Western Europe. Through rain, wind, dust and shine it performed flawlessly 
and I would buy it again. But I am interested in the USB charging 
capabilities and potential performance benefits of the Beacon or Schmidt. I 
also know those two have better standlights, with the Sinewave able to run 
on a battery cache. My riding is a healthy mix of on/off road, with tours 
gravitating towards off-road. I will also use this light on my tandem.

I guess I have two questions. 
1) Are the Schmidt and Sinewave worth the price premium over the IQ-X? 
2) How is the new Sinewave Beacon anyway?

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[RBW] Re: QB Seatpost Diameter

[Philip Williamson]

My green QB seatpost is 27.2.

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 10:05:55 AM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> My erstwhile Orange QB was definitely 27.2mm.  
>
> On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 3:39:10 PM UTC-7, Dave Grossman wrote:
>>
>> Used calipers and got around a 26.8just want to confirm before 
>> purchasing.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: I'd like some 'splaining: Clem H vs. new Riv MTB

[Jeremy Till]

Speculating about the new Riv MTB, my favorite pastime! I think I will end 
up buying one; here are my (wild speculations) regarding points #2 and #3, 

It seems that the new MTB will have been designed from the beginning mainly 
for trails, whereas the Clem was more designed as an all-rounder that was 
beefy enough in the frame tubing and tire clearance to handle off-roading.  
Thus, I would speculate that if you ride your Clem as an all-rounder, 
utility bike, "country bike" etc. and are happy with it, ride on!  Whereas, 
if you're like me and mainly use your Clem for riding rough trails (I've 
got a Surly LHT that fills the all-rounder/"country bike" niche for me), 
and could imagine that a couple of the talked-about changes (more tire 
clearance and threadless headset stand out to me) being a benefit for that 
type of riding, the new MTB is an attractive option.  

In terms of fanciness, that remains to be seen, probably until the 
prototypes come out.  About the only construction detail on the frame that 
we know is that it will have the same type of fork as the HHH tandem, which 
I like but wouldn't necessarily say is "fancier" than the other Rivendell 
forks.  In terms of the frame, the question is, how many lugs? If there are 
non-lugged joints, will they be TIGged or fillet brazed?

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:09:44 PM UTC-7, LeRoy wrote:
>
> Here are two snippets from Rivendell; the first from the "Big Ol' 
> Seasonal Blowout Sale" email, the second from the Clem Smith Jr. page:
>
> *"...a new mountain bike planned for next year. Still about six months off 
> for both of those. The new bike will kind of replace the Clem H, which is 
> still the best bang for your buck in our lineup, but the frames and 
> completes we get in next week will be the last ever unfortunately. The new 
> mountain bike will be fancier fwiw."*
>
> (wrt Clem Smith Jr.) *"I/Grant think of it as a mountain bike–and the 
> frame does pass the mountain bike EN test, the toughest in the world, so 
> it’s not going to break on you."*
>
> I'm the quite happy owner of a 59cm Clem H. It suits me and my needs very 
> well. I don't know if I need a new bike. But who doesn't need the Nth 
> bike? So, I've dug around for new MTB information among the Riv posts, 
> Blugs and Blaghs yet I'm not able to answer several general questions. 
> Further, I realize that too little is known about the coming soon-ish 
> Rivendell MTB to make many definitive statements. And finally, I realize 
> that my own lack of a detailed understanding of general bike geometry 
> limits my ability to make sense of what seems to be known about the new MTB 
> as it relates to my Clem H or other bikes.
>
> So, my question(s) is/are:
>
>1.   What is it, in general, that would make the new MTB supplant the 
>need for Rivendell to continue making the Clem H?
>2.   As a happy Clem owner, what might there be about the MTB that 
>would make a difference, and in what kind of riding might the 
> difference(s) 
>be most apparent?
>3.   As a more trivial aside, what is expected to be "fancier" about 
>the MTB?
>
> Thanks for any assistance and, if my questions are too rudimentary -- or 
> too premature -- for forum discussion, don't hesitate to tell me to keep my 
> powder dry and patiently wait for the formal MTB release and more details.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Joe Bernard]

The screen name is yours and I love the peanut butter jar. That's so cute! 珞

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[RBW] WTT: my 46cm Noodle for your Albastache

[Eric Daume]

I have a 46cm Noodle, but I'd rather have an Albastache. I could possibly
include the non-aero brake levers and 100mm Technomic if that seals the
deal.

Thanks,

Eric
Plain City, OH

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Joe Bernard]

Correctamundo, Leah Belle Shamalama Ding Dong, it's about the little racks. 
Your Big Rack could safely carry another bike 

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[RBW] Re: FS: 53 Bleriot

[Lum Gim Fong]

SOLD locally.
Got to keep the fenders/decaleur/rack so onto the Rambouillet they go.

 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Vincent Tamer]

I went to Nitto's Website and found some info on two of their racks:

http://nitto-tokyo.sakura.ne.jp/carrier-E.html

We can see the rack that has caused the uproar, the M12, with the warning. 
The M18 doesn't have this warning. 

I own the M18, it doesn't seem to different than the ones Riv sells. The 
M12 is in a class of it's own since it connects to the Vbrake Bosses, so 
this can definitely be problematic.

I think a safety strap is a good idea for any one of the Nitto Small 
Platform racks, just in case. I am now definitely going to be minding my 
front load and using my Med. Saddle Sack as my go to portage from now on.

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 4:16:51 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Leah,
The Blahg post does not pertain to your Nitto Big Front Rack. Nitto Big 
Front Rack (among others) connects to the drop out and can handle much 
larger loads than the Nitto Mini, Marks, and other "rando-type" front racks.

Tailwinds,
Shoji
Arlington MA



On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 1:43:43 PM UTC-4, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Just to clarify: this Blahg post is only pertaining to the small Nitto 
> racks Rivendell sells, correct? I ask because I have the Nitto Big Front 
> Rack with the large Wald attached and I think if I was asked to remove it 
> my dog would be in hysterics... I've ridden my Betty Foy and he's ridden 
> his Wald since 2012, and we don't intend to stop now!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[Patrick Shea]

I used to take the train to South San Francisco for a horrible job loading
trucks for UPS. Some trains, usually the ones at night (11pm-ish) had steep
steps with the bottom step being about two feet off the ground. I had to
lift my fendered, large Wald-basketed, Schwalbe-tired, and Surly-racked
Fargo up these killers. The new trains have lower, and fewer steps which
was a big improvement but they rarely came at night. Oh yeah, this is Cal
Train in SF that I'm referring to.

Anyway, there were nights when I'd grab the rail to help myself up and the
bike was so heavy I'd find myself falling backwards. Getting off the train
was slightly easier but once I lifted the bike and stepped down, all bets
were off.

I solved my problem by switching to my Moots fixed gear. It has a Carridice
Camper on the back with a ti Bagman support. True, I carried a buch of
items in my large PAC messenger bag but the Carradice had cans of water for
the train, rain gear if needed, sweaty clothes from work, and an assortment
of lights.

Once I quit my job, the problem was instantly solved!

Once I removed the fenders, the basket, the Surly front rack, and the
weight dropped off like I was eating bacon and not jogging. But the Fargo
is still too heavy to lift up or carry down stairs.

Now, my commute is about two miles and I use my Moots. I took off the XTR
pedals and installed MKS metal ones so I can ride in my work boots. I'm
going to reinstall my Schmidt lighting so I can dump the Niterider and the
whole recharging issue. It's still got the Camper and a Brooks Swallow ti
saddle. I'm going back to a steel fork and Jintensha bars. It will still be
a pretty light, easily carried bike.

Way more info than anybody but me needs but I felt your pain!

Anyone need a medium Fun Guy 2008-10ish Salsa Frago f/f/silver CK hs, and
Deore triple crank/BB30?
$250 plus shipping? I'll put up a separate FS posting but I figured if you
made it this far...

Rock On,
Patrick "where did this flab come from" Shea



On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 8:47 AM John Phillips  wrote:

> Hi Kiley,
>
> Wally's idea of installing a ramp on the steps is a good one, unless
> your steps are too steep and your new bike too heavy to push up as you
> climb your steps.
>
> Even better, could you remodel your porch? Put in something like a wheel
> chair access ramp?
>
> We are 56 & 59, and live on the 3rd floor of our building. We carry our
> Betty Foy, Hunqapillar & A Homer Hilsen through narrow twisting hallways,
> up and down 2 flights of stairs at home, plus stairs at train and metro
> rail stations, and so we have a little experience with your problem with
> carrying bikes up down stairs, and here's what works for us:
>
> 1) Those leather strap handles really work. Your bikes center of gravity
> is nice & low and much more comfortable. I ordered ours from Walnut
> Studiolo:  Walnut Studiolo "Little Lifter"
>
> 
>
> 2) I took the racks off the bikes. Back racks make carrying a bike more
> difficult. Carrying a bike with the weight of a rack in the front is easier
> than carrying a bike with a rack in the back, but no racks at all makes
> carrying easier. I use a lightweight daypack or messenger bag, something
> left over from my commuting days. If your stuff if secure on your back,
> it's much easier to carry your bike.
>
> OR: I use a Pass & Stow porteur rack on the front, and use a lightweight
> porteur bag with a shoulder strap. Some people are making them out of X-PAC
> these days. I skip the basket. This is heavier than a small front rack &
> basket, but more secure, and the weight distribution is still good when it
> comes time to climb up or down the stairs. I carry the bag on my shoulder
> when I need to negotiate stairs.
>
> Best of luck,
> John
>
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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ginz]

I’d like to see a mini front rack that somehow does not interfere with the fork 
crown and my brake setup in any way, shape or form. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[R Shannon]

Thanks everyone for all the recommendations. 

Andy, yes, please do post a pic of the pump attachment on the dowel. That’s a 
slick idea!

Regards,
Rich in ATL

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 17, 2018, at 12:53 PM, Pondero  wrote:
> 
> Andy,
> 
> Thanks for the reminder about mounting on the dowel.  I've heard about this 
> approach before (maybe from you?), and have thought of doing this myself.  
> Would you mind, if it isn't too far off topic, posting a photo of how you 
> oriented the mounting?
> 
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
> 
> 
> 
>> On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 6:16:17 AM UTC-5, ascpgh wrote:
>> Topeak mini is the pump I have with me every day on my commute. I mounted 
>> the frame clip, intended for one of the water bottle bosses, on the dowel 
>> inside my Carradice Nelson Longflap. It stays up out of the way, out of 
>> sight, quiet and ready to grab even if the bag is full. No roadside 
>> disengorging necessary. 
>> 
>> That bike uses 700 x 40 tires. Flats are  not convenient, happen at odd 
>> times and places, all far from your trusty floor pump. I don't discredit the 
>> small size and reps needed to fill my tube/tire. I'm happy that it works 
>> wonderfully on those rare occasions when I've depended on it.
>> 
>>  I do have the full sized Topeak frame pump and it rattles a bit where the 
>> handle telescopes over the body when mounted. Stuff like that is irritating 
>> when you take so much care to keep your bicycle so quiet in operation. You 
>> know, that one tick or click that escaped your careful service and 
>> maintenance, letting your mind ruin a perfectly wonderful ride.
>> 
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>> 
>>> On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 6:24:33 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>>> This topic comes up periodically so forgive me for raising it yet again! I 
>>> need a good pump that will fit inside a Medium Sackville bag.
>>> Lezyne is one that comes to mind and I believe I've seen it recommended 
>>> here.
>>> 
>>> Thank you for your comments.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> Rich in ATL 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

Just to clarify: this Blahg post is only pertaining to the small Nitto racks 
Rivendell sells, correct? I ask because I have the Nitto Big Front Rack with 
the large Wald attached and I think if I was asked to remove it my dog would be 
in hysterics... I've ridden my Betty Foy and he's ridden his Wald since 2012, 
and we don't intend to stop now!

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[RBW] FS: SOMA Moustache, stem, for cheeseburger + shipping

[Joe Bernard]

SHORT dirtdrop. You'll need a Tallux unless your bike has a tall headtube. 

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[RBW] FS: SOMA Moustache, stem, for cheeseburger + shipping

[Joe Bernard]

I have the box my Bullmoose came in and it appears I'm never going to use this 
bar. SOMA Moustache 3-Speed Bar, comes attached to some old dirtdrop stem I 
bought a while back, 25.4 clamp, $5 cheeseburger money plus shipping, probably 
around 20 bucks. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wiqwzDNJ1hg4pkcB9

Thanks,
Joe Bernard
Novato CA. 

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[RBW] Re: QB Seatpost Diameter

[Jeremy Till]

My erstwhile Orange QB was definitely 27.2mm.  

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 3:39:10 PM UTC-7, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> Used calipers and got around a 26.8just want to confirm before 
> purchasing.
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[Pondero]

Andy,

Thanks for the reminder about mounting on the dowel.  I've heard about this 
approach before (maybe from you?), and have thought of doing this myself.  
Would you mind, if it isn't too far off topic, posting a photo of how you 
oriented the mounting?

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas



On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 6:16:17 AM UTC-5, ascpgh wrote:
>
> Topeak mini is the pump I have with me every day on my commute. I mounted 
> the frame clip, intended for one of the water bottle bosses, on the dowel 
> inside my Carradice Nelson Longflap. It stays up out of the way, out of 
> sight, quiet and ready to grab even if the bag is full. No roadside 
> disengorging necessary. 
>
> That bike uses 700 x 40 tires. Flats are  not convenient, happen at odd 
> times and places, all far from your trusty floor pump. I don't discredit 
> the small size and reps needed to fill my tube/tire. I'm happy that it 
> works wonderfully on those rare occasions when I've depended on it.
>
>  I do have the full sized Topeak frame pump and it rattles a bit where the 
> handle telescopes over the body when mounted. Stuff like that is irritating 
> when you take so much care to keep your bicycle so quiet in operation. You 
> know, that one tick or click that escaped your careful service and 
> maintenance, letting your mind ruin a perfectly wonderful ride.
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 6:24:33 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>>
>> This topic comes up periodically so forgive me for raising it yet again! 
>> I need a good pump that will fit inside a Medium Sackville bag.
>> Lezyne is one that comes to mind and I believe I've seen it recommended 
>> here.
>>
>> Thank you for your comments.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rich in ATL 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[John Phillips]

Hi Kiley,

Wally's idea of installing a ramp on the steps is a good one, unless 
your steps are too steep and your new bike too heavy to push up as you 
climb your steps.

Even better, could you remodel your porch? Put in something like a wheel 
chair access ramp?

We are 56 & 59, and live on the 3rd floor of our building. We carry our 
Betty Foy, Hunqapillar & A Homer Hilsen through narrow twisting hallways, 
up and down 2 flights of stairs at home, plus stairs at train and metro 
rail stations, and so we have a little experience with your problem with 
carrying bikes up down stairs, and here's what works for us:

1) Those leather strap handles really work. Your bikes center of gravity is 
nice & low and much more comfortable. I ordered ours from Walnut Studiolo:  
Walnut 
Studiolo "Little Lifter"


2) I took the racks off the bikes. Back racks make carrying a bike more 
difficult. Carrying a bike with the weight of a rack in the front is easier 
than carrying a bike with a rack in the back, but no racks at all makes 
carrying easier. I use a lightweight daypack or messenger bag, something 
left over from my commuting days. If your stuff if secure on your back, 
it's much easier to carry your bike.

OR: I use a Pass & Stow porteur rack on the front, and use a lightweight 
porteur bag with a shoulder strap. Some people are making them out of X-PAC 
these days. I skip the basket. This is heavier than a small front rack & 
basket, but more secure, and the weight distribution is still good when it 
comes time to climb up or down the stairs. I carry the bag on my shoulder 
when I need to negotiate stairs.

Best of luck,
John

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish in Long Beach?

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Drew, I've not been able to find SCAR, so cal all rounders, in any internet 
search. Do you have a link for them?

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[RBW] Re: I'd like some 'splaining: Clem H vs. new Riv MTB

[Ryan M.]

I just hope this new mtb is a trail bike first and foremost and not a 
touring bike with bigger tires. Not that using a touring bike on a trail is 
impossible or anything, just that a bike made for trails will have a 
different geometry, tubes, intended handlebar, bottom bracket height, ect. 
Actually, the bottom bracket height was a huge drawback to using a Sam on 
my local trails, which I tried but didn't like. I could 




>

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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[phil k]

IME changing tires has the best cost to benefit, in some cases it may not 
even cost more. I switched from Schwable to Compass tires (Compass tires 
were a bit cheaper actually), and lost almost 2 pounds.

Your other biggest value is figuring out how much you actually NEED to 
carry. I used to carry a few patches, a couple of tubes, large air pump, 
and multiple tools. I now only carry a spurcycle multitool (super light and 
very convenient!), a patch, and a spare tube if I'm going on longer rides. 
Probably saved me another pound or so.

My next biggest weight was bags and racks. A Marks front rack is about a 
pound or so. Then a basket is another pound. Then another canvas bag can be 
another pound or as well. I switched to rear bag that just straps onto my 
saddle loops. XPAC also makes the bag weigh much less. I also run a 
rackless front bag. This also saved me some weight as well.

I think the thing to keep in mind is how useful and convenient you want 
your bike to be. A basket with a front bag is super convenient. Running 
triple crankset is super convenient. Sometimes convenience has a weight 
penalty. I'm actually thinking of going back to the basket up front, just 
because it was so convenient. 

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:56:35 PM UTC-4, Kiley Demond wrote:
>
> Now that my Riv is Gabriel's Riv, and seeing it stripped down to its 
> original glory, I think about what wasn't perfect and what I would like to 
> do for my next bike, a time-honored technique for dealing with loss; in 
> this case, the loss of a bike. 
>
> I love steel frames. I can't imagine not having a steel bike, but since I 
> am 5'10" (the 91 PBH is the real issue), the frame is large, and even 
> though I am strong, I am still a 60-year old woman. My pimped Cheviot was* 
> heavy.* Getting it up the three steps to my front porch wasn't easy. 
> Given that, what could be done to make one of these bikes lighter? I took 
> Grant's "let's not quibble about weight" philosophy to heart, so when I 
> added some essential accessories, they were all shiny steel. Like stacking 
> tolerances, it all added up. I didn't know much about components when I 
> first got the bike, but I learned from understanding and replacing what I 
> didn't like (and I did end up with the Bosco aluminum bars because they 
> were the "right" size). I could *read* about it, but I really needed to *feel 
> *about it. (Speaking of which, I always thought that a Build-a-Bike 
> program would be a great idea. It is a cross between Build-a-Bear and Book 
> Club; you buy the frame and then learn how to build up a bike, and you can 
> swap out components until you find the ones that work for you. The first 
> class is the theoretical parts discussion over a beer or coffee depending 
> on the time of day, where you pick your frame, and subsequent meetings are 
> building and testing riding.)
>
> *Anyhow*, thoughts on reducing weight on a bike? I figure this needs to 
> be considered at the component level up (or is that down?), if the frame is 
> a given. 
>
> (My next bike will be another mixte or step-thru, which unless something 
> changes in the next two years, will be a Cheviot or L-Clem. I also want it 
> to be e-Bike "compatible". I cannot buy an off-the-rack eBike because no 
> one makes a mixte or step-thru large enough, and I still want the bike to 
> be a pleasure to ride!)
>
> Kiley
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

[ctifusion]

This is clearly an excuse to buy a winter bike. I have a Surly LHT that I 
love anyway, but I also don't mind riding it all winter. Having ridden 
bikes year round in Minnesota for 15 years I'd say that riding in dry, cold 
conditions with salt residue is not a big deal (Now in Indy the weather is 
easier but the lack of road maintenance ad plowing actually makes it harder 
to ride in the winter here).  It's the salty and wet conditions that really 
do a number on components. I also think that if you hose your bike down a 
couple times during the winter and lube everything every couple of rides, 
the chances of having any real rust issues on the frame are pretty small. 
The biggest problem I have is with rusty bolts and rust on the steel parts 
of moving components. It hurts my heart when I think of all the beautiful 
vintage components I destroyed back in the 90s...

Look for a late-80s/early-90s rigid MTB and convert it to a commuter. The 
classic Deore stuff is pretty indestructible. They are fun to build and fun 
to ride.

Brynnar
Indy


On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 3:40:41 PM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Probably better to just put them on for the salty season.
> I definitely don't want to ride another kind of bike since my commutes are 
> 22 miles round trip and I love my Rambouillet for that.
> I am careful about mounting fenders and my Sheldon Fender Nuts are still 
> on the bike so easy on/easy off. Nothing to complain about.
> Glad I kept my fenders/rack/decaleur/Berthoud bag!!!
> Lately been riding fenderless/rackless with banana sax.
> Just bought a Roadeo so will switch banana sax to that and fender up the 
> Rambouillet for the winter.
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[EasyRider]

Bill, you make a good point about Nitto's conservative weight ratings can make 
it seem like other manufacturers racks, of similar design, are stronger, when 
in reality they're designed for the same purpose and should probably be treated 
as equals from safety perspective. 

I use a different front rack on each of my bikes the nitto 32f mini, the 
rawland rando, the vo one that uses canti mounts, and one slightly larger one 
made by racktime, a sub-brand of Tubus. The racktime one is probably the 
beefiest but I treat it no differently than the others, and in probably most 
confident in the nitto.

These racks are meant to carry odds and ends, conveniently. The most I ask of 
any of mine is to carry a six pack of cans on the way home, not a stack of 
newspapers or a full camping load. Those are jobs for cetmas, and the sadly 
discontinued haulin' Colin porteur rack. 

Maybe this would be a good time to being back the hobo bag?

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[RBW] Re: Recommendation for small tire pump

[ascpgh]

Topeak mini is the pump I have with me every day on my commute. I mounted 
the frame clip, intended for one of the water bottle bosses, on the dowel 
inside my Carradice Nelson Longflap. It stays up out of the way, out of 
sight, quiet and ready to grab even if the bag is full. No roadside 
disengorging necessary. 

That bike uses 700 x 40 tires. Flats are  not convenient, happen at odd 
times and places, all far from your trusty floor pump. I don't discredit 
the small size and reps needed to fill my tube/tire. I'm happy that it 
works wonderfully on those rare occasions when I've depended on it.

 I do have the full sized Topeak frame pump and it rattles a bit where the 
handle telescopes over the body when mounted. Stuff like that is irritating 
when you take so much care to keep your bicycle so quiet in operation. You 
know, that one tick or click that escaped your careful service and 
maintenance, letting your mind ruin a perfectly wonderful ride.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 6:24:33 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>
> This topic comes up periodically so forgive me for raising it yet again! I 
> need a good pump that will fit inside a Medium Sackville bag.
> Lezyne is one that comes to mind and I believe I've seen it recommended 
> here.
>
> Thank you for your comments.
>
> Regards,
> Rich in ATL 
>

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[RBW] Re: Reflections On My Riv and A Weight Loss Program

[Wally Estrella]

Kiley,

For the steps I'd suggest installing a board to the outer edge of the steps 
to roll up or down. Keep it wide enough for getting the bike on, but narrow 
enough to not become a trip hazard.

CHEERS!
Wally

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 2:56:35 PM UTC-4, Kiley Demond wrote:
>
> Now that my Riv is Gabriel's Riv, and seeing it stripped down to its 
> original glory, I think about what wasn't perfect and what I would like to 
> do for my next bike, a time-honored technique for dealing with loss; in 
> this case, the loss of a bike. 
>
> I love steel frames. I can't imagine not having a steel bike, but since I 
> am 5'10" (the 91 PBH is the real issue), the frame is large, and even 
> though I am strong, I am still a 60-year old woman. My pimped Cheviot was* 
> heavy.* Getting it up the three steps to my front porch wasn't easy. 
> Given that, what could be done to make one of these bikes lighter? I took 
> Grant's "let's not quibble about weight" philosophy to heart, so when I 
> added some essential accessories, they were all shiny steel. Like stacking 
> tolerances, it all added up. I didn't know much about components when I 
> first got the bike, but I learned from understanding and replacing what I 
> didn't like (and I did end up with the Bosco aluminum bars because they 
> were the "right" size). I could *read* about it, but I really needed to *feel 
> *about it. (Speaking of which, I always thought that a Build-a-Bike 
> program would be a great idea. It is a cross between Build-a-Bear and Book 
> Club; you buy the frame and then learn how to build up a bike, and you can 
> swap out components until you find the ones that work for you. The first 
> class is the theoretical parts discussion over a beer or coffee depending 
> on the time of day, where you pick your frame, and subsequent meetings are 
> building and testing riding.)
>
> *Anyhow*, thoughts on reducing weight on a bike? I figure this needs to 
> be considered at the component level up (or is that down?), if the frame is 
> a given. 
>
> (My next bike will be another mixte or step-thru, which unless something 
> changes in the next two years, will be a Cheviot or L-Clem. I also want it 
> to be e-Bike "compatible". I cannot buy an off-the-rack eBike because no 
> one makes a mixte or step-thru large enough, and I still want the bike to 
> be a pleasure to ride!)
>
> Kiley
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Lester Lammers]

I have a SOMA demi Porteur with a medium Wald basket on an Atlantis. 
Supposedly has a 10kg capacity and comes with a Manny strap.


On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:05:00 PM UTC-4, Adam Leibow wrote:

> i wonder just how catastrophic or dangerous these rack failures are for 
> the rider. if you think about it, a rack falling into the spinning front 
> wheel would be shot forward with the rotation of the tire. i'm not saying 
> i'd want this to happen but i can't picture a strut breaking causing the 
> rack to fall and put so much downforce on the front wheel as to cause it to 
> stop and buck a rider OTB. also, if using a mark's rack with 4 struts, the 
> diving board, AND the manny strap, one or even two strut's worth of failure 
> might not even be that costly or catastrophic (if all you have to replace 
> are broken struts and, at worst, a tire). this being said i look forward to 
> their answer to this problem. the way i read the post, mostly it's the M12 
> that's the culprit. 
>
> this all being said, i've loaded up my mark's rack and 32F with dangerous 
> amounts of weight many times, and luckily i haven't had a problem. maybe 
> i'm a good candidate for a basket-specific rack. 
>
> adam
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 4:16:51 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
>> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
>> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
>> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
>> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
>> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
>> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
>> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
>> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>>
>> GRANTS BLAHG 
>> 
>>
>> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Recommendation for small tire pump

[Ron Mc]

Patrick nailed it - Road Drive for high pressure (both lengths work), Alloy 
Drive Medium for high volume.  

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 5:50:20 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> How wide a tire? For higher pressures, I heartily recommend the Lezyne 
> Road Drive. For fat ones, the Alloy Drive. I think both -- certainly the 
> Road Drive -- come in at least 2 lengths.
>
>
>

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