[RBW] Nice Wool Jersey ($50) offered by San Jose LBS

[Jeff]

In case anybody is interested in a wool jersey for $50:

http://www.bicycleexpress.net/store/clothing/wool-retro-jersey

They say that this is Australian Merino

Jeff

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Re: [RBW] Centering Hub Axles

[Kerry Kunsman]

Ray,

I'm assuming this is a quick release axle.  If so 
the axle is normally 11mm longer than the hub 
spacing.  So if you set the one side so that 
5.5mm of axle extends beyond the locknut your 
other side should come out just about the 
same.  As others have already said, it doesn't 
need to be exact, as long as the axle does not extend beyond the droupout.


Kerry Kunsman
San Diego, CA

At 09:24 AM 5/28/2010, Ray wrote:

Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.

It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
off… etc.

Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…

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[RBW] FS: Mini Pump, Brooks Tool, Bike Ribbon

[Johnny Alien]

I have the following items for sale.

Quicker Pro Pump - No package but brand new with the brackets still in
the bag. $26 shipped

http://www.velo-orange.com/quickerpropump.html

Brooks Tension Wrench - Never used but it's a wrench so I'm not sure
it matters if it was. $8 shipped

http://www.velo-orange.com/brsatesp.html

Ambrosio Bike Ribbon - Black bike ribbon new in a box.  Great padded
pleather stuff.  Reminds me of the 80's. $5 shipped

http://www.ital-tecno.com/ambrosio-big.jpg

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Re: [RBW] any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[Rene Sterental]

I have the Paul Neo-Retro on the front in my Bombadil with the Nitto
Mini. No issues except making sure the hanger at the end of the
vertical cable coming from the brake lever is above the plane of the
rack.

That meant getting some longer straddle cables that I had no problem
ordering from Speedgoat as the sable supplied by Paul was too short to
prevent the rattling against the rack.

I checked with Mark and he concurred. Additionally, the higher
straddle cable improves the mechanics for the Neo-Retro type brakes if
my interpretations of all I've read are right. :-)

This is mootless for V-brakes but applicable to Cantis.

René

On 5/28/10, William  wrote:
> Thomas
>
> I think the important thing here is the fact that Paul brakes all have
> identical pivots, and those Paul pivots are really tall.  They ride a
> good bit farther from the fork than the Tektros.  The top cap of the
> pivot is a good cm thick and rests on top of the post, not around it.
> So, on my Bombadil, which has Paul touring Cantilevers, the cable
> hanger is riding so far away from the fork crown, that the Nitto Mini
> rack hits the cable hanger.  I bought a stack of spacers to move the
> rack out away from the fork crown a bit.  I also bought lower profile
> cable hanger to make up a few more mm.  This weekend intend to attempt
> this workaround.  For your situation, you can't really do anything to
> change the position of where the noodle bracket is.  Will the rack hit
> it in that plane?  I think it might.  Will the leather flap of a
> trunksack or the leather buckle strap of a handlebar bag come into
> contact with your brake?  I'd say probably.  Your only recourse in
> that situation I think will be to stack up spacers like I'm going to
> be trying.  If you need a lot of spacers, then you might need to go
> all the way to a recessed allen nut to secure that rack bolt, but the
> Hillborne is drilled to take one.  Maybe a Sheldon Brown nut, so you
> still can rock your fenders.
>
> Bill
>
> On May 27, 9:36 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> wrote:
>> Specifically, I'm interested in whether this combination works with a
>> Sam Hillborne. That is, does the cable/noodle canoe interfere with the
>> part of the mini that protudes backward into the fork's brake mount
>> hole? I had problems like that on a bike I now own and ended up
>> finding a peculiarly-sized tektro brake that was short enough to go
>> under the rack's mounting brace (that was a Nitto M-12 mounted on a
>> Trek hybrid bike).
>>
>> I'm contemplating getting a pair of Motolites but don't want to go
>> through the hassle if it turns out they interfere with the rack. There
>> are other brakes that I'm sure I can be happy with.
>>
>> So... anyone have any experience with a Paul motolite / Nitto mini
>> combination?
>>
>> Yours,
>> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Centering Hub Axles

[Ray Shine]

Thank you all who responded to what seems like a dumb question to begin with!  
Dah!  Yes, I followed Tim's instructions and everything went together very 
nicely. Thanks, Tim. I also liked the idea about photo-documenting the parts 
sequence. I had not thought of that, either. 

Anyway, as someone once wrote, all's well that ends well…

Thanks again.

Ray 





From: Tim McNamara 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, May 28, 2010 10:01:59 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Centering Hub Axles


On May 28, 2010, at 11:24 AM, Ray wrote:

> Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
> carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
> removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
> one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
> Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
> grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
> see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.
> 
> It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
> ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
> this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
> greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
> loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
> recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
> can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
> all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
> kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
> axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
> great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
> wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
> off… etc.
> 
> Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…

Not really a big deal, fortunately.

Measure the length of the axle in mm.  Subtract the OLN for the frame (which is 
either 132.5 or 135 for the Atlantis, IIRC).  Divide the remainder by 2 and 
that's the distance from the end of the axle to the face of the lock nut.

Thread the cone onto the axle past that, slide on the washer, thread on the 
lock nut to the proper distance and back the cone up against it.  Snug down.  
You should be good to reassemble.  Being off a mm or so is no big deal, there's 
a little extra space in the system to allow for this.

Cheers!

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[RBW] Fw: ReUpdate: Cleaning the shelf

[Bruce]

All items have been claimed. Thanks


  

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[RBW] ReUpdate: Cleaning the shelf

[Bruce]

The Shimano M324 and Look 247 pedals have been claimed.


  

Subject: [mbcmembers] Cleaning the shelf
  

1.) Lake Cycling Sandals Model LXSDL US size 9-10, Euro size 43-44. Black.
Shimano sole, SPD compatible. Excellent condition. Nicely padded at ankle and
foot straps. Stiff sole with raised toe gripper area and front toe protector
lip. Around $110 new, How about $30 including priority mail?

2.) Exustar Road shoes. Model SR-201. Good condition. Carbon sole, yellow with
black trim. US size 8.5, Euro size 42. Comes with Look (old style) cleats 
Similar to current model SR-208. Over $100 new,  how about $25 shipped?
Not a good match for a Glorius, but maybe a Roadeo?

3.) Wellgo RC-9701 pedals.  SPD race style, these were a clone of
Dura-Ace. Cro Moly spindles. Smooth and bulletproof. Heavier than D-A. some
scratches from clip/unclip, but otherwise excellent. shiny. $25 shipped.

4.)Look 247 pedals. This pedal got better reviews than some of the pricier Look
pedals. Black. SOLD

5.) Shimano M324 pedals. Street shoes on side A or SPD on side B. Or vice
versa. Good condition. SOLD


Thanks

Bruce


  

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Neo Retros; Road Thumbies

[Dave Craig]

Thumbies and 1 set of Neo Retros - SOLD

One pair of Neo Retros remaining.

Dave

On May 28, 10:59 am, Dave Craig  wrote:
> I thought I'd post these here before opening them up to the masses:
>
> Paul Road Thumbies (pair)http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html-
> Black Anodized 26.0mm clamp for Shimano shifters - lightly used -
> Note: Just like Riv sells them - this is just the thumbies, you'll
> need to supply the shifters. $40.00 or trade for same condition Mt.
> Thumbies
>
> Paul Neo Retro Brakes -http://www.paulcomp.com/neoretro.html- Silver
> Anodized - no straddle wires or pads, otherwise complete - I installed
> these, used them for a hundred miles or so, and took them off. $50.00
> per wheel
>
> Please contact me off list.
>
> Dave

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Rapha Waxed Cotton Cap - "Gentleman's Cap"

[Bruce]

I believe in fact that a number of interested parties were lined up wanting the 
waxed hat offered. How does that old joke go about recognizing each other in 
church but not the liquor store?:)





From: Lynne Fitz 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Fri, May 28, 2010 7:28:08 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: FS: Rapha Waxed Cotton Cap - "Gentleman's Cap"

You and me both.

On May 27, 6:47 am, Ginz  wrote:
> I'm still kicking myself for not buying one of those Rivendell derby
> sweater-vests when I had the chance. Probably would have lasted a
> lifetime! Doh.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rapha Waxed Cotton Cap - "Gentleman's Cap"

[EricP]

Agreed. Although I was not cycling at the time.  And certainly had no
knowledge of Rivendell when these were available.

For more modern, am still mad didn't order a couple more seersucker
shirts.  Especially as the ones I have are now too large.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On May 28, 7:28�pm, Lynne Fitz  wrote:
> You and me both.
>
> On May 27, 6:47�am, Ginz  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm still kicking myself for not buying one of those Rivendell derby
> > sweater-vests when I had the chance. Probably would have lasted a
> > lifetime! Doh.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rapha Waxed Cotton Cap - "Gentleman's Cap"

[Lynne Fitz]

You and me both.

On May 27, 6:47 am, Ginz  wrote:
> I'm still kicking myself for not buying one of those Rivendell derby
> sweater-vests when I had the chance. Probably would have lasted a
> lifetime! Doh.

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[RBW] Suntour Bar End Shifters Randonneur / Touring Nice - eBay (item 140410738281 end time May-31-10 18:00:27 PDT)

[Eric Norris]

Thought someone on this list might be interested in this auction.  I am not the 
seller ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Suntour-Bar-End-Shifters-Randonneur-Touring-Nice-/140410738281?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b121d669#ht_500wt_920


--Eric

Sent from my iPad

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[RBW] Re: My 1st Rivendell Video

[S.Cutshall]

Pretty certain I nailed it this time [sorta]:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30264...@n00/4648164637/

...even dropped the "GP" bomb in there for awesome effect.

-Scott

On May 28, 2:03 pm, "S.Cutshall"  wrote:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/30264...@n00/4648524708/
>
> It's minimal [I am influenced strongly by European, particularly
> Swedish, film].
>
> -and one critic ;-) "Gino Ebert" has already pointed out my lack of
> enunciation skills, but I am holding resolute to knowing how to say
> the important stuff-
>
> -Scott

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[RBW] Cleaning the shelf

[Bruce]

a couple of items for sale that I don't use anymore and which may be useful to 
someone else. Email off list with questions, please.

1.) Lake Cycling Sandals Model LXSDL US size 9-10, Euro size 43-44. Black. 
Shimano sole, SPD compatible. Excellent condition. Nicely padded at ankle and 
foot straps. Stiff sole with raised toe gripper area and front toe protector 
lip. Around $110 new, How about $30 including priority mail?

2.) Exustar Road shoes. Model SR-201. Good condition. Carbon sole, yellow with 
black trim. US size 8.5, Euro size 42. Comes with Look (old style) cleats  
Similar to current model SR-208. Over $100 new,  how about $25 shipped? Not a 
good match for a Glorius, but maybe a Roadeo?

3.) Wellgo RC-9701 pedals.  SPD race style, these were a clone of Dura-Ace. Cro 
Moly spindles. Smooth and bulletproof. Heavier than D-A. some scratches from 
clip/unclip, but otherwise excellent. shiny. $25 shipped.

4.)Look 247 pedals. This pedal got better reviews than some of the pricier Look 
pedals. Black. $25 shipped

5.) Shimano M324 pedals. Street shoes on side A or SPD on side B. Or vice 
versa. Good condition. $25 shipped.


Thanks

Bruce



  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

[erik jensen]

Front: 36h phil touring hub laced to a mavic 719.
Rear: 32h xtr wheel laced to a mavic T519.

I'm not so happy about using an xtr hub, but I guess I can't think of a
reason not to since both of these wheels are just extras I've had kicking
around for awhile. This will be a mountain bike primarily, since I have my
atlantis for touring. I think the 60mm apples will be more than enough to
cushion any load from a saddlebaggen s24o.

erik

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Re: [RBW] FS: Paul Neo Retros; Road Thumbies

[erik jensen]

Hey Dave,

I'll buy your neoretros!

erik

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 10:59 AM, Dave Craig  wrote:

> I thought I'd post these here before opening them up to the masses:
>
> Paul Road Thumbies (pair) http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html -
> Black Anodized 26.0mm clamp for Shimano shifters - lightly used -
> Note: Just like Riv sells them - this is just the thumbies, you'll
> need to supply the shifters. $40.00 or trade for same condition Mt.
> Thumbies
>
> Paul Neo Retro Brakes - http://www.paulcomp.com/neoretro.html - Silver
> Anodized - no straddle wires or pads, otherwise complete - I installed
> these, used them for a hundred miles or so, and took them off. $50.00
> per wheel
>
> Please contact me off list.
>
> Dave
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>


-- 
oakland, ca
bikenoir.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Zefal 'Lock & Roll' Seatpost Clamp is Stuck

[JoelMatthews]

I whacked mine a good deal before cutting it off.  Maybe mine was
installed wrong?

On May 28, 3:20 pm, Jim Boggs  wrote:
> A few solid thumps with a wooden spade handle solved this with ease,
> thanks so much for the tip Adam. My lack of mechanical patience would
> have normally led me to go the hacksaw route, many thanks for this
> mutual-aid online community we've got!
>
> On May 28, 11:32 am, Adam  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Yes.  It's happened to me quite a few times.  Turn it over and give it
> > a few hardy taps on the rounded point where the magnetic bearing lie
> > inside.  It should then freely open.  This has worked for me almost
> > every time.  If that doesn't work I'd recommend using some pliers,
> > rather than a saw, to bend it open though it will then lose it's
> > security.
>
> > Let me know if that doesn't work.
>
> > Cheers,
> > Adam
>
> > On May 27, 4:12 pm, Jim Boggs  wrote:
>
> > > I'm having trouble with a Zefal 'Lock & Roll' seatpost clamp I bought
> > > a few months back. It's never given me problems before, but when I
> > > went to adjust the seat yesterday, I found that the clamp would not
> > > open when I flipped the bike upside down so the clamp would be in the
> > > release position. The clamp will wiggle a few millimeters, but it will
> > > not fully open. Has anyone got a trick that might work to open that
> > > bad boy?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] My 1st Rivendell Video

[S.Cutshall]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30264...@n00/4648524708/

It's minimal [I am influenced strongly by European, particularly
Swedish, film].

-and one critic ;-) "Gino Ebert" has already pointed out my lack of
enunciation skills, but I am holding resolute to knowing how to say
the important stuff-

-Scott

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[RBW] Re: Betty Foy Video!

[JoelMatthews]

Well, I don't know about using the iPod.  Otherwise, looks like fun.

On May 28, 2:12 pm, Gino Zahnd  wrote:
> I like this gal on an Atlantis, clipless pedals, cutoffs, collared shirt, no
> helmet, and an iPod.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhUDHiqkOcQ&feature=related
>
> Makes me want to hit the road!
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 4:51 PM, erik jensen  wrote:
> > cemetery chic
>
> > On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 4:42 PM, manueljohnacosta <
> > manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGtjIOH1TOY
>
> >> Once again Rivendell does an awesome job!  Also some new How-To-Videos
> >> including installing of bar-end shifters! The videos work! Now I have
> >> this sudden urge to head out to the shop tomorrow to buy a number of
> >> random things. Might go on a ride there then take a buddy of mine to
> >> ride three bears hill..
>
> >> -Manny
>
> >> --
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> >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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>
> > --
> > oakland, ca
> > bikenoir.blogspot.com
>
> >  --
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[RBW] Re: Zefal 'Lock & Roll' Seatpost Clamp is Stuck

[Jim Boggs]

A few solid thumps with a wooden spade handle solved this with ease,
thanks so much for the tip Adam. My lack of mechanical patience would
have normally led me to go the hacksaw route, many thanks for this
mutual-aid online community we've got!

On May 28, 11:32 am, Adam  wrote:
> Yes.  It's happened to me quite a few times.  Turn it over and give it
> a few hardy taps on the rounded point where the magnetic bearing lie
> inside.  It should then freely open.  This has worked for me almost
> every time.  If that doesn't work I'd recommend using some pliers,
> rather than a saw, to bend it open though it will then lose it's
> security.
>
> Let me know if that doesn't work.
>
> Cheers,
> Adam
>
> On May 27, 4:12 pm, Jim Boggs  wrote:
>
> > I'm having trouble with a Zefal 'Lock & Roll' seatpost clamp I bought
> > a few months back. It's never given me problems before, but when I
> > went to adjust the seat yesterday, I found that the clamp would not
> > open when I flipped the bike upside down so the clamp would be in the
> > release position. The clamp will wiggle a few millimeters, but it will
> > not fully open. Has anyone got a trick that might work to open that
> > bad boy?

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Complete Cockpit: Nitto B135 Randonneur 42cm Bars, Shimano Bar-End 9-sp Shifters, Tektro Brake Levers

[Curtis Schmitt]

I will definitely let you know as soon as I have time to put it
together, still in pieces right now. Was completely disassembled for
shipment and I still have to source some parts to replace the ones I'm
selling that don't fit me well. I'm considering non-drop handlebars,
which will be totally new to me. But anyway, I will gladly report on
it once I've had some experience with it. I can tell you this, I've
never felt a frame near as heavy as this one, it's a little silly,
actually. Same goes for the fork.

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 3:19 PM, scott  wrote:
> How do you like the Soma Saga? Sort of Riv related because of the AMOS
> coupling. Right? Love to hear your impressions of this bike.
>   S.
>
> On May 28, 12:10 pm, Curtis Schmitt  wrote:
>> SOLD. Thanks!
>>
>> On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 4:27 PM, Curtis Schmitt
>>
>>
>>
>>  wrote:
>> > handlebars: nitto b135 randonneur 42cm
>> > bar tape: soma thick & zesty
>> > brake levers: tektro r200a
>> > shifters: shimano bar-end 9 speed
>>
>> > all parts are very experienced, not new/mint looking, but functionally
>> > perfect. could really use new bar tape to class the joint up. 4 mo old
>> > pic here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalturista/3927690514/sizes/o/
>>
>> > only reason for sale is that these bars came on a soma saga that i
>> > just purchased and are simply too narrow for me, i use 44/45s. figured
>> > it was just easier to sell the whole kit.
>>
>> > asking $75obo shipped via paypal, please send questions direct to my
>> > email address
>>
>> > thanks,
>> > curtis
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Cockpit: Nitto B135 Randonneur 42cm Bars, Shimano Bar-End 9-sp Shifters, Tektro Brake Levers

[scott]

How do you like the Soma Saga? Sort of Riv related because of the AMOS
coupling. Right? Love to hear your impressions of this bike.
   S.

On May 28, 12:10 pm, Curtis Schmitt  wrote:
> SOLD. Thanks!
>
> On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 4:27 PM, Curtis Schmitt
>
>
>
>  wrote:
> > handlebars: nitto b135 randonneur 42cm
> > bar tape: soma thick & zesty
> > brake levers: tektro r200a
> > shifters: shimano bar-end 9 speed
>
> > all parts are very experienced, not new/mint looking, but functionally
> > perfect. could really use new bar tape to class the joint up. 4 mo old
> > pic here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalturista/3927690514/sizes/o/
>
> > only reason for sale is that these bars came on a soma saga that i
> > just purchased and are simply too narrow for me, i use 44/45s. figured
> > it was just easier to sell the whole kit.
>
> > asking $75obo shipped via paypal, please send questions direct to my
> > email address
>
> > thanks,
> > curtis

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[RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[William]

Thomas

I think the important thing here is the fact that Paul brakes all have
identical pivots, and those Paul pivots are really tall.  They ride a
good bit farther from the fork than the Tektros.  The top cap of the
pivot is a good cm thick and rests on top of the post, not around it.
So, on my Bombadil, which has Paul touring Cantilevers, the cable
hanger is riding so far away from the fork crown, that the Nitto Mini
rack hits the cable hanger.  I bought a stack of spacers to move the
rack out away from the fork crown a bit.  I also bought lower profile
cable hanger to make up a few more mm.  This weekend intend to attempt
this workaround.  For your situation, you can't really do anything to
change the position of where the noodle bracket is.  Will the rack hit
it in that plane?  I think it might.  Will the leather flap of a
trunksack or the leather buckle strap of a handlebar bag come into
contact with your brake?  I'd say probably.  Your only recourse in
that situation I think will be to stack up spacers like I'm going to
be trying.  If you need a lot of spacers, then you might need to go
all the way to a recessed allen nut to secure that rack bolt, but the
Hillborne is drilled to take one.  Maybe a Sheldon Brown nut, so you
still can rock your fenders.

Bill

On May 27, 9:36 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Specifically, I'm interested in whether this combination works with a
> Sam Hillborne. That is, does the cable/noodle canoe interfere with the
> part of the mini that protudes backward into the fork's brake mount
> hole? I had problems like that on a bike I now own and ended up
> finding a peculiarly-sized tektro brake that was short enough to go
> under the rack's mounting brace (that was a Nitto M-12 mounted on a
> Trek hybrid bike).
>
> I'm contemplating getting a pair of Motolites but don't want to go
> through the hassle if it turns out they interfere with the rack. There
> are other brakes that I'm sure I can be happy with.
>
> So... anyone have any experience with a Paul motolite / Nitto mini
> combination?
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean

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Re: [RBW] Betty Foy Video!

[Gino Zahnd]

I like this gal on an Atlantis, clipless pedals, cutoffs, collared shirt, no
helmet, and an iPod.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhUDHiqkOcQ&feature=related

Makes me want to hit the road!



On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 4:51 PM, erik jensen  wrote:

> cemetery chic
>
>
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 4:42 PM, manueljohnacosta <
> manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGtjIOH1TOY
>>
>>
>> Once again Rivendell does an awesome job!  Also some new How-To-Videos
>> including installing of bar-end shifters! The videos work! Now I have
>> this sudden urge to head out to the shop tomorrow to buy a number of
>> random things. Might go on a ride there then take a buddy of mine to
>> ride three bears hill..
>>
>> -Manny
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
>> .
>> For more options, visit this group at
>> http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> oakland, ca
> bikenoir.blogspot.com
>
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[RBW] FS: Paul Neo Retros; Road Thumbies

[Dave Craig]

I thought I'd post these here before opening them up to the masses:

Paul Road Thumbies (pair) http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html -
Black Anodized 26.0mm clamp for Shimano shifters - lightly used -
Note: Just like Riv sells them - this is just the thumbies, you'll
need to supply the shifters. $40.00 or trade for same condition Mt.
Thumbies

Paul Neo Retro Brakes - http://www.paulcomp.com/neoretro.html - Silver
Anodized - no straddle wires or pads, otherwise complete - I installed
these, used them for a hundred miles or so, and took them off. $50.00
per wheel

Please contact me off list.

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Roadeo

[Phil Bickford]

Anne asked:

>Wait just one gol durned minute! Why am I changing tires to save four
>or five grams? The tubes won't save any weight, 'cause they're the
>same tubes. Is the rolling resistance any different? Should I just put
>the Jack Browns back on?

I would.  After wearing out a pair of the highly touted GB Cypress in
700x30 I replaced them with partially used JB Greens.  I know the GBs
are suppose to be the be-all end-all for road fatties, but I had a
hard time perceiving the difference once I got the pressures right on
the JBs.   I run them at 50/60 psi till I hit the dirt on the way home
when I ease out 5 psi each.

On the other hand if you're going for a 'skinny' road tire may I
suggest the Vredestein Fortezza in 25mm?  Said to be the closest to a
sewup ride in a clincher (I wouldn't know about that)  they can be had
for $38ish on sale.  I ride them with lower pressures than suggested,
YMMV

Phil B
Sonoma County

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Roadeo

[stevep33]

Changing trail by 1.69mm has almost as much impact on handling as
changing the color of a bike. Piloting a bike with a fade is just
inconceivable!

Seriously, if you make the tire larger/taller, then the distance from
the contact patch of the tire to steering axis intersection with the
ground also increases...the triangle gets bigger, more trail.  See
http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html

Trail calculator.
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php



On May 27, 11:57 pm, Rene Sterental  wrote:
> Can you expand on your thoughts? Explain how a wider tire increases trail
> and what that does to the handling of the bike?
>
> René
>
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 12:35 PM, William  wrote:
> > If a Roly Poly is 27.79mm in diameter, and if a Jack Brown is 33.333mm
> > in diameter, that's a difference of 5.54mm or so.  With a head tube
> > angle of 73 degrees, that means you'll be reducing your trail by
> > 1.69mm
>
> > I think that should make the decision obvious.
>
>

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RE: [RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[Frederick, Steve]

I have a set of the latest generation Shimano LX V-brakes on my Kogswell P/R 
Kommuter and they work really well with the new Tektro V-brake dropbar levers.  
I had a set of Tektro V brakes and I couldn't get them to stay centered.  But 
the LX ones are very decent quality, center easily and stay that way,  and have 
a nice enough silver finish:
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40738...@n08/4414847894/sizes/l/in/set-72157621854804681/
 
 
Weren't awful money either as I recall...
 
Steve

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of PATRICK MOORE
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 9:54 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini 
front rack?


If I were setting up my Sam Hill by myself, I too would have chosen V brakes -- 
Tektros -- for the hassle free factor; in fact I had a set of Tektros with drop 
V levers put away for such a build. The only reason I like these cantis -- and 
the only reason they work so well -- is that the bike came built by 
brake-competent people at Rivendell. But man! they are powerful! I wish the BB7 
Road front disk on my 29er ss -- 180 mm rotor, organic pads, not bad -- was as 
powerful as this front Tektro canti.


On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 7:49 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean < 
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:


Yeah, when it comes to brakes I know more expensive isn't always worth
it. On my Trek hybrid (about which I have very little complaint,
really) I've been satisfied with that $10 Tektro linear pull purchased
specifically to address the interference issue. Tektro makes some low
cost high value stuff, I think.

I'm sure that I can resolve any interference issues by choosing canti
brakes. But every time I see them, all I see are setup variables and
pokey-outy issues. I know they aren't as complicated or use as they
make me feel they would be. But for now I have no reason to move from
linear pulls. Without evidence to the contrary, I'm basically
postulating the motolites are top-tier linear pulls. And of course
they look stunning.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523







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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Cockpit: Nitto B135 Randonneur 42cm Bars, Shimano Bar-End 9-sp Shifters, Tektro Brake Levers

[Curtis Schmitt]

SOLD. Thanks!

On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 4:27 PM, Curtis Schmitt
 wrote:
> handlebars: nitto b135 randonneur 42cm
> bar tape: soma thick & zesty
> brake levers: tektro r200a
> shifters: shimano bar-end 9 speed
>
> all parts are very experienced, not new/mint looking, but functionally
> perfect. could really use new bar tape to class the joint up. 4 mo old
> pic here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalturista/3927690514/sizes/o/
>
> only reason for sale is that these bars came on a soma saga that i
> just purchased and are simply too narrow for me, i use 44/45s. figured
> it was just easier to sell the whole kit.
>
> asking $75obo shipped via paypal, please send questions direct to my
> email address
>
> thanks,
> curtis
>

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[RBW] Re: Centering Hub Axles

[Tim McNamara]

On May 28, 2010, at 11:24 AM, Ray wrote:


Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.

It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
off… etc.

Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…


Not really a big deal, fortunately.

Measure the length of the axle in mm.  Subtract the OLN for the frame  
(which is either 132.5 or 135 for the Atlantis, IIRC).  Divide the  
remainder by 2 and that's the distance from the end of the axle to  
the face of the lock nut.


Thread the cone onto the axle past that, slide on the washer, thread  
on the lock nut to the proper distance and back the cone up against  
it.  Snug down.  You should be good to reassemble.  Being off a mm or  
so is no big deal, there's a little extra space in the system to  
allow for this.


Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Selling The Quickbeams

[JoelMatthews]

> Also, I've been asked to provide standover heights, so, for the 64cm,
> it's 88cm; for the 52cm, it's 76cm.

Why in the world wouldn't askers just go to the Riv site for details
on fitting?  Guess as the seller you have to entertain all questions.
As an observer I can say, 'odd'.

On May 28, 10:21 am, Rick  wrote:
> As promised, here's a couple of pictures of the 52cm QB:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58462...@n00/4647195269/
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/58462...@n00/4647195223/
>
> Also, I've been asked to provide standover heights, so, for the 64cm,
> it's 88cm; for the 52cm, it's 76cm.
>
> Rick
>
> On May 27, 9:34 am, Rick  wrote:
>
>
>
> > We've had them for about a year, and now we're ready to try another
> > approach to urban cycling; hers is a 52cm frame with Nitto racks front
> > and rear, albatross handlebars with cork grips and Tektro Reverse
> > levers, a Green Brooks B17, and a large green tweed Baggins. I'll take
> > her bike out today, take a few pictures, and post them later tonight.
>
> > His is the 64cm frame, decked out with, well, check it 
> > out:http://www.ecovelo.info/2009/12/03/a-sweet-city-bike/
> > Mostly, I've built it with Albatross Bars,, Wood grips, B67 saddle,
> > B&M lighting with a bottle generator, ABUS "Cafe" lock with chain,
> > Berthoud fenders, and a Pletscher double stand.
>
> > We're flexible on pricing, but we're not in a hurry, either; the bikes
> > are in Sacramento, and the negotiated price will not include shipping.
> > No, I will not be parting the bikes out--it's a "take it or leave it"
> > kind of thing--and if anyone wants to buy both of them, I'll be happy
> > to discuss an additional discount. As for pricing, I'll start with the
> > "make me an offer" approach, and let's see where that goes; I've got
> > $2600 invested in the 64cm, and $2100 in the 52cm, so I'll obviously
> > be trying to minimize my losses. I'll keep this posted here for a
> > week, and if nothing happens, the next stop will be EBay...and I hate
> > going there! :-)
>
> > Thanks,
> > Rick- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Centering Hub Axles

[scott]

That's the same caliper I picked up at a Rural King years ago. It is
rusty and dirty and speckled with shellac, but I have built wheels and
measured a million things with it just fine. I have pals with dial and
digital calipers, but this one works just fine if you aren't a
perfectionist and need the decimals. I don't.

On May 28, 11:43 am, Horace  wrote:
> It doesn't matter if the hub is centered on the axle exactly. The rim
> is centered between the flanges, and the cone nuts will always be a
> set distance from the flanges because they seat into the bearing cups.
> As long as the end of the axle doesn't stick out so much that it
> interferes with your quick release, you should be good. Just eyeball
> it.
>
> If you're really fastidious, though, a Vernier caliper will measure to
> one tenth of a millimeter and cost about $10. They're great to have
> around for other bike maintenance tasks (especially to answer the
> question, "is this crown race ISO or JIS?").
>
> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=27932
>
> Horace.
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 9:24 AM, Ray  wrote:
> > Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
> > carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
> > removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
> > one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
> > Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
> > grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
> > see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.
>
> > It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
> > ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
> > this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
> > greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
> > loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
> > recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
> > can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
> > all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
> > kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
> > axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
> > great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
> > wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
> > off… etc.
>
> > Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
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[RBW] Re: Centering Hub Axles

[Lee]

I can't help you with the hub centering, but often when I take
something apart and have it laid out in order, I take a picture of it
with my digital camera.

Good luck!
Lee

On May 28, 9:24 am, Ray  wrote:
> Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
> carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
> removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
> one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
> Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
> grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
> see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.
>
> It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
> ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
> this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
> greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
> loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
> recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
> can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
> all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
> kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
> axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
> great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
> wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
> off… etc.
>
> Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…

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Re: [RBW] Centering Hub Axles

[Horace]

It doesn't matter if the hub is centered on the axle exactly. The rim
is centered between the flanges, and the cone nuts will always be a
set distance from the flanges because they seat into the bearing cups.
As long as the end of the axle doesn't stick out so much that it
interferes with your quick release, you should be good. Just eyeball
it.

If you're really fastidious, though, a Vernier caliper will measure to
one tenth of a millimeter and cost about $10. They're great to have
around for other bike maintenance tasks (especially to answer the
question, "is this crown race ISO or JIS?").

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=27932

Horace.


On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 9:24 AM, Ray  wrote:
> Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
> carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
> removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
> one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
> Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
> grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
> see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.
>
> It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
> ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
> this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
> greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
> loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
> recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
> can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
> all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
> kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
> axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
> great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
> wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
> off… etc.
>
> Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Mixtes

[Seth Vidal]

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 12:38 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
 wrote:
> There's a 60cm seat tube Wilbury frameset in green at Mt. Airy Bicycles in 
> Maryland.  Here's the website: http://www.bike123.com/  I think they're 
> looking for something close to 2 large, though.
>

I looked at that one up-close. It's got some scratches on it that
suggest, to me,  it has been built up.


-sv

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RE: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Mixtes

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

There's a 60cm seat tube Wilbury frameset in green at Mt. Airy Bicycles in 
Maryland.  Here's the website: http://www.bike123.com/  I think they're looking 
for something close to 2 large, though.

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of JoelMatthews
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 10:49 AM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Mixtes

Couple months ago someone sold a very good condition Wilbury frame and fork on 
eBay.  Drew a lot of interest and wound up selling for a premium.

They are lovely frames.

On May 28, 9:25 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 11:57 PM, CycloFiend wrote:
>
> >  
> >http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc294-davidestes0407.html
>
> They're wonderful bikes if you ever come across one!  I ride my wife's 
> occasionally and it's a great bike.  If I find the larger sized one 
> (60cm I
> think) at the right price, I'd be VERY tempted to get it.
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
>
> "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is 
> something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  
> ~Bill Nye, scientist guy

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[RBW] Centering Hub Axles

[Ray]

Short version: I had the rear hub axle of the Atlantis apart and had
carefully laid out the parts on a cookie tin in the order that I had
removed each from the axle, including the ball bearings.  I had left
one cone on the axle, just as the books and videoes all recommend.
Over skips my four-year-old granddaughter to see what's happening with
grandpa. She naturally grabs the edge of tin to lift her head over to
see, and … well, you can imagine the rest of the story.

It took a while, but I managed to locate every piece, including all 18
ball bearings. (A magnet duct-taped to stick worked really well for
this recovery mission.  It also helped that each bearing was still
greased and not anxious to roll all over the garage floor.) I down-
loaded the schematic of the hub from the Shimano site, and in-fact had
recovered all the various bits and pieces. I threw everything into a
can of Orange, scrubbed, then rinsed and sun dried on the deck.  Then,
all a-fluster (still angry at myself for being so careless knowing the
kids were here), and without thinking, I removed the one cone from the
axle to carefully clean all the threads.  They sure do look shiny and
great now, but I soon realized that I can't readily center my axle/
wheel without a whole bunch of trial and error adjusting… on, off… on,
off… etc.

Tips, techniques, and short-cuts VERY MUCH appreciated…

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

[Jim M.]

I wouldn't see a problem with using Synergys at your weight,
especially with 36 spokes. You might want to call Rich Lesnik and ask
his advice.

jim m
wc ca

On May 28, 6:57 am, Ginz  wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> What sort of wheel build will you be installing on your Hunqapillar?
>
> I found a set of XT M900 36h hubs that I will use on my Hunqapillar
> and would like a rim that is good for trails, can run a 26"x2.1 tire,
> but also run the 2.35" Big Apple if desired.  I'm a lightweight at1
> 30lbs and would expect these wheels to handle the occasional loaded
> tour should I chose to do one.  I don't care much about weight.
>
> Any thoughts on rim choice?  Velocity Chuckker?  Sun Rhyno Lite?  Am I
> too light to worry much about rim choice?
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> -Ginz

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

[Bruce]

I run 37 mm Paselas on 26" Aeroheats on my Rambouillet. Very nice ride btw.





From: Ginz 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Fri, May 28, 2010 10:17:30 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

Joel and Patrick,

Thanks for the replies.  I guess I'm considering the Velocity Aeroheat
AT (24mm), which is the 26" version of the Dyad or the Cliffhanger
(28mm).


  

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[RBW] Re: Zefal 'Lock & Roll' Seatpost Clamp is Stuck

[Adam]

Yes.  It's happened to me quite a few times.  Turn it over and give it
a few hardy taps on the rounded point where the magnetic bearing lie
inside.  It should then freely open.  This has worked for me almost
every time.  If that doesn't work I'd recommend using some pliers,
rather than a saw, to bend it open though it will then lose it's
security.

Let me know if that doesn't work.

Cheers,
Adam

On May 27, 4:12 pm, Jim Boggs  wrote:
> I'm having trouble with a Zefal 'Lock & Roll' seatpost clamp I bought
> a few months back. It's never given me problems before, but when I
> went to adjust the seat yesterday, I found that the clamp would not
> open when I flipped the bike upside down so the clamp would be in the
> release position. The clamp will wiggle a few millimeters, but it will
> not fully open. Has anyone got a trick that might work to open that
> bad boy?

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[RBW] Re: Selling The Quickbeams

[Rick]

As promised, here's a couple of pictures of the 52cm QB:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58462...@n00/4647195269/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58462...@n00/4647195223/

Also, I've been asked to provide standover heights, so, for the 64cm,
it's 88cm; for the 52cm, it's 76cm.

Rick



On May 27, 9:34 am, Rick  wrote:
> We've had them for about a year, and now we're ready to try another
> approach to urban cycling; hers is a 52cm frame with Nitto racks front
> and rear, albatross handlebars with cork grips and Tektro Reverse
> levers, a Green Brooks B17, and a large green tweed Baggins. I'll take
> her bike out today, take a few pictures, and post them later tonight.
>
> His is the 64cm frame, decked out with, well, check it 
> out:http://www.ecovelo.info/2009/12/03/a-sweet-city-bike/
> Mostly, I've built it with Albatross Bars,, Wood grips, B67 saddle,
> B&M lighting with a bottle generator, ABUS "Cafe" lock with chain,
> Berthoud fenders, and a Pletscher double stand.
>
> We're flexible on pricing, but we're not in a hurry, either; the bikes
> are in Sacramento, and the negotiated price will not include shipping.
> No, I will not be parting the bikes out--it's a "take it or leave it"
> kind of thing--and if anyone wants to buy both of them, I'll be happy
> to discuss an additional discount. As for pricing, I'll start with the
> "make me an offer" approach, and let's see where that goes; I've got
> $2600 invested in the 64cm, and $2100 in the 52cm, so I'll obviously
> be trying to minimize my losses. I'll keep this posted here for a
> week, and if nothing happens, the next stop will be EBay...and I hate
> going there! :-)
>
> Thanks,
> Rick

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

[Ginz]

Joel and Patrick,

Thanks for the replies.  I guess I'm considering the Velocity Aeroheat
AT (24mm), which is the 26" version of the Dyad or the Cliffhanger
(28mm).

Maybe the 24mm Aeroheat (ie. Dyad) would allow me to run a 2.1", a
2.35" and even a 1.75" tire while a 1.75" tire is awfully skinny for a
28mm rim.

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

[JoelMatthews]

Velocity Dyads are tough, wide rims and will stand up to a lot of
abuse.

On May 28, 8:57 am, Ginz  wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> What sort of wheel build will you be installing on your Hunqapillar?
>
> I found a set of XT M900 36h hubs that I will use on my Hunqapillar
> and would like a rim that is good for trails, can run a 26"x2.1 tire,
> but also run the 2.35" Big Apple if desired.  I'm a lightweight at1
> 30lbs and would expect these wheels to handle the occasional loaded
> tour should I chose to do one.  I don't care much about weight.
>
> Any thoughts on rim choice?  Velocity Chuckker?  Sun Rhyno Lite?  Am I
> too light to worry much about rim choice?
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> -Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Wheels

[William]

I'll be running 36 hole Bontrager Fairlanes.  They are eyeleted box
section rims with an Asymmetric rear.  I got them through Trek about
10 years ago.  I was holding on to them for a touring wheelset, built
them up for my Hillborne and then passed them from the Hillborne to
the Hunqapillar build pile and built a set of 32 hole wheels for the
Hillborne.

On May 28, 6:57 am, Ginz  wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> What sort of wheel build will you be installing on your Hunqapillar?
>
> I found a set of XT M900 36h hubs that I will use on my Hunqapillar
> and would like a rim that is good for trails, can run a 26"x2.1 tire,
> but also run the 2.35" Big Apple if desired.  I'm a lightweight at1
> 30lbs and would expect these wheels to handle the occasional loaded
> tour should I chose to do one.  I don't care much about weight.
>
> Any thoughts on rim choice?  Velocity Chuckker?  Sun Rhyno Lite?  Am I
> too light to worry much about rim choice?
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> -Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Mixtes

[JoelMatthews]

Couple months ago someone sold a very good condition Wilbury frame and
fork on eBay.  Drew a lot of interest and wound up selling for a
premium.

They are lovely frames.

On May 28, 9:25 am, cyclotourist  wrote:
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 11:57 PM, CycloFiend wrote:
>
> >  
> >http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc294-davidestes0407.html
>
> They're wonderful bikes if you ever come across one!  I ride my wife's
> occasionally and it's a great bike.  If I find the larger sized one (60cm I
> think) at the right price, I'd be VERY tempted to get it.
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
>
> "Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
> wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,
> scientist guy

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Mixtes

[cyclotourist]

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 11:57 PM, CycloFiend wrote:

>  
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc294-davidestes0407.html
>
>
They're wonderful bikes if you ever come across one!  I ride my wife's
occasionally and it's a great bike.  If I find the larger sized one (60cm I
think) at the right price, I'd be VERY tempted to get it.
-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

"Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something
wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym."  ~Bill Nye,
scientist guy

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[RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[JoelMatthews]

> Without evidence to the contrary, I'm basically
> postulating the motolites are top-tier linear pulls. And of course
> they look stunning.

Not the easiest brakes in the world to install, but very easy to
maintain and adjust once installed.  Powerful, yet light and with
excellent modulation. Good looking as well.

But as I say above, cannot promise you will not have issues with the
rack.  The brakes are designed for mountain bike racing, not for
touring bikes and racks.  If you can get them to work though - as I
have - they are a great choice for touring.

On May 28, 8:49 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Yeah, when it comes to brakes I know more expensive isn't always worth
> it. On my Trek hybrid (about which I have very little complaint,
> really) I've been satisfied with that $10 Tektro linear pull purchased
> specifically to address the interference issue. Tektro makes some low
> cost high value stuff, I think.
>
> I'm sure that I can resolve any interference issues by choosing canti
> brakes. But every time I see them, all I see are setup variables and
> pokey-outy issues. I know they aren't as complicated or use as they
> make me feel they would be. But for now I have no reason to move from
> linear pulls. Without evidence to the contrary, I'm basically
> postulating the motolites are top-tier linear pulls. And of course
> they look stunning.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Slean
>
> On May 27, 11:43 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
>
>
> > FWIW, the Rivendell installed (and that is important, since I myself have
> > never been able to get cantis to work optimally -- gad, creeping bus. speak
> > brain rot! -- with drop bar levers)  Tektro wide cantis work better than any
> > brakes I've used, now, before and (I suppose) will use, and that includes V
> > brakes. And they do work with a Gnashbar front rack.
>
> > On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 10:36 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
>
> > thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > > Specifically, I'm interested in whether this combination works with a
> > > Sam Hillborne. That is, does the cable/noodle canoe interfere with the
> > > part of the mini that protudes backward into the fork's brake mount
> > > hole? I had problems like that on a bike I now own and ended up
> > > finding a peculiarly-sized tektro brake that was short enough to go
> > > under the rack's mounting brace (that was a Nitto M-12 mounted on a
> > > Trek hybrid bike).
>
> > > I'm contemplating getting a pair of Motolites but don't want to go
> > > through the hassle if it turns out they interfere with the rack. There
> > > are other brakes that I'm sure I can be happy with.
>
> > > So... anyone have any experience with a Paul motolite / Nitto mini
> > > combination?
>
> > > Yours,
> > > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > >  e...@googlegroups.com>
> > > .
> > > For more options, visit this group at
> > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> > --
> > Patrick Moore
> > Albuquerque, NM
> > For professional resumes, contact
> > Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com(505) 227-0523- Hide 
> > quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Hunqapillar Wheels

[PATRICK MOORE]

The main concern for rims at your weight is sufficient width for such fat
tires. FWIW, the stock rims on my Monocog 29er, which came with 2.35 WTB
knobbies (later replaced with Big Apples) are just shy of 25 mm wide on the
outside. They worked fine. (I now have 45 mm wide rims, but I went to this
trouble for the sake of running very low pressures, for sand, with less
sidewall flex on pavement.)

I am 40 lb heavier than you, and the 25 mm rims held the 60s without
pavement steering flop as long as I ran at least 20 - 22 lb in front. With
the 45s the front sweet spot is 16-17 lb. (I go as low as 12 on sand.)

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 7:57 AM, Ginz  wrote:

> Hello All,
>
> What sort of wheel build will you be installing on your Hunqapillar?
>
> I found a set of XT M900 36h hubs that I will use on my Hunqapillar
> and would like a rim that is good for trails, can run a 26"x2.1 tire,
> but also run the 2.35" Big Apple if desired.  I'm a lightweight at1
> 30lbs and would expect these wheels to handle the occasional loaded
> tour should I chose to do one.  I don't care much about weight.
>
> Any thoughts on rim choice?  Velocity Chuckker?  Sun Rhyno Lite?  Am I
> too light to worry much about rim choice?
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> -Ginz
>
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>


-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Hunqapillar Wheels

[Ginz]

Hello All,

What sort of wheel build will you be installing on your Hunqapillar?

I found a set of XT M900 36h hubs that I will use on my Hunqapillar
and would like a rim that is good for trails, can run a 26"x2.1 tire,
but also run the 2.35" Big Apple if desired.  I'm a lightweight at1
30lbs and would expect these wheels to handle the occasional loaded
tour should I chose to do one.  I don't care much about weight.

Any thoughts on rim choice?  Velocity Chuckker?  Sun Rhyno Lite?  Am I
too light to worry much about rim choice?

Thanks for any thoughts.

-Ginz

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Re: [RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[PATRICK MOORE]

If I were setting up my Sam Hill by myself, I too would have chosen V brakes
-- Tektros -- for the hassle free factor; in fact I had a set of Tektros
with drop V levers put away for such a build. The only reason I like these
cantis -- and the only reason they work so well -- is that the bike came
built by brake-competent people at Rivendell. But man! they are powerful! I
wish the BB7 Road front disk on my 29er ss -- 180 mm rotor, organic pads,
not bad -- was as powerful as this front Tektro canti.

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 7:49 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Yeah, when it comes to brakes I know more expensive isn't always worth
> it. On my Trek hybrid (about which I have very little complaint,
> really) I've been satisfied with that $10 Tektro linear pull purchased
> specifically to address the interference issue. Tektro makes some low
> cost high value stuff, I think.
>
> I'm sure that I can resolve any interference issues by choosing canti
> brakes. But every time I see them, all I see are setup variables and
> pokey-outy issues. I know they aren't as complicated or use as they
> make me feel they would be. But for now I have no reason to move from
> linear pulls. Without evidence to the contrary, I'm basically
> postulating the motolites are top-tier linear pulls. And of course
> they look stunning.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[Thomas Lynn Skean]

Yeah, when it comes to brakes I know more expensive isn't always worth
it. On my Trek hybrid (about which I have very little complaint,
really) I've been satisfied with that $10 Tektro linear pull purchased
specifically to address the interference issue. Tektro makes some low
cost high value stuff, I think.

I'm sure that I can resolve any interference issues by choosing canti
brakes. But every time I see them, all I see are setup variables and
pokey-outy issues. I know they aren't as complicated or use as they
make me feel they would be. But for now I have no reason to move from
linear pulls. Without evidence to the contrary, I'm basically
postulating the motolites are top-tier linear pulls. And of course
they look stunning.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Slean

On May 27, 11:43 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> FWIW, the Rivendell installed (and that is important, since I myself have
> never been able to get cantis to work optimally -- gad, creeping bus. speak
> brain rot! -- with drop bar levers)  Tektro wide cantis work better than any
> brakes I've used, now, before and (I suppose) will use, and that includes V
> brakes. And they do work with a Gnashbar front rack.
>
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 10:36 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
>
>
>
>
>
> thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > Specifically, I'm interested in whether this combination works with a
> > Sam Hillborne. That is, does the cable/noodle canoe interfere with the
> > part of the mini that protudes backward into the fork's brake mount
> > hole? I had problems like that on a bike I now own and ended up
> > finding a peculiarly-sized tektro brake that was short enough to go
> > under the rack's mounting brace (that was a Nitto M-12 mounted on a
> > Trek hybrid bike).
>
> > I'm contemplating getting a pair of Motolites but don't want to go
> > through the hassle if it turns out they interfere with the rack. There
> > are other brakes that I'm sure I can be happy with.
>
> > So... anyone have any experience with a Paul motolite / Nitto mini
> > combination?
>
> > Yours,
> > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > e...@googlegroups.com>
> > .
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com(505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Re: Zefal 'Lock & Roll' Seatpost Clamp is Stuck

[JoelMatthews]

Mine got stuck too.  I could not work a solution and had to cut it off
with a hack saw.

Too bad.  It is a good idea.

On May 27, 6:12 pm, Jim Boggs  wrote:
> I'm having trouble with a Zefal 'Lock & Roll' seatpost clamp I bought
> a few months back. It's never given me problems before, but when I
> went to adjust the seat yesterday, I found that the clamp would not
> open when I flipped the bike upside down so the clamp would be in the
> release position. The clamp will wiggle a few millimeters, but it will
> not fully open. Has anyone got a trick that might work to open that
> bad boy?

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[RBW] Re: any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[JoelMatthews]

> and that includes V brakes.

Motolites are clearly a head above in the V brake crowd.

Answering the O.P., Motolites are big and the risers and noodle can
get in the way.

I have Motolites on the Bruce Gordon.  I had to work a custom install
for the rear rack.  I ultimately could not use a Pass Stow (which may
be fortunate, as the Tubus Tara with a bar bag is probably better for
loaded touring any way) as the noodle and the risers were in the way.

I have no experience with the Nitto rack.  All I can say is you will
need to check.  Paul is a good operation.  I am sure if the Motolites
did not work they would allow you to exchange for a set of Cantis.

On May 27, 11:43 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> FWIW, the Rivendell installed (and that is important, since I myself have
> never been able to get cantis to work optimally -- gad, creeping bus. speak
> brain rot! -- with drop bar levers)  Tektro wide cantis work better than any
> brakes I've used, now, before and (I suppose) will use, and that includes V
> brakes. And they do work with a Gnashbar front rack.
>
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 10:36 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
>
>
>
>
>
> thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > Specifically, I'm interested in whether this combination works with a
> > Sam Hillborne. That is, does the cable/noodle canoe interfere with the
> > part of the mini that protudes backward into the fork's brake mount
> > hole? I had problems like that on a bike I now own and ended up
> > finding a peculiarly-sized tektro brake that was short enough to go
> > under the rack's mounting brace (that was a Nitto M-12 mounted on a
> > Trek hybrid bike).
>
> > I'm contemplating getting a pair of Motolites but don't want to go
> > through the hassle if it turns out they interfere with the rack. There
> > are other brakes that I'm sure I can be happy with.
>
> > So... anyone have any experience with a Paul motolite / Nitto mini
> > combination?
>
> > Yours,
> > Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
> > .
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
> (505) 227-0523- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] any one using paul motolites on a bike with a nitto mini front rack?

[CycloFiend]

on 5/27/10 9:36 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean at thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:

> Specifically, I'm interested in whether this combination works with a
> Sam Hillborne. That is, does the cable/noodle canoe interfere with the
> part of the mini that protudes backward into the fork's brake mount
> hole? 

This doesn't show a setup with a linear-pull type brake, but it has detail
of the shape of the Nitto Mini-front rack attachment point.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/517196682

I actually added the nylon spacer so that the rack would clear the canti
brake cable, as my hanger is a non-standard setup.

It's definitely going to depend upon the arm length, which I don't have at
ready reference. 

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
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