We had a string of rim failures this summer, maybe 5-6 in just a few weeks (it
seemed). All were cases of simple wear, except in Eric's case, where there was
an obvious groove likely caused by a foreign object in an otherwise lightly
worn rim. One guy had worn out and cracked both rims in a
Jim,
One reason Foss stresses mounting the tube when totally deflated is
they stretch very little. When I initially installed a pair on a (non
Riv) bike, one had some air in and was basically impossible to seat on
the rim.
BTW, the Foss tubes get even less pliable when cold. After struggling
I'm running a pair on my Hunqapillar with 700x50 Duremes. Followed the
instructions to the letter, including their special rim tape and had no
issues at all. So far, I haven't had any flats or problems but I've been
traveling a lot and haven't been able to ride much.
My only observations are that
On Dec 5, 2011, at 2:35 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
We had a string of rim failures this summer, maybe 5-6 in just a few weeks
(it seemed). All were cases of simple wear, except in Eric's case, where
there was an obvious groove likely caused by a foreign object in an otherwise
Like everybody else, I am glad you are OK. Next to a fork failure, a
rim blowout is perhaps the worst mechanical failure.
If you use your rear brake for slowing, you'll wear out rear rims in
quick succession. Rear rims collect much more road grit than front
ones (spray from front wheel). The grit
Manny,
Riding around with a christmas tree strapped on your back is decidedly
un-racer-ish.
You get style points for this move.
-JimD
On Dec 4, 2011, at 10:51 PM, Manuel Acosta wrote:
Found more pictures on the cam. These include camera dueling with Mr.
Harry Hugel, sample photos of some
Very funny. It hits on several topics that come up here from time to time.
I agree with most of her criticisms of the sport. I guess I ride bikes and
am not a cyclist.
It made me feel more comfortable about the amount I spend on bikes when I
realize there are folks who do spend as much as he
Hi Everyone,
Sadly, I have heartbreaking news about Jon's son, Auggie.
From the Caring Bridge website for Auggie:
At 4:15 a.m., Monday, December 5, 2011, we lost our son
and brother, Augusto Frederic Grant. He fought valiantly, backed by the
best doctors using the latest
Good stuff. In the next installment, he can describe all the exotic
ailments that can develop from over-training. Sort of the organ
recital for the sporty set.
dougP
On Dec 5, 8:12 am, John Blish jbl...@gmail.com wrote:
Very funny. It hits on several topics that come up here from time to
All I can say is that I tried a set of Tektros on there first, and the
spacing of the posts is too narrow for them. Actually, the old Dia-compes
work and feel really good - probably even better with modern pads, which I
just didn't get to. I had a set of DC 980s on another bike for a while, and
Grant's been posting pics of some neat parts on the Blug lately. I love
anything shiny with the Phil logo on it, and those CHP pedals looked
way cool, so of course I made the mistake of looking for them on Ebay. I
missed the first set I bid on to someone willing to pay $128 + shipping,
which
I saw two I'm all right Jack fender flaps in this thread!
I'm all right Jack is what Brit's say when something is working well
for them, and it's just too bad for you if you don't benefit as well.
The application to fender flaps is when a bicycle only has a front
fender flap. So the presence of
Ever since I installed the Nitto Mini Front Rack on my Atlantis, the
mounting rod that mounts through the fork crown hole interferes with the
link wire of my IRD cantis. You can see a picture of the IRD cantis and
how low the link wire sits here:
http://www.interlocracing.com/brake_canti.html
It exists, I am bewildered. I can't figure out the reason for the
assymetrical diagatubes in the rear triangle, or what those D-shaped
braze-ons are for. Discuss, people who discuss things.
http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/13791776081/odd-new-bike-p-2
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D-shaped braze-ons have to be anchor points for a carrying strap -- see Grant's
Atlantis in the Staph Bikes post, which has one made of what looks like rim
tape.
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
I agree about the carry strap D-rings. Grant has talked about those before. I
wonder if the left chainstay middie is positioned that way to accommodate a
side-mount trailer hitch? Or, one of those heavy duty stay-mounted kickstands
used for loaded tourers?
How about a picture of your setup?
The Riv picture shows oodles of clearance using brakes that aren't IRD.
Your brake pads probably have a set of spacers that have a thick side and a
thin side. If the thick side is on the rim side of the setup now, swapping
the thin side spacer to the
there are link wires that are shorter/longer that could help with the
height. but easiest would be to use a straddle carrier style instead
of a link wire, like this http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ca21.htm
i'm used a similiar one on my sam h with the same rack and same
brakes.
that rack is now
absolutely beautiful color on the bombadil, why did you use the marks
rack instead of a mini front?
On Dec 5, 2:51 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
All I can say is that I tried a set of Tektros on there first, and the
spacing of the posts is too narrow for them. Actually, the old Dia-compes
I'm not completely convinced about the carry strap being a slam dunk since
the downtube thingy splits the two water bottle braze ons. If that's what
it is then you could run a strap OR a water bottle, but not both.
I'm trying to take a clue from the horizontal rear dropout WITH a rear
On Mon, Dec 5, 2011 at 2:18 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm trying to take a clue from the horizontal rear dropout WITH a rear
derailer tab. Horizontal implies we're moving the wheel around, but the
derailer tab implies we wont have to move the wheel around to take up chain
slack.
Maybe the One Big Option (mentioned in the original post) is derailleur or
high end IGH (Rohloff or Alfine 11, both of which have sufficiently wide range
to obviate need for front shifting, which the original post says the HS doesn't
have); hence the seemingly contradictory horizontal drops and
Actually, we see one dt shifter boss on the right side, and the D-shaped
thingy seems to block a front derailer placement. I've been expecting an
IGH bike from Rivendell..I think this is it. I assume a
cassette-plus-rear-derailer option will be available. You could made that
with a Schlumpf
And since the gamblers get to choose IGH or derailleur (assuming that's the big
option), a hanger-less dropout could be used for the IGH bikes?
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe Bernard
Sent:
The Rohloff takes a dedicated dropout. Does anyone see anything like that
here?
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You can use a torque arm on the Rohloff with a regular dropout, but I assume
Grant would not use such a kludgey solution if that were the hub -- good point.
Alfine 11?
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Why the Mark's rack? Honestly, I had one on hand, and if the rack fits...
I'm sure the mini would be great too, but the MR is as solid as I'll ever
need, takes the Platrack that I also use, and re-adapts to other
bikes/locations that the mini won't. (like out back if I'm in the mood)
Yeah, the
Here's the best I could do trying to get it all in one shot:
http://bit.ly/taKfSA
I'll try the brake spacers. Seems like it would get it nowhere near the
kind of clearance Riv show?
Cheers
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Hi Minh,
Yes, I bought extra draw-bolts from Velo-Orange, to keep the fender
from rubbing when the stay twisted around the single draw-bolt. I
moved the stays down at the same time. If I were to do it over, I
wouldn't move the stays down as far, and I'd affix the flaps Kelly's.
Do the Berthoud
If it makes more demand for jtek to make the Alfine 11 bar-end shifter, I'm all for it. jtek says they're working on it, though. Of course, I'm getting way ahead of things here.
-Original Message- From: Joe Bernard Sent: Dec 5, 2011 3:10 PM To:
I assume my 'highwater' rear fender is one of those I'm all right
Jack flaps. It's a Jack Flap. I can imagine a situation where my rear
fender could cause someone an issue, such as moving to Portland, or
suddenly taking up randonneuring, but so far it hasn't been an issue.
As it is, the high
Hey all -- I have added three more pix of the strange bulge found on the
sidewall of the failed rim. I have appreciated all of your responses, and I
hope
I don't burn you all out if I ask that you weigh in on this new evidence, too.
Looking forward to your responses. Here's the new link to the
+1. A carrier and straddle wire works easier with a front rack, IMO.
Had that setup on my Sam Hillborne with Nitto Front Rack until I
decided to go with V brakes instead.
But a longer link wire would also work if you have one. And if there
is enough extra length in your remaining brake cable.
I was thinking more far afield. Sturmey Archer 3 or 5 speed with
coaster brake. Wouldn't the brake arm end up just under the left side
curvatube? So, an option between that and a 1x9 derailer option.
An aside - have run a 1x9 during the summer on a non-Riv bike.
Discovered a 39T front combined
Agree with Jim here - my rim failure was on a fairly new rim (less
than a week old), with less than 100 miles on it. 36 spokes. Just
happen to be a stone that cut really sharp and deep.
Will admit to having one bike with 32 hole rims. Otherwise,
everything is 36 hole. And even there I feel at
I'm skeptical GP would consider the gear range of an SA 3 or SA 5 trail or
touring worthy, which he says this bike is. Maybe. But the gearing Riv
typically recommends for touring -- say 46-36-24 and 13-32 or 13-36 on the back
-- yields a range of almost 500%; the Sturmey 3 speed is only like
This afternoon I glanced out my office window to see a young woman on
a beautiful maroon Hunqapillar kitted out with touring racks and a
giant basket. Well that's cool, I thought. After walking down to the
bank and the art store (to buy eggs of all things), I was stowing the
eggs in the
But I just looked again at the left side diagatube. I think you're right.
Gear range be damned...
-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of EricP
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2011 8:47 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Lay a straightedge against the rim braking surface. As it wears, it will
become concave. If it has started to actually bulge then it should be
immediately removed from service and replaced because it is in active failure
mode. However, the concavity can make it look like the rim is bulging
On Dec 5, 2011, at 7:31 PM, Ray Shine wrote:
Hey all -- I have added three more pix of the strange bulge found on the
sidewall of the failed rim. I have appreciated all of your responses, and I
hope I don't burn you all out if I ask that you weigh in on this new
evidence, too. Looking
Thanks for that link. I looked at all of those page links and the photos show
damage exactly like mine. I think you guys are correct. I am going to cut a
section out and I'll post another two pix or so. Still, what's with that bulge?
From: Tim McNamara
Not sure how important this is - but the image from Riv looks more
like the Shimano brakse than the iRD cantilevers.
I agree that a longer straddle wire will help - be careful not to
lengthen it too much, as that may reduce the mechanical advantage,
thereby de-powereing your brakes.
Corwin
On
Grant has voiced opposition to IGHs before, and nothing about this suggests
this will be a dedicated IGH bike. This one appears to lack the Rohloff OEM
mount, as well as the ISCG tab for a Hammerschmidt crank (HS?). No anchor point
for the Schlumpf either.
The horizontal dropout with
Ha! Just saw the photo of the HS. Last March, Grant showed Erin and
me his beautiful design of asymmetrical seatstays. He had a bit of a
rig set up and showed 'em to us over a latte. I remember how stunning
they were and how he was playing with the idea. In June, when the
speculation began,
The horizontals make me think IGH more than anything else. It's the only
Rivendell bike to have them (other than custom), which is significant.
What's he doing in there...?
On Mon, Dec 5, 2011 at 7:07 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
Grant has voiced opposition
Awesomeness!
On Mon, Dec 5, 2011 at 6:03 PM, Philip Williamson
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:
This afternoon I glanced out my office window to see a young woman on
a beautiful maroon Hunqapillar kitted out with touring racks and a
giant basket. Well that's cool, I thought. After walking
I think Grant's opposition to IGH is not a current sentiment. His tastes have
evolved some in recent years, and IGH has grown immensely in popularity in that
time as well.
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I think the anchor mechanism is built into the Schlumpf BB mount...
that crank is one fancy piece of engineering. And then there's the
lower-priced FSA Metropolis Patterson crank, which doesn't require any
anchor point... pretty cool.
On Dec 5, 10:07 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
That is really cool . . . -- Forrest
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Philip:
That's about as good as a Monday at the office could get. And she'd
ridden it across the country, so the Hunq is a capable touring bike,
in case there are any doubters.
dougP
On Dec 5, 6:03 pm, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
wrote:
This afternoon I glanced out my office
I'll take a guess that the diagatube stays have something to do with
forces generated by the drive being on the right side wanting to
twist the rear triangle. But that's a real longshot, considering it's
not a problem on other Rivs. Maybe the natural progression of the
2TT?
Sounds like he's on
When I added the Nitto mini to my Atlantis with the stock Shimano low
profile cantis I had the same situation. Between fiddling around with
the adjustable side and the barrel adjuster, I could just get the link
wire to come off after slackening up on the barrel adjuster. Kind of
a pain. The
Building up the hilsen and I'm trying to use a set of thumbies on
noodles. Running into a few issues:
1. do I need to buy a set of noodles to make the angle work to carry
the cable housing down to the down tube stops?
2. I bought the 'road' thumbies and yet I can't quite make them stop
rotating
but why is the hanger so short? that stubbly little thing will likely
limit the range of the casette?
wild speculation abounds
Rob
On Dec 5, 7:36 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
The horizontals make me think IGH more than anything else. It's the only
Rivendell bike to have
My experience putting these on Noodle bars (or maybe Soba):
1. No, no need.
2. Yes, needed to shim them. Used some cotton bar tape and it worked very well.
Light grey.
-Jim W.
On Dec 5, 2011, at 9:19 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:
Building up the hilsen and I'm trying to use a set of thumbies on
Thanks for bringing the Patterson crank to my attention, it seems
really cool.
Except that die cast alloy makes me think of the cheap metal cars I
was always breaking as a kid. Eek.
Philip
On Dec 5, 7:51 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
I think the anchor mechanism is
Hey guys. Selling my Chris King Classic Cross Wheelset. It's in
great shape. Silver. Maybe 500 miles? Under 1000 for sure. 28 spoke
front hub laced to a silver DT 1.1 rim. 32 spoke rear hub laced to a
silver Mavic Open Pro rim. Built by the guy you want to have building
your wheels:) $500.
I expected a steel tube handle instead of a strap, myself.
Drat! I thought the seat tube looked extremely slack, but Photoshop
tells me it's a dead-on 72 degrees. Personally, I'm not holding my
breath for an IGH Rivendell bike. It would be a little like Grant
suddenly rolling low-trail forks. And
Thanks for the post Eric. Nice ride. I estimated it took you guys 14
hours to ride 140 miles.
On Thu, Dec 1, 2011 at 8:40 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
From last Friday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=143MqQlB1A8
Riv content: I rode my Riv-ish fixed gear Motobecane (Brooks,
After scoring a Nitto Racing cage at the RBW garage sale today, I took off
for a couple laps on the mountain. It was hecka breezy out, and lots of
downed debris from the trees near Rock City, making for slippery road
surface. Something I noticed was that, after a few weeks riding the
fixed-gear
I zip-tie my leather mud flap to a small piece of plastic. Old piece of credit
card works great. I trim the plastic bit to just the right width so that it
snaps in place between the rolled edges on the underside of the fender. This
holds the flap in place and gives a clean look with no fender
I've blown front tires on steep descents, due to over-heated rims (scary
crashes). But never a rim itself. I agree with Grant, it's most likely your
rim was compromised by a stress riser in the form of some grit on your
brake pad. That, or the seam on the rim was defective in the first place.
-
No affiliation whatsoever.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Rivendell-Road-Standard-frameset-62cm-built-Waterford-/260909153612?pt=Road_Bikeshash=item3cbf65bd4c#ht_500wt_1203
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Great ride, great video! And all in a fixed gear, wow. I guess it helps to
have the train schedules as absolute motivators to get there in time.
- Andrew, Berkeley
On Thu, Dec 1, 2011 at 5:40 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
From last Friday:
I use waxed hand sewing thread (Hemingway Bartlett V-346 or the beeswax +
hemp twine from Riv) and hand sew leather flaps with a straight stitch to
the inside of the fender through pre-drilled holes in the fender. I've been
doing it for several years in Seattle and now in Portland without
This post makes me queasy. I put old wheels on my AHH frame that I got just
a few months ago. Figuring I'll save a little cash up front and buy nice
wheels later. The little wear indicator isn't showing yet but the rim
braking surface is well worn.
Think I'll be stepping up the hunt for new
my atlantis needs a repaint. and i can't afford joe bell. i can dream
though.
any good recommendations? thanks
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Link wires are available in different sizes. See Sheldon Brown's site for
info
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#ca
But can't your wire slip out of the non-anchored side, to allow your brakes
to fully open?
Beyond that, why not eschew the link wire altogether and use a simple
Whoa horizontal drops, 4 seat stays, brazed on derailuer hanger, it is an
odd bike for sure.
On Dec 5, 2011 4:31 PM, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
It exists, I am bewildered. I can't figure out the reason for the
assymetrical diagatubes in the rear triangle, or what those D-shaped
I'm struggling to understand it. From what I can tell, the mixte-like
rear stays curve to connect to the seat stay on the drive side, but to
the chainstay on the non-drive side. My first reaction was that this
was due to the inherent asymmetry in the stress on the rear triangle
that results from
I run an alfine on my saluki and is sweet, would love horizontal drops
though
On Dec 5, 2011 5:28 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
**
Maybe the One Big Option (mentioned in the original post) is derailleur
or high end IGH (Rohloff or Alfine 11, both of which
tall version not the Deluxe-good used condition. $40 shipped
mike goldman
warwick,r.i.
53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
My guess would be the d-shaped braze-ons are chainguard hangers.
That might explain the dropouts and the tubing in the rear triangle.
Perhaps Riv is ready to make bikes for internal hubs.
On Dec 5, 3:31 pm, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
It exists, I am bewildered. I can't figure out
Couldn’t it be a choice between single speed and cassette?
Whatever it is, it is a great looking frame.
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Many of you will remember, and all of you can relate to Keith
Bontrager's maxim from the late '80s:
Light Strong Inexpensive: Pick Two
It works to some extent with all bike parts, but even IT can't come to
the rescue when the thing is just too light.
Do you know the thickness of the braking
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