[RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread ascpgh
The side play in the upper pulley goes with Shimano's indexing. The shifter 
has a very crisp break when going to the next gear and the abrupt pull of 
cable and the tiny bit of over shift caused by this is moderated in 
movement of the chain by that rear derailleur's bit of slop in that upper 
pulley. Suntour pulleys don't have that play, their indexing shifters took 
up some slack before reaching the index detent. After you snapped through 
the detent, you would go into the free movement prior to the next detent 
until you took your hand off the lever relieving that bit of over shift, 
ending up dead-on the next cog. It would let the  drivetrain start 
click-clicking if you moved the shifter through this without snapping 
through the detent. 

These proprietary index schemes dictate any intended side play of the top 
wheel. For friction shifting on 8-speed I find the crisp accuracy of no 
side play in the rear derailleur compliments friction shifting, although 
not Shimano bar ends in the friction mode; they seem to have less than 
smooth movement, almost like there are ripples in a plastic washer in it 
giving the sense of ghost indents. I've been using Suntour bar ends way 
beyond their intended service life via TLC. 

Once I get to 9-speeds, my friction shifting performance begins to fail the 
precision needed to line the chain and cog directly or quickly enough to 
get things trimmed and quiet, so the extra wiggle of those Shimano pulleys 
is helpful. Similar behavior of derailleur pulleys can be achieved on other 
brands by playing with the included washers of a replacement pulley wheel 
set, even putting side play into a Suntour to perform better in a Shimano 
shifter driver train.

Despite the smaller jumps between cogs of the 9-speed, I found that I 
prefer operational rewards of an 8-speed friction drivetrain using a 
derailleur with no side play in the top pulley. I collected a drawer of old 
Suntour RDs and have a Mavic 840 for that attribute. I've not looked at 
modern Campagnolo or SRAM derailleurs for this attribute, they're just too 
pricey to use as a friction unit.

I think an 8-speed Hilsen with Silver bar end shifters is an optimal 
combination, the Riv combo triple will give you a really useful bike to 
ride in more places than you anticipate.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 8:30:01 PM UTC-5, Doug Williams wrote:

 The derailer company designed the derailer to work properly with indexed 
 shifting systems. That's what more than 90% of their customers use...so no 
 mystery there. Wobbly upper pulleys work best with indexed shifters. It is 
 only the small, deeply disturbed minority using friction shifters who 
 desire an upper pulley that doesn't wobble. I prefer a manual transmission 
 car also. But I recognize that I'm in the minority there as well. If you 
 want to be a retrogrouch, you have to accept that your path will be a 
 lonely one. But it can be a happy and rewarding path.

 Doug Williams

 On Thursday, December 11, 2014 4:22:18 PM UTC-8, lungimsam wrote:

 Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't 
 function optimally in their original orientation. 



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[RBW] Re: OT: best Mac for sophisticated Word Processing, for the $?

2014-12-12 Thread LF
i5 Mac Mini's are quite affordable on the used market, can use up to 16gb 
of RAM. If you like, you can build one to your specifications --  a 
Hackintosh like the CustoMac Mini is the ticket ...  
http://www.tonymacx86.com/building-customac-buyers-guide-november-2014.html

On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:05:25 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 My 17 MacBook Pro is getting on for 5 years old. It's a trooper but I am 
 wondering about eventual replacement once this one reaches the point where 
 it can't work well with the latest Word or Mac OS and ditto Illustrator.

 I am pretty sure that, soon, I'll no longer need a portable computer for 
 work, so a laptop won't be necessary. The principal considerations will be:

 1. Can handle the latest Mac version of Word. (I would like to bury Word 
 and piss on its grave, but my work requires Word and only Word. Open Office 
 don't cut it.)

 2. Can accept if it doesn't come stock with 4 GB of Ram.

 3. Costs as little as possible.
 V
 I had a very satisfactory Mac Mini (Thanks, Ryan) but gave it away to a 
 friend; it also was 2010. Is the Mini a good candidate?

 4. Available used if possible.

 I think my optimum desideratum would be a used -- what, late model Mini? 
 (Something stationary) with an iPad or clone to replace laptop and Fire.

 Whatch'all think?



 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

 *
 *[I]n exploring the physical universe man has made no attempt to explore 
 himself. Much of what goes by the name of pleasure is simply an effort to 
 destroy consciousness. If one started by asking, what is man? what are his 
 needs? how can he best express himself? one would discover that merely 
 having the power to avoid work and live one’s life from birth to death in 
 electric light and to the tune of tinned music is not a reason for doing 
 so.”*
 *  
   -- George Orwell, Pleasure Spots*

 *Though I speak with the tongues of men and of angels, and have not money, 
 I am become as a sounding brass, or a tinkling cymbal. And though I have 
 the gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries, and all knowledge; and 
 though I have all faith, so that I could remove mountains, and have not 
 money, I am nothing. And though I bestow all my goods to feed the poor, and 
 though I give my body to be burned, and have not money, it profiteth me 
 nothing. Money suffereth long, and it is kind; money envieth not; money 
 vaunteth not itself, is not puffed up, doth not behave unseemly, seeketh 
 not her own, is not easily provoked, thinketh no evil; rejoiceth not in 
 iniquity, but rejoiceth in the truth; beareth all things, hopeth all 
 things, endureth all things. . . . And now abideth faith, hope, money, 
 these three; but the greatest of these is money. *
 *  
  -- George Orwell, Keep The Apidistra Flying*
  

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[RBW] Re: ISO used, wind-blocking, UV blocking, decent quality cycling shades

2014-12-12 Thread Ron Mc
I've spent my entire career at microscopes and have taken care of my eyes 
(don't understand people who don't use filters when looking through a 
microscope).  I've always taken care of my eyes.  I drive in Serengetis, 
fish in Smiths and Costas.  I have no worries bicycling in Smiths.  

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 11:41:37 PM UTC-6, hangtownmatt wrote:

 Jim, I couldn't agree more.  It is your EYES!  Patrick, you already had 
 cataract surgery so you know your eyes are vulnerable.  Protect them!  
 By-the-way, your replacement lens implants have UV protection built in.  
 Your primary focus now should be wind, dust and general debris protection.  
 But don't cheap out.   Quality is always worth it in the long run.  I opted 
 for a pair of Maui Jim's.  Not only do they protect they actually enhance 
 vision.  Mine cost a couple hundred bucks but they've held up to daily use 
 for almost three years and they are still going strong.

 Matt  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Phase Two of an Atlantis build

2014-12-12 Thread Tim Gavin
Yeah, great idea for the cable routing, Bill.  Looks clean, and stays out
of your way.

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Re: [RBW] Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Patrick Moore
All Shimano derailleurs I've used, back to pre-indexing slant
parallelograms and up to recent LX models, will friction shift 8 cogs very
well. (9, too.) It never even occurred to me to replace the jockey pulley.

Try it first and see.

One of my last commuting derailleur setups was a quasi halfstep 47/44
with a 7 speed cassette. The middle 5 were half stepped, the outer -- at 13
or a 12 -- was for downhills, and the inner was a 34, a big jump from the
penultimate 24. This was a bailout. It shifted fine from the 24. Shimano
600 (I think; square design, slant para, looked like first Deore but no
housing tension adjustment) pre-index long cage rd, Record dt shifters on
those briefly sold but very nice that put the levers just inboard of the
brake hoods.

On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 2:49 PM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com
wrote:

 I’m looking at getting a Hilsen soon (probably 58cm 650b) and I want to go
 friction only shifting with Silver Shifter bar ends (probably on Albas). I
 decided on Riv’s Sugino 46-36-24 triple up front. From everything I have
 read, 8 speed is the way to go for friction, and 8 is enough for me. I’m
 not a racer so I don’t need to precisely match the cadence of the peloton.
 More important for me is to have a wide range of gears. So for the rear,
 I’m looking at the Shimano Acera HG41 8 Speed MTB Cassette,
 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-34T. I like the 11T for fun downhill runs (I admit
 that I don’t really NEED it). The 34T is so I can get my old body up over
 the hill. I would only use it with the 24 up front for when I climb a
 really nasty hill. The 8 tooth jump between 26 and 34 probably makes the 34
 less than desirable for normal use, but that’s fine as I’ll reserve the 34T
 for use only with the 24T front chainring as an “emergency wimp-out granny
 gear”.



 For the front derailer I’m looking at the Riv recommended Shimano Deore XT
 front derailer (FD-M781X6) – 17160 (Shimano's part number FD-M781X6 or
 M781AX6L or M781AX6S). For the rear, I’m planning on the Riv recommended
 Shimano Deore rear derailer – 17138, (RD M591 SGS).



 1st Question: Are these the best derailer picks for my application, or
 should I look at something else?



 2nd Question: I read that swapping the rear derailer pulleys is a good
 thing for friction shifting because the wobble designed into the top pulley
 (to make index shifting work) has a negative impact on friction shifting.
 But then…I would be putting a wobbly pulley in the lower position (when a
 non-wobbly pulley is called for). Should I just spring for another set of
 pulleys (about $10) so I could put “lower pulleys” in both positions? Would
 this avoid potential problems, or would I just be wasting money?



 Thanks,

 Doug Williams

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-- 
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

*
*[I]n exploring the physical universe man has made no attempt to explore
himself. Much of what goes by the name of pleasure is simply an effort to
destroy consciousness. If one started by asking, what is man? what are his
needs? how can he best express himself? one would discover that merely
having the power to avoid work and live one’s life from birth to death in
electric light and to the tune of tinned music is not a reason for doing
so.”*
*
  -- George Orwell, Pleasure Spots*

*Though I speak with the tongues of men and of angels, and have not money,
I am become as a sounding brass, or a tinkling cymbal. And though I have
the gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries, and all knowledge; and
though I have all faith, so that I could remove mountains, and have not
money, I am nothing. And though I bestow all my goods to feed the poor, and
though I give my body to be burned, and have not money, it profiteth me
nothing. Money suffereth long, and it is kind; money envieth not; money
vaunteth not itself, is not puffed up, doth not behave unseemly, seeketh
not her own, is not easily provoked, thinketh no evil; rejoiceth not in
iniquity, but rejoiceth in the truth; beareth all things, hopeth all
things, endureth all things. . . . And now abideth faith, hope, money,
these three; but the greatest of these is money. *
*
 -- George Orwell, Keep The Apidistra Flying*

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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread tdusky
I am not from the area but I vacation and ride in the Poconos every year, 
lots of hills and climbing between those locations, unless you follow 
the Susquehanna river most of the way. Good Luck
Tom Dusky
Huntington Woods, MI

On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and memorable. 
 So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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[RBW] Re: OT: best Mac for sophisticated Word Processing, for the $?

2014-12-12 Thread Trevor saxton
I have a 8g Ram 2013 MacMini hooked up to TV which accomplishes everything I 
need including photo editing (although I am a newbie to editing) btw I also 
have a iPad air which also works as a second screen for the mini if you want 
that capability,  having said that I am considering selling both and getting a 
MacBook Pro or Air as I hardly use the iPad now that I have an IPhone 6plus 
which has replaced my iPad as my go to portable entertainment device. 

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[RBW] Re: ISO Bay Area frame builder

2014-12-12 Thread tdusky
I had a frame built by John Fitzgerald last year and I am more than pleased 
with the ride and the workmanship. http://www.fitzcyclez.com/word.html mine 
is the orange 700c Rando on that page. I currently own an 64cm 
Atlantis (now for sale) a Riv custom Long Low and a '72 Paramount. The new 
Fitz is the only bike I want to ride. I highly recommend him.
Good Luck with the build.
Tom Dusky
Huntington Woods, MI

On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:25:20 PM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:

 Well, my preferred route to a new custom touring frame fell through. Can 
 any in SF Bay Area suggest great builders who do lugged steel frames? I'm 
 tall enough that I don't fit most stock frames, and but also want to 
 incorporate some specific design ideas that point to a custom. Things like 
 Rohloff IGH with reinforced rear frame instead of bolt-on torque arm; also 
 braze-on centerpulls, and internal wire routing for lighting. Nothing 
 crazy... ;-)

 Thanks,

 - Andrew, Berkeley


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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread 'doc' via RBW Owners Bunch
This sounds like a fun ride, although it could get challenging when you get 
up north.  The Heritage Rail Trail from Ashland to York is a nice and 
relatively easy ride.  Once you get to York, you pick up one of the PA Bike 
Routes and go from there:  http://www.bikepa.com/routes/index.htm  These 
are basically recommended roads, which in parts I'm not sure I'd agree.  
Still, it's a place to start.
 

On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and memorable. 
 So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread 'doc' via RBW Owners Bunch
Also, check these routes out:  
http://www.pahighways.com/other/bicyclepa.html

On Friday, December 12, 2014 10:25:41 AM UTC-5, doc wrote:

 This sounds like a fun ride, although it could get challenging when you 
 get up north.  The Heritage Rail Trail from Ashland to York is a nice and 
 relatively easy ride.  Once you get to York, you pick up one of the PA Bike 
 Routes and go from there:  http://www.bikepa.com/routes/index.htm  These 
 are basically recommended roads, which in parts I'm not sure I'd agree.  
 Still, it's a place to start.
  

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and 
 memorable. So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Shoji Takahashi
Hi Doug,
I have a similar set up to what you're building up:

   - 56cm AHH with Suntour friction down tube shifters (Noodle hbar)
   - Sugino triple and HG41 8 speed rear.
   - Shimano XT front and rear derailers (bit-o-bling, but works nicely)
   
It works great. For the terrain I ride, the triple is overkill. I could do 
fine with 1X or compact double, if I want to pull my kids in the trailer. 
Maybe consider a compact double unless you have lots of hills or will be 
touring. (Shifting a triple isn't hard, but shifting a double is super 
easy.) 

Bottom line: don't over think it. 8- or 9-speed will work just fine. Swap 
pulleys if you're setting it up; don't worry about it if someone else is 
assembling.

Enjoy the ride! It's a great bike.

Shoji




On Thursday, December 11, 2014 4:49:22 PM UTC-5, Doug Williams wrote:

 I’m looking at getting a Hilsen soon (probably 58cm 650b) and I want to go 
 friction only shifting with Silver Shifter bar ends (probably on Albas). I 
 decided on Riv’s Sugino 46-36-24 triple up front. From everything I have 
 read, 8 speed is the way to go for friction, and 8 is enough for me. I’m 
 not a racer so I don’t need to precisely match the cadence of the peloton. 
 More important for me is to have a wide range of gears. So for the rear, 
 I’m looking at the Shimano Acera HG41 8 Speed MTB Cassette, 
 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-34T. I like the 11T for fun downhill runs (I admit 
 that I don’t really NEED it). The 34T is so I can get my old body up over 
 the hill. I would only use it with the 24 up front for when I climb a 
 really nasty hill. The 8 tooth jump between 26 and 34 probably makes the 34 
 less than desirable for normal use, but that’s fine as I’ll reserve the 34T 
 for use only with the 24T front chainring as an “emergency wimp-out granny 
 gear”.

  

 For the front derailer I’m looking at the Riv recommended Shimano Deore XT 
 front derailer (FD-M781X6) – 17160 (Shimano's part number FD-M781X6 or 
 M781AX6L or M781AX6S). For the rear, I’m planning on the Riv recommended 
 Shimano Deore rear derailer – 17138, (RD M591 SGS). 

  

 1st Question: Are these the best derailer picks for my application, or 
 should I look at something else?

  

 2nd Question: I read that swapping the rear derailer pulleys is a good 
 thing for friction shifting because the wobble designed into the top pulley 
 (to make index shifting work) has a negative impact on friction shifting. 
 But then…I would be putting a wobbly pulley in the lower position (when a 
 non-wobbly pulley is called for). Should I just spring for another set of 
 pulleys (about $10) so I could put “lower pulleys” in both positions? Would 
 this avoid potential problems, or would I just be wasting money?

  

 Thanks,

 Doug Williams


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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch
It could take you a little longer, but if you want to get off the road for 
a bit, the Delaware Water Gap Recreational Area is nice. The Old Mine Road 
is on the NJ side of the Delaware River and the (recommended by me) McDade 
Rec.Trail on the PA side will take you north from the little township of 
Delaware Water Gap on I-80 to Milford, PA on I-84, east of Scranton. PA 
Route 6 east can be accessed there and I think it is a designated bike 
route. I'm from VA, so you'd need more onto on that. The hgwy is not 
west-coast standards for shoulders, but it could work. I'll bet Bobby 
Montclair in NJ could verify. There are a lot of rail trails, etc. on the 
NJ side of the river, but most likely just a bit too far east for you?

Paul Germain,
Midlothian, Va

On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and memorable. 
 So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch
Oops. Here's a Delaware Water Gap / McDade Trail link that will get you 
started:
http://www.nps.gov/dewa/planyourvisit/trail-maps-pa.htm

Paul

On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and memorable. 
 So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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[RBW] Re: Longshot Want-To-Trade: My Paul Touring Cantilevers for your Shimano CX70s

2014-12-12 Thread Kevin M
Will the pads clear if you turn them around backwards, that is, so the long 
end is facing away from the fork blades? It okay to run pads like that if 
they aren't the cartridge style pads. That how I do it on my CX bike with 
Neo Retros. 

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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread 'Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch
Finally, here's a trip planning link for PA rte.6, east-west:
http://www.paroute6.com

Paul

On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and memorable. 
 So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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RE: [RBW] Re: ISO used, wind-blocking, UV blocking, decent quality cycling shades

2014-12-12 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Also, Maui Jim absolutely stands behind their products – my wife, who is very 
hard on sunglasses, has gotten at least three replacement pairs free from MJ in 
circumstances where the could certainly have raised a beef, but did not.  Very 
good customer service, and very, very nice products.

No financial or other interest of any kind in MJ.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 12:42 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Cc: internet-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: ISO used, wind-blocking, UV blocking, decent quality cycling 
shades

Jim, I couldn't agree more.  It is your EYES!  Patrick, you already had 
cataract surgery so you know your eyes are vulnerable.  Protect them!  
By-the-way, your replacement lens implants have UV protection built in.  Your 
primary focus now should be wind, dust and general debris protection.  But 
don't cheap out.   Quality is always worth it in the long run.  I opted for a 
pair of Maui Jim's.  Not only do they protect they actually enhance vision.  
Mine cost a couple hundred bucks but they've held up to daily use for almost 
three years and they are still going strong.

Matt
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This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
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confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient of this email, 
you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this 
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Further information about the firm, a list of the Partners and their 
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[RBW] FS: Bags, Shifters

2014-12-12 Thread Michael Ullmer
HAR Bags in Olive - $110 shipped
--I bought these a few months ago and have used them on about 3 rides. I'm 
switching over to Swift Industries Short Stack bags and have no need for 
these. They're in excellent shape. The only thing I did to them was cut 
both of the Irish straps a bit shorter which you can see in the pictures. I 
didn't like the extra strap dangling about.

Suntour Accushift Barcons 7s - $40 shipped
--Good shape, they work in both index and friction mode. I got these from a 
used bike shop but never ended up using them myself. Everything works on 
them as far as I can tell.

Shimano 600 8-speed Downtube Shifters - $35 shipped
--Good shape, I'm including both the flat and curved washers so that you 
can use them as either downtube or thumb shifters.

If you have any questions please e-mail me, thanks!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157649310161459/
Sorry for the awful photos!

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[RBW] Re: ISO Bay Area frame builder

2014-12-12 Thread BSWP
Thanks, all, for the recommendations, and for tolerating Yet Another 
Framebuilder thread. I've been in touch with Fitz, and things looks 
promising, as long as we can incorporate cast vertical dropouts. I'll 
report back with whatever the outcome is. 

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Friday, December 12, 2014 7:18:36 AM UTC-8, tdusky wrote:

 I had a frame built by John Fitzgerald last year and I am more than 
 pleased with the ride and the workmanship. 
 http://www.fitzcyclez.com/word.html mine is the orange 700c Rando on that 
 page. I currently own an 64cm Atlantis (now for sale) a Riv custom Long Low 
 and a '72 Paramount. The new Fitz is the only bike I want to ride. I 
 highly recommend him.
 Good Luck with the build.
 Tom Dusky
 Huntington Woods, MI

 On Wednesday, December 10, 2014 5:25:20 PM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:

 Well, my preferred route to a new custom touring frame fell through. Can 
 any in SF Bay Area suggest great builders who do lugged steel frames? I'm 
 tall enough that I don't fit most stock frames, and but also want to 
 incorporate some specific design ideas that point to a custom. Things like 
 Rohloff IGH with reinforced rear frame instead of bolt-on torque arm; also 
 braze-on centerpulls, and internal wire routing for lighting. Nothing 
 crazy... ;-)

 Thanks,

 - Andrew, Berkeley



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[RBW] Re: Longshot Want-To-Trade: My Paul Touring Cantilevers for your Shimano CX70s

2014-12-12 Thread Bill Lindsay
Thanks Kevin.  good idea but no, that doesn't work for me.  You probably 
have an aluminum or carbon fork that has tall standoffs for the canti 
posts.  Lucky you.  On my fork(s) mountain cartridges hit a lot when run 
front ways, a little when run backwards, and a little with road cartridge 
pads.  Furthermore, the rear pads in the normal direction are already 
flipped around so the long part is away from the stays, and they still hit. 
 

The workaround that is not uncommon is to get the non-cartridge internal 
frame pads like the KoolStop Thinlines and cut them off to clear.  I've 
done that, and it just looks like such a janky workaround, that I'm now 
eager to try brakes that were built for the purpose of clearing the stays. 
 Taller standoffs for the posts is in my opinion the optimum solution for 
this.  Most carbon and some aluminum bikes have this feature, maybe by 
design.  I've never seen a steel bike with deliberately elongated 
canti-posts to offer this benefit, but when I change careers and become a 
custom frame builder, I'm going to do it.  (Dont hold your breath).  



On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:33:54 AM UTC-8, Kevin M wrote:

 Will the pads clear if you turn them around backwards, that is, so the 
 long end is facing away from the fork blades? It okay to run pads like that 
 if they aren't the cartridge style pads. That how I do it on my CX bike 
 with Neo Retros. 



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[RBW] The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch
Still trying to pound a square peg into the round hole, I can't leave well 
enough alone.

I sure hope this hits the spot. Being in between sizes stinks. The tire 
width / brake combo I want just doesnt exist in a size I'm comfortable on. 
So I decided to have cantis added to the Hilsen and try to ignore my fat 
tire craving of the Atlantis. My friend Josh from Avery Co. Cycles did a 
beautiful job with the brake bosses, and Spectrum Powderworks absolutely 
floored me with the paint. I'm very happy with the improved braking and 
feel of the cantis. Time will tell if my choice of this over an Atlantis 
will pan out.

It's nice...so I'm goin riding.

Maybe the only canti Hilsen:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/15980402446/

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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread Bill Lindsay
That's fantastic.  Is that a 700c 59cm Hilsen?  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito CA

On Friday, December 12, 2014 11:28:43 AM UTC-8, jinxed wrote:

 Still trying to pound a square peg into the round hole, I can't leave well 
 enough alone.

 I sure hope this hits the spot. Being in between sizes stinks. The tire 
 width / brake combo I want just doesnt exist in a size I'm comfortable on. 
 So I decided to have cantis added to the Hilsen and try to ignore my fat 
 tire craving of the Atlantis. My friend Josh from Avery Co. Cycles did a 
 beautiful job with the brake bosses, and Spectrum Powderworks absolutely 
 floored me with the paint. I'm very happy with the improved braking and 
 feel of the cantis. Time will tell if my choice of this over an Atlantis 
 will pan out.

 It's nice...so I'm goin riding.

 Maybe the only canti Hilsen:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/15980402446/


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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch
700c 57cm. My first Hilsen was a 59 and was just too big. I was running a 
60 stem and was still reaching. My sweet spot is 56cm, so even this is a 
little long. I'd love to try a 56 Atlantis with something like a big apple.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:41:45 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 That's fantastic.  Is that a 700c 59cm Hilsen?  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito CA




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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread Bill Lindsay
Hey, since you pointed me at your flickr, tell me how I can buy a green ACW 
mug.  More specifically, tell me how I can get my wife to buy me a green 
ACW mug for Christmas.  I posted a flickr message to the same effect.  

On Friday, December 12, 2014 11:48:50 AM UTC-8, jinxed wrote:

 700c 57cm. My first Hilsen was a 59 and was just too big. I was running a 
 60 stem and was still reaching. My sweet spot is 56cm, so even this is a 
 little long. I'd love to try a 56 Atlantis with something like a big apple.

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:41:45 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 That's fantastic.  Is that a 700c 59cm Hilsen?  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito CA




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[RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Doug Williams
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My 
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like a 
full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better friction 
shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most people report 
problems when friction shifting 9. But then I see the 9 speed Shimano HG61 
with bh-group sprocket teeth combination: 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. 
Hey...remove the 12, replace it with an 11 (and an 11 lock ring) and you 
get 11-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. Since the 11 would just be my whoo hoo 
downhill gear I wouldn't mind the 3 tooth jump going from 14 to 11 while 
going down hill. If I can't get up the next hill with a 24 in front and a 
36 in the rear (17.3 gear inches with 650b)...well...let's not say it.

The 9 speed 11-36 would be dreamy if it would friction shift well enough. 
On the other hand, I'm not sure that I could wrap 47 links of chain 
anyway. Hmmm...I guess I should stick with the 8 
speed 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-34T. 

Doug Williams
Spending WAY too much time with Sheldon's Gear Calculator


On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:26:23 AM UTC-8, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Doug,
 I have a similar set up to what you're building up:

- 56cm AHH with Suntour friction down tube shifters (Noodle hbar)
- Sugino triple and HG41 8 speed rear.
- Shimano XT front and rear derailers (bit-o-bling, but works nicely)

 It works great. For the terrain I ride, the triple is overkill. I could do 
 fine with 1X or compact double, if I want to pull my kids in the trailer. 
 Maybe consider a compact double unless you have lots of hills or will be 
 touring. (Shifting a triple isn't hard, but shifting a double is super 
 easy.) 

 Bottom line: don't over think it. 8- or 9-speed will work just fine. Swap 
 pulleys if you're setting it up; don't worry about it if someone else is 
 assembling.

 Enjoy the ride! It's a great bike.

 Shoji




 On Thursday, December 11, 2014 4:49:22 PM UTC-5, Doug Williams wrote:

 I’m looking at getting a Hilsen soon (probably 58cm 650b) and I want to 
 go friction only shifting with Silver Shifter bar ends (probably on Albas). 
 I decided on Riv’s Sugino 46-36-24 triple up front. From everything I have 
 read, 8 speed is the way to go for friction, and 8 is enough for me. I’m 
 not a racer so I don’t need to precisely match the cadence of the peloton. 
 More important for me is to have a wide range of gears. So for the rear, 
 I’m looking at the Shimano Acera HG41 8 Speed MTB Cassette, 
 11-13-15-17-20-23-26-34T. I like the 11T for fun downhill runs (I admit 
 that I don’t really NEED it). The 34T is so I can get my old body up over 
 the hill. I would only use it with the 24 up front for when I climb a 
 really nasty hill. The 8 tooth jump between 26 and 34 probably makes the 34 
 less than desirable for normal use, but that’s fine as I’ll reserve the 34T 
 for use only with the 24T front chainring as an “emergency wimp-out granny 
 gear”.

  

 For the front derailer I’m looking at the Riv recommended Shimano Deore 
 XT front derailer (FD-M781X6) – 17160 (Shimano's part number FD-M781X6 or 
 M781AX6L or M781AX6S). For the rear, I’m planning on the Riv recommended 
 Shimano Deore rear derailer – 17138, (RD M591 SGS). 

  

 1st Question: Are these the best derailer picks for my application, or 
 should I look at something else?

  

 2nd Question: I read that swapping the rear derailer pulleys is a good 
 thing for friction shifting because the wobble designed into the top pulley 
 (to make index shifting work) has a negative impact on friction shifting. 
 But then…I would be putting a wobbly pulley in the lower position (when a 
 non-wobbly pulley is called for). Should I just spring for another set of 
 pulleys (about $10) so I could put “lower pulleys” in both positions? Would 
 this avoid potential problems, or would I just be wasting money?

  

 Thanks,

 Doug Williams



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My 
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like 
a full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better 
friction shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most 
people report problems when friction shifting 9. But then I see the 9 
speed Shimano HG61 with bh-group sprocket teeth combination: 
12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. Hey...remove the 12, replace it with an 
11 (and an 11 lock ring) and you get 11-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. 
Since the 11 would just be my whoo hoo downhill gear I wouldn't mind 
the 3 tooth jump going from 14 to 11 while going down hill. If I can't 
get up the next hill with a 24 in front and a 36 in the rear (17.3 
gear inches with 650b)...well...let's not say it.


My goodness.  I see that cassette and I think how nice it would be to 
remove the 12 and replace it with a first position 13...  12's too high 
already, and what on earth would I do with an 11?



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[RBW] Super-fun Riv-Video and slick Saddlesack upgrade

2014-12-12 Thread Bill Lindsay
I had never noticed this product before: 

Hook-Cord Kit http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hookcordkit.htm

That's a slick upgrade for the Saddlesacks.  And they have a great video 
showing how to use it.  I'm going to buy that sheetmusic, too.  There are a 
couple glitches in the video editing where they forget to mute the 
background noise, so don't turn it up crazy loud on headphones.  

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[RBW] Re: Super-fun Riv-Video and slick Saddlesack upgrade

2014-12-12 Thread Matthew J
New to me too.

Probably also a good way to lash a rain jacket or other item you may want 
real quick on the ride outside the pack.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 3:14:55 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I had never noticed this product before: 

 Hook-Cord Kit http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hookcordkit.htm

 That's a slick upgrade for the Saddlesacks.  And they have a great video 
 showing how to use it.  I'm going to buy that sheetmusic, too.  There are a 
 couple glitches in the video editing where they forget to mute the 
 background noise, so don't turn it up crazy loud on headphones.  


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RE: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Doug Williams
Steve,

I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close together. I 
couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-) In any event, if 
you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only free one (not already 
attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to swap.

Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless. But toys 
are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet that I'm not 
going to. Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to reach a 
dangerous speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now. The 11 fills a 
niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill before I  stop spinning 
and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-)

Doug

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
 Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My 
 knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like 
 a full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better 
 friction shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most 
 people report problems when friction shifting 9. But then I see the 9 
 speed Shimano HG61 with bh-group sprocket teeth combination:
 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. Hey...remove the 12, replace it with an
 11 (and an 11 lock ring) and you get 11-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. 
 Since the 11 would just be my whoo hoo downhill gear I wouldn't mind 
 the 3 tooth jump going from 14 to 11 while going down hill. If I can't 
 get up the next hill with a 24 in front and a 36 in the rear (17.3 
 gear inches with 650b)...well...let's not say it.

My goodness.  I see that cassette and I think how nice it would be to remove 
the 12 and replace it with a first position 13...  12's too high already, and 
what on earth would I do with an 11?


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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch
I like it!  It looks like a cyclocross bike now.   



On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:28:43 PM UTC-6, jinxed wrote:

 Still trying to pound a square peg into the round hole, I can't leave well 
 enough alone.

 I sure hope this hits the spot. Being in between sizes stinks. The tire 
 width / brake combo I want just doesnt exist in a size I'm comfortable on. 
 So I decided to have cantis added to the Hilsen and try to ignore my fat 
 tire craving of the Atlantis. My friend Josh from Avery Co. Cycles did a 
 beautiful job with the brake bosses, and Spectrum Powderworks absolutely 
 floored me with the paint. I'm very happy with the improved braking and 
 feel of the cantis. Time will tell if my choice of this over an Atlantis 
 will pan out.

 It's nice...so I'm goin riding.

 Maybe the only canti Hilsen:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/15980402446/


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Bill Lindsay
It's true that if you max out at 100rpm for example, that your 46x12 has a 
max pedalling speed of about 30mph, but your 46x11 will allow you to pedal 
up to about 32mph.  

On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:38:48 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:

 Steve, 

 I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close 
 together. I couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-) 
 In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only 
 free one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to 
 swap. 

 Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless. But 
 toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet that 
 I'm not going to. Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to 
 reach a dangerous speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now. The 11 
 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill before I 
  stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-) 

 Doug 

 -Original Message- 
 From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar 
 Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM 
 To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: 
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again 

 On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote: 
  Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My 
  knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like 
  a full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better 
  friction shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most 
  people report problems when friction shifting 9. But then I see the 9 
  speed Shimano HG61 with bh-group sprocket teeth combination: 
  12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. Hey...remove the 12, replace it with an 
  11 (and an 11 lock ring) and you get 11-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. 
  Since the 11 would just be my whoo hoo downhill gear I wouldn't mind 
  the 3 tooth jump going from 14 to 11 while going down hill. If I can't 
  get up the next hill with a 24 in front and a 36 in the rear (17.3 
  gear inches with 650b)...well...let's not say it. 

 My goodness.  I see that cassette and I think how nice it would be to 
 remove the 12 and replace it with a first position 13...  12's too high 
 already, and what on earth would I do with an 11? 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Deacon Patrick
At 30+ mph, I just tuck and enjoy the ride! Of course on mountain passes 
that are miles long, those middling speeds are what you get in the flats 
while you coast as long as you can. Grin.

Doug, I nearly lost my mind on Sheldon's gear calculator figuring out how 
to gear my Quickbeam. Playing with 2x8 or 3x8 is cake! If you want to go 9 
speed, I think you'll be just fine. But learning to stand and pedal is a 
good thing too, and builds those knees so they work better longer. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, December 12, 2014 2:51:01 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 It's true that if you max out at 100rpm for example, that your 46x12 has a 
 max pedalling speed of about 30mph, but your 46x11 will allow you to pedal 
 up to about 32mph.  

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:38:48 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:

 Steve, 

 I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close 
 together. I couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-) 
 In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only 
 free one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to 
 swap. 

 Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless. 
 But toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet 
 that I'm not going to. Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough 
 to reach a dangerous speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now. The 
 11 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill before I 
  stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-) 

 Doug 

 -Original Message- 
 From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com] 
 On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar 
 Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM 
 To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again 

 On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote: 
  Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My 
  knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like 
  a full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better 
  friction shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most 
  people report problems when friction shifting 9. But then I see the 9 
  speed Shimano HG61 with bh-group sprocket teeth combination: 
  12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. Hey...remove the 12, replace it with an 
  11 (and an 11 lock ring) and you get 11-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36T. 
  Since the 11 would just be my whoo hoo downhill gear I wouldn't mind 
  the 3 tooth jump going from 14 to 11 while going down hill. If I can't 
  get up the next hill with a 24 in front and a 36 in the rear (17.3 
  gear inches with 650b)...well...let's not say it. 

 My goodness.  I see that cassette and I think how nice it would be to 
 remove the 12 and replace it with a first position 13...  12's too high 
 already, and what on earth would I do with an 11? 


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Re: [RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread Chris Chen
Funny enough I'm doing the same thing with my 57cm Hilsen

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 11:48 AM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 700c 57cm. My first Hilsen was a 59 and was just too big. I was running a
 60 stem and was still reaching. My sweet spot is 56cm, so even this is a
 little long. I'd love to try a 56 Atlantis with something like a big apple.

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:41:45 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 That's fantastic.  Is that a 700c 59cm Hilsen?

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito CA


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-- 
I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/12/2014 04:38 PM, Doug Williams wrote:

Steve,

I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close together. I 
couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-)


I have no difficulty at all telling the difference between 13-14-15, the 
three 1-tooth gaps on my 9 speed cassettes.  I don't think finesse has 
anything to do with it, but running at a typical 90 rpm or so cadence 
might do.  Also, riding in rolling countryside with many short dips and 
rises but virtually nothing even approaching a half-mile long descent 
does too.



In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only free 
one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to swap.


It is possible to remove the rivets or bolts or whatever that attach 
sprockets together, albeit with some difficulty.  I haven't seen one of 
those 12-36 cassettes, so I don't have any idea how it's made; the 
12-27s that form the basis for the custom 9s 13-30s I use have a couple 
of attached groups but also several loose sprockets.





Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless.


For me, worse than a toy: a spacer with teeth, and not useful for what 
passes for downhills where I ride.  By the time I've got a 48x13 
(i.e., 97-100 inches) spun up to around 120 rpm and I'm doing 34 or 35 
mph, in the terrain where I ride I'll have run out of descent and it's 
time to brace for the bridge and the expansion joints and approach the 
climb out of the stream gully and back to the level.  100 inches spun 
right up is very useful for that: lots of rpm to work with as you work 
your way down through the gears. Approach a descent like that in too big 
a gear and you'll have nothing at all to spend before it's time to start 
downshifting, and at very low rpms those downshifts are slower and more 
difficult than they need to be.



But toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet that 
I'm not going to.


So you are saying a 125 gear is fun somehow.  This I do not get. 
Where is the fun in a lumbering slow cadence?  That doesn't feel fast 
to me.




Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to reach a dangerous speed 
anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now.


Ah, Gravity: the Goddess I worship every time I go riding.  I have what 
is known as a Special Relationship with Gravity, and there are few who 
descend as quickly or get up to speed with the rapidity of a safe being 
pushed off the top of the Chrysler Building as do I.


As for reaching dangerous speeds, every few years Bike Virginia has 
taken me into mountainous terrain in the Appalachians.  I've learned 
that as soon as I begin to descend, my mental juke box starts playing 
the opening bars of The Wreck of Old 97...




The 11 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill before I  
stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-)


I'm surprised you can tolerate the enormous gap between the 11 and the 
14.  That's got to be around a 30 inch gap.


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[RBW] Selle Anatomica big sale (previously Struggling with my B-17's)

2014-12-12 Thread Montclair BobbyB
When asked for my opinion on saddles, I always give the same answer: 
Brooks...period. 

Then just yesterday I was looking for a particular color and style (that I 
wasn't so sure I could find in a Brooks), and stumbled on the SA web site, 
where they're offering big discounts (at least for 1 more day) on their 
saddles, for just $99.  I figured I'd like to give them a try, especially 
since I recently rode an old Avocet saddle on a long ride and it actually 
felt good (compared to my Brooks Conquest and Flyer, both too new and still 
breaking ME in...).  This made me wonder, perhaps I need to expand my 
thinking a bit on saddles.   

So I ordered 2 - the X and NSX, both rated to handle my Clydesdale-ness. 
 Based on many testimonials I understand the X (in particular) should sag 
and may require constant adjustment for a period of time, but eventually 
it's supposed to stop sagging... we'll see.

Admittedly I bought these saddles to achieve a particular look on 2 special 
project bikes (a 1983 Specialized Expedition touring bike and a 1980 
Raleigh Competition). I will be sure to weigh in with an opinion after a 
few rides on the SA saddles.

If you're considering the SA, hurry and check out the site ASAP... I think 
the sale ends today...

Peace,
BB




On Sunday, November 23, 2014 11:08:38 PM UTC-5, Don Compton wrote:

 I have finished my third ride on my Selle Anatomica X. I have had to 
 tighten the tensioner after each ride. But, I love this saddle. I have my 
 bars in a better position without all the crotch discomfort. On my Roadeo, 
 I will have to use their older long rail saddle and hopefully the rails 
 won't bend( I weigh about 170). I am going to buy another newer saddle for 
 my IF bike. I will use my old Titanio with the long rails on my Roadeo.
 Don

 On Monday, November 17, 2014 7:45:09 PM UTC-8, Don Compton wrote:

 I have been having the usual saddle problems with my B-17's. After 
 longterm breakin, the hump makes long rides impossible for me.
 I finally found a solution, the Selle Anatomica. It just works for me. At 
 2 weeks from 63yo, I just can't stand any saddle discomfort anymore. The 
 Anatomica has solved the problem. I sold all my Brooks and will never look 
 back.
 Don Compton



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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Patrick Moore
Just to toss more grit into the gears, Miche makes Shimano-compatible
outers (perhaps Campy ones too) up to 16. I run a 16-26 9 speed on my ram
(with compact 52/38 rings) (very nicely shifted with Silver dt levers
pulling a 7400 DA rd.

I've several times crammed a non-outer-position-specific 14 or 15 onto the
last mm of splines of a 8+ speed freehub body.

The jump between a 13 and a 14 with a 46 outer is about 8 gear inches;
plenty big enough for many to discern.

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 2:38 PM, Doug Williams 
salguod3791willi...@gmail.com wrote:

 Steve,

 I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close
 together. I couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-)
 In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only
 free one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to
 swap.

 Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless. But
 toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet that
 I'm not going to. Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to
 reach a dangerous speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now. The 11
 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill before I
 stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-)

 Doug

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Doug Williams
Steve,

Maybe I'm reading Sheldon's Gear Calculator incorrectly, but I get 108.7 
gear inches with 46x11 and 650b wheels. So yes...a little high, but not 
anything close to 125 (which I admit would be silly). Also, the 14 gives me 
85.4 gear inches, so the gap between 11 and 14 would be 23.3 gear inches, 
not 30. Maybe tough on level ground, but an easy shift when you are already 
going downhill. Again, the 11 is just a fun downhill gear for me and I'm 
going to shift back out of it well before the next hill.

In any event, you like close gears for a precise cadence and I like wide 
ranging gears to handle whatever comes my way. To each his own. I usually 
ride solo, and even in a group I'm not trying to hang on anybody's wheel. I 
have no need for a precise cadence. I usually spin about 90 and sometimes 
over 100. But I almost never spin 120. At 100 rpm, the 11T gives me 32.3 
MPH. Plenty fast enough, but not death defying. The Bike Snob defines Fred 
Whoo Hoo Speed as 46 MPH. No chance of me spinning ANY gear anywhere near 
that fast. :-)  Even without spinning, I wouldn't allow myself to coast 
that fast. I would definitely be on brakes well before Fred Whoo Hoo Speed.

Doug

On Friday, December 12, 2014 3:08:35 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 12/12/2014 04:38 PM, Doug Williams wrote: 
  Steve, 
  
  I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close 
 together. I couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-) 

 I have no difficulty at all telling the difference between 13-14-15, the 
 three 1-tooth gaps on my 9 speed cassettes.  I don't think finesse has 
 anything to do with it, but running at a typical 90 rpm or so cadence 
 might do.  Also, riding in rolling countryside with many short dips and 
 rises but virtually nothing even approaching a half-mile long descent 
 does too. 

  In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only 
 free one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to 
 swap. 

 It is possible to remove the rivets or bolts or whatever that attach 
 sprockets together, albeit with some difficulty.  I haven't seen one of 
 those 12-36 cassettes, so I don't have any idea how it's made; the 
 12-27s that form the basis for the custom 9s 13-30s I use have a couple 
 of attached groups but also several loose sprockets. 


  
  Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless. 

 For me, worse than a toy: a spacer with teeth, and not useful for what 
 passes for downhills where I ride.  By the time I've got a 48x13 
 (i.e., 97-100 inches) spun up to around 120 rpm and I'm doing 34 or 35 
 mph, in the terrain where I ride I'll have run out of descent and it's 
 time to brace for the bridge and the expansion joints and approach the 
 climb out of the stream gully and back to the level.  100 inches spun 
 right up is very useful for that: lots of rpm to work with as you work 
 your way down through the gears. Approach a descent like that in too big 
 a gear and you'll have nothing at all to spend before it's time to start 
 downshifting, and at very low rpms those downshifts are slower and more 
 difficult than they need to be. 

  But toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet 
 that I'm not going to. 

 So you are saying a 125 gear is fun somehow.  This I do not get. 
 Where is the fun in a lumbering slow cadence?  That doesn't feel fast 
 to me. 


  Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to reach a 
 dangerous speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now. 

 Ah, Gravity: the Goddess I worship every time I go riding.  I have what 
 is known as a Special Relationship with Gravity, and there are few who 
 descend as quickly or get up to speed with the rapidity of a safe being 
 pushed off the top of the Chrysler Building as do I. 

 As for reaching dangerous speeds, every few years Bike Virginia has 
 taken me into mountainous terrain in the Appalachians.  I've learned 
 that as soon as I begin to descend, my mental juke box starts playing 
 the opening bars of The Wreck of Old 97... 


  The 11 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill 
 before I  stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-) 

 I'm surprised you can tolerate the enormous gap between the 11 and the 
 14.  That's got to be around a 30 inch gap. 



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[RBW] Re: FS: Bags, Shifters

2014-12-12 Thread Michael Ullmer
HAR bags have been sold.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 9:19:14 AM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:

 HAR Bags in Olive - $110 shipped
 --I bought these a few months ago and have used them on about 3 rides. I'm 
 switching over to Swift Industries Short Stack bags and have no need for 
 these. They're in excellent shape. The only thing I did to them was cut 
 both of the Irish straps a bit shorter which you can see in the pictures. I 
 didn't like the extra strap dangling about.

 Suntour Accushift Barcons 7s - $40 shipped
 --Good shape, they work in both index and friction mode. I got these from 
 a used bike shop but never ended up using them myself. Everything works on 
 them as far as I can tell.

 Shimano 600 8-speed Downtube Shifters - $35 shipped
 --Good shape, I'm including both the flat and curved washers so that you 
 can use them as either downtube or thumb shifters.

 If you have any questions please e-mail me, thanks!

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/120703118@N08/sets/72157649310161459/
 Sorry for the awful photos!


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Patrick Moore
Gearing is almost as fun to calculate and talk about as to ride.

The jump between an 11 and a 14 (46 t ring -- I assume few on this list are
using 53s with any normal cassette) is 24. PDB. EDB would be the 28
between them using the 53.

I love gear fiddling. Even though I ride mostly fixed on road, and love it
best, and even though, when I ride multiple gear coasters, I use mostly the
70 and the 65 on road, the 64 and the 61 on our flat but sandy bosque
dirt (yes I can tell the 3.5 difference between my 17 and 18; the 61 is
very nice for a slightly lower dirt road gear when the sand is slightly
heavier) -- even given this, I know every single cog's gear inch equivalent
on all of my bikes. Even for hub geared bikes.

For almost 3 decades I've made my own gear charts, manually at first,
though now Excel makes it easier -- in almost 30 years of fretting about
gears I've rarely used a stock gearing combo.

My own penchant is for close ratios between (road) 60 and 75in rolling
terrain ABQ and adjacent Rio Rancho, NM), with the rest just gravy -- my
outer cogs frankly act as much as spacers, to get the cruising gears in the
middle, as they do for higher ratios. When you ride fixed so much, even
simple coasting is so much faster downhill.

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 4:08 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 12/12/2014 04:38 PM, Doug Williams wrote:

 Steve,

 I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close
 together. I couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-)


 I have no difficulty at all telling the difference between 13-14-15, the
 three 1-tooth gaps on my 9 speed cassettes.  I don't think finesse has
 anything to do with it, but running at a typical 90 rpm or so cadence might
 do.  Also, riding in rolling countryside with many short dips and rises but
 virtually nothing even approaching a half-mile long descent does too.

  In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only
 free one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to
 swap.


 It is possible to remove the rivets or bolts or whatever that attach
 sprockets together, albeit with some difficulty.  I haven't seen one of
 those 12-36 cassettes, so I don't have any idea how it's made; the 12-27s
 that form the basis for the custom 9s 13-30s I use have a couple of
 attached groups but also several loose sprockets.



 Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless.


 For me, worse than a toy: a spacer with teeth, and not useful for what
 passes for downhills where I ride.  By the time I've got a 48x13 (i.e.,
 97-100 inches) spun up to around 120 rpm and I'm doing 34 or 35 mph, in the
 terrain where I ride I'll have run out of descent and it's time to brace
 for the bridge and the expansion joints and approach the climb out of the
 stream gully and back to the level.  100 inches spun right up is very
 useful for that: lots of rpm to work with as you work your way down through
 the gears. Approach a descent like that in too big a gear and you'll have
 nothing at all to spend before it's time to start downshifting, and at very
 low rpms those downshifts are slower and more difficult than they need to
 be.

  But toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet
 that I'm not going to.


 So you are saying a 125 gear is fun somehow.  This I do not get. Where
 is the fun in a lumbering slow cadence?  That doesn't feel fast to me.


  Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to reach a dangerous
 speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now.


 Ah, Gravity: the Goddess I worship every time I go riding.  I have what is
 known as a Special Relationship with Gravity, and there are few who
 descend as quickly or get up to speed with the rapidity of a safe being
 pushed off the top of the Chrysler Building as do I.

 As for reaching dangerous speeds, every few years Bike Virginia has taken
 me into mountainous terrain in the Appalachians.  I've learned that as soon
 as I begin to descend, my mental juke box starts playing the opening bars
 of The Wreck of Old 97...


  The 11 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill
 before I  stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-)


 I'm surprised you can tolerate the enormous gap between the 11 and the
 14.  That's got to be around a 30 inch gap.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Patrick Moore
I meant to specify a nominally 27 700C wheel.

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:32 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Gearing is almost as fun to calculate and talk about as to ride.

 The jump between an 11 and a 14 (46 t ring -- I assume few on this list
 are using 53s with any normal cassette) is 24. PDB. EDB would be the 28
 between them using the 53.

 I love gear fiddling. Even though I ride mostly fixed on road, and love it
 best, and even though, when I ride multiple gear coasters, I use mostly the
 70 and the 65 on road, the 64 and the 61 on our flat but sandy bosque
 dirt (yes I can tell the 3.5 difference between my 17 and 18; the 61 is
 very nice for a slightly lower dirt road gear when the sand is slightly
 heavier) -- even given this, I know every single cog's gear inch equivalent
 on all of my bikes. Even for hub geared bikes.

 For almost 3 decades I've made my own gear charts, manually at first,
 though now Excel makes it easier -- in almost 30 years of fretting about
 gears I've rarely used a stock gearing combo.

 My own penchant is for close ratios between (road) 60 and 75in rolling
 terrain ABQ and adjacent Rio Rancho, NM), with the rest just gravy -- my
 outer cogs frankly act as much as spacers, to get the cruising gears in the
 middle, as they do for higher ratios. When you ride fixed so much, even
 simple coasting is so much faster downhill.

 On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 4:08 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 12/12/2014 04:38 PM, Doug Williams wrote:

 Steve,

 I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close
 together. I couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse.  :-)


 I have no difficulty at all telling the difference between 13-14-15, the
 three 1-tooth gaps on my 9 speed cassettes.  I don't think finesse has
 anything to do with it, but running at a typical 90 rpm or so cadence might
 do.  Also, riding in rolling countryside with many short dips and rises but
 virtually nothing even approaching a half-mile long descent does too.

  In any event, if you are going to replace a sprocket, the 12 is the only
 free one (not already attached to a group). So the 12 is the easy one to
 swap.


 It is possible to remove the rivets or bolts or whatever that attach
 sprockets together, albeit with some difficulty.  I haven't seen one of
 those 12-36 cassettes, so I don't have any idea how it's made; the 12-27s
 that form the basis for the custom 9s 13-30s I use have a couple of
 attached groups but also several loose sprockets.



 Yes, I admit that the 11 is only a downhill toy and otherwise useless.


 For me, worse than a toy: a spacer with teeth, and not useful for what
 passes for downhills where I ride.  By the time I've got a 48x13 (i.e.,
 97-100 inches) spun up to around 120 rpm and I'm doing 34 or 35 mph, in the
 terrain where I ride I'll have run out of descent and it's time to brace
 for the bridge and the expansion joints and approach the climb out of the
 stream gully and back to the level.  100 inches spun right up is very
 useful for that: lots of rpm to work with as you work your way down through
 the gears. Approach a descent like that in too big a gear and you'll have
 nothing at all to spend before it's time to start downshifting, and at very
 low rpms those downshifts are slower and more difficult than they need to
 be.

  But toys are toys and since I haven't grown up by now, it is a sure bet
 that I'm not going to.


 So you are saying a 125 gear is fun somehow.  This I do not get. Where
 is the fun in a lumbering slow cadence?  That doesn't feel fast to me.


  Fortunately, I'm too weak to spin the 11 fast enough to reach a
 dangerous speed anyway. Only gravity can do that for me now.


 Ah, Gravity: the Goddess I worship every time I go riding.  I have what
 is known as a Special Relationship with Gravity, and there are few who
 descend as quickly or get up to speed with the rapidity of a safe being
 pushed off the top of the Chrysler Building as do I.

 As for reaching dangerous speeds, every few years Bike Virginia has taken
 me into mountainous terrain in the Appalachians.  I've learned that as soon
 as I begin to descend, my mental juke box starts playing the opening bars
 of The Wreck of Old 97...


  The 11 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill
 before I  stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill.   :-)


 I'm surprised you can tolerate the enormous gap between the 11 and the
 14.  That's got to be around a 30 inch gap.


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[RBW] New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Kellie Stapleton


My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg

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Re: [RBW] New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread cyclotourist
One good lookin' bike, Kellie! Did you paint those lug windows or is it
like that straight outta' Walnut Creek?

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Kellie Stapleton 
kellie.staple...@gmail.com wrote:

 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg

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Re: [RBW] New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Kellie Stapleton
Nope, comes that way. 
On Dec 12, 2014, at 5:32 PM, cyclotourist wrote:

 One good lookin' bike, Kellie! Did you paint those lug windows or is it like 
 that straight outta' Walnut Creek?
 
 On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Kellie Stapleton 
 kellie.staple...@gmail.com wrote:
 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 Cheers,
 David
 
 Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
 
 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
 
 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread cyclotourist
Have to like that!

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:35 PM, Kellie Stapleton 
kellie.staple...@gmail.com wrote:

 Nope, comes that way.
 On Dec 12, 2014, at 5:32 PM, cyclotourist wrote:

 One good lookin' bike, Kellie! Did you paint those lug windows or is it
 like that straight outta' Walnut Creek?

 On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Kellie Stapleton 
 kellie.staple...@gmail.com wrote:

 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg


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 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal




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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Deacon Patrick
Wow. Stunning! Beautiful build, and I love those Paul brakes. I love that 
color.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread 'Jay B' via RBW Owners Bunch
great choice of color Brad!  wow.  

Josh is a great guy.  I talked to him about brazing some useful bits onto 
my Bleriot a couple of summers ago, but decided to sleep on it.   I hope to 
get him to add them when we move back to CO this summer.  

hope you enjoy the ahh2.0

-Jay B.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 1:28:43 PM UTC-6, jinxed wrote:

 Still trying to pound a square peg into the round hole, I can't leave well 
 enough alone.

 I sure hope this hits the spot. Being in between sizes stinks. The tire 
 width / brake combo I want just doesnt exist in a size I'm comfortable on. 
 So I decided to have cantis added to the Hilsen and try to ignore my fat 
 tire craving of the Atlantis. My friend Josh from Avery Co. Cycles did a 
 beautiful job with the brake bosses, and Spectrum Powderworks absolutely 
 floored me with the paint. I'm very happy with the improved braking and 
 feel of the cantis. Time will tell if my choice of this over an Atlantis 
 will pan out.

 It's nice...so I'm goin riding.

 Maybe the only canti Hilsen:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/15980402446/


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Re: [RBW] Re: New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Kellie Stapleton
Thanks Patrick. I gave my Hillborne to my daughter; she got the Rivendell bug. 
But she deserves a great bike; she rode from Santa Cruz to New Orleans last 
Jan. I suspect she's got some more trips up her sleeve! But I love the Cheviot 
(especially this color). It feels a little zippier than the Hilborne. Maybe my 
imagination.
On Dec 12, 2014, at 5:40 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Wow. Stunning! Beautiful build, and I love those Paul brakes. I love that 
 color.
 
 With abandon,
 Patrick
 
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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Bill Lindsay
So nice.  How about a full-body shot?  I especially like your reflection in 
the new bell.  

On Friday, December 12, 2014 5:29:08 PM UTC-8, Kellie Stapleton wrote:

 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg



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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch
Thanks Jay. Yea, Josh is making some really incredible bikes. I'm thankful 
he was available to do it, and was instrumental in my decision to go 
forward with it.

THIS was my inspiration for the color. Hard to go wrong with Porsche 365 
Speedster Aquamarine. 
http://ekhatch.files.wordpress.com/2010/01/356-outlaw.jpeg

I like the two tone jobs on some bikes, but this sure came out sexy and 
understated.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 6:47:54 PM UTC-7, Jay B wrote:

 great choice of color Brad!  wow.  

 Josh is a great guy.  I talked to him about brazing some useful bits onto 
 my Bleriot a couple of summers ago, but decided to sleep on it.   I hope to 
 get him to add them when we move back to CO this summer.  

 hope you enjoy the ahh2.0

 -Jay B.




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[RBW] Re: The Canti Hilsen.

2014-12-12 Thread Ikky
For those of us considering a Hilsen, what's your PBH / actual height? Hi 
by the way.

On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:48:50 PM UTC+1, jinxed wrote:

 700c 57cm. My first Hilsen was a 59 and was just too big. I was running a 
 60 stem and was still reaching. My sweet spot is 56cm, so even this is a 
 little long. I'd love to try a 56 Atlantis with something like a big apple.

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:41:45 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 That's fantastic.  Is that a 700c 59cm Hilsen?  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito CA




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[RBW] Re: Longshot Want-To-Trade: My Paul Touring Cantilevers for your Shimano CX70s

2014-12-12 Thread 'wgws' via RBW Owners Bunch
Against my interest b/c I'd be interested in buying these if they are the 
high polish silvers (sent you a pm) but I've dealt with this exact issuing 
by simply flipping the thinline pads, so the short end is next to the 
fork/seatstays.  Never had any noticeable difference in braking power. 
 However I have heard from others that the braking power on the CX70's 
isn't as good as the Pauls.  But can't verify that, never ridden the CX70's.

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 1:31:05 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I'd like to try out a set of cantilevers that were designed to clear the 
 fork blades and seatstays completely when quick released open.  The ones 
 Rivendell sells are the Shimano CX70.  I have a set of decidedly used 
 silver Paul Touring Cantilevers to offer in trade, before I go hit the 
 buy button.  Let me know if you are looking to swap out and get more 
 MUSA.  


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[RBW] Friction shifting and pulleys again

2014-12-12 Thread Jonathan Shinefeld
Hey Doug, I run the same cassette and crankset with an inexpensive SRAM 5 
something on my 650b Rambouillet. The original 105 front derailer works great 
and I hardly use it.  Rear shifting happens with a silver shifter on a Paul 
thumbie mounted on the handlebar. A silver shifter on the down tube takes care 
of the front.  This setup works well for commuting and city riding. 
Jon in Philly

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[RBW] Re: WTT: 700 x 50 Schwalbe Big Ben for 26 x 2.35 Big Bens

2014-12-12 Thread Arthur Mayfield
I have a brand new set of Schwalbe Cream Fat Franks (26 x 2.35) that I'd 
like to get rid of (too big for both of my 26 inchers), but I don't need 
your 700's.

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 11:21:29 AM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:

 Just wondering if anyone would like to swap? My set has less than a mile 
 on them. They were installed, ridden around the block and then removed when 
 a bike was sold.


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[RBW] FS: VO Baguette handlebar bag, plus sleeping bag liner and handlebars

2014-12-12 Thread Shawn Granton
Hey all-


I've got a few bike/camping things up for sale. Payment via PayPal. Contact 
me off-list if you want.

   - VO Baguette Bag: $25 shipped in the US
   - Cocoon Microfiber sleeping bag liner: $15 shipped in the US
   

Buy both of the above for $35 shipped. Details here:
http://urbanadventureleague.wordpress.com/2014/12/12/stuff-for-sale-update-handlebar-bag-and-bag-liner-still-available/

Also, for Portland pick-up only, a set of well-loved Civia Dupont 
handlebars for only $10. These aluminum bars are 600 mm wide with a 65 deg 
bend. Comparable to Nitto Albatross bars, but slightly wider than the Albas 
and feature a more straight-back hand grip position. 25.4 mm clamp, and 
diameter 22.2 mm so will take mountain bike brake levers and shifters. I've 
had these for two years and there's nothing wrong with them, but show 
scratches, and there's still some double-sided tape in the grip areas that 
I'm too lazy to strip the tape right now, but that's why I'm only charging 
$10. (These retail at $55, but it appears that Civia/QBP has discontinued 
this model.) See pics included.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nPQQ75-lPSA/VIu6834DzgI/AOs/Ba5dQEPdNME/s1600/civiadupont1.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cprHqIu0JOE/VIu7AlJrw3I/AO0/UUaaWreGX3w/s1600/civiadupont2.jpg

thank you,
Shawn

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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Kellie Stapleton
Full body shot on the way. You must have enlarged the photo and if you did 
you can see 1 bike hanging and 3 on the floor in the reflection. We like 
bikes!

On Friday, December 12, 2014 6:43:04 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 So nice.  How about a full-body shot?  I especially like your reflection 
 in the new bell.  

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 5:29:08 PM UTC-8, Kellie Stapleton wrote:

 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg



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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot

2014-12-12 Thread Montclair BobbyB
VERY NICE!


*Chevi - Like a Riv...(Bob Seeger playing in the background...) *
On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:29:08 PM UTC-5, Kellie Stapleton wrote:

 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg



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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto, Sackville, Swift, Edelux, Ortlieb, Dyanamo Wheelset, etc

2014-12-12 Thread Scot Brooks
Everything just went down in price by $10. 

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[RBW] Re: Baltimore, MD to Scranton,PA ride planning...

2014-12-12 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Hey, Bobby Montclair here... 

True, the East Coast Greenway would be less direct, and add significant 
miles but it's a defined, formal route, and likely an interesting one 
(albeit in a kind of urban, kludgy, gritty way), some of it follows 
dedicated trail; some over designated roads.  Once you reach Philadelphia 
(110 miles from Baltimore) the route pretty much follows the Delaware River 
another 140 miles (through the town of Lambertville where I currently live) 
to Milford PA, some 60 miles East of Scranton.  So adding up the miles 
(approx 310 total?) and grouping them into reasonable biking segments,you'd 
be looking at a 2-day ride from Baltimore to Lambertville, then another 2 
days to Scranton.  If you follow a more direct route (approx 220 miles), 
you could try to squeeze it into 2 days, although 3 sounds more realistic. 
 Should you decide to pass through Lambertville, I'd be happy to at least 
provide you with a bed and a decent meal for an evening. 

If I had the extra time to spend, I'd take the ECG route; otherwise I'd 
expect the semi-rural direct route up through Maryland and Pennsylvania to 
be quite beautiful.  Whichever you decide, good luck!

Peace,
Bobby Birmingham (aka MontclairBobbyB)

On Friday, December 12, 2014 11:30:55 AM UTC-5, Bikie#4646 wrote:

 It could take you a little longer, but if you want to get off the road for 
 a bit, the Delaware Water Gap Recreational Area is nice. The Old Mine Road 
 is on the NJ side of the Delaware River and the (recommended by me) McDade 
 Rec.Trail on the PA side will take you north from the little township of 
 Delaware Water Gap on I-80 to Milford, PA on I-84, east of Scranton. PA 
 Route 6 east can be accessed there and I think it is a designated bike 
 route. I'm from VA, so you'd need more onto on that. The hgwy is not 
 west-coast standards for shoulders, but it could work. I'll bet Bobby 
 Montclair in NJ could verify. There are a lot of rail trails, etc. on the 
 NJ side of the river, but most likely just a bit too far east for you?

 Paul Germain,
 Midlothian, Va

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 12:55:56 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:

 You Rivfolks do some long distance rando riding, touring, campling, etc...

 What's the best way to plan a long ride like this from Baltimore, MD to 
 Scranton, PA?

 Any east coasters know some bike friendly routes?

 I've only done a few centuriesin the last year and a half, so don't know 
 if I would be able to handle a double century going to Scranton, as its 200 
 miles. Maybe layover at a motel one night and travel the rest the next day. 
 Don't know how tough back to back centuries are for a commuter and 
 recreational century and half century rider like me when I am in shape in 
 the spring and summer and fall.

 Bike friendly routes would be the most important thing, I think. I know 
 there is a MUP that runs from Baltimore to York, PA, so maybe that is a 
 start.

 Don't know if I'd even dare to do this, but it would be fun and 
 memorable. So I'm looking into it to see if it even seems realistic for me.



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