Re: [RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[Garth]

Formulas ?  I know of none that are absolutely true, and if it is not àbsolute 
it is null.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[David Craig]

Thank you for your kind words, Ryan.

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 2:43:26 PM UTC-8, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Dear Dave
>
> Sorry to hear this. I hope the bike goes to a really good home with 
> minimal hassle to yourself. Bikes are a huge part of my life as well, and I 
> would be in agony too, when the time comes to let go of them .For now I 
> treasure the time I still have left to enjoy them. Best wishes for your 
> sabbatical
>
> On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:55:18 PM UTC-6, David Craig wrote:
>>
>> I'm going to do as a couple of you suggested and investigate how I can 
>> responsibly ship the bike given my current situation. I'm moving in a week, 
>> and all of the tools I've used to ship bikes in the past are in storage. 
>> Perhaps I'll see if the folks at RBW might be able to pack and ship the 
>> bike for me. I've got a pretty high standard for shipping expensive bikes 
>> and I've never seen anyone else match the perfection of their packing.
>>
>> Most importantly, this particular bike is pretty hard to let go of as 
>> it's my last Riv (I've had 4), and it represents letting go of much more 
>> than the physical possession. Bikes have been a big part of my identity for 
>> much of my life. I'm pretty tough, but disassembling and packing the bike 
>> would be agonizingly painful.
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 1:48:59 PM UTC-8, David Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey, Folks.
>>>
>>> Haven't posted for quite awhile. I've been on a medically prompted 
>>> hiatus from cycling for the past couple of years. The wife and I will be 
>>> hitting the road in a couple of weeks for a year long sabbatical, and I've 
>>> decided to pass on my HH to somebody who might be able to use it rather 
>>> than store it.
>>>
>>> The bike is in great condition - pictured here: 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/albums/72157626013424216
>>>
>>> Couple of changes from the picture - the bike no longer has a leather 
>>> seat and it now sports a 7cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem instead of the 
>>> riser - otherwise, it's the same bike pictured.
>>>
>>> I can provide detailed photos and build info to interested buyers. I'm 
>>> looking for $1500.00 OBO for the entire bike. Quite a deal, but you'd need 
>>> to be able to pick the bike up in central California. I don't have the time 
>>> to ship it. I'm located in the Gold County near Yosemite and I'd be willing 
>>> to drive to a couple of hours from here to deliver the bike.
>>>
>>> I've sold several items to list members over the years, so I believe 
>>> I've got a good reputation as a straight shooter and honest guy. 
>>>
>>> Remember, please reply via a PM instead of through the list. I'll get 
>>> back to you ASAP.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Zed Martinez]

>
>
> - WTH are 'Kwik Bitumen' tires? Extra points for getting 'bitumen' on a 
> sidewall!
>
>
>
Kenda Kwik Bitumens? They're like Schwalbe's Delta Cruiser commuter tires, 
is my impression. One of my boss's Cannondale Quick wears them too, so, 
Riv's not the only one speccing them. Nothing special, but they're not 
Cheng Shins 
either. 
http://bicycle.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/bicycle/commuter/kwick-bitumen/

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Re: [RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[Jim Bronson]

Mine is the exact opposite, my knees feel best on 170s but they feel
inefficient to me as I'm 6'7".  I settled on 175s.  Used to ride 180+ when
I was younger but alas my knees don't agree with the longer cranks anymore.
On Feb 25, 2016 9:05 AM, "Michael Hechmer"  wrote:

> Really, interesting post.  I'll need more time to study it but would like
> to offer one observation, that has lead me to hesitate in buying a pair of
> these (besides not parting with the  considerable amount of cash).  I agree
> that I can not tell the difference between cranks 3mm or shorter and have
> always ridden 175 & 172.5 without distinction; but when I go to 170 I am
> prone to some knee pain after about two hours of riding.  So, would I know
> the difference in a 171; I don't know, but it still feels like a big gap
> between 171 & 177.
>
> Wouldn't 171, 175, 179 be a bit more forgiving.  Of course the dye is
> cast, so to speak.
>
> Michael
>
> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 9:38:27 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where
>> Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass
>> cranks and what is involved.
>>
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[Daniel Jackson]

Is there a rule of thumb to guide crank length choice?

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 10:14:21 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I swapped the 170s on the Fargo for 172.5s, and I don't think I notice any 
> difference. But when I had 175s on an erstwhile Diamondback, with a fiddly 
> 60" fixed gear (meant for off road) pedaling on flats was truly horrible. I 
> switched to 170s things were far better. Same Pro 5 Vis crank model and 
> same Phil bb. I later raised the gi to 64", which made the bike even better.
>
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 8:05 AM, Michael Hechmer  > wrote:
>
>> Really, interesting post.  I'll need more time to study it but would like 
>> to offer one observation, that has lead me to hesitate in buying a pair of 
>> these (besides not parting with the  considerable amount of cash).  I agree 
>> that I can not tell the difference between cranks 3mm or shorter and have 
>> always ridden 175 & 172.5 without distinction; but when I go to 170 I am 
>> prone to some knee pain after about two hours of riding.  So, would I know 
>> the difference in a 171; I don't know, but it still feels like a big gap 
>> between 171 & 177.
>>
>> Wouldn't 171, 175, 179 be a bit more forgiving.  Of course the dye is 
>> cast, so to speak.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 9:38:27 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>>>
>>> A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where 
>>> Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass 
>>> cranks and what is involved.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/
>>>
>>> Enjoy!
>>>
>>> Jan Heine
>>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>>> www.compasscycle.com
>>>
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>
>
>
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> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Patrick Kelly]

I think those blug photos make the dirty banana color (my name for
their "mustard") look much darker than it actually is. If you check my
photos from when I took a test ride
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/phlatphrog/albums/72157663735364022)
you can see a range of light/dark. I think the photos where the bike
is in direct sunlight actually give a better impression of the actual
color.

I haven't seen the "blue" in person, so I'm wondering if it's actually
even brighter than it seems in these blug photos...


On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 3:42 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:
> @ Kieran:
> Those are jokingly called "dork discs". But I think they are great for
> protecting spokes. Very functional. But I would only want a clear one on my
> bike.
>
> As for the colors, I like both. Though I will say that I think an earthy
> color matches the name "Appaloosa" better than the light blue. When I think
> Appaloosa I think horse and grass and dirt and earthy colors.
>
> Congrats to all who got one! I am sure they are among the best bikes in the
> world.
>
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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Lungimsam]

@ Kieran:
Those are jokingly called "dork discs". But I think they are great for 
protecting spokes. Very functional. But I would only want a clear one on my 
bike.

As for the colors, I like both. Though I will say that I think an earthy 
color matches the name "Appaloosa" better than the light blue. When I think 
Appaloosa I think horse and grass and dirt and earthy colors.

Congrats to all who got one! I am sure they are among the best bikes in the 
world.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Baggins Hobo and Boxy Bags

['frank_a' via RBW Owners Bunch]

UPDATE:
Carradice Zipped Roll has been sold.

 - Frank

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:55:43 PM UTC-5, frank_a wrote:
>
>  Hi All,
> All I ever use is a Candy bar Bag and small saddle pouch so these are up 
> for sale:
>
> Baggins Hobo bag in nice condition. I always wanted one of these, bought 
> it a while ago but still haven't used it.
> $85, shipped (CONUS)
>
> Baggins Boxy Bag with Nitto rack. Looks used and sort of rough, has a 
> small area where the leather binding has come away from the fabric but it's 
> a well made bag and works fine. Looks cool too!. I'll include plastic 
> stiffeners for the back and sides.
> $95, shipped (CONUS)
>
> Carradice Zipped Roll. Nice shape. The seams look worse in the photos that 
> they really are, they are solid.
> $35, shipped (CONUS)
>
>  Please look the photos over and let me know if interested, . Paypal is 
> best.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/8531240@N06/albums/72157664321406299
>
>  Thanks,
>  - Frank
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Belopsky]

wow they look great. if i could sell 2 bikes i'd buy it!

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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[William R.]

Sounds good. I've got similar plans for orange Newbaums. And a new Brooks B17 
for it too! I wonder which length cranks will come on my 58. I'm not too picky 
tho, I've got 171 Herse's one one bike and 175s on the other two...

Sounds like you will get yours sooner. If you stop riding, please remember to 
snap some pics for us still waiting for ours out there.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Bill Lindsay]

I am pretty pumped as well.  I'm elated that I chose the mustard for 
myself.  It's definitely the better color for me.  I've got a worn in Honey 
Brooks B-17 and I'll be wrapping the forward parts of the Choco-moose with 
Yellow Newbaums, and then doing as many coats of Amber shellac as it takes 
to get the tape and the saddle in the same range.  

I was hoping that my 55 single TT would come with 173mm crankarms, because 
I'm kind of a 172.5mm zealot.  When I called to ask about it, they said the 
55s will come with 170mm arms, so I might end up swapping cranks with 
another bike.  I'm a local, so I'll get to pick it up in person.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 4:13:43 PM UTC-8, William R. wrote:
>
> Woot! Woot! They arrived a few days early. I think that what they seem to 
> now be calling dark mustard looks gorgeous. Can't wait to receive my 
> pre-ordered 58. Love how the frame pump fits snug between the two top 
> tubes. I will be holding on to those tires for future fendered tours. But 
> I've got a pair of lite skin thunder Burts that I will be mounting up. 
> Stoked!
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[William R.]

Woot! Woot! They arrived a few days early. I think that what they seem to now 
be calling dark mustard looks gorgeous. Can't wait to receive my pre-ordered 
58. Love how the frame pump fits snug between the two top tubes. I will be 
holding on to those tires for future fendered tours. But I've got a pair of 
lite skin thunder Burts that I will be mounting up. Stoked!

Bill in Westchester, NY

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

[Patrick Moore]

But could you see forward?

My daughter had a 24" wheel Townie 3i or somesuch, and it was a
surprisingly comfortable ride -- hard to stand and pedal, though.

On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 2:55 PM, Hunter Harr 
wrote:

> Bike handled fine, but was not fast, but very relaxed.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 12:19:47 PM UTC-5, John Phillips wrote:
>>
>> Hi,  I was looking at Google photos of bikes with porteur racks, and I
>> noticed that most bikes had un-Riv-like lower handlebars, placing the
>> handle bars closer to the rack and the load.
>>
>> On the Riv staff bike webpage, Sean & Jenny have their handle bars set
>> closer to their porteur racks as well.
>>
>> Does anyone on the list use a large basket and/or porteur rack, and how
>> do you like to set up your handlebars in relation to your front load?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>>
>>
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**
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world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] Re: Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Kieran J]

Wut is up with that big goofball spoke protector on the rear hub? Is Riv 
just inching closer and closer to being a cruiser bike company?

Kwik Bitumen.. conjures "Keystone Kruiser XL" and "Tarsander" as possible 
alternates.

KJ



On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 6:45:47 PM UTC-5, Neil wrote:
>
> Just saw photos of the complete Joe Appaloosas on the BLUG, and I has 
> thoughts...
>
> - Blue n' cream is gorgeous! Maybe I'm biased cuz it resembles my Sam.
> - Mustard is pretty fugly to me, but I remember liking it in person.
> - I like the fork. A lot.
> - I'm glad I don't own a bike with two top tubes.
> - That Silver crank set tho! I like. Somehow looks more 'industrial' than 
> the Sugino.
> - WTH are 'Kwik Bitumen' tires? Extra points for getting 'bitumen' on a 
> sidewall!
>
> Congrats to all those eagerly awaiting arrival of their new bikes!
>

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[RBW] Joes are in, photos on da BLUG

[Neil]

Just saw photos of the complete Joe Appaloosas on the BLUG, and I has 
thoughts...

- Blue n' cream is gorgeous! Maybe I'm biased cuz it resembles my Sam.
- Mustard is pretty fugly to me, but I remember liking it in person.
- I like the fork. A lot.
- I'm glad I don't own a bike with two top tubes.
- That Silver crank set tho! I like. Somehow looks more 'industrial' than 
the Sugino.
- WTH are 'Kwik Bitumen' tires? Extra points for getting 'bitumen' on a 
sidewall!

Congrats to all those eagerly awaiting arrival of their new bikes!

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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[Ryan Fleming]

Dear Dave

Sorry to hear this. I hope the bike goes to a really good home with minimal 
hassle to yourself. Bikes are a huge part of my life as well, and I would 
be in agony too, when the time comes to let go of them .For now I treasure 
the time I still have left to enjoy them. Best wishes for your sabbatical

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 7:55:18 PM UTC-6, David Craig wrote:
>
> I'm going to do as a couple of you suggested and investigate how I can 
> responsibly ship the bike given my current situation. I'm moving in a week, 
> and all of the tools I've used to ship bikes in the past are in storage. 
> Perhaps I'll see if the folks at RBW might be able to pack and ship the 
> bike for me. I've got a pretty high standard for shipping expensive bikes 
> and I've never seen anyone else match the perfection of their packing.
>
> Most importantly, this particular bike is pretty hard to let go of as it's 
> my last Riv (I've had 4), and it represents letting go of much more than 
> the physical possession. Bikes have been a big part of my identity for much 
> of my life. I'm pretty tough, but disassembling and packing the bike would 
> be agonizingly painful.
>
> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 1:48:59 PM UTC-8, David Craig wrote:
>>
>> Hey, Folks.
>>
>> Haven't posted for quite awhile. I've been on a medically prompted hiatus 
>> from cycling for the past couple of years. The wife and I will be hitting 
>> the road in a couple of weeks for a year long sabbatical, and I've decided 
>> to pass on my HH to somebody who might be able to use it rather than store 
>> it.
>>
>> The bike is in great condition - pictured here: 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/albums/72157626013424216
>>
>> Couple of changes from the picture - the bike no longer has a leather 
>> seat and it now sports a 7cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem instead of the 
>> riser - otherwise, it's the same bike pictured.
>>
>> I can provide detailed photos and build info to interested buyers. I'm 
>> looking for $1500.00 OBO for the entire bike. Quite a deal, but you'd need 
>> to be able to pick the bike up in central California. I don't have the time 
>> to ship it. I'm located in the Gold County near Yosemite and I'd be willing 
>> to drive to a couple of hours from here to deliver the bike.
>>
>> I've sold several items to list members over the years, so I believe I've 
>> got a good reputation as a straight shooter and honest guy. 
>>
>> Remember, please reply via a PM instead of through the list. I'll get 
>> back to you ASAP.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>

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[RBW] FS - Nitto 32F mini front rack

['Bikie#4646' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Another part from my recent frame set sale:
*http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r2.htm*
$140 at Rivendell, asking $95, plus shipping. Paypal or check.

Paul Germain
Midlothian, Va.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Could the end be near? Spring and happy Phil pawls

[Ryan Fleming]

yeah...I lied $515 on Riv site. But I like White industries because I also 
have their ENO SS freewheel on my PX-10 and I love it...got it because the 
inexpensive SS freewheels  were noisy and felt sloppy and it seems like 
it's ready to survive the apocalypse. And I like nice hubs, and the WI's 
 in silver will be pretty I think.  

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 3:16:38 PM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Hi Ryan,
>
> It is the cassette version... and it definitely was hideously expensive. 
> Thankfully I got a big time break from the shop in exchange for some other 
> services. The White hubs are gorgeous to though. I've never owned white 
> hubs, but do have their ENO freewheel which has been bombproof for years 
> now. It gets the worst treatment of anything I've got - rain and snow and 
> slush all the time. Keeps on tickin. I'd be very keen on using them over 
> Phil next time it comes up.
>
> That said, the new Shimano freehub sounds very appealing. Have you read 
> about it? It's basically a reverse Chris King concept. A ratchet ring but 
> the spring pulls them apart when you cost, and together when you pedal, 
> meaning you have a dead silent wheel while coasting. No constant wear and 
> tear. I think they come out next year in either XTR or DuraAce first.
>
> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 3:12:42 PM UTC-6, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>
>> Hiya Mark
>>
>>
>> Just a quick question...your Phil hub is a free hub, not the hideously 
>> expensive (595.00 US$) cassette version, right? Which I was briefly 
>> considering for my mixte until I looked at the price  and  Mark at Riv 
>> suggested that the White industries M15's would be the way to go if I must 
>> have bling...yes I must.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 11:43:24 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Yup, totally agree. Even in summer I had occasional sticking using 
>>> tenacious oil. Since running into this issue, I've learned of two others 
>>> with the identical problem. One locally, one from Colarado. I'm just glad 
>>> it's working well now :)
>>>
>>> On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 11:25 AM, dougP  wrote:
>>>
 "For reference, the factory supplied Phil Wood pawl lube is a mix of 
 something around 9 parts tenacious oil to 1 part phil grease."'

 Phil's Tenacious is quite thick even in moderate temps.  No wonder it's 
 problematic under your temp conditions.  Throw in some grease for 
 stickiness & voila, sticking pawls.  I've used Phil's Tenacious in 
 freehubs 
 & have one with over 50,000 miles on it that still works fine.  I never 
 guessed one could last so long & just wondering how long it will go.  

 dougP


 On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 7:16:54 AM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Agreed re: TriFlow as a winter-only oil. It's been in there a couple 
> weeks now and the hub has never ran so nicely. I'll open it up later this 
> week and see how things are looking inside. 
>
> The 10w-40 oil was something I started using in the fall, so it was 
> too heavy even in near-freezing temperatures. Pretty surprising how 
> sensitive this freehub is to viscosity. A lower synthetic oil is a good 
> idea though. 
>
> For reference, the factory supplied Phil Wood pawl lube is a mix of 
> something around 9 parts tenacious oil to 1 part phil grease. 
>
> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 8:40:54 AM UTC-6, Brian Campbell wrote:
>>
>> I was wondering if a 50/50 split of 5w30 motor oil and Automatic 
>> Transmission fluid would do it?
>>
>> On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 8:54:17 PM UTC-5, Bill M. wrote:
>>>
>>> At temperatures that low, the pour point of the lubricant would 
>>> start to matter.  Phil Tenacious Oil is probably molasses at -40.  I 
>>> can't 
>>> find detailed specs for Tri Flow, but the MSDS says its flash point is 
>>> pretty low (170 degrees), indicating a fair portion of it is pretty 
>>> light 
>>> oil so it probably does flow at a low temperature.  Sewing machine oils 
>>> or 
>>> 3-in-One would perform similarly.  
>>>
>>> I'm not a huge fan of using motor oil outside of engines, but you 
>>> could go to a 0W-20 synthetic motor oil to get a very low pour point.  
>>> Synthetic oils have an inherently high viscosity index, which means 
>>> they 
>>> don't change viscosity with temperature as much as mineral oils.  That 
>>> same 
>>> property would help maintain lubrication film strength when the weather 
>>> warms up.  
>>>
>>> If you stick with Tri Flow, consider using it as a winter-only oil, 
>>> and relubricating with something a bit heavier for the warm months.  No 
>>> sense wearing out an expensive hub prematurely. 
>>>
>>> Bill
>>> Stockton, CA
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:05:09 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer 
>>> wrote:

Re: [RBW] Re: Could the end be near? Spring and happy Phil pawls

[Mark Reimer]

Hi Ryan,

It is the cassette version... and it definitely was hideously expensive. 
Thankfully I got a big time break from the shop in exchange for some other 
services. The White hubs are gorgeous to though. I've never owned white 
hubs, but do have their ENO freewheel which has been bombproof for years 
now. It gets the worst treatment of anything I've got - rain and snow and 
slush all the time. Keeps on tickin. I'd be very keen on using them over 
Phil next time it comes up.

That said, the new Shimano freehub sounds very appealing. Have you read 
about it? It's basically a reverse Chris King concept. A ratchet ring but 
the spring pulls them apart when you cost, and together when you pedal, 
meaning you have a dead silent wheel while coasting. No constant wear and 
tear. I think they come out next year in either XTR or DuraAce first.

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 3:12:42 PM UTC-6, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Hiya Mark
>
>
> Just a quick question...your Phil hub is a free hub, not the hideously 
> expensive (595.00 US$) cassette version, right? Which I was briefly 
> considering for my mixte until I looked at the price  and  Mark at Riv 
> suggested that the White industries M15's would be the way to go if I must 
> have bling...yes I must.
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 11:43:24 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Yup, totally agree. Even in summer I had occasional sticking using 
>> tenacious oil. Since running into this issue, I've learned of two others 
>> with the identical problem. One locally, one from Colarado. I'm just glad 
>> it's working well now :)
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 11:25 AM, dougP  wrote:
>>
>>> "For reference, the factory supplied Phil Wood pawl lube is a mix of 
>>> something around 9 parts tenacious oil to 1 part phil grease."'
>>>
>>> Phil's Tenacious is quite thick even in moderate temps.  No wonder it's 
>>> problematic under your temp conditions.  Throw in some grease for 
>>> stickiness & voila, sticking pawls.  I've used Phil's Tenacious in freehubs 
>>> & have one with over 50,000 miles on it that still works fine.  I never 
>>> guessed one could last so long & just wondering how long it will go.  
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 7:16:54 AM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Agreed re: TriFlow as a winter-only oil. It's been in there a couple 
 weeks now and the hub has never ran so nicely. I'll open it up later this 
 week and see how things are looking inside. 

 The 10w-40 oil was something I started using in the fall, so it was too 
 heavy even in near-freezing temperatures. Pretty surprising how sensitive 
 this freehub is to viscosity. A lower synthetic oil is a good idea though. 

 For reference, the factory supplied Phil Wood pawl lube is a mix of 
 something around 9 parts tenacious oil to 1 part phil grease. 

 On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 8:40:54 AM UTC-6, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> I was wondering if a 50/50 split of 5w30 motor oil and Automatic 
> Transmission fluid would do it?
>
> On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 8:54:17 PM UTC-5, Bill M. wrote:
>>
>> At temperatures that low, the pour point of the lubricant would start 
>> to matter.  Phil Tenacious Oil is probably molasses at -40.  I can't 
>> find 
>> detailed specs for Tri Flow, but the MSDS says its flash point is pretty 
>> low (170 degrees), indicating a fair portion of it is pretty light oil 
>> so 
>> it probably does flow at a low temperature.  Sewing machine oils or 
>> 3-in-One would perform similarly.  
>>
>> I'm not a huge fan of using motor oil outside of engines, but you 
>> could go to a 0W-20 synthetic motor oil to get a very low pour point.  
>> Synthetic oils have an inherently high viscosity index, which means they 
>> don't change viscosity with temperature as much as mineral oils.  That 
>> same 
>> property would help maintain lubrication film strength when the weather 
>> warms up.  
>>
>> If you stick with Tri Flow, consider using it as a winter-only oil, 
>> and relubricating with something a bit heavier for the warm months.  No 
>> sense wearing out an expensive hub prematurely. 
>>
>> Bill
>> Stockton, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:05:09 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Good question! I did a quick Google and it seems they have their own 
>>> brand of 'all season' oil, but I didn't find anything else. 
>>>
>>> I've tried Phil pawl lube, tenacious oil, 10w40 motor oil, various 
>>> chain lubes, etc. Triflow is the only thing I've found to work 
>>> consistently 
>>> below -10C. Even -5C was getting my 10w40 lube sticking a bit, which I 
>>> found surprising. 
>>>
>>> Strangely enough, my older 3-pawl phil wood road hub has never 
>>> skipped in any temperatures, ever. But 

Re: [RBW] Re: Could the end be near? Spring and happy Phil pawls

[Ryan Fleming]

Hiya Mark


Just a quick question...your Phil hub is a free hub, not the hideously 
expensive (595.00 US$) cassette version, right? Which I was briefly 
considering for my mixte until I looked at the price  and  Mark at Riv 
suggested that the White industries M15's would be the way to go if I must 
have bling...yes I must.

Thanks!

On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 11:43:24 AM UTC-6, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Yup, totally agree. Even in summer I had occasional sticking using 
> tenacious oil. Since running into this issue, I've learned of two others 
> with the identical problem. One locally, one from Colarado. I'm just glad 
> it's working well now :)
>
> On Mon, Feb 22, 2016 at 11:25 AM, dougP  
> wrote:
>
>> "For reference, the factory supplied Phil Wood pawl lube is a mix of 
>> something around 9 parts tenacious oil to 1 part phil grease."'
>>
>> Phil's Tenacious is quite thick even in moderate temps.  No wonder it's 
>> problematic under your temp conditions.  Throw in some grease for 
>> stickiness & voila, sticking pawls.  I've used Phil's Tenacious in freehubs 
>> & have one with over 50,000 miles on it that still works fine.  I never 
>> guessed one could last so long & just wondering how long it will go.  
>>
>> dougP
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 7:16:54 AM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> Agreed re: TriFlow as a winter-only oil. It's been in there a couple 
>>> weeks now and the hub has never ran so nicely. I'll open it up later this 
>>> week and see how things are looking inside. 
>>>
>>> The 10w-40 oil was something I started using in the fall, so it was too 
>>> heavy even in near-freezing temperatures. Pretty surprising how sensitive 
>>> this freehub is to viscosity. A lower synthetic oil is a good idea though. 
>>>
>>> For reference, the factory supplied Phil Wood pawl lube is a mix of 
>>> something around 9 parts tenacious oil to 1 part phil grease. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 8:40:54 AM UTC-6, Brian Campbell wrote:

 I was wondering if a 50/50 split of 5w30 motor oil and Automatic 
 Transmission fluid would do it?

 On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 8:54:17 PM UTC-5, Bill M. wrote:
>
> At temperatures that low, the pour point of the lubricant would start 
> to matter.  Phil Tenacious Oil is probably molasses at -40.  I can't find 
> detailed specs for Tri Flow, but the MSDS says its flash point is pretty 
> low (170 degrees), indicating a fair portion of it is pretty light oil so 
> it probably does flow at a low temperature.  Sewing machine oils or 
> 3-in-One would perform similarly.  
>
> I'm not a huge fan of using motor oil outside of engines, but you 
> could go to a 0W-20 synthetic motor oil to get a very low pour point.  
> Synthetic oils have an inherently high viscosity index, which means they 
> don't change viscosity with temperature as much as mineral oils.  That 
> same 
> property would help maintain lubrication film strength when the weather 
> warms up.  
>
> If you stick with Tri Flow, consider using it as a winter-only oil, 
> and relubricating with something a bit heavier for the warm months.  No 
> sense wearing out an expensive hub prematurely. 
>
> Bill
> Stockton, CA
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:05:09 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Good question! I did a quick Google and it seems they have their own 
>> brand of 'all season' oil, but I didn't find anything else. 
>>
>> I've tried Phil pawl lube, tenacious oil, 10w40 motor oil, various 
>> chain lubes, etc. Triflow is the only thing I've found to work 
>> consistently 
>> below -10C. Even -5C was getting my 10w40 lube sticking a bit, which I 
>> found surprising. 
>>
>> Strangely enough, my older 3-pawl phil wood road hub has never 
>> skipped in any temperatures, ever. But this new and 'improved' 4-pawl 
>> design Phil came out with a year or two ago has been brutal. This is my 
>> third freehub and my first time since getting the Atlantis that I've 
>> been 
>> able to ride in the cold without it skipping. 
>>
>> I got the minimal and ultra light lube idea from some riders up in 
>> Alaska who used a few drops of Singer sewing machine oil. It's pretty 
>> similar to TriFlow. TriFlow is supposed to be good to -60C. I've had the 
>> 'pleasure' of trying it down to -40C and it's been working well. 
>>
>> A friend of mine just bought a Rohloff, I'll ask him about its low 
>> temp performance. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 2:50:47 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:
>>>
>>> What lube is used in Rohloff hubs?  That would seem to be a tricky 
>>> problem, given all the whirling bits.  And the Germans deal with real 
>>> winter.  Maybe ATF?
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 12:18:04 PM UTC-8, 

[RBW] Re: Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

[Lungimsam]

Maybe if they are lowering their bars to the optimal height if they are 
using a stem decaleur, which is not adjustable.
So, if you want your bag to sit squarely on the rack, you need to get the 
bars at a close enough height.
Just a thought, but I really don't know from porteur stuff.

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[RBW] WTB: Shimano V-Brake Levers - Silver

[David Banzer]

WTB: Shimano V-Brake Levers - Silver

Looking to finish up my wife's Clem, didn't realize that all silver v-brake 
levers were in short supply.
These look 
nice:http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-Deore-LX-BL-T660-Mountain-MTB-Bike-V-Brake-Lever-Set-F-R/222030850709?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3Db751fb44fdb8407a859b943279a2f9fd%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D222030850709%26clkid%3D3576477685431709225&_qi=RTM2247625
Something like that, but without waiting for slow shipping from Taiwan.
Contact me offlist if you have anything and how much it'd be shipped to 
60618.
Thanks,
David
chicago

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[RBW] Re: FS: 65cm Homer Hilsen

[ed k]

Dave - not sure my PMs are getting to you.   I hope you are well and not 
overly stressed.  What is the current status?  Drop me a line: ed.k < at > 
att.net  

On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 4:04:00 PM UTC-5, David Craig wrote:
>
> Hey, Sam.
>
> PBH is approx 94. Saddle ht tends to be around 82-84.
>
> Dave
>
> On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 11:06:19 PM UTC-8, Sam Wanless wrote:
>>
>> dave,
>>
>> what's your saddle height? and pbh, for that matter?
>>
>> thanks,
>> sam
>>
>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 1:48:59 PM UTC-8, David Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey, Folks.
>>>
>>> Haven't posted for quite awhile. I've been on a medically prompted 
>>> hiatus from cycling for the past couple of years. The wife and I will be 
>>> hitting the road in a couple of weeks for a year long sabbatical, and I've 
>>> decided to pass on my HH to somebody who might be able to use it rather 
>>> than store it.
>>>
>>> The bike is in great condition - pictured here: 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/albums/72157626013424216
>>>
>>> Couple of changes from the picture - the bike no longer has a leather 
>>> seat and it now sports a 7cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem instead of the 
>>> riser - otherwise, it's the same bike pictured.
>>>
>>> I can provide detailed photos and build info to interested buyers. I'm 
>>> looking for $1500.00 OBO for the entire bike. Quite a deal, but you'd need 
>>> to be able to pick the bike up in central California. I don't have the time 
>>> to ship it. I'm located in the Gold County near Yosemite and I'd be willing 
>>> to drive to a couple of hours from here to deliver the bike.
>>>
>>> I've sold several items to list members over the years, so I believe 
>>> I've got a good reputation as a straight shooter and honest guy. 
>>>
>>> Remember, please reply via a PM instead of through the list. I'll get 
>>> back to you ASAP.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Bates path racer, Grand Bois stem, Paul brake

[Clayton.sf]

Hi All,

Not exactly riv stuff, but still in the spirit. Moderators, if you feel 
like I am overstepping the boundries, feel free to delete this post.


Few things for sale:

E.G. Bates Path Racer. Size ~57.5 ctc tt. 50s or 60s. Threads have been 
chased. Some internal rust in the bb shell. Lugged Reynolds 531. 120 rear 
spacing. English bb threads. drilled front and rear. Was likely repainted 
and paint is in excellent shape. Fender eyelets front and rear. Room for 32 
tires with fenders and 35 without. Has pump peg brazed on the seat tube. No 
bottole mounts. Comes with New Campagnolo Record headset installed. Have 
headbadge for it too, but not the screws. Doublesided tape should do the 
trick. $575 shipped to CONUS

Paul nutted racer front. Like new with all the hardware $75, shipped to 
CONUS

Grand Bois steel stem with bell 110mm 25.4 clamp. Like new. $150, shipped 
CONUS

Package deal: $750 shipped to CONUS

Parts and frame can be seen here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/claytonesseff/

Best,
Clayton Scott
SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

[Patrick Moore]

Low bars and low trail do not, to my knowlege, have any connection. I think
that the reason why porteur bikes have lower bars is that that many
Rivendell riders like bars a lot higher than other riders like them.

The bar on this Rebour-esque (so, I assume, typical) porteur seems pretty
typical; it's certainly not low.

[image: Inline image 1]

On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 11:00 AM, EGNolan  wrote:

> A lot has to do with geometry; i.e. most actual porteur bicycles have low
> trail geometries which usually coincide with a fairly low handlebar by Riv
> standards. I've found that the higher & further back my h'bars are (I now
> use Boscos on a Handsome XOXO), the more of my weight is on the rear wheel
> & thus the more weight the front seems to handle. A li'l weight up front is
> now key for this bike to handle well IMHO, so I always at least keep my
> U-lock in my basket.
>
> Best,
> Eric
>
>>
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>



-- 
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By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities
revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the
world revolves.) *Carthusian motto

*It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart

*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] Re: Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

[Frank Brose]

I have a Rawland rSogn with a Haulin Colin rack and large Swift bag on the 
front and it has Albatross bars with an uprising stem. Handles just fine 
loaded otherwise.

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 11:19:47 AM UTC-6, John Phillips wrote:
>
> Hi,  I was looking at Google photos of bikes with porteur racks, and I 
> noticed that most bikes had un-Riv-like lower handlebars, placing the 
> handle bars closer to the rack and the load.
>
> On the Riv staff bike webpage, Sean & Jenny have their handle bars set 
> closer to their porteur racks as well.
>
> Does anyone on the list use a large basket and/or porteur rack, and how do 
> you like to set up your handlebars in relation to your front load?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: "Store Credit" on BLUG

[Deacon Patrick]

Pay us $5k today for $6k store credit today. I'm delighted to see five 
folks took them up on it, bummed my unexpected inheritance didn't come 
through so I could be among them for a fit tire Quickbeam custom! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 11:01:08 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> for those who missed this (like me) , cliffnotes?
>

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[RBW] Re: Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

[EGNolan]

A lot has to do with geometry; i.e. most actual porteur bicycles have low 
trail geometries which usually coincide with a fairly low handlebar by Riv 
standards. I've found that the higher & further back my h'bars are (I now 
use Boscos on a Handsome XOXO), the more of my weight is on the rear wheel 
& thus the more weight the front seems to handle. A li'l weight up front is 
now key for this bike to handle well IMHO, so I always at least keep my 
U-lock in my basket.

Best,
Eric

>
>

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[RBW] Re: "Store Credit" on BLUG

[Belopsky]

for those who missed this (like me) , cliffnotes?

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Re: [RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[Bill Gibson]

BQ had an article about their polisher, who I think is in the Seattle Metro
area.

On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 9:56 AM, George Schick  wrote:

> Interesting. Are the dies made by a machinist there at the Taiwan forging
> facility or are they spec'd out to an independent tool shop?  Also, where
> do they do the final machining on the cranks (drilling, taping, polishing,
> etc.)?
>
>
> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 8:38:27 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where
>> Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass
>> cranks and what is involved.
>>
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
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-- 
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Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: "Store Credit" on BLUG

[dstein]

What was the notice that was removed? I missed it.

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[RBW] Lower Handlebars for Loaded Baskets & Porteur Racks?

[John Phillips]

Hi,  I was looking at Google photos of bikes with porteur racks, and I 
noticed that most bikes had un-Riv-like lower handlebars, placing the 
handle bars closer to the rack and the load.

On the Riv staff bike webpage, Sean & Jenny have their handle bars set 
closer to their porteur racks as well.

Does anyone on the list use a large basket and/or porteur rack, and how do 
you like to set up your handlebars in relation to your front load?

Thanks,

John


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Re: [RBW] No bike parking lockable signs? What's going on these days???

[Steven Sweedler]

When I was working at Plymouth State University as their Horticulturist I
used to leave notes on bicycles locked to trees asking them not to. Pedals
would often gouge the bark on young trees Steve
Now retired
On Thursday, February 25, 2016, Bill  wrote:

> Not legal to lock a bike to a tree? Mother Nature is silently shedding
> tears.
>
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[RBW] Re: No bike parking lockable signs? What's going on these days???

[Bill]

Not legal to lock a bike to a tree? Mother Nature is silently shedding tears.

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[RBW] FS sachs, nitto, misc.

[gordo]

Hi Dylan,

I can't pm you from my phone.  I'd love to buy the PX crank arms - please send 
me an email with payment instructions -  egordon2231(at)gmail.com.

Thanks,

Eric

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[RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[George Schick]

Interesting. Are the dies made by a machinist there at the Taiwan forging 
facility or are they spec'd out to an independent tool shop?  Also, where 
do they do the final machining on the cranks (drilling, taping, polishing, 
etc.)?


On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 8:38:27 AM UTC-6, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where 
> Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass 
> cranks and what is involved.
>
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>

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[RBW] Re: Rancid Proofhide

[Deacon Patrick]

That's just silly. We have anti-rancid technology, and have for thousands 
of years.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 9:04:41 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> Yes it can go rancid, maybe quicker in hot and humid climates.
>
>

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[RBW] FS sachs, nitto, misc.

[dylan alverson]

Hi I have a few things for sale. 

1. NOS 26 inch 36 whole wheels.  Mavic 231 rims Sachs new success mtn. hubs 
135 spaced.  These are a fully NOS wheel set no skewers.  Great vintage 
Atlantis or all rounder wheel set. $240 shipped. 

2. Sugino PX crankset.  175 length.  Used  5 times bought NOS.  No 
chainrings or bolts $100 shipped 

3. First run Velo Orange swept back bars.  1 pair Left bank.  1 pair 
Montmartre.  Both used with baskets and such but overall in good shape. 
This was the first batch made by Nitto for Velo Orange before they were 
made in Taiwan.  Both pairs are for 23.8 levers, bar end shifters or 
inverse levers.  Great Porteur bars.  $50 shipped each.

4. 650b Dynamo wheel.  32 Hole Silver Sp dynamo laced to Velocity Atlas. 
 Very Low miles.  $200 Shipped.  

5. 650B Rear Phil wood single speed wheel.  With IRD 19 tooth cog and phil 
locking.  32 Hole flip flop hub. 120 spaced.  $175 shipped. 

6. Paul Racer M front center pull brake. $70 shipped. 

Please respond privately for pictures or more info.  Items are located in 
Minneapolis.  

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[RBW] Re: "Store Credit" on BLUG

[RJM]

I agree with you, Eric. I would love a Riv jersey if it is nicely made and 
I'm not looking for a long chainstay, upright bosco-like handlebar 
bike...but I do think I'm not like most Riv customers in that I like to 
ride hard much of the time; I like generally fast or faster than slow 
riding; I use a power meter to quantify "performance gains;" I'm a strava 
premium member; I am unable to commute to work, and use my bikes primarily 
for recreation and exercise. So, riv might be doing exactly what their 
normal customers want. Either way, I love the company and am seriously 
eyeing that Legolas.

On Wednesday, February 24, 2016 at 4:49:23 PM UTC-6, Eric wrote:
>
> Maybe something w/ the update about changing all the geometry for longer 
> chainstays also plays into this.
>
> I for one don't want longer stays, Riv's are already very generous but did 
> prompt me to investigate a possible purchase.
>
> And again, they really need to stop selling kitchy stuff like cheese 
> boards and sell some Rivendell branded sport wool jerseys. 
>
> Hell, maybe I'll just make some & sell 'em on eBay. They always fetch over 
> $100 and after a few times I can buy a new frame. Problem solved!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rancid Proofhide

[Garth]

Yes it can go rancid, maybe quicker in hot and humid climates.

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Re: [RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[Patrick Moore]

I swapped the 170s on the Fargo for 172.5s, and I don't think I notice any
difference. But when I had 175s on an erstwhile Diamondback, with a fiddly
60" fixed gear (meant for off road) pedaling on flats was truly horrible. I
switched to 170s things were far better. Same Pro 5 Vis crank model and
same Phil bb. I later raised the gi to 64", which made the bike even better.

On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 8:05 AM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> Really, interesting post.  I'll need more time to study it but would like
> to offer one observation, that has lead me to hesitate in buying a pair of
> these (besides not parting with the  considerable amount of cash).  I agree
> that I can not tell the difference between cranks 3mm or shorter and have
> always ridden 175 & 172.5 without distinction; but when I go to 170 I am
> prone to some knee pain after about two hours of riding.  So, would I know
> the difference in a 171; I don't know, but it still feels like a big gap
> between 171 & 177.
>
> Wouldn't 171, 175, 179 be a bit more forgiving.  Of course the dye is
> cast, so to speak.
>
> Michael
>
> On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 9:38:27 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>>
>> A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where
>> Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass
>> cranks and what is involved.
>>
>>
>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>> www.compasscycle.com
>>
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[RBW] Re: How forged cranks are made

[Michael Hechmer]

Really, interesting post.  I'll need more time to study it but would like 
to offer one observation, that has lead me to hesitate in buying a pair of 
these (besides not parting with the  considerable amount of cash).  I agree 
that I can not tell the difference between cranks 3mm or shorter and have 
always ridden 175 & 172.5 without distinction; but when I go to 170 I am 
prone to some knee pain after about two hours of riding.  So, would I know 
the difference in a 171; I don't know, but it still feels like a big gap 
between 171 & 177.

Wouldn't 171, 175, 179 be a bit more forgiving.  Of course the dye is cast, 
so to speak.

Michael

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 9:38:27 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where 
> Grant explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass 
> cranks and what is involved.
>
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
> www.compasscycle.com
>

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[RBW] How forged cranks are made

[Jan Heine]

A photo essay along the lines of the old Bridgestone catalogues where Grant 
explained how things were made: The steps in forging our Compass cranks and 
what is involved.

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/rene-herse-cranks-177-and-165-mm/

Enjoy!

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
www.compasscycle.com

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Re: [RBW] No bike parking lockable signs? What's going on these days???

[Scott Henry]

Wow, once I took the time to figure out what "Cis-gender" was
all I can say is wow.

As for acting like you belong and bypassing rules, Justin is right,
act like you belong and all is good.I do it all the time via my
other hobby of photography.Hold a nice camera, stick a large lens
on it, sling a bag over your shoulder and walk right in.I do it
all the time at college sporting events.   My personal rule is arrive
early and be visible.   Once the security guys see you, they will
assume that you are supposed to be there.

Back to bike related, roll it on in but stay out of other people's
way.   Once the store staff see you a few times, it won't be an issue.
  Just don't make it an issue by bringing in a dirty bike, covered in
snow and ice messing up their floors

Cheers,
Scott

On Wed, Feb 24, 2016 at 9:10 AM, Justin August  wrote:
> Now? Maybe.
> I also happen to check all the boxes of privilege:
> White.
> Male.
> Cis-gender.
> Culturally bland in dress.
>
> I got stopped more when I had a beard that you could build a birdhouse in. 
> Nearly every time I flew, in fact.
>
> -J
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: No bike parking lockable signs? What's going on these days???

[Anton Tutter]

With all the traffic and parking rules in place in rule-heavy Masachusetts, 
there's no shortage of signposts to lock to around greater urban Boston. 
It's also legal in almost all cases, except when the signposts have 
anything to do with handicapped drivers/pedestrians. And it's not legal to 
lock to trees.

Anton


On Tuesday, February 23, 2016 at 6:17:46 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> I notice that bike lockable metal sign poles in front of retailers, 
> offices, stores, etc. seem to be getting phased out in favor of those 
> concrete pillars from which the metal sign poles erupt at about 4' off the 
> ground. Making it hard to find a sign pole to lock up to with a U lock.
>
> I have noticed this more and more as I pull up to stores and offices and 
> seems like sometimes there is...just...no...place...to lock up.
>
> I had to lock my Bleriot to a railing on a neighboring business's patio 
> with my bike 3 feet off the ground on Monday and then had to lock up around 
> the side of a building to their meter power line on the same day, different 
> stop.
>
> I use a U lock and don't want to use a cable lock, so this is kind of a 
> bummer to me.
>
> The upside is that I guess a thief won't try to cut a power line. The 
> downside is that electrical hazard to the rider; the fact that it is 
> probably against the law to lock up to private property; and the fact that 
> if someone would have seen me they would have thought I was messing with 
> their power meter and they probably would have had the cops down on me in 
> no time. So I won't be doing that again.
>
>
>
>
>

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