[RBW] Re: Riv and the Wright Brothers

[R. Alexis]

Gary was the point person for Rivendell at Waterford at that time. I 
remember getting a call from him to finalize what color I wanted my 
Rivendell Mountain. His Cycles Gaansari 29er was pretty nice. 

Reginald Alexis

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 6:36:09 PM UTC-6, RichS wrote:
>
> John, 
>
> Thanks for your interesting post about Gary Boulanger. He crafted some 
> nice looking bikes. I believe he was Grant’s point person at Waterford in 
> Rivendell’s earlier years. 
>
> Lucky you for being acquainted with him! 
>
> Best, 
> Richard

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Lum Gim Fong]

Edwin,

Whats the reach as measured from tip o the saddle nose to center of bartop 
clamp?

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Joe Bernard]

Bingo! I'm almost certain this will work with same-brand levers. Good call, 
Ray! 😎

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Ray Varella]

Before you unwrap your bars, see if the clamps are interchangeable. 
You may be able to remove the levers from the clamp and mount your new levers 
to the existing clamps. 

Ray

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[RBW] Re: Happy Birthday to me, from Rivendell

[Virgil Staphbeard]

That's awesome and exactly what helps make Rivendell Rivendell. 

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 5:15:21 PM UTC-5, J Imler wrote:
>
> I rode by Rivendell today b/c I'd asked Rich to inspect my front rim for 
> wear. He said it was totally fine.
>
> While I was there, Grant stepped out and gave me an envelope with some 
> printed black and whites. On a previous visit with the kids he broke out a 
> camera stand and snapped a few pictures.
>
> What a nice gesture, and it was my birthday which made it super cool!
>
> I hauled the kids over that time with the bike traincheck it out, so 
> fun.
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Tallux Stem, Blackburn stainless bottle cages, Arkel small handlebar bag

[Sean Cleary]

Here are photos. 

https://ibb.co/ckj2Sn
https://ibb.co/mDPQf7
https://ibb.co/heZrL7
https://ibb.co/ijbStS

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 4:44:50 PM UTC-6, Sean Cleary wrote:
>
> For sale, gently used equipment from my trusty A H Hilsen. Photos are 
> available to send to your email address until I upload to a hosting site.
>
> • Nitto Tallux 90mm 26.0 bar in very good condition. $60 shipped CONUS. 
> • Blackburn stainless steel water bottle holders in excellent condition. 
> $25 for two shipped CONUS. $35 for three shipped CONUS.
> • Arkel small handlebar bag in black, flawless condition. $105 shipped 
> CONUS. 
>  
> Local pickup save $5 off small parts, $10 off bag. 
>
> Sean in Minneapolis, MN 
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Edwin W]

Darn it Jeremy was right! 
Now, I guess I have to un wrap the whole bars and replace the levers and re 
wrap?

Ugg. 

Edwin

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[RBW] First weekend with the Quickbeam

[Deacon Patrick]

Ian, the pool of people who have ridden both will be small, far smaller than 
the already small pool of people who have ridden one. Grin. My QB (silver, last 
run) has clearence for 700 x 44 Snoqualme Pass Compass tires with fenders, but 
only just. I have no idea what geometry tweeks happened between QB runs and 
with the SO.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] First weekend with the Quickbeam

[Ian A]

Ted's post is somewhat enigmatic but raises an interesting question. Is a QB 
better than a SO or vice versa and if so, in which ways?

The QB/SO is something I constantly keep an eye open for as an all year round 
commuter, which would mean studded tires in winter, so details about tire 
clearance would be of particular interest.

IanA

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[RBW] First weekend with the Quickbeam

[ted]

Except a SimpleOne

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[RBW] Re: First weekend with the Quickbeam

[Eric Karnes]

Quickbeam / SimpleOne remains the best bike I have ever thrown a leg over. 
Congrats!

Eric

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 2:04:38 PM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> Last week, I took delivery of the 62cm Quickbeam that was on Ebay. A big 
> "Thank You" to the Sages and Enablers of this list--without your nudges and 
> advice, I would've hemmed and hawed until it was too late. It's one of the 
> Green ones without mid-fork brazeons, and the build is nice: Phil Wood 
> hubs, Paul cantis, original Mustache bars, etc. 
>
> Initial reaction: I love this bike! It's my first single speed since I was 
> a kid, and the simplicity is wonderful and addictive. The ride is perfect: 
> it's a nimble, quick bike, but it tracks straight and true. I'm no weight 
> weenie, but there's something wonderful about riding a relatively 
> lightweight Rivendell: the bike manages to feel both eager and calm. It 
> makes me wonder how I'd like a Legolas or Roadeo. I'm also surprised at how 
> much I love the shellac'd mustache bars and their perfect amount of 
> aggression, and I expect they contribute much to the bike's feel.
>
> I really hope Riv makes more SS frames in larger sizes. I was bummed to 
> see the Frank Jones top out at 59cm, though I understand that stocking 
> larger frames carries some risk. If you bought a 59 cm Frank Jones, post 
> some build pics!
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Edwin W]

Detective Till,

If you are correct, I am going to be annoyed at my local bike shop but 
not forever, since they take good care of me. And I did such a good job of 
wrapping the bars!

I'll check it out tonight... but I think you are right, since I had the 
same problem with flat bars a number of years ago until I learned about 
long pull levers.

Learning, always learning,

Edwin

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 6:00:15 PM UTC-6, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> Are the brake levers in the pictures the ones that bottom out?  If so, I 
> think you somehow ended up with wrong levers.  Those look like Tektro 
> RL340's, which are short-pull (caliper/canti) levers: 
>
> http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=72
>
> The RL520's are the v-brake compatible levers and they have a much taller 
> profile: 
>
> http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=71
>
>
> On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 12:42:59 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:
>>
>> I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to 
>> do something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new 
>> bike, so I put on some drops.
>> I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so 
>> I got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
>> with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!
>>
>> One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I 
>> could find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute 
>> most cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. 
>> They stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more 
>> cable save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
>> another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
>> little further apart. Will that make a difference?
>>
>> Photos 
>> 
>>
>> I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.
>>
>> Edwin
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Bob Lovejoy]

Wow...!  My money is on what Jeremy is saying  Great eye, great 
(potential) catch!!

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Jeremy Till]

Are the brake levers in the pictures the ones that bottom out?  If so, I 
think you somehow ended up with wrong levers.  Those look like Tektro 
RL340's, which are short-pull (caliper/canti) levers: 

http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=72

The RL520's are the v-brake compatible levers and they have a much taller 
profile: 

http://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=71


On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 12:42:59 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to 
> do something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new 
> bike, so I put on some drops.
> I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so 
> I got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
> with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!
>
> One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I could 
> find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute most 
> cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. They 
> stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more cable 
> save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
> another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
> little further apart. Will that make a difference?
>
> Photos 
> 
>
> I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[Bill Lindsay]

Amplifying what Phil said, I do not think of the Tuggnut as a tension 
adjuster.  I think of the Tuggnut as a slip-prevention device.  The OP 
shows a photo of a White Industries Dos Eno Freewheel on the bike, and what 
appear to be Phil allen head axle nuts.  In order to use both gears, you 
need a way to make the chain loose so you can switch the chain to the other 
gear.  A Tuggnut would be an impediment for that use-case.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 10:04:12 AM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I don't (and wouldn't) use a tug nut with a fixed gear. 
> I think I use my knees, like Patrick, as the two extra hands. Easiest with 
> a QR and no fenders, but still easy enough. I do a think where I half-snug 
> the left nut, then push the wheel toward the chain to center the wheel and 
> tension the chain. Then I snug the right nut, and full-snug the left nut. 
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[tc]

Oh man, this is more great info - Can’t wait to try it out. Thanks!

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[Eric Daume]

Sheldon has a method for this:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/no-derailers.html

*Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and
tightening the axle nuts. They don't need to be super tight at this stage,
but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel
alignment.*

*Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is
correctly aligned. Loosen the right-side axle nut and push the tire to the
side so that the right end of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the
axle nut you loosened.*

*Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer
centered between the chainstays. Loosen the left-side axle nut and
re-center the wheel in the frame. This will tighten the chain a little bit
more. Repeat as needed. The key is to keep one or the other of the axle
nuts tight at all times, and "walk" the wheel forward and back. This takes
a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to
adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn't really hard as long as
you keep one side secured at all times.*


Eric
Plain City, OH
who has no bolt on fixed gear wheels

On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 5:28 PM, Brad  wrote:

> I used to have a Quickbeam and I used the same technique that Philip
> describes (except backward). My process:
>
> Make sure both nuts are loose.
> Stand behind the bike and grab the front of the rear wheel with your left
> hand.
> Gently pull the wheel back and to the right (push it up against the right
> chainstay.
> Tighten the right track nut.
> Pull the wheel so it's centered between the chainstays and tighten the
> left track nut.
> The chain should have a little slack so when the wheel gets pulled left,
> the chain gets pulled to the proper tension.
> Give both nuts one more good tightening.
>
> The chain should move up and down about a half inch when the tension is
> right.
> Once you get a feel for the process, you should be able to get in right in
> one or two tries. I'm pretty sure I got this technique from Sheldon Brown
> (as will almost everything I know about bikes!)
>
> Like everyone else said, you shouldn't need chain tensioners with a
> freewheel.
>
> Brad
> Queens
>
>
> On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 1:04:12 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:
>>
>> I don't (and wouldn't) use a tug nut with a fixed gear.
>> I think I use my knees, like Patrick, as the two extra hands. Easiest
>> with a QR and no fenders, but still easy enough. I do a think where I
>> half-snug the left nut, then push the wheel toward the chain to center the
>> wheel and tension the chain. Then I snug the right nut, and full-snug the
>> left nut.
>>
>> Philip
>> Santa Rosa, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 8:51:28 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>>>
>>> Has anyone used a Surly Tuggnut
>>> 
>>> tensioner?  If not, what gadget or method have you found useful that
>>> requires only 2 hands to properly tension a single speed chain?  I watched 
>>> this
>>> pretty good video  by Park Tool.Being new
>>> to setting up a single speed, getting tension right was a bit of a
>>> four-handed chore.  Hoping the Tuggnut or something similar will help.
>>> Thanks for any wisdom!
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
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[RBW] Re: Happy Birthday to me, from Rivendell

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

That's pretty awesome!

Eamon
Seattle


>

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[RBW] Re: Happy Birthday to me, from Rivendell

[Sean Cleary]

Nice photos, Bill. Ain't America great!?

Sean in Mpls

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 4:15:21 PM UTC-6, J Imler wrote:
>
> I rode by Rivendell today b/c I'd asked Rich to inspect my front rim for 
> wear. He said it was totally fine.
>
> While I was there, Grant stepped out and gave me an envelope with some 
> printed black and whites. On a previous visit with the kids he broke out a 
> camera stand and snapped a few pictures.
>
> What a nice gesture, and it was my birthday which made it super cool!
>
> I hauled the kids over that time with the bike traincheck it out, so 
> fun.
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Happy Birthday to me, from Rivendell

[Bill Lindsay]

Grant is the best.

When my kids were small I had the identical bike train.  Bike --> Blue 
Burley Piccolo --> Blue and Yellow Burley trailer.  Now my kids are 'not 
small'.  In fact, this week might mark the week when I weigh less than my 
son for the first time ever. 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 2:15:21 PM UTC-8, J Imler wrote:
>
> I rode by Rivendell today b/c I'd asked Rich to inspect my front rim for 
> wear. He said it was totally fine.
>
> While I was there, Grant stepped out and gave me an envelope with some 
> printed black and whites. On a previous visit with the kids he broke out a 
> camera stand and snapped a few pictures.
>
> What a nice gesture, and it was my birthday which made it super cool!
>
> I hauled the kids over that time with the bike traincheck it out, so 
> fun.
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Tallux Stem, Blackburn stainless bottle cages, Arkel small handlebar bag

[Sean Cleary]

For sale, gently used equipment from my trusty A H Hilsen. Photos are 
available to send to your email address until I upload to a hosting site.

• Nitto Tallux 90mm 26.0 bar in very good condition. $60 shipped CONUS. 
• Blackburn stainless steel water bottle holders in excellent condition. 
$25 for two shipped CONUS. $35 for three shipped CONUS.
• Arkel small handlebar bag in black, flawless condition. $105 shipped 
CONUS. 
 
Local pickup save $5 off small parts, $10 off bag. 

Sean in Minneapolis, MN 

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[RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Clayton.sf]

In terms of bars (not that you asked but you might enjoy them anyway). I am 
really enjoying salsa cowchippers for this purpose. They work great with 
the gevenalle shifter too. 

Clayton Scott,
SF, CA

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 12:33:15 PM UTC-8, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>
> I just ordered 1x10 Gevenalle shifters. They'll work with my current gear. 
> I've wanted a drop-bar large volume tire bike for a long time and I'm 
> hoping this will all come together nicely and satisfy that desire. I'll 
> post it up once it's done. While the only identifiably Rivish item on the 
> bike is the B17, the bike is very much a product of riding Rivs in the past.
>

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[RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[Brad]

I used to have a Quickbeam and I used the same technique that Philip 
describes (except backward). My process:

Make sure both nuts are loose.
Stand behind the bike and grab the front of the rear wheel with your left 
hand.
Gently pull the wheel back and to the right (push it up against the right 
chainstay.
Tighten the right track nut.
Pull the wheel so it's centered between the chainstays and tighten the left 
track nut.
The chain should have a little slack so when the wheel gets pulled left, 
the chain gets pulled to the proper tension.
Give both nuts one more good tightening. 

The chain should move up and down about a half inch when the tension is 
right.
Once you get a feel for the process, you should be able to get in right in 
one or two tries. I'm pretty sure I got this technique from Sheldon Brown 
(as will almost everything I know about bikes!)

Like everyone else said, you shouldn't need chain tensioners with a 
freewheel.

Brad
Queens


On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 1:04:12 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I don't (and wouldn't) use a tug nut with a fixed gear. 
> I think I use my knees, like Patrick, as the two extra hands. Easiest with 
> a QR and no fenders, but still easy enough. I do a think where I half-snug 
> the left nut, then push the wheel toward the chain to center the wheel and 
> tension the chain. Then I snug the right nut, and full-snug the left nut. 
>
> Philip
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
>
>
> On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 8:51:28 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone used a Surly Tuggnut 
>>  
>> tensioner?  If not, what gadget or method have you found useful that 
>> requires only 2 hands to properly tension a single speed chain?  I watched 
>> this 
>> pretty good video  by Park Tool.Being new 
>> to setting up a single speed, getting tension right was a bit of a 
>> four-handed chore.  Hoping the Tuggnut or something similar will help.  
>> Thanks for any wisdom!
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>  
>

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[RBW] Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[tc]

Thanks guys - I knew there’d be some sage advice from you who’ve done it a 
zillion times. I’ll try the knee method, though it seems a device like the 
Tuggnut would still be useful for fine-tuning. 

Also, I need to check, but it seems like the inner face of the flanged Allen 
bolt should be grooved or etched or something to keep help that sucker from 
slipping in the slot. 

Tom

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Re: [RBW] Re: Flickstand alternatives? How to keep the front stable while not moving?

[Dave]

For me, it's all about my kiddo riding on a Yepp seat on a rear rack. With 
my double kickstand and his weight, the front wheel will always pop up into 
the air. Without the wheel stabilizer, the front end (bosco bullmoose + 
front basket) would swing around and hit the top tube. Even with a shopsack 
in the front basket, and decently full hub-area-rack sackville bags, the 
stabilizer dampens the swing.

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 9:40:38 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I use the ground. I gave up trying to keep my bike upright. Gravity simply 
> won the struggle too many times. Of course, I no longer ride with a front 
> load or basket either. Sardonic grin. I found the ground was always there 
> when I needed it, never in the way when I didn’t, always obliging to hold 
> my bike for me, and hasn’t failed to hold it once. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] Happy Birthday to me, from Rivendell

[J Imler]

I rode by Rivendell today b/c I'd asked Rich to inspect my front rim for 
wear. He said it was totally fine.

While I was there, Grant stepped out and gave me an envelope with some 
printed black and whites. On a previous visit with the kids he broke out a 
camera stand and snapped a few pictures.

What a nice gesture, and it was my birthday which made it super cool!

I hauled the kids over that time with the bike traincheck it out, so 
fun.








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[RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[jandrews_nyc]

The OP's query is an interesting one though...When is it advisable to use a 
chain tensioning adjuster device on the rear dropouts/trackends of a single 
speed bike...(not fixed gear)?
Is the general assumption that good quality QR skewers and bolt-on's alike 
are both strong enough to really keep the tension of the chain correct?
I remember seeing someone's Simpleone on this list who used the MKS 
adjusters in the dropouts.
I tried something similar with my QB/SO when adding an Origin8 derailleur 
hanger/tension adjuster to make it a multispeed bike but I found that since 
the dropouts aren't horizontal and are pitched up at an angle, the whole 
thing didn't work out all that well for that application.




On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 1:25:55 PM UTC-5, christian poppell wrote:
>
> I second the Phillip method of tightening the chain. It's even possible to 
> get the chain too tight! Do it a few times and you'll get a feel for it. 
> One additional thing I do is to put a toe strap through the front wheel and 
> frame to keep it from flopping around. This way you can push forward on the 
> bike to lift it onto the front wheel. Hope that helps!

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Bob Lovejoy]

I do not have any truly current pictures of my Appaloosa but I took a 
couple late last year.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/21182339@N05/24939405718/in/album-72157682579281726/
If the weather here will clear for more than a day or two, I will get 
better and more pictures.  The bike now has Berthoud stainless fenders and 
(I think) 700x40 Schwalbe Mondial tires.

I am using a 6cm stem but I love the bike with drop bars.  Every time I 
ride it now, it is very easy to imagine riding it a long, long way and has 
made any idea of needing, even wanting, a different touring bike seem 
totally unnecessary.

I use cantilever brakes (Shimano CX-70's) but the only advice I can offer 
is to make sure your brake pads run pretty close to the rim as I believe 
V-brakes are designed for that fairly minimal distance between pad and rim. 
 You obviously do not want pads rubbing but close is a good thing with 
V-brakes.

I do think your bike looks great!

Bob Lovejoy
Galesburg, IL

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 2:42:59 PM UTC-6, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to 
> do something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new 
> bike, so I put on some drops.
> I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so 
> I got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
> with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!
>
> One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I could 
> find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute most 
> cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. They 
> stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more cable 
> save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
> another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
> little further apart. Will that make a difference?
>
> Photos 
> 
>
> I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Drw]

If you are using the tektro linear pull/V brake drop levers, they shouldn't 
bottom out before fully braking the bike. Is it possible that you have the 
QR part of the lever set in the "open" position? Otherwise, i think this is 
a set up issue, probably at the brakes themselves. how close are the pads 
to the rim? is the housing seated correctly in the lever? I'm not a fan of 
those tektro levers for other reasons, but you should be able to get them 
to pull enough cable to stop the bike more than adequately without hitting 
the bars.

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Bill Lindsay]

I don't really like the design of those brakelevers.  They curve way in 
towards the bar, like they are 'short reach' levers for riders with small 
hands.  That sacrifices a bunch of additional cable pull that you could 
have had.  If it were me, I might go look for a pair of Dia Compe 287 
levers and start over.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 12:42:59 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to 
> do something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new 
> bike, so I put on some drops.
> I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so 
> I got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
> with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!
>
> One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I could 
> find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute most 
> cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. They 
> stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more cable 
> save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
> another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
> little further apart. Will that make a difference?
>
> Photos 
> 
>
> I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Rusty Click]

There is a product called a "Travel Agent" that increases cable pull.  A 
friend has them on his LHT, and he has no complaints.  You can find install 
videos on the inter-web.

rusty

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 3:42:59 PM UTC-5, Edwin W wrote:
>
> I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to 
> do something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new 
> bike, so I put on some drops.
> I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so 
> I got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
> with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!
>
> One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I could 
> find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute most 
> cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. They 
> stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more cable 
> save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
> another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
> little further apart. Will that make a difference?
>
> Photos 
> 
>
> I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.
>
> Edwin
>

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[RBW] Drop Bar Appaloosa and how to pull more cable

[Edwin W]

I have not seen (m)any photos of Appaloosas with a drop bar. I wanted to do 
something new this spring, and my wallet did not want me to get a new bike, 
so I put on some drops.
I had tried this a few years ago with my Sam, and it never felt great, so I 
got a shorter stem this time (7cm vs 9cm). Then I put yellow Newbaum's on 
with a light coat of clear shellac. Spring time!

One thing I don't love is that I got the absolute tallest V Brakes I could 
find when I bought this, and those tall V Brakes need the absolute most 
cable pull... and the tektro v brake levers for drop bars bottom out. They 
stop the bike, but no room to spare! Any ideas on how to pull more cable 
save for getting those pulley add on things? I was thinking of trying 
another washer on the inside of the arm to put the tops of the arms a 
little further apart. Will that make a difference?

Photos 


I would love to see pictures any other drop bar Appaloosas.

Edwin

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[RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Leaf Slayer]

I just ordered 1x10 Gevenalle shifters. They'll work with my current gear. 
I've wanted a drop-bar large volume tire bike for a long time and I'm 
hoping this will all come together nicely and satisfy that desire. I'll 
post it up once it's done. While the only identifiably Rivish item on the 
bike is the B17, the bike is very much a product of riding Rivs in the past.

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[RBW] Re: FS-Joe Appaloosa

[Gossamer]

I wish someone would hurry up and buy this awesome bike that happens to be 
sitting in my garage doing nothing. B17 special now included. PM me for 
pricing and shipping.

On Tuesday, February 27, 2018 at 12:31:42 PM UTC-6, tc wrote:
>
> I wish someone would hurry up and buy this awesome bike that happens to 
> fit me but I can’t afford — Please!

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[RBW] FS: New home for 62cm Simple One - currently in Amsterdam

[I like coffee!! !!]

Hey! How much! 

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[RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Clayton.sf]

Use 1x gevenalle with 11 speed Dynasys XT der. works very well.

Clayton Scott
SF, CA

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 9:28:45 AM UTC-8, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>
> Haven't chimed in here in a long long time. Curious what folks think. I'm 
> a longtime fan of BE shifters so quite familiar with them. I'm getting 
> ready to convert my Surly Ogre from a Jones Bar to a Cowchipper with a 70mm 
> VO Cigne Stem. I'm running a 10spd Shimano SLX derailer. I'm leaning toward 
> Gevenalle but curious what folks thoughts and experience are with them. I 
> like the Jones bars well enough but really want to try the Cowchippers on 
> the Ogre. The stem gets them in the right place with what should be 
> appropriate extension. I spend more time on dirt roads on this bike than 
> technical singletrack so it should be fine. 
>
> This set-up seems takes a leap of faith as the steerer will be cut down to 
> an otherwise useless length for me. I'm hopeful this set-up will work for 
> me. If not... well, looks like I'll be purchasing a new fork. Don't let 
> anyone tell you threaded steerer tubes and quill stems don't have their 
> place.
>
> Feel free to contact me if you happen to have some Gevenalle shifters for 
> sale (long pull, 10x1, Shimano DynaShift).
>
> Thanks!
>
> --mike
>

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[RBW] First weekend with the Quickbeam

[Deacon Patrick]

Ain’t nuffin’ like a Quickbeam! Congratulations!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Clayton.sf]

Use 1x gevenalle with 11 speed. works very well.

Clayton Scott
SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: First weekend with the Quickbeam

[sameness]

Congrats! Agreed, that build is great. If I had another half inch in the 
inseam that bike would still be in my garage. Enjoy!

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: First weekend with the Quickbeam

[Wally Estrella]

The Ent-ablers are correct! It is a wonderful bicycle.  Congrats and 
continue the enjoyment! I love my orange QB.


On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 2:04:38 PM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> Last week, I took delivery of the 62cm Quickbeam that was on Ebay. A big 
> "Thank You" to the Sages and Enablers of this list--without your nudges and 
> advice, I would've hemmed and hawed until it was too late. It's one of the 
> Green ones without mid-fork brazeons, and the build is nice: Phil Wood 
> hubs, Paul cantis, original Mustache bars, etc. 
>
> Initial reaction: I love this bike! It's my first single speed since I was 
> a kid, and the simplicity is wonderful and addictive. The ride is perfect: 
> it's a nimble, quick bike, but it tracks straight and true. I'm no weight 
> weenie, but there's something wonderful about riding a relatively 
> lightweight Rivendell: the bike manages to feel both eager and calm. It 
> makes me wonder how I'd like a Legolas or Roadeo. I'm also surprised at how 
> much I love the shellac'd mustache bars and their perfect amount of 
> aggression, and I expect they contribute much to the bike's feel.
>
> I really hope Riv makes more SS frames in larger sizes. I was bummed to 
> see the Frank Jones top out at 59cm, though I understand that stocking 
> larger frames carries some risk. If you bought a 59 cm Frank Jones, post 
> some build pics!
>

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[RBW] First weekend with the Quickbeam

[John G.]

Last week, I took delivery of the 62cm Quickbeam that was on Ebay. A big 
"Thank You" to the Sages and Enablers of this list--without your nudges and 
advice, I would've hemmed and hawed until it was too late. It's one of the 
Green ones without mid-fork brazeons, and the build is nice: Phil Wood 
hubs, Paul cantis, original Mustache bars, etc. 

Initial reaction: I love this bike! It's my first single speed since I was 
a kid, and the simplicity is wonderful and addictive. The ride is perfect: 
it's a nimble, quick bike, but it tracks straight and true. I'm no weight 
weenie, but there's something wonderful about riding a relatively 
lightweight Rivendell: the bike manages to feel both eager and calm. It 
makes me wonder how I'd like a Legolas or Roadeo. I'm also surprised at how 
much I love the shellac'd mustache bars and their perfect amount of 
aggression, and I expect they contribute much to the bike's feel.

I really hope Riv makes more SS frames in larger sizes. I was bummed to see 
the Frank Jones top out at 59cm, though I understand that stocking larger 
frames carries some risk. If you bought a 59 cm Frank Jones, post some 
build pics!

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Re: [RBW] OT - Throwback

[Patrick Moore]

That is really sad. We used to play baseball at every opportunity; it was
the game of choice during elementary school recess, at least when we
weren't playing some violent, little-boy variant of "tag". I wonder what
brought about this culture-shift from benign parental neglect to obsessive
parental control?

Odd. My parents were traditional Catholics and raised us strictly; my
father was, in addition, an upper-middle-class product of the 1920s-to-1940
old South (but an enlightened one; he left in his youth because he found it
"suffocating" -- his word). But they used to blithely let me at age 14
spend the weekend with a friend whose father ran the Dole plantation and
factory in Elspeth Huxley-Thika, driving back with the company driver after
school on Friday to their spread, where we'd spend a nice weekend on pot
and beer and rock 'n' roll. Then I'd have to hitchhike home back to our
house on the far side of Nairobi on a hot Sunday afternoon, slightly hung
over, no traffic on the lonely, rolling 2-lane back to the big city. As
long as I turned up for Sunday dinner at about 5 pm, they were quite
content to let me be.

On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 3:47 AM, ascpgh  wrote:

> No pick up games around here, despite two fields couple blocks either way.
> Kids and baseball mean minivans and gear bags full of multiple three digit
> aluminum bats, Oakley eyeshades,  special water bottles, coolers with
> Gatorade, latest model cleats, etc. but nothing as sophisticated as a
> Nocona glove. Another fun sport that used to be easy and not require
> parents to play lost to the arms race.
>
> ...
>

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[RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[christian poppell]

I second the Phillip method of tightening the chain. It's even possible to get 
the chain too tight! Do it a few times and you'll get a feel for it. One 
additional thing I do is to put a toe strap through the front wheel and frame 
to keep it from flopping around. This way you can push forward on the bike to 
lift it onto the front wheel. Hope that helps!

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[RBW] Re: 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[phil k]

I have the gevenalle GX 1x short pull. They are great. Shift well, 
convenient if you're on the hoods a lot. I recommend. 

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 12:28:45 PM UTC-5, Leaf Slayer wrote:
>
> Haven't chimed in here in a long long time. Curious what folks think. I'm 
> a longtime fan of BE shifters so quite familiar with them. I'm getting 
> ready to convert my Surly Ogre from a Jones Bar to a Cowchipper with a 70mm 
> VO Cigne Stem. I'm running a 10spd Shimano SLX derailer. I'm leaning toward 
> Gevenalle but curious what folks thoughts and experience are with them. I 
> like the Jones bars well enough but really want to try the Cowchippers on 
> the Ogre. The stem gets them in the right place with what should be 
> appropriate extension. I spend more time on dirt roads on this bike than 
> technical singletrack so it should be fine. 
>
> This set-up seems takes a leap of faith as the steerer will be cut down to 
> an otherwise useless length for me. I'm hopeful this set-up will work for 
> me. If not... well, looks like I'll be purchasing a new fork. Don't let 
> anyone tell you threaded steerer tubes and quill stems don't have their 
> place.
>
> Feel free to contact me if you happen to have some Gevenalle shifters for 
> sale (long pull, 10x1, Shimano DynaShift).
>
> Thanks!
>
> --mike
>

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[RBW] Re: Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[Philip Williamson]

I don't (and wouldn't) use a tug nut with a fixed gear. 
I think I use my knees, like Patrick, as the two extra hands. Easiest with 
a QR and no fenders, but still easy enough. I do a think where I half-snug 
the left nut, then push the wheel toward the chain to center the wheel and 
tension the chain. Then I snug the right nut, and full-snug the left nut. 

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA



On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 8:51:28 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Has anyone used a Surly Tuggnut 
>  
> tensioner?  If not, what gadget or method have you found useful that 
> requires only 2 hands to properly tension a single speed chain?  I watched 
> this 
> pretty good video  by Park Tool.Being new 
> to setting up a single speed, getting tension right was a bit of a 
> four-handed chore.  Hoping the Tuggnut or something similar will help.  
> Thanks for any wisdom!
>
> Tom
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Racer Brakeset, Black, $250

[Gabriel Bruguier]

Bump.

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Re: [RBW] 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Tim Gavin]

I can't speak to Gevenalle shifters (they look great but I haven't tried
them yet).  I have SRAM double tap shifters on my Cowchippers, and bar-end
shifters on other drops.

But, I can testify regarding the Salsa Cowchipper bars:  excellent!  Great
shape, great curve, just the right amount of flare.  I don't care for the
extreme flare and angled drops of the Woodchipper and similar bars.

One note on the Cowchippers:  although they measure accurately (width is
measured from the tops of the curves), they fit large.  I tried a set of 46
cm Cowchippers on my bike (Foundry Auger) and they felt HUUGE.  46 cm may
feel right on an off-road biased build like your Ogre.  But, I'm much
happier with the 42 cm width, and I was able to trade the 46 cm ones to a
friend for the Brooks B17 he didn't like.  Win!



On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 11:28 AM, Leaf Slayer  wrote:

> Haven't chimed in here in a long long time. Curious what folks think. I'm
> a longtime fan of BE shifters so quite familiar with them. I'm getting
> ready to convert my Surly Ogre from a Jones Bar to a Cowchipper with a 70mm
> VO Cigne Stem. I'm running a 10spd Shimano SLX derailer. I'm leaning toward
> Gevenalle but curious what folks thoughts and experience are with them. I
> like the Jones bars well enough but really want to try the Cowchippers on
> the Ogre. The stem gets them in the right place with what should be
> appropriate extension. I spend more time on dirt roads on this bike than
> technical singletrack so it should be fine.
>
> This set-up seems takes a leap of faith as the steerer will be cut down to
> an otherwise useless length for me. I'm hopeful this set-up will work for
> me. If not... well, looks like I'll be purchasing a new fork. Don't let
> anyone tell you threaded steerer tubes and quill stems don't have their
> place.
>
> Feel free to contact me if you happen to have some Gevenalle shifters for
> sale (long pull, 10x1, Shimano DynaShift).
>
> Thanks!
>
> --mike
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Flickstand alternatives? How to keep the front stable while not moving?

[Deacon Patrick]

I use the ground. I gave up trying to keep my bike upright. Gravity simply won 
the struggle too many times. Of course, I no longer ride with a front load or 
basket either. Sardonic grin. I found the ground was always there when I needed 
it, never in the way when I didn’t, always obliging to hold my bike for me, and 
hasn’t failed to hold it once. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[Deacon Patrick]

Hey Tom,

I do it all the time in the field as a two hand job. Ride to the trail in high, 
shift to low, ride up, shift to high, ride down then home. Wind, snow, rain, or 
shine, 110˚F or -20˚F, it’s a two hand job, so I’m confused how it’s a four 
hand job. Some of those conditions nobody is dumb enough to ride with me, so it 
has to be a two hand job. Grin.

I stand behind the bike, use my knees to position/hold the rear wheel (maybe 
that’s the bit you’re missing?) tighten the allen bolt on each side, using my 
knees to “square” the wheel/tire in the chain stays after one side is tight.

Does that help, or confuse?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis maiden voyage

[Kellie]

Congrats on your Atlantis. FWIW I love the Choco's on mine.

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 7:56:24 AM UTC-8, Brent P wrote:
>
> They're the perfect fit for the Atlantis. Very comfortable. I had the 
> Albatross on my Appaloosa and they are a better match for the Atlantis. If 
> anything I might like them just a touch wider. The Jones bar on the 
> Appaloosa spoils me with that wide open reach.
>
> Now, of course that won't stop me from playing musical handlebars and try 
> the Choco,  Bosco and a few other ideas I have sitting on the shelf.
>
> On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 7:27:27 AM UTC-6, Rusty Click wrote:
>>
>> Such a great looking build!  I am taking notes while waiting for my own, 
>> a 62, to arrive sometime late in the summer.  How do you like the Albatross 
>> bars?
>>
>> Rusty
>> Pgh, PA
>>
>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Mini moto real world clearances

[Brent P]

I installed minimotos on a 64 Atlantis with WTB Resolutes, 42mm, and 
fenders. They'd clear the fenders but not without lightly rubbing on top of 
the fenders when pulled. Very tight fit. I went back to regular cantis to 
gain fender clearance both above and below.


On Friday, March 2, 2018 at 8:12:03 PM UTC-6, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I've seen quite a few Rivs with various Paul brakes and I'm really curious 
> how big a slick anyone has used with the Mini Moto.  I know Paul states a 
> 45mm maximum tire width but I don't know if that includes knobbies or if 
> the knobbies add to that.  He has a video showing the brake works with a 
> 50mm fender but I have no idea how fender width and tire width compare.   
>
>
>

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[RBW] 1x10 with BE or Gevenalle?

[Leaf Slayer]

Haven't chimed in here in a long long time. Curious what folks think. I'm a 
longtime fan of BE shifters so quite familiar with them. I'm getting ready 
to convert my Surly Ogre from a Jones Bar to a Cowchipper with a 70mm VO 
Cigne Stem. I'm running a 10spd Shimano SLX derailer. I'm leaning toward 
Gevenalle but curious what folks thoughts and experience are with them. I 
like the Jones bars well enough but really want to try the Cowchippers on 
the Ogre. The stem gets them in the right place with what should be 
appropriate extension. I spend more time on dirt roads on this bike than 
technical singletrack so it should be fine. 

This set-up seems takes a leap of faith as the steerer will be cut down to 
an otherwise useless length for me. I'm hopeful this set-up will work for 
me. If not... well, looks like I'll be purchasing a new fork. Don't let 
anyone tell you threaded steerer tubes and quill stems don't have their 
place.

Feel free to contact me if you happen to have some Gevenalle shifters for 
sale (long pull, 10x1, Shimano DynaShift).

Thanks!

--mike

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bag for Bullmoose?

[Drw]

rack and basket and you'll never look back. 

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[RBW] Surly Tuggnut on SimpleOne?

[tc]

Has anyone used a Surly Tuggnut 
 tensioner?  
If not, what gadget or method have you found useful that requires only 2 
hands to properly tension a single speed chain?  I watched this pretty good 
video  by Park Tool.Being new to setting up a 
single speed, getting tension right was a bit of a four-handed chore.  
Hoping the Tuggnut or something similar will help.  Thanks for any wisdom!

Tom











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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones brake choices

[RichS]

Mark, that's a classy caliper & lever set. We had a couple of Takaras in 
the 80s; kinda wish we had kept them. I'd love to see some pics when you 
get the Takara set up.

Best,
Richard



On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 10:30:16 AM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Funny, I guess Dia Compe was fairly loose with the designation Gran Compe. 
> I have a set of 750s that have the regular Dia Compe arms, as opposed to 
> the Mafac orientation. The calipers in this set have been on my Le Tour 
> mixte, while the levers are on my Takara; planning to reunite the two on 
> the Takara this spring. I know Bicycle Quarterly considers the Dia Compe 
> inferior to the Mafac design, but I really like the old DC centerpulls.
>
>
> 
>
>
> *Full photo set of the Dia Compe Gran Compe* 750s:  
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/jq1qNBvSsDM1h2Je2
>
> On Friday, March 2, 2018 at 6:14:12 PM UTC-5, Leif Eckstrom wrote:
>>
>> Cool. Standard reach gran Compe centerpulls are rare enough. I had no 
> idea there was a long reach version. Is it something like 55-70 mm reach? 
> Looks fantastic
> Thanks, 
> Leif
>
> Chicago 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Flickstand alternatives? How to keep the front stable while not moving?

[Kainalu V.]

This is my strap system control node, I make them by sticking two sticky 
velcros together. Very useful for almost everything, but yes, not a 
dedicated system. The thing I worry about with a steering lock system so 
easily put in place is that it's a steering lock system so easily put in 
place. If a twig decides to flip the thing down while in a turn, I'm not 
turning the other way without some trouble, or scarier yet is the notion of 
a locking headset. Anything mechanical will break or malfunction at some 
point along the line, that's why I worry so.
Safe travels
-Kai
BK NY


On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 10:52:43 PM UTC-5, Kiley DeMond wrote:
>
> I favor the options that require going NOTHING additional at each time it 
> is called into use. Oops, forgot my water bottle. Am I going to pull out a 
> strap or a bungee to dash back in and grab it? No, and I bet you wouldn't 
> either; you would let your wheel flop over. And yet, that not happening was 
> the entire point. 
>
> I used to use the little bungee; it didn’t work consistently and I had to 
> make sure those sharp ends were adjusted away from painted surfaces. What a 
> PITA to do at the library, again at the P.O., the store, to stop while 
> talking to friends. 
>
> It seems one can do a complicated solution once or a simple thing over and 
> over and over. I suspect the former solution will appeal to commuters and 
> those with more stops, and the latter will appeal to those who ride long 
> distances for exercise and stop maybe once or twice. Wheel stabilizers are 
> common on Dutch work bikes and non-existent on cyclocross bikes. 
>
> Both solutions have merit and it is up to the rider to decide what works 
> for him or her and reserve judgment. 
> -- 
>
> On March 4, 2018 at 8:25:24 PM, Kainalu V. (kaivi...@gmail.com 
> ) wrote:
>
>> Yup, I'm surprised at the love of relatively complex gear options when a 
>> scrap of velcro, or, as you said, a toe strap, work wonders for this and so 
>> much more. Tournequet?, Done. Pant leg band?, Done. Bind that brake lever 
>> with a fashionable bandanna?, Ruling the school... 
>> -Kai 
>> BK NY 
>>
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[RBW] Re: Atlantis maiden voyage

[Brent P]

They're the perfect fit for the Atlantis. Very comfortable. I had the 
Albatross on my Appaloosa and they are a better match for the Atlantis. If 
anything I might like them just a touch wider. The Jones bar on the 
Appaloosa spoils me with that wide open reach.

Now, of course that won't stop me from playing musical handlebars and try 
the Choco,  Bosco and a few other ideas I have sitting on the shelf.

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 7:27:27 AM UTC-6, Rusty Click wrote:
>
> Such a great looking build!  I am taking notes while waiting for my own, a 
> 62, to arrive sometime late in the summer.  How do you like the Albatross 
> bars?
>
> Rusty
> Pgh, PA
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis maiden voyage

[dougP]

Brent:

Congratulations!  Looks like a nice build, with all the right goodies.  
You'll enjoy it for many years.

dougP

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 6:14:16 PM UTC-8, Brent P wrote:
>
> Finished the final buildup details last night and couldn’t wait any 
> longer. It was cool, cloudy and blustery winds, but felt good to get out 
> and shake out any bugs and fine tune the settings. Frameset came from 
> another member of the bunch and was in great (new) condition. Thankful for 
> getting a dream bike sooner than I anticipated. But out of the gate and 8 
> miles later, this bike is amazing. Smooth, responsive, and FUN. It’s so 
> much fun being on a bike that FITS and becomes an extension of you going 
> down the road. 
>
> I’ve been lurking around this group almost daily for many months - 
> learning, researching, and getting tons of ideas. Thank you for this 
> collection and sharing your practical bike knowledge! 
>
> https://flic.kr/p/24Q7WPJ 
> https://flic.kr/p/228UHDy 
> https://flic.kr/p/GL3pjf 
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis maiden voyage

[RichS]

Looks really good! Congratulations and welcome to the Atlantis club.

Regards,
Richard

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 9:14:16 PM UTC-5, Brent P wrote:
>
> Finished the final buildup details last night and couldn’t wait any 
> longer. It was cool, cloudy and blustery winds, but felt good to get out 
> and shake out any bugs and fine tune the settings. Frameset came from 
> another member of the bunch and was in great (new) condition. Thankful for 
> getting a dream bike sooner than I anticipated. But out of the gate and 8 
> miles later, this bike is amazing. Smooth, responsive, and FUN. It’s so 
> much fun being on a bike that FITS and becomes an extension of you going 
> down the road. 
>
> I’ve been lurking around this group almost daily for many months - 
> learning, researching, and getting tons of ideas. Thank you for this 
> collection and sharing your practical bike knowledge! 
>
> https://flic.kr/p/24Q7WPJ 
> https://flic.kr/p/228UHDy 
> https://flic.kr/p/GL3pjf 
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bag for Bullmoose?

[lconley]

Jandd Mountain Handle Pack I is designed to sit on top of the BullMoose 
triangle. I have two of them - work great on the Bullmoose and BoscoMoose.

Laing
Cocoa FL

On Monday, March 5, 2018 at 9:56:03 AM UTC-5, Tim wrote:

> I have Bullmoose bars on my Hunqapillar. My Hilsen and MAP both have rando 
> front bags on decaleurs. They have totally spoiled me and I find myself not 
> choosing the Hunq, even when it is the more appropriate bike, because I 
> only have a saddlebag, thus no access while riding. Is there a good bag 
> that works for Bullmoose bars?

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[RBW] Re: Paul Mini moto real world clearances

[phil k]

did you have to pinch the st

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 11:04:07 PM UTC-5, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> I’ve cleared the 700x48 Soma supple vitesse tires with minimotos, but that 
> was with all the spacers to the inside of the brake arms. Still worked ok, 
> but ymmv.

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[RBW] Handlebar bag for Bullmoose?

[Joe Bernard]

A Bartube works well on Bullmoose bars. Riv doesn't make them anymore, but 
there's one on eBay. 

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[RBW] Handlebar bag for Bullmoose?

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I have Bullmoose bars on my Hunqapillar. My Hilsen and MAP both have rando 
front bags on decaleurs. They have totally spoiled me and I find myself not 
choosing the Hunq, even when it is the more appropriate bike, because I only 
have a saddlebag, thus no access while riding. Is there a good bag that works 
for Bullmoose bars?

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis maiden voyage

[Rusty Click]

Such a great looking build!  I am taking notes while waiting for my own, a 
62, to arrive sometime late in the summer.  How do you like the Albatross 
bars?

Rusty
Pgh, PA

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 9:14:16 PM UTC-5, Brent P wrote:
>
> Finished the final buildup details last night and couldn’t wait any 
> longer. It was cool, cloudy and blustery winds, but felt good to get out 
> and shake out any bugs and fine tune the settings. Frameset came from 
> another member of the bunch and was in great (new) condition. Thankful for 
> getting a dream bike sooner than I anticipated. But out of the gate and 8 
> miles later, this bike is amazing. Smooth, responsive, and FUN. It’s so 
> much fun being on a bike that FITS and becomes an extension of you going 
> down the road. 
>
> I’ve been lurking around this group almost daily for many months - 
> learning, researching, and getting tons of ideas. Thank you for this 
> collection and sharing your practical bike knowledge! 
>
> https://flic.kr/p/24Q7WPJ 
> https://flic.kr/p/228UHDy 
> https://flic.kr/p/GL3pjf 
>

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Re: [RBW] OT - Throwback

[ascpgh]

No pick up games around here, despite two fields couple blocks either way. 
Kids and baseball mean minivans and gear bags full of multiple three digit 
aluminum bats, Oakley eyeshades,  special water bottles, coolers with 
Gatorade, latest model cleats, etc. but nothing as sophisticated as a 
Nocona glove. Another fun sport that used to be easy and not require 
parents to play lost to the arms race.

The good thing is that my neighbor's oldest, who I've taken to his games, 
rode with to to the Bike to Baseball Pirates game (and to Ohiopyle via the 
GAP on both the tandem and singles), and sat in the ED waiting for the ENT 
physician after catching a throw to third in the nose while sliding into 
third on a steal on his 13th birthday is trying out for his high school's 
baseball team this afternoon. Despite the distractions of material and 
parental involvement, he gets it and really wants to play at the next 
level. 

Andy Cheatham
Pitttsburgh

On Sunday, March 4, 2018 at 4:09:14 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I recall the days of curved-top-tube cruisers and leather ball gloves; age 
> circa 7-8, and my cruiser was a JC Higgins with 24" wheels; a basement 
> model with no chrome: white bar and rims. But that bike was still at home 
> when I left at 18, and we'd all thrashed it, and it never, ever got any 
> maintenance. I think my glove was a department store glove, too, but I 
> recall loving the feel of the leather and the way it fit my hand during the 
> pickup games in the dirt lot across the street from our house.
>
> Does anyone play baseball any more? In those days -- early '60s -- 
> baseball was, as far as I remember, *the* big sport, and we kids played 
> it as a matter of course -- no sissy softballs, either; always a 
> "hardball". My parents didn't buy us gum, but I recall other boys swapping 
> the baseball cards inserted in the packages.
>
> Is baseball still a major sport? Do elementary school-age boys still play 
> baseball in vacant lots, as opposed to parent-dictated Little League and 
> company or church softball leagues?
>
> On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 7:16 AM, MartyG > 
> wrote:
>
>> Years ago, not sure when, Grant introduced me (and whoever was around 
>> then) to a company called Nocona - a Texas company that makes ball gloves. 
>> Might have been an early reader article. Such a cool story, and they are 
>> alive and well today. Good for them! I don't have one. Yet. But years ago a 
>> leather glove hanging from my bars was an everyday thing. 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Go Nocona!
>>
>> 
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=358&v=K3P3gSCSKlI
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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