Re: [RBW] Platypus Mods

[Jon Dukeman]

Thanks...i found it at Rib.
Jon

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 9:28 PM Richard Borneman  wrote:

> Kate, the bars are wide Boscos. Jon, the rack is a Nitto Basket rack.
>
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 9:35:21 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 7:04 PM David Person  wrote:
>>
>>> Though not identical, a SimWorks Obento rack is similar.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:59:16 PM UTC-7 row.n.2...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Who makes the front rack?
 Jon

 On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 3:52 AM Richard Borneman  wrote:

> Last Saturday was rainy around here. I spent most of the day making
> some changes on my Platy.
>  Swapped out the wheels, Schmidt front, White ind. rear, Mavic A719
> rims. New tires, Soma Vitesse 700x42's. Added Paul cross levers. I like to
> hold the bars in the center going downhill and feel a lot safer with brake
> levers under my hands. Lots of deer in the State park where I ride and 
> I've
> almost had a couple collisions on downhills.
> I installed lights. Eldelux 2 front, B tail light and fenders. V.O
> 63mm fluted.
> Took me most of the day but it turned out pretty good. Photos attached.
> Took her out for a ride on Sunday. Picked up a dozen ears of Maryland
> sweet corm. The more I ride this bike, the more I like it.
> Before and after shots of the bars. Added Ergon grips too. Moved the
> bell to the stem.
> I like to hold the bars forward of the shifters sometimes.
> Richard
> [image: IMG_3396.JPG][image: IMG_3391.JPG][image: IMG_3394.JPG][image:
> IMG_3395.JPG][image: IMG_3397.JPG]
>
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Re: [RBW] Platypus Mods

[Richard Borneman]

Kate, the bars are wide Boscos. Jon, the rack is a Nitto Basket rack.

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 9:35:21 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thank you!
>
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 7:04 PM David Person  wrote:
>
>> Though not identical, a SimWorks Obento rack is similar.
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:59:16 PM UTC-7 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Who makes the front rack?
>>> Jon
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 3:52 AM Richard Borneman  wrote:
>>>
 Last Saturday was rainy around here. I spent most of the day making 
 some changes on my Platy.
  Swapped out the wheels, Schmidt front, White ind. rear, Mavic A719 
 rims. New tires, Soma Vitesse 700x42's. Added Paul cross levers. I like to 
 hold the bars in the center going downhill and feel a lot safer with brake 
 levers under my hands. Lots of deer in the State park where I ride and 
 I've 
 almost had a couple collisions on downhills.
 I installed lights. Eldelux 2 front, B tail light and fenders. V.O 
 63mm fluted.
 Took me most of the day but it turned out pretty good. Photos attached.
 Took her out for a ride on Sunday. Picked up a dozen ears of Maryland 
 sweet corm. The more I ride this bike, the more I like it.
 Before and after shots of the bars. Added Ergon grips too. Moved the 
 bell to the stem.
 I like to hold the bars forward of the shifters sometimes.
 Richard
 [image: IMG_3396.JPG][image: IMG_3391.JPG][image: IMG_3394.JPG][image: 
 IMG_3395.JPG][image: IMG_3397.JPG]

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 .

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Re: [RBW] To My Platypus People!

[Christian B-H]

Paul- Sorry for the delay! It's a Soma Demi Porteur rack purchased on sale 
from Analog 
Cycles. https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/demi-porteur-rack

I appreciate it's 10kg / 22lb weight limit for grocery-getting. It works 
well on the platypus with a wald 317 zip tied on. 

On Thursday, June 30, 2022 at 9:22:27 AM UTC-6 Paul Clifton wrote:

> Hey Christian,
> Awesome bike and a really nice ride! What rack is that on the front? Is is 
> the M18? It looks bigger. I'd like something similar for a basket on my 
> Gus, but haven't found the perfect thing just yet.
>
> Paul in AR
>
> On Wednesday, June 29, 2022 at 1:58:06 PM UTC-5 bei...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello to all my Platypus People!
>>
>>  As I mentioned in my original new-to-me PlatyPose post, when I first saw 
>> the all-black Platypus build from Crust, I was *inspired. *Then I 
>> happened upon Heather in NC’s post of her Pumpkin Platy with Continental 
>> Kings and *knew *step 1 for the mermaid platy would be all-black tires. 
>> As I bought it with grocery’s and future-baby-hauling in mind, I did want 
>> something that would roll reasonably on asphalt, but definitely something 
>> more robust than the original Shikoros, so 50mm Maxxis Ramblers it was. 
>>
>> Today I though of Leah P.’s tire-change story and flat fiasco followed by 
>> Adam Leibow of Calling in Sick Magazine and his article, “A Mechanics Guide 
>> to Romance” and was inspired. With my neighbors tools and advice, I 
>> de-fendered and un-Shikoro’d the platypus before adding the Ramblers. 
>>
>> That  done, I set out today in a sear-sucker plaid short sleave, andiamos 
>> beneath my regular shorts, and bedrock sandals- Bike Bedecked with a 
>> Simworks Bag and all!
>>
>> I picked up some spare chain links at University Bicycles here in 
>> Boulder, the last item I needed for my repair kit, and then set off North 
>> along the foothills and Wonderland Lake Trail. I took a gamble on some new 
>> miles on “Hogback Ridge” which was every bit as mountain bike-worthy as the 
>> name suggests. 
>>
>> Despite many a foot-down, steps walked, and pedal strikes on sizeable 
>> rocks, it was a blast picking my way up and down the Ridge, then under the 
>> 2 lane highway that connects Boulder with Lyons, and onto some single and 
>> double track in Boulder Valley Ranch north of town sandwiched between 36 
>> and the Boulder Reservoir. It was a trail I’d only ever done on my much 
>> shorter, 650b x 47mm setup Kona Rove gravel bike. That handled fine, but 
>> it’s not nearly as fun feeling or “planted” as the Platypus, with which I 
>> felt I could totally surf through the corners and really lean back on some 
>> steeper sections without feeling like I was going to endo.
>>
>> The 50mm tires did great despite some close-rim strikes, the long chain 
>> stays smoothed out frequent bumps on the trails, and the upright position 
>> made me feel much safer shakily pointing my platypus down a few rock-strewn 
>> hills. Plus, being able to jump off *forwards* when stuck climbing was a 
>> huge bonus. 
>>
>> Alas, I realized I had a flattening rear tire almost as soon as I 
>> re-found the asphalt and was winding my way through a residential 
>> neighborhood. Stopping to confirm the fact, my heart sank when I realized 
>> that the chain links were *not* the last tool I needed for my repair 
>> kit. I’d forgotten to put my hand pump and/or C02 cartridges back in the 
>> saddle bag. It’s great to *know *how to fix a flat and patch a tube, but 
>> it’s no use if you don’t have any way of getting air into it…
>>
>> Rather than attempting to inflate the presta valve like a balloon, I 
>> decided my best bet was to press onwards as the air level dwindled and see 
>> if anyone was in their driveway to ask about using a pump. Wouldn’t you 
>> know, at about 5:30 in the afternoon it just so happened that one of the 
>> first houses I passed featured a man who looked to be in his 60’s in his 
>> driveway who responded to my query with a cheerful affirmation. 
>>
>> I spent about 10minutes or so changing the flat. As I returned the pump, 
>> I noticed a beautiful metallic-tangerine Schwinn Mixte in the garage (think 
>> Bleriot or Romulus Riv blue, but in a tangerine/mandarin color). 
>>
>> “What a beautiful bike!” I complimented, “Reminds me a bit of mine!” as I 
>> gestured down the steep drive to my Platypus at the bottom.
>>
>> “Oh, thanks, yeah it’s my wife’s. She’s had it *since college! *We 
>> almost sold it at a tag sale, but when someone told us how valuable it was, 
>> we decided to keep it,” he replied. Turns out, instead of the $100 they 
>> were selling it for, they think it could be worth 200 or 300 dollars. 
>>
>> Feeling slightly uncomfortable about the price comparison of our two 
>> mixtes, but inspired by the Schwinn’s beauty I said, “Really? It’s a 
>> gorgeous bike. What size is it?”
>>
>> “It’s a woman’s bike,” he said. “I don’t really know.”  
>>
>> Realizing that delivering a 

[RBW] FS: 56 Bombadil double top tube

[Jim M.]

Up for sale is my Bombadil, which was a prototype I bought from Riv. It was 
originally in bare steel but in 2019 an errant stick bent the derailer 
hanger. RBW sent it to Steve Rex to be straightened and aligned, and then 
it went to D for the paint job.   Here's a pic from Shell Ridge:
https://flickr.com/photos/20986098@N04/49681704486/in/pool-bombadil/

This is a 56cm with a 584 wheelset built by Rich. I'm 6'1" with an 89.5 
PBH, and it's always felt a little smaller than ideal for me. Riv Silver 
double crank 34x24, Shimano derailers, 9-sp cassette, Microshift thumbies 
(really nice friction shifting), Nitto UI-12 stem with Jones loop bars.

Asking $3000 and priority goes to local transaction.

cheers
jim mather
walnut creek

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[RBW] Re: Observations on the Platypus ride

[Joe Bernard]

I believe it. I just saw a pic of Leah (Bicycle Belle Ding Ding) on 
Instagram with her group riders all on carbon road bikes and am 
consistently impressed that she keeps up (and sometimes leads) with them. 
Yes she's strong, but that's still a lot to ask of a steel upright mixte. 
Platypuses are quickl! 

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 6:02:14 PM UTC-7 Jay LePree wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I am not one, nor have been one to really notice significant differences 
> between bicycles, and I have owned to date a wide variety.  Carera steel 
> lugged Italian racer, Lightspeed Capella racer, Ibis Haka monster cross, 
> Rivendell Rambouillet, and now am down to my two last bikes, a Spot Brand 
> Champa and my Platypus after selling all the others over the years.   
> Well, after riding my Platypus for a year, I took it into the shop for a 
> once over, and started to ride my Spot brand Champa.  I instantly felt that 
> I had to "fight" the Champa to move forward.  I had not experienced this 
> before in swapping from one bike to another.  This even included moving 
> from the Ibis to the Spot Brand Champa and from the Carrera to the 
> Rambouillet.  I feel like I am riding through mud on the Champa.  
>
> Interesting enough, My brother in law rides my Platypus once in a while 
> and has made the comment that he finds it easier to pedal it forward on 
> flats and even up hills than his bicycle or his son's bicycle. 
>
> I don't think it is a placebo effect as I have not felt this in swapping 
> between bikes before.  The Platypus, at least to me, seems to be easier to 
> move forward.  
>
> Kind regards,
> Jay LePree
> Demarest, NJ
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[esoterica etc]

Hey Daniel,

I have a set of Paul Racers with TRP RRL levers on my Soma San Marcos
(Riv-made and very similar to an AHH), and a set of the Tektro 559s with
Shimano 600 non-aero levers on my Schwinn World Voyageur set up as a double
single-speed bike.

I've taken the Schwinn on roads where I've gotten right around 30 mph (~72
gear inches), as well as some singletrack (~49 gear inches), and the
Tektros slow and stop just fine for me. I am running 700c wheels on the
Schwinn and the brake pads are just about halfway down in the slots, so I
do have a bit more mechanical advantage than someone running 650b wheels
with the pads at the very bottom of the slots.

Having said that, the Paul Racers are much better in my opinion. Even
though the Racers are almost maxed out at the bottom of the slots on the
San Marcos (650b wheels), they have much more power than the Tektros
at mid-slot. The Racers also have a solidity to them when engaging, and for
me they're very confidence-inspiring. I'm extremely happy with my Racers
and would highly recommend them (if you can find them). All the best,

~Mark
Raleigh, NC

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 4:55 PM Daniel MacPherson 
wrote:

>
> Are the Paul Racer brakes better? I’m tempted to buy the latest Crust road
> bike in the near future but I don’t want to run 559s or Mafacs.
>
> I know they’ve been discontinued but I’m sure over the next 6 months, a
> couple will pop-up on Ebay or the ibob community.
>
> Daniel M
> Tallahassee Fl
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 3:23 PM Josiah Anderson 
> wrote:
>
>> I agree with Eric and others who find the 559s lacking in stopping power.
>> They're more or less good enough in dry conditions, but if it's wet, not so
>> much, and they're even worse in the snow. One of my scariest bike
>> experiences ever was on a 650b conversion of an old Trek with 559s (with
>> salmon pads), coming down a long hill with a busy intersection at the
>> bottom. It was raining, and having recently switched to the Tektros from
>> Mafac Racers, I was expecting my brakes to work, but they didn't. I went
>> through the intersection at probably 35mph, and I managed to make the turn
>> and somehow there were no cars, but it still freaked me out. The 559s don't
>> seem to be able to squeeze hard enough to create enough friction to dry off
>> wet rims in a revolution or two like most other (good) rim brakes do, so
>> they just keep skating on top of the layer of water. Same deal for ice,
>> although there are fewer brakes that do well with that.
>>
>> I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride
>> in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and
>> freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the
>> wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this
>> pattern.
>>
>> (Apologies if this post comes through late- I post frequently on IBOB but
>> not as much here so might not have Cyclofiend Jim's approval to post).
>>
>> Josiah Anderson
>> Missoula, MT
>>
>> Le lun. 11 juil. 2022 à 15:52, Cyclofiend Jim  a
>> écrit :
>>
>>> I must ride a lot slower than all's y'all's... but I've honestly never
>>> had any trouble with my brakes on my AHH. I use the original standard
>>> Shimano Lever  that shipped with it in aught-seven (probably discontinued)
>>> on a set of Noodle bars. They don't bottom out at full pressure and the
>>> wheel will skid.
>>>
>>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc522-cyclofiend_jim0908.html
>>>
>>> - Jim
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 3:41:01 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Laing: Forgive me if you've posted some before, but if not, I'd be
 delighted to see photos of your Riv custom "racing bike." 53.4 X 62?? What
 sort of bar? Me, I fit almost the diametrical opposite: 60 X 56 c-c for a
 drop-bar bike.

 To all: I've found this discussion interesting, both regarding braking
 effectiveness and road bike aesthetics. I have to say that I myself would
 prefer cantis or V brakes, or braze-on centerpulls instead of what appear
 to me clunky very-long reach calipers on a "gofast" road bike if medium
 reach calipers didn't work; and in fact, I've seen a number of custom or
 high-end production road bikes from before WWII built for cantilever
 brakes. I think a great many of these were on the Classics Rendezvous and
 Classic Lightweights UK websites.

 IME, I tend to agree with those who say that almost all brakes work
 decently, if not brilliantly, if properly set up, and if the levers are
 appropriate to the brakes proper. I know that my otherwise wonderful
 second-gen (? The tab-operated cam) Dura Ace single pivots worked badly,
 even with salmons, pulled by 7410-era levers, while the single pivot (high
 end DC? Superbe Pro?) 57 mm reach single pivot on the gofast pulled by the
 same levers works very well indeed, for power and for modulation.

 On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 10:34 

Re: [RBW] Platypus Mods

[Jon Dukeman]

Thank you!

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 7:04 PM David Person  wrote:

> Though not identical, a SimWorks Obento rack is similar.
>
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:59:16 PM UTC-7 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Who makes the front rack?
>> Jon
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 3:52 AM Richard Borneman  wrote:
>>
>>> Last Saturday was rainy around here. I spent most of the day making some
>>> changes on my Platy.
>>>  Swapped out the wheels, Schmidt front, White ind. rear, Mavic A719
>>> rims. New tires, Soma Vitesse 700x42's. Added Paul cross levers. I like to
>>> hold the bars in the center going downhill and feel a lot safer with brake
>>> levers under my hands. Lots of deer in the State park where I ride and I've
>>> almost had a couple collisions on downhills.
>>> I installed lights. Eldelux 2 front, B tail light and fenders. V.O
>>> 63mm fluted.
>>> Took me most of the day but it turned out pretty good. Photos attached.
>>> Took her out for a ride on Sunday. Picked up a dozen ears of Maryland
>>> sweet corm. The more I ride this bike, the more I like it.
>>> Before and after shots of the bars. Added Ergon grips too. Moved the
>>> bell to the stem.
>>> I like to hold the bars forward of the shifters sometimes.
>>> Richard
>>> [image: IMG_3396.JPG][image: IMG_3391.JPG][image: IMG_3394.JPG][image:
>>> IMG_3395.JPG][image: IMG_3397.JPG]
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c9642f74-abd2-494c-9e95-30194dc31d44n%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[J J]

Great idea. Thank you. Mind my asking what sort of vinyl tubing that is, 
and where one would get it?

I have already ordered a couple of cans of clear Plasti Dip to use on a new 
Wald basket.

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 8:42:24 PM UTC-4 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:

> FWIW, I've alway used 2" - 3" lengths of clear vinyl tubing, sliced 
> lengthwise and slipped over the rack tubing as a buffer between the basket 
> and rack.  Cuts down on any rattling too.
>
> [image: IMG_3212.jpg]
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:16:33 PM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>
>> Thanks, all. I'm learning a lot — I had no idea about sacrificial zinc 
>> coatings or the difference between plating and galvanizing. I appreciate 
>> the explanation, Wesley and Aaron.
>>
>> Aaron, about fenders, I should have said I was installing a *new* set — 
>> I've always had fenders on my Hunq. I got wider tires and needed bigger 
>> fenders to accommodate them. The old fenders were rubbing. I am on the East 
>> Coast, so we do have a lot of wet weather. But still, I really don't get 
>> why this one rusted so much. 
>>
>> Anyway, yes, I've more than gotten my money's worth, Jon. I will recycle 
>> Laing! I'm not concerned about the money to replace it; I just want to 
>> avert it happening again. The pitting on the rack from the rust is 
>> annoying. I'll either clean the old basket or get a new one and do Plasti 
>> Dip. Thanks for the suggestion, Garth. I checked it out and yes, the 
>> colors! I had no idea abut the variety.
>>
>> Thanks again everyone! 
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 4:30:47 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Now this is a solution! I would go ahead and get a new Wald and 
>>> plasti-dip it, as Jon said, you have gotten your money out of this one.
>>>
>>> Bonus is that plasti-dip is available in colors! You can dip your brake 
>>> levers to match your basket and..
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 4:25:07 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>
 After either cleaning or a replacement, there's always that plasti dip 
 stuff. I've read of someone doing it before after cleaning a rust Wald 
 with 
 Dawn and steel wool. It not only seals the steel, it would provide some 
 grip and it wouldn't make any noise or grind away at a rack if it's 
 sitting 
 on one. The liquid or the spray would work. 



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Re: [RBW] Platypus Mods

[David Person]

Though not identical, a SimWorks Obento rack is similar.

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:59:16 PM UTC-7 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Who makes the front rack?
> Jon
>
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 3:52 AM Richard Borneman  wrote:
>
>> Last Saturday was rainy around here. I spent most of the day making some 
>> changes on my Platy.
>>  Swapped out the wheels, Schmidt front, White ind. rear, Mavic A719 rims. 
>> New tires, Soma Vitesse 700x42's. Added Paul cross levers. I like to hold 
>> the bars in the center going downhill and feel a lot safer with brake 
>> levers under my hands. Lots of deer in the State park where I ride and I've 
>> almost had a couple collisions on downhills.
>> I installed lights. Eldelux 2 front, B tail light and fenders. V.O 63mm 
>> fluted.
>> Took me most of the day but it turned out pretty good. Photos attached.
>> Took her out for a ride on Sunday. Picked up a dozen ears of Maryland 
>> sweet corm. The more I ride this bike, the more I like it.
>> Before and after shots of the bars. Added Ergon grips too. Moved the bell 
>> to the stem.
>> I like to hold the bars forward of the shifters sometimes.
>> Richard
>> [image: IMG_3396.JPG][image: IMG_3391.JPG][image: IMG_3394.JPG][image: 
>> IMG_3395.JPG][image: IMG_3397.JPG]
>>
>> -- 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
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[RBW] Observations on the Platypus ride

[Jay LePree]

Hi all:

I am not one, nor have been one to really notice significant differences 
between bicycles, and I have owned to date a wide variety.  Carera steel 
lugged Italian racer, Lightspeed Capella racer, Ibis Haka monster cross, 
Rivendell Rambouillet, and now am down to my two last bikes, a Spot Brand 
Champa and my Platypus after selling all the others over the years.   
Well, after riding my Platypus for a year, I took it into the shop for a 
once over, and started to ride my Spot brand Champa.  I instantly felt that 
I had to "fight" the Champa to move forward.  I had not experienced this 
before in swapping from one bike to another.  This even included moving 
from the Ibis to the Spot Brand Champa and from the Carrera to the 
Rambouillet.  I feel like I am riding through mud on the Champa.  

Interesting enough, My brother in law rides my Platypus once in a while and 
has made the comment that he finds it easier to pedal it forward on flats 
and even up hills than his bicycle or his son's bicycle. 

I don't think it is a placebo effect as I have not felt this in swapping 
between bikes before.  The Platypus, at least to me, seems to be easier to 
move forward.  

Kind regards,
Jay LePree
Demarest, NJ

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[David Person]

I have 559s (with salmon Yokozuna pads) on my Hillborne.  When I built up a 
second bike for wetter conditions I went with a Surly Disc Trucker with 
Yokozuna Ultimo hybrid disc brakes.  I have to say that the difference in 
braking feel and performance, even in dry conditions, is quite noticeable.  
I wasn't sure about disc brakes, but I'm a convert.  I do notice that rims 
with machined sidewalls (like Velocity Quill or Dyad rims) do improve the 
performance of the 559s vs non-machined like Velo Orange Voyager rims.  I'm 
using the same brake lever on both bikes, what Riv used to sell as the 
Tektro Mtn Lever (FL540).

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 2:25:04 PM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 2:23:48 PM UTC-5 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>
>> I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride 
>> in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and 
>> freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the 
>> wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this 
>> pattern. 
>>
>
> Well, sample n=1, I did many a winter commute in Wisconsin with them and 
> never had a problem.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[J J]

Thanks, all. I'm learning a lot — I had no idea about sacrificial zinc 
coatings or the difference between plating and galvanizing. I appreciate 
the explanation, Wesley and Aaron.

Aaron, about fenders, I should have said I was installing a *new* set — 
I've always had fenders on my Hunq. I got wider tires and needed bigger 
fenders to accommodate them. The old fenders were rubbing. I am on the East 
Coast, so we do have a lot of wet weather. But still, I really don't get 
why this one rusted so much. 

Anyway, yes, I've more than gotten my money's worth, Jon. I will recycle 
Laing! I'm not concerned about the money to replace it; I just want to 
avert it happening again. The pitting on the rack from the rust is 
annoying. I'll either clean the old basket or get a new one and do Plasti 
Dip. Thanks for the suggestion, Garth. I checked it out and yes, the 
colors! I had no idea abut the variety.

Thanks again everyone! 

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 4:30:47 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Now this is a solution! I would go ahead and get a new Wald and plasti-dip 
> it, as Jon said, you have gotten your money out of this one.
>
> Bonus is that plasti-dip is available in colors! You can dip your brake 
> levers to match your basket and..
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 4:25:07 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> After either cleaning or a replacement, there's always that plasti dip 
>> stuff. I've read of someone doing it before after cleaning a rust Wald with 
>> Dawn and steel wool. It not only seals the steel, it would provide some 
>> grip and it wouldn't make any noise or grind away at a rack if it's sitting 
>> on one. The liquid or the spray would work. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS Nitto Cro-Mo Bosco Bullmoose Bars

[Wayne Naha]

Bars are sold!

On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 5:28:43 PM UTC-4 Wayne Naha wrote:

> Sale Pending.
> Thank you to all who showed interest.  I had no idea how popular these 
> would turn out to be.
>
> On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 12:08:05 PM UTC-4 Joe A. wrote:
>
>> PM'd!
>>
>> On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 12:53:32 PM UTC-7 Wayne Naha wrote:
>>
>>> Forgot to add:  These are the 56 cm version.
>>>
>>> On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 2:54:05 PM UTC-4 Wayne Naha wrote:
>>>
 Any interest in a Nitto Cro-Mo Bosco Bullmoose bar?  These were 
 original equipment on my Clem.  Now they can be yours for a fraction of 
 the 
 price of new bars.  They are in excellent condition, with no scratches, 
 dents or other problems.  Unmodified in any way.  Riv website lists them 
 at 
 $226 here 
 ,
  
 and they're out of stock.  $150.00 plus shipping.  Happy to provide 
 additional photos upon request. 
  [image: bullmoose_4.jpg][image: bullmoose_1.jpg]

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Mechanical: Bent rapid rise derailer cage

[Daniel MacPherson]

Any sign of an accident? Maybe a bunch of scrapes along the pulley cage. If 
it’s that bent you would expect some visible damage. But i would exhaust 
all other options before trying to straighten the pulley cage. I’ve never 
done it. It strikes me as very difficult to do it without damaging the rest 
of the derailleur.



Daniel M 

Tallahassee Fl
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:27:45 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Also on the checklist of things to check: the bolt for XTR rear mechs is 
> aluminum.  If a previous installer cross threaded it, it's pretty easy for 
> the steel of the dropout to kind of rethread that bolt in that crooked 
> orientation, if the previous installer was pretty ham-handed.  If that were 
> the case, the "bend" would be in the bolt, and "bending" the cage in the 
> bench vise would be a case of two wrongs trying to make a right.
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 2:08:37 PM UTC-7 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Can't tell by the picture..
>> Have you checked your derailleur hanger alignment
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 1:15 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> Hey hey hey everyone. I recently picked up a Shimano XTR rapid rise 
>>> mech, the M951. When it came in the mail all seemed good to go. Nice and 
>>> clean! But I went to install it on my Appaloosa and found the cage is out 
>>> of alignment. Picture attached. The pulley wheels are not vertically 
>>> aligned with the cogs of the cassette.
>>>
>>> I had a 2021 Deore rear mech on the bike when I started, it was working 
>>> fine. I ended up putting a XTR M952 on the bike and it works great! So the 
>>> issue is definitely with this rapid rise XTR. 
>>>
>>> Can anyone recommend a fix for this? I wanted to check with the group, 
>>> seek some wisdom, before I mounted the mech in my bench vise and started 
>>> torquing. 
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> [image: s-l1600.jpg]
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] For Sale: Shimano Dura Ace 11 Speed bar end shifters

[Ben Adrian]

Dura Ace 2/3 x 11 bar end / tri / time trial shifters. Left friction. Right 
is index only. should work with 5800, 6800, 7000, 8000 and whatever number 
Dura Ace called their 11 speed Rear Derailleurs. It will also work with 
Tiagra 4700 RD if paired with an 11 speed cassette.

I got this crazy idea to run an 11 speed setup on my Riv. I started buying 
parts. After doing some reconfigurations, I have decided to go in another 
direction.

I got these used and never installed them. Shifters, original box, one 
housing, one cable, cable stops, other misc. stuff. It's what I got from 
the previous seller.
$85 shipped

Photos Here:
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=284654

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[RBW] Re: Rosco Platy!

[Doug H.]

I like both colors! Tough choice but since I have a Lime Green Clem I would 
choose Anapurple...if I were to buy one
Doug

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:51:56 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Here's the product page. My daughter saw the email before me and sent a 
> pic of the green one with this text: 
> "I don't even ride bikes and I love this."
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/rosco-platypus-presale-eta-early-august
>
> Joe and Skye Bernard 
>

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[RBW] Rosco Platy!

[Joe Bernard]

Here's the product page. My daughter saw the email before me and sent a pic 
of the green one with this text: 
"I don't even ride bikes and I love this."

https://www.rivbike.com/products/rosco-platypus-presale-eta-early-august

Joe and Skye Bernard 

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[RBW] Re: Prescription sunglasses with progressive lenses

[Ted Durant]

On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 1:27:17 AM UTC-5 jamesk...@gmail.com wrote:

> Can anyone recommend sunglasses brand that is good for progressive 
> prescription lens with optimal coverage?


I had some Wiley WX frames made with progressive, photochromic lenses, and 
I was very unhappy with the distortion, especially in depth perception. I 
have had lots of other progressive lenses, so I'm used to the off-center 
blurring. These were much different.

My distance correction is mild, so "readers" are okay for me. I had been 
using Tifosi sunglasses for quite a while and liked them, so I was pleased 
to find they had some models with reader lenses as an option. The Veloce 
frame is what I use. They've been great for riding for me.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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Re: [RBW] Mechanical: Bent rapid rise derailer cage

[Bill Lindsay]

Also on the checklist of things to check: the bolt for XTR rear mechs is 
aluminum.  If a previous installer cross threaded it, it's pretty easy for 
the steel of the dropout to kind of rethread that bolt in that crooked 
orientation, if the previous installer was pretty ham-handed.  If that were 
the case, the "bend" would be in the bolt, and "bending" the cage in the 
bench vise would be a case of two wrongs trying to make a right.

BL in EC

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 2:08:37 PM UTC-7 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Can't tell by the picture..
> Have you checked your derailleur hanger alignment
>
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 1:15 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>
>> Hey hey hey everyone. I recently picked up a Shimano XTR rapid rise mech, 
>> the M951. When it came in the mail all seemed good to go. Nice and clean! 
>> But I went to install it on my Appaloosa and found the cage is out of 
>> alignment. Picture attached. The pulley wheels are not vertically aligned 
>> with the cogs of the cassette.
>>
>> I had a 2021 Deore rear mech on the bike when I started, it was working 
>> fine. I ended up putting a XTR M952 on the bike and it works great! So the 
>> issue is definitely with this rapid rise XTR. 
>>
>> Can anyone recommend a fix for this? I wanted to check with the group, 
>> seek some wisdom, before I mounted the mech in my bench vise and started 
>> torquing. 
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> [image: s-l1600.jpg]
>>
>> -- 
>>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a3d07de0-f516-443f-be29-30c887589f46n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[Ted Durant]

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 2:23:48 PM UTC-5 Josiah Anderson wrote:

> I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride 
> in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and 
> freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the 
> wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this 
> pattern. 
>

Well, sample n=1, I did many a winter commute in Wisconsin with them and 
never had a problem.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[Daniel MacPherson]

Are the Paul Racer brakes better? I’m tempted to buy the latest Crust road
bike in the near future but I don’t want to run 559s or Mafacs.

I know they’ve been discontinued but I’m sure over the next 6 months, a
couple will pop-up on Ebay or the ibob community.

Daniel M
Tallahassee Fl


On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 3:23 PM Josiah Anderson 
wrote:

> I agree with Eric and others who find the 559s lacking in stopping power.
> They're more or less good enough in dry conditions, but if it's wet, not so
> much, and they're even worse in the snow. One of my scariest bike
> experiences ever was on a 650b conversion of an old Trek with 559s (with
> salmon pads), coming down a long hill with a busy intersection at the
> bottom. It was raining, and having recently switched to the Tektros from
> Mafac Racers, I was expecting my brakes to work, but they didn't. I went
> through the intersection at probably 35mph, and I managed to make the turn
> and somehow there were no cars, but it still freaked me out. The 559s don't
> seem to be able to squeeze hard enough to create enough friction to dry off
> wet rims in a revolution or two like most other (good) rim brakes do, so
> they just keep skating on top of the layer of water. Same deal for ice,
> although there are fewer brakes that do well with that.
>
> I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride
> in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and
> freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the
> wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this
> pattern.
>
> (Apologies if this post comes through late- I post frequently on IBOB but
> not as much here so might not have Cyclofiend Jim's approval to post).
>
> Josiah Anderson
> Missoula, MT
>
> Le lun. 11 juil. 2022 à 15:52, Cyclofiend Jim  a
> écrit :
>
>> I must ride a lot slower than all's y'all's... but I've honestly never
>> had any trouble with my brakes on my AHH. I use the original standard
>> Shimano Lever  that shipped with it in aught-seven (probably discontinued)
>> on a set of Noodle bars. They don't bottom out at full pressure and the
>> wheel will skid.
>>
>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc522-cyclofiend_jim0908.html
>>
>> - Jim
>>
>> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 3:41:01 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Laing: Forgive me if you've posted some before, but if not, I'd be
>>> delighted to see photos of your Riv custom "racing bike." 53.4 X 62?? What
>>> sort of bar? Me, I fit almost the diametrical opposite: 60 X 56 c-c for a
>>> drop-bar bike.
>>>
>>> To all: I've found this discussion interesting, both regarding braking
>>> effectiveness and road bike aesthetics. I have to say that I myself would
>>> prefer cantis or V brakes, or braze-on centerpulls instead of what appear
>>> to me clunky very-long reach calipers on a "gofast" road bike if medium
>>> reach calipers didn't work; and in fact, I've seen a number of custom or
>>> high-end production road bikes from before WWII built for cantilever
>>> brakes. I think a great many of these were on the Classics Rendezvous and
>>> Classic Lightweights UK websites.
>>>
>>> IME, I tend to agree with those who say that almost all brakes work
>>> decently, if not brilliantly, if properly set up, and if the levers are
>>> appropriate to the brakes proper. I know that my otherwise wonderful
>>> second-gen (? The tab-operated cam) Dura Ace single pivots worked badly,
>>> even with salmons, pulled by 7410-era levers, while the single pivot (high
>>> end DC? Superbe Pro?) 57 mm reach single pivot on the gofast pulled by the
>>> same levers works very well indeed, for power and for modulation.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 10:34 AM lconley  wrote:
>>>
 Appearance was a large consideration when I selected the Rene
 Herse braze-on centerpull brakes for my Rivendell Custom that was intended
 as a road bike. I call it a fat man's racing bike. "Racing Bike" as in no
 braze-ons for racks, no fender eyelets, no holes in the "brake" or chain
 stay bridges, - clean stays and forks but a really long wheelbase. The long
 chainstays are balanced by the really long main triangle (62 cm ETT x 53.4
 ST). What I did not realize was how large the Rene Herse brakes are, they
 dwarf my Mafac Competition , DiaCompe, and Weinmann centerpulls. But they
 still have that fifties - sixties racing bike look. The centerpull
 braze-ons are located between the rim and the fork crown/brake bridge, so
 they are a stiffer mount that cantilevers/V-brakes whose braze-ons are
 located below the rim. Another plus for the RH centerpulls is no black or
 plastic parts like the long reach Tektros.

 I have never actually seen another bike with braze-on centerpulls
 except in pictures - some in the book *Japanese Steel*. I have
 considered at times having Dia-Compe braze-ons installed on my Paramount
 for the original Weinmann 

Re: [RBW] Mechanical: Bent rapid rise derailer cage

[Joe Bernard]

Oh, Eric has the better plan. I didn't notice there's no chain, my question 
doesn't make sense 

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 1:30:50 PM UTC-7 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> Have you tried putting a chain on it? Maybe placing tension on the 
> derailleur will bring it into alignment?
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On Jul 12, 2022, at 12:15 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>
> Hey hey hey everyone. I recently picked up a Shimano XTR rapid rise mech, 
> the M951. When it came in the mail all seemed good to go. Nice and clean! 
> But I went to install it on my Appaloosa and found the cage is out of 
> alignment. Picture attached. The pulley wheels are not vertically aligned 
> with the cogs of the cassette.
>
> I had a 2021 Deore rear mech on the bike when I started, it was working 
> fine. I ended up putting a XTR M952 on the bike and it works great! So the 
> issue is definitely with this rapid rise XTR. 
>
> Can anyone recommend a fix for this? I wanted to check with the group, 
> seek some wisdom, before I mounted the mech in my bench vise and started 
> torquing. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>  
> 
> .
> 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus Mods

[Jon Dukeman]

What is the front rack?

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022, 1:53 PM 'upyou...@yahoo.com' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Beautiful additions.  The bar wrap is superb!!!  I have some temporary
> black wrap on mine until I finalize my bar choice. I have the Nitto Choco
> on currently.  Might want a bit of a rise and sweep so I'm still
> considering others.  What kind do you have on yours?
> I have both the front and rear lights and they are a real treat.  I never
> even think of bringing my lights in to charge anymore.
> Happy riding
> Kate, Trenton, NJ
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:52:41 AM UTC-4 rsb...@msn.com wrote:
>
>> Last Saturday was rainy around here. I spent most of the day making some
>> changes on my Platy.
>>  Swapped out the wheels, Schmidt front, White ind. rear, Mavic A719 rims.
>> New tires, Soma Vitesse 700x42's. Added Paul cross levers. I like to hold
>> the bars in the center going downhill and feel a lot safer with brake
>> levers under my hands. Lots of deer in the State park where I ride and I've
>> almost had a couple collisions on downhills.
>> I installed lights. Eldelux 2 front, B tail light and fenders. V.O 63mm
>> fluted.
>> Took me most of the day but it turned out pretty good. Photos attached.
>> Took her out for a ride on Sunday. Picked up a dozen ears of Maryland
>> sweet corm. The more I ride this bike, the more I like it.
>> Before and after shots of the bars. Added Ergon grips too. Moved the bell
>> to the stem.
>> I like to hold the bars forward of the shifters sometimes.
>> Richard
>> [image: IMG_3396.JPG][image: IMG_3391.JPG][image: IMG_3394.JPG][image:
>> IMG_3395.JPG][image: IMG_3397.JPG]
>>
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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[lconley]

Now this is a solution! I would go ahead and get a new Wald and plasti-dip 
it, as Jon said, you have gotten your money out of this one.

Bonus is that plasti-dip is available in colors! You can dip your brake 
levers to match your basket and..

Laing

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 4:25:07 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> After either cleaning or a replacement, there's always that plasti dip 
> stuff. I've read of someone doing it before after cleaning a rust Wald with 
> Dawn and steel wool. It not only seals the steel, it would provide some 
> grip and it wouldn't make any noise or grind away at a rack if it's sitting 
> on one. The liquid or the spray would work. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: A story of a Harlequin Braided Appaloosa and Platypus

[larson....@gmail.com]

Fantastic bikes! Congratulations!

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 2:56:35 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

> Harlequin wrapping is not for the faint of heart. I have done one at this 
> point, and haven't managed to do another, yet. Requires a lot of patience, 
> and unwrapping and re-wrapping.
>
> Bravo!
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 3:24:06 PM UTC-4 Seth wrote:
>
>> Hi All, 
>>
>> A user on the group had suggested that I share a few pictures of the pair 
>> of second hand Rivs that my wife and I recently picked up and customized to 
>> our liking. 
>>
>> The first to join the group was my wife’s Platypus, which we found at a 
>> local shop here in Boston that was on consignment since its former owner 
>> traded down to a smaller size. The timing of this find was incredible in 
>> that our friend had recently built up a Homer that my wife test rode and 
>> recently fell in love with. Thus the obsession began and when this came up, 
>> we didn’t hesitate to add our first Riv to the family. 
>>
>> To make a long story short, I was quickly the lone man out on our group 
>> rides, and my own search began. Again, in another stroke of sheer luck, our 
>> same friend found me this Joe Appaloosa, which was listed out in Chicago, 
>> and I immediately contacted the owner who was happy to ship it out to me. 
>>
>> I made almost no changes to my build, which was damn near perfect and 
>> really well spec’d with Paul and White Ind components. The only changes I 
>> made were to add the basket and swap out the rear saddle to a Brooks B67 
>> and it was off to the races. 
>>
>> For my wife’s Platy we swapped out the wheels to a dynamo set and then it 
>> was time to get to adding the flare, which brings me to the harlequin 
>> braided 
>> wraps for both. I have built a lot of bikes but never attempted to do a 
>> harlequin braid, but decided it was a requirement for both of them. I’m 
>> sure they aren’t perfect but I’m really happy with how they came out! 
>>
>> Sorry for the long backstory but figured I’d add some context. Cheers! 
>> Seth
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Mechanical: Bent rapid rise derailer cage

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Have you tried putting a chain on it? Maybe placing tension on the derailleur 
will bring it into alignment?

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 

> On Jul 12, 2022, at 12:15 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
> 
> Hey hey hey everyone. I recently picked up a Shimano XTR rapid rise mech, the 
> M951. When it came in the mail all seemed good to go. Nice and clean! But I 
> went to install it on my Appaloosa and found the cage is out of alignment. 
> Picture attached. The pulley wheels are not vertically aligned with the cogs 
> of the cassette.
> 
> I had a 2021 Deore rear mech on the bike when I started, it was working fine. 
> I ended up putting a XTR M952 on the bike and it works great! So the issue is 
> definitely with this rapid rise XTR. 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a fix for this? I wanted to check with the group, seek 
> some wisdom, before I mounted the mech in my bench vise and started torquing. 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[Jon Dukeman]

I think you have gotten your money's worth on this one.
Jon

On Mon, Jul 11, 2022, 6:44 PM J J  wrote:

> Thanks, Aaron and Jon. I appreciate your suggestions!
>
> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 8:39:46 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Wald baskets are made of steel and zinc plated.
>> Suggest removing your basket and mix 50/50 water and white vinegar and
>> scrub affected area with steel wool.
>> Rinse and spray paint with black primer / top coat Rustoleum.
>> If rust is too much then find a new inexpensive 139 on line. I saw one
>> for 19.99.
>> I painted my basket and the paint has held up well. I touch up as needed.
>> Jon
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 11, 2022, 4:41 PM  wrote:
>>
>>> One option might be Analog’s cerakoted baskets.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Aaron in El Paso
>>>
>>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 14:09, J J  wrote:
>>>
>>> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same
>>> size as the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the
>>> rusting has gotten too much.
>>>
>>> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some
>>> sort to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
>>>
>>> Thanks very much.
>>>
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[Garth]

After either cleaning or a replacement, there's always that plasti dip 
stuff. I've read of someone doing it before after cleaning a rust Wald with 
Dawn and steel wool. It not only seals the steel, it would provide some 
grip and it wouldn't make any noise or grind away at a rack if it's sitting 
on one. The liquid or the spray would work. 

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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[lconley]

What is the cost of buying a new basket occasionally vs basket coatings? 
Zinc is a sacrificial coating and it appears to have been sacrificed. I 
hate to replace things, but sometimes it is the more economical thing to 
do. Just make sure to get the remaining steel Wald to the recyclers.

Laing

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 3:24:28 PM UTC-4 amill...@gmail.com wrote:

> J J,
>
> A zinc coating is electrically applied where galvanizing is hot dipped 
> into a zinc solution. Galvanizing gives you better corrosion protection, 
> but they’re both zinc coatings.
>
> That is a lot of rust. If you want to keep using the basket, you could try 
> a rust converter on it. I’m glad you’re installing fenders as it looks like 
> they’re very much needed where you are.
>
> Best,
>
> Aaron in El Paso 
>
> On Jul 12, 2022, at 08:04, J J  wrote:
>
> Good morning all. Appreciate your responses, Philip, Richard, and Brian. 
>
> I suppose I'm ignorant about how zinc plating on steel works — is it 
> supposed to be a great rust inhibitor? I attached a photo of the basket in 
> question. I was installing fenders on my Hunq and got a good look at the 
> underside of the basket and saw that it was basically covered in rust. So I 
> took it off, and noticed that the rusted points that contacted the Nitto 
> Campee rack caused pitting on the rack. I have ridden in wet conditions 
> occasionally, but nothing drastic. I wonder how common this extent of 
> rusting is? The rust on mine took buseage right up to the cliff and then 
> over the edge!
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 9:27:10 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I purchased a Nitto rack from Analog back in 2020, and it has the 
>> Cerakote finish on it. It looks great of course, but I was surprised at how 
>> fast the coating wore off in certain spots where my bag rested on the top 
>> of the rack. I wonder if the material of a bag placed inside a Wald basket 
>> with Cerakote would abrade the basket finish in the same manner with normal 
>> riding? I think Cerakote is a thinner coating than say, powdercoat, but I 
>> had assumed it would be a bit more durable.
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 8:18:27 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Analog Cycles has some that are cerakoted. It’s tougher than powder. I 
>>> have a 137 from them & is great. Though as we speak it appears they only 
>>> have 137 half & full baskets. Worth a call though. Or finding a local 
>>> cerakote applicator.
>>>
>>> https://analogcycles.com/collections/basksets
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 4:09 PM, J J  wrote:
>>>
>>> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same 
>>> size as the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the 
>>> rusting has gotten too much. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some 
>>> sort to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
>>>
>>> Thanks very much.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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>  
> 
> .
> [image: rusty wald.jpg]
>

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[RBW] WTT/FS: Soma Clarence/Cletus for 610mm Ahearne/MAP Handlebar

[Jeremy Till]

(x post with iBOB, apologies to those that see it twice)
Hey folks, 

A few weeks ago Soma brought out a new edition of their Clarence bar that 
included a pair of bar "ends" or extensions. The extensions utilize 
oversize clamps with shims so they can be mounted inboard of the forward 
curves on the bar. The extensions can also be rotated on their mounts. All 
of this adjustability means that you could set up everything from something 
resembling a Jones bar to something resembling a Velo-Orange Crazy Bar, or 
pretty much anything in between. You could also move run them as more 
traditional bar ends but with an angle that is more appropriate for a 
swept-back bar like the Clarence. They call the extensions "Cletus" and are 
selling the combo as the "Clarence/Cletus," and you can only get the 
extensions by buying the bar combo:

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/280113-soma-handlebar-clarence-w-cletus-ends-6383

When I saw them I thought they were pretty nifty, so I ordered a pair, but 
didn't really have an immediate intention of mounting them on anything. I 
pulled them out of the package to look at them, but they are still sitting 
in the original shipping box in my garage.  

Now, a few weeks later, I find myself curious to try something narrower 
than the 710mm Jones bars I have mounted on my Clem. I have narrower bars 
on a couple of other bikes and they seem to work well for me. 
Unfortunately, the Clarence isn't substantially narrower, especially since 
the way I have my grips set up, I tend to grip the bar well inwards from 
the ends. Thus, I find myself eyeing the Ahearne/MAP handlebar, whose grips 
are at a similar angle to Jones bars but are narrower, at 610mm. I do think 
I would want the wider of the two versions of the Ahearne/MAP, since I have 
large hands and still need to mount brake levers, a shifter, and grips.  

Thus, I'm looking to trade my new-in-box Clarence/Cletus for a pair of the 
610mm Ahearne/MAP bars. My ideal would be the 31.8mm version in black, but 
I'm open to either color or clamp diameter as long as they are the 610mm 
version.  

Alternatively, I would sell my Clarence/Cletus for basically the cost of a 
new Ahearne/MAP, so $100, including shipping in the lower 48.  

Let me know if you're interested either way!

-Jeremy Till
Sacramento, CA 

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[RBW] Re: A story of a Harlequin Braided Appaloosa and Platypus

[lconley]

Harlequin wrapping is not for the faint of heart. I have done one at this 
point, and haven't managed to do another, yet. Requires a lot of patience, 
and unwrapping and re-wrapping.

Bravo!

Laing

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 3:24:06 PM UTC-4 Seth wrote:

> Hi All, 
>
> A user on the group had suggested that I share a few pictures of the pair 
> of second hand Rivs that my wife and I recently picked up and customized to 
> our liking. 
>
> The first to join the group was my wife’s Platypus, which we found at a 
> local shop here in Boston that was on consignment since its former owner 
> traded down to a smaller size. The timing of this find was incredible in 
> that our friend had recently built up a Homer that my wife test rode and 
> recently fell in love with. Thus the obsession began and when this came up, 
> we didn’t hesitate to add our first Riv to the family. 
>
> To make a long story short, I was quickly the lone man out on our group 
> rides, and my own search began. Again, in another stroke of sheer luck, our 
> same friend found me this Joe Appaloosa, which was listed out in Chicago, 
> and I immediately contacted the owner who was happy to ship it out to me. 
>
> I made almost no changes to my build, which was damn near perfect and 
> really well spec’d with Paul and White Ind components. The only changes I 
> made were to add the basket and swap out the rear saddle to a Brooks B67 
> and it was off to the races. 
>
> For my wife’s Platy we swapped out the wheels to a dynamo set and then it 
> was time to get to adding the flare, which brings me to the harlequin braided 
> wraps for both. I have built a lot of bikes but never attempted to do a 
> harlequin braid, but decided it was a requirement for both of them. I’m 
> sure they aren’t perfect but I’m really happy with how they came out! 
>
> Sorry for the long backstory but figured I’d add some context. Cheers! Seth
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Mods

['upyou...@yahoo.com' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Beautiful additions.  The bar wrap is superb!!!  I have some temporary 
black wrap on mine until I finalize my bar choice. I have the Nitto Choco 
on currently.  Might want a bit of a rise and sweep so I'm still 
considering others.  What kind do you have on yours?
I have both the front and rear lights and they are a real treat.  I never 
even think of bringing my lights in to charge anymore.  
Happy riding
Kate, Trenton, NJ
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 5:52:41 AM UTC-4 rsb...@msn.com wrote:

> Last Saturday was rainy around here. I spent most of the day making some 
> changes on my Platy.
>  Swapped out the wheels, Schmidt front, White ind. rear, Mavic A719 rims. 
> New tires, Soma Vitesse 700x42's. Added Paul cross levers. I like to hold 
> the bars in the center going downhill and feel a lot safer with brake 
> levers under my hands. Lots of deer in the State park where I ride and I've 
> almost had a couple collisions on downhills.
> I installed lights. Eldelux 2 front, B tail light and fenders. V.O 63mm 
> fluted.
> Took me most of the day but it turned out pretty good. Photos attached.
> Took her out for a ride on Sunday. Picked up a dozen ears of Maryland 
> sweet corm. The more I ride this bike, the more I like it.
> Before and after shots of the bars. Added Ergon grips too. Moved the bell 
> to the stem.
> I like to hold the bars forward of the shifters sometimes.
> Richard
> [image: IMG_3396.JPG][image: IMG_3391.JPG][image: IMG_3394.JPG][image: 
> IMG_3395.JPG][image: IMG_3397.JPG]
>

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Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

[Ryan Frahm]

Looks great! Can’t wait to see it all finished!

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 6:13:45 AM UTC-7 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> Here's a peek at my recently acquired, "NOS" Gus that I picked up from 
> Golden Saddle (I was thrilled to find one from the previous run because I 
> love that blue). Still in the early phases of the build, and I have about 
> 90% of the parts I need to complete it. I pulled a 27.5 wheelset off one of 
> my other bikes just to see what it looked like, and to see if it would fit 
> on my Kuat rack (happy to see that it does - just barely!). At first, I was 
> taken aback at how incredibly huge this bike is, and how it seems to dwarf 
> my Subaru wagon in this photo - and mine is just the Medium sized Gus! 
> Boscos will be swapped out for Toscos, and I'm currently waiting on some 
> polished Cliffhangers and Ehline 2.5s. I'll post a finished pic later on, 
> whenever I can get it built up.[image: gus_pre.JPG]
>
> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 7:22:45 PM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> I'm in the same frame of mind.  I keep trying to accept the idea of not 
>> having fenders on my Susie, but can't.  I think bikes without fenders are 
>> dumb.  If you give me a few days, I plan to install some of the Silver SKS 
>> ones that Riv sells (60mm?), over 2.8 tires - but not knobby ones.  I'm 
>> going to install the whole fenders, but split them at the brake crown and 
>> seatstay bridge so I can mount them higher.  I'll attach the cut-off pieces 
>> to the bottom of racks that are already installed.  Then I'll  post pics.
>>
>> In the meantime, here's a picture of the new style SKS fenders on my 
>> scapegoat with 3.25 knobbies.  I bought these for the Susie, but they did. 
>> NOT really fit, so I used them here instead.[image: 20220711_170937.jpg]
>> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 4:43:41 PM UTC-6 brendonoid wrote:
>>
>>> After bending the head tube on my silver Appaloosa I was never going to 
>>> run fenders on a knobby tyre again. However, rolling down the gravel hills 
>>> at high velocity I discovered that a 2.8 tyre can very handily lob rocks 
>>> around the down tube and into my face.
>>> Would love peoples opinions on ugly MTB-like fender options that might 
>>> no be so ugly. I'm going to have to be creative, certainly not full 
>>> fenders, certainly not metal ones. I'm thinking one of those bits of 
>>> plastic full squish bikes use but I am very open to ideas here.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Ha. Yeah. Good point. 
Definitely SF Bay Area where things are reasonably dry and dusty.

I will say that have run that through some fairly wet brevets and did use 
those when I used the AHH for CX.
We had some muddy days - https://flic.kr/p/61iVgT


On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 12:23:48 PM UTC-7 Josiah Anderson wrote:

> I agree with Eric and others who find the 559s lacking in stopping power. 
> They're more or less good enough in dry conditions, but if it's wet, not so 
> much, and they're even worse in the snow. One of my scariest bike 
> experiences ever was on a 650b conversion of an old Trek with 559s (with 
> salmon pads), coming down a long hill with a busy intersection at the 
> bottom. It was raining, and having recently switched to the Tektros from 
> Mafac Racers, I was expecting my brakes to work, but they didn't. I went 
> through the intersection at probably 35mph, and I managed to make the turn 
> and somehow there were no cars, but it still freaked me out. The 559s don't 
> seem to be able to squeeze hard enough to create enough friction to dry off 
> wet rims in a revolution or two like most other (good) rim brakes do, so 
> they just keep skating on top of the layer of water. Same deal for ice, 
> although there are fewer brakes that do well with that.
>
> I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride 
> in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and 
> freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the 
> wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this 
> pattern.
>
> (Apologies if this post comes through late- I post frequently on IBOB but 
> not as much here so might not have Cyclofiend Jim's approval to post).
>
> Josiah Anderson
> Missoula, MT 
>
> Le lun. 11 juil. 2022 à 15:52, Cyclofiend Jim  a 
> écrit :
>
>> I must ride a lot slower than all's y'all's... but I've honestly never 
>> had any trouble with my brakes on my AHH. I use the original standard 
>> Shimano Lever  that shipped with it in aught-seven (probably discontinued) 
>> on a set of Noodle bars. They don't bottom out at full pressure and the 
>> wheel will skid. 
>>
>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc522-cyclofiend_jim0908.html
>>
>> - Jim
>>
>> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 3:41:01 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Laing: Forgive me if you've posted some before, but if not, I'd be 
>>> delighted to see photos of your Riv custom "racing bike." 53.4 X 62?? What 
>>> sort of bar? Me, I fit almost the diametrical opposite: 60 X 56 c-c for a 
>>> drop-bar bike. 
>>>
>>> To all: I've found this discussion interesting, both regarding braking 
>>> effectiveness and road bike aesthetics. I have to say that I myself would 
>>> prefer cantis or V brakes, or braze-on centerpulls instead of what appear 
>>> to me clunky very-long reach calipers on a "gofast" road bike if medium 
>>> reach calipers didn't work; and in fact, I've seen a number of custom or 
>>> high-end production road bikes from before WWII built for cantilever 
>>> brakes. I think a great many of these were on the Classics Rendezvous and 
>>> Classic Lightweights UK websites.
>>>
>>> IME, I tend to agree with those who say that almost all brakes work 
>>> decently, if not brilliantly, if properly set up, and if the levers are 
>>> appropriate to the brakes proper. I know that my otherwise wonderful 
>>> second-gen (? The tab-operated cam) Dura Ace single pivots worked badly, 
>>> even with salmons, pulled by 7410-era levers, while the single pivot (high 
>>> end DC? Superbe Pro?) 57 mm reach single pivot on the gofast pulled by the 
>>> same levers works very well indeed, for power and for modulation.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 10:34 AM lconley  wrote:
>>>
 Appearance was a large consideration when I selected the Rene 
 Herse braze-on centerpull brakes for my Rivendell Custom that was intended 
 as a road bike. I call it a fat man's racing bike. "Racing Bike" as in no 
 braze-ons for racks, no fender eyelets, no holes in the "brake" or chain 
 stay bridges, - clean stays and forks but a really long wheelbase. The 
 long 
 chainstays are balanced by the really long main triangle (62 cm ETT x 53.4 
 ST). What I did not realize was how large the Rene Herse brakes are, they 
 dwarf my Mafac Competition , DiaCompe, and Weinmann centerpulls. But they 
 still have that fifties - sixties racing bike look. The centerpull 
 braze-ons are located between the rim and the fork crown/brake bridge, so 
 they are a stiffer mount that cantilevers/V-brakes whose braze-ons are 
 located below the rim. Another plus for the RH centerpulls is no black or 
 plastic parts like the long reach Tektros.

 I have never actually seen another bike with braze-on centerpulls 
 except in pictures - some in the book *Japanese Steel*. I have 
 considered at times having Dia-Compe braze-ons installed on my Paramount 

Re: [RBW] Re: Prescription sunglasses with progressive lenses

[Jamie Kaplan]

Thank you, Peter. I appreciate your help :)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 8, 2022, at 1:57 PM, 'Peter Bridge' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> James, I have been using Oakley Flak glasses for maybe 15 years.  I get them 
> with progressive lenses and whatchamacallit changeable tint.  I'm on pair #3. 
>  They are tough.  I like them very much, and I forget I have them on, which 
> is about the highest compliment I can offer.
> 
> One substantial irritation - after 10-12 years the frame changed slightly and 
> Oakly would no longer replace my lenses, so I have two pairs of %$%$@ 
> unusable frames.  But I still like my current pair.
> 
> Peter Bridge
> Sebastopol CA   
> 
>  
> 
>> On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 11:27:17 PM UTC-7 jamesk...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Can anyone recommend sunglasses brand that is good for progressive 
>> prescription lens with optimal coverage?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[amillhench]

J J,

A zinc coating is electrically applied where galvanizing is hot dipped into a 
zinc solution. Galvanizing gives you better corrosion protection, but they’re 
both zinc coatings.

That is a lot of rust. If you want to keep using the basket, you could try a 
rust converter on it. I’m glad you’re installing fenders as it looks like 
they’re very much needed where you are.

Best,

Aaron in El Paso 

On Jul 12, 2022, at 08:04, J J  wrote:

Good morning all. Appreciate your responses, Philip, Richard, and Brian. 

I suppose I'm ignorant about how zinc plating on steel works — is it supposed 
to be a great rust inhibitor? I attached a photo of the basket in question. I 
was installing fenders on my Hunq and got a good look at the underside of the 
basket and saw that it was basically covered in rust. So I took it off, and 
noticed that the rusted points that contacted the Nitto Campee rack caused 
pitting on the rack. I have ridden in wet conditions occasionally, but nothing 
drastic. I wonder how common this extent of rusting is? The rust on mine took 
buseage right up to the cliff and then over the edge!
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 9:27:10 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
> I purchased a Nitto rack from Analog back in 2020, and it has the Cerakote 
> finish on it. It looks great of course, but I was surprised at how fast the 
> coating wore off in certain spots where my bag rested on the top of the rack. 
> I wonder if the material of a bag placed inside a Wald basket with Cerakote 
> would abrade the basket finish in the same manner with normal riding? I think 
> Cerakote is a thinner coating than say, powdercoat, but I had assumed it 
> would be a bit more durable.
> 
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 8:18:27 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Analog Cycles has some that are cerakoted. It’s tougher than powder. I have 
>> a 137 from them & is great. Though as we speak it appears they only have 137 
>> half & full baskets. Worth a call though. Or finding a local cerakote 
>> applicator.
>> 
>> https://analogcycles.com/collections/basksets
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 4:09 PM, J J  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same size 
>>> as the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the 
>>> rusting has gotten too much. 
>> 
>>> 
>>> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some 
>>> sort to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
>>> 
>>> Thanks very much.
>> 
>>> -- 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Silver2 shifter apparently shift 12 speeds fine, even with SRAM rd

[Patrick Moore]

RBW said it won't work; quoting BS quoting Riv:

*These are compatible with up to 9 speed rear derailers only. Not
compatible with SRAM rear derailers.*

But this recently appeared on the web page:

HOLY COW, FOLKS: These will shift up to 11 speeds when used with a 9/8
speed rear derailer. The latest 10/11/+ rear derailers require more cable
to be pulled making them no good but a 9 speed rear derailer will still
shift through an 11-speed cassette easily. Match your chain to your
cassette, and the 9sp rear derailer works!

In fact, BSNYC is using them to shift 12.

The main complication is indeed lever travel; and this is why I find
Suntour Barcons with more "pull per inch" better for 10 cogs than Silver1s,
even though this means that shifting takes, theoretically, a bit more care.
In practice, the Barcons work fine with 10.

On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 10:54 AM Jim Bronson  wrote:

> I guess my reaction to this would be "why would it not work".  It's a
> friction shift lever.
>
> So long as the limit screws on the rear derailleur are set correctly, and
> the lever has sufficient travel to sweep the entire distance between the
> high stop and the low stop when connected to the cable, there's no reason
> it wouldn't work.
>
> I suppose you could also talk about cable pull ratios and maybe there's a
> situation under which a friction shift lever didn't have enough travel
> because of multiplication or division of travel, but it still goes back to
> the same question, is there enough travel when the thing is connected to a
> cable, so more or less a yes or no question.
>
> Jim
> Austin suburbs, TX
>
> On Mon, Jul 11, 2022 at 5:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> https://bikesnobnyc.com/2022/07/08/index-this/#more-11189
>>
>> I'm only up to 10, and that with an 8-sp-era road rd and Barcons, but
>> this is heartening news.
>>
>> I'm tempted to try my Barcons with a 12-sp road cassette, tho' I'd have
>> to swap out the DA 7401 rd for an 8-sp XT rd, I guess to handle a
>> big-enough granny cog to make it all worthwhile. Actually, I should proceed
>> gently, and simply go to 11 first.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO/WTT/WTB: Dura Ace GA 200/first gen crank arms, VG condition, 170 mm or something equally pretty, spare, light.

[Patrick Moore]

I am very  pleased to say that I just received a very nice 170 mm pair of
first gen DA cranks with dustcaps and 52 t ring shipped from Canada for
US$143 including paypal fee. They were shipped on the 6th, I missed a day
because I had to sign the card left in my mailbox, so that's 4 days or less
from Canada.

Thanks, all.

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[RBW] Re: New 650b Rims from Crust

[Slin]

Thanks all for sharing your experiences. I'm still leaning towards getting 
a set to use tubeless, but now I'll know to expect to have to true them up 
early.

On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 4:02:56 PM UTC-7 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> I’ve been using the 700c version of these for a few months on several 
> different bikes. The rear did go out of true not too long after I got them. 
> I was as kind of surprised, but trued them up and no problems since. I 
> liked the price point too with the front hub. I was able to set them up 
> tubeless with no problems either. 
> Lance
>
> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 4:05:43 PM UTC-6 leva...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> You are correct, Drew.  The rh is no louder than a White rh, but much 
>> louder than a 105 or Deore rh.  It is what it is.  What I failed to mention 
>> was how nice the dynamo front hub is at this price point I like the 
>> wheelset a bunch.
>>
>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 3:04:36 PM UTC-6 Drew Henson wrote:
>>
>>> I have a pair on a fairly new crust romanceur, and i like them quite a 
>>> bit. rear hub is no louder than a white industry hub i have on another 
>>> bike. I really like the SP generator hub, i think it's a good value. 
>>>
>>> I am curious if the spoke tensioning holds up. I probably have about 100 
>>> miles on them. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 11:07:36 AM UTC-7 leva...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I own a set of the Crust wheels on my Canti Lightning bolt, and they’re 
 just fine, although the rear hub is loud.  Mine are the 650b size, 

 On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 11:11:41 AM UTC-6 Nikko in Oakland wrote:

> I have a pair of the 700c complete wheelsets and I probably put them 
> through more rough stuff than they were intended to be on. 
>
> I've ridden them for about 500-600 miles, about 40% gravel (nothing 
> super rough) and 60% road in the Oakland/Berkeley Hills. I ride my bikes 
> kind of hard, with a lot of out of the saddle, high torque efforts. I'm 
> never riding any trails that I'd be more comfortable on a front 
> suspension 
> bike on. The wheels were machine built, so they went out of true rather 
> quickly which was expected. At ~200 miles, I gave them a little touch 
> true 
> to keep them laterally true. But shortly after (~70 miles later), they 
> went 
> out of true again, and I attributed this to my lack of experience truing 
> wheels, it being machine-built wheel, how light the rim is, and/or how 
> hard 
> i'm pushing them. 
>
> An acquaintance mentioned that he had to true his wheelset about 5 
> times before they stayed true. I'm not super well equipped to true wheels 
> appropriately, so this would have gotten expensive for me to get a shop 
> to 
> do this regularly, so I just got them detensioned/retensioned by a 
> trusted 
> wheel builder. The wheel builder mentioned that the rear hub is a bit 
> crunchy already and he suggested I replace the bearings and clean out the 
> internals to get 'em smooth again. I wasn't thrilled to hear that, but 
> it's 
> all good. 
>
> Anyways, the wheels are light and really responsive, I like how 
> quickly they spin up, and they're priced really well. But since I'm not a 
> wheelbuilder-type, I think this is the last machine-built wheelset I ever 
> buy. The wheels were pretty, light, and cheap-ish. But as a friend says, 
> strong, light, cheap; you can only pick two. 
> On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 11:27:51 PM UTC-7 Slin wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have any on-bike experience with the Crust wheelsets? I'm 
>> curious about them.
>>
>> S
>>
>> On Friday, May 27, 2022 at 2:53:16 PM UTC-7 Collin A wrote:
>>
>>> Heyo,
>>>
>>> I think this has been brought up in the past, but Crust recently 
>>> designed some new 650b wheels/rims that are a good alternative to the 
>>> Pacenti Brevets and Velocity Quills that serve as excellent rims for 
>>> lighter Rivendell builds.
>>>
>>> Anywho, they are now available to purchase as separate rims rather 
>>> than part of the wheelset...the only downside being you can get any 
>>> drilling you want, as long as its 32h.
>>>
>>> Crust Rim Brake Rims – Crust Bikes 
>>> 
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Collin in "subsiding, but not from earthquakes" in Sacramento
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long reach brake options for AHH

[Josiah Anderson]

I agree with Eric and others who find the 559s lacking in stopping power.
They're more or less good enough in dry conditions, but if it's wet, not so
much, and they're even worse in the snow. One of my scariest bike
experiences ever was on a 650b conversion of an old Trek with 559s (with
salmon pads), coming down a long hill with a busy intersection at the
bottom. It was raining, and having recently switched to the Tektros from
Mafac Racers, I was expecting my brakes to work, but they didn't. I went
through the intersection at probably 35mph, and I managed to make the turn
and somehow there were no cars, but it still freaked me out. The 559s don't
seem to be able to squeeze hard enough to create enough friction to dry off
wet rims in a revolution or two like most other (good) rim brakes do, so
they just keep skating on top of the layer of water. Same deal for ice,
although there are fewer brakes that do well with that.

I've noticed that it seems like many of the people who like the 559s ride
in relatively dry places and many of us who regularly deal with wet and
freezing conditions find them inadequate. That's just my hypothesis on the
wide variety of opinions on these brakes; I know not everyone fits this
pattern.

(Apologies if this post comes through late- I post frequently on IBOB but
not as much here so might not have Cyclofiend Jim's approval to post).

Josiah Anderson
Missoula, MT

Le lun. 11 juil. 2022 à 15:52, Cyclofiend Jim  a
écrit :

> I must ride a lot slower than all's y'all's... but I've honestly never had
> any trouble with my brakes on my AHH. I use the original standard Shimano
> Lever  that shipped with it in aught-seven (probably discontinued) on a set
> of Noodle bars. They don't bottom out at full pressure and the wheel will
> skid.
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc522-cyclofiend_jim0908.html
>
> - Jim
>
> On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 3:41:01 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Laing: Forgive me if you've posted some before, but if not, I'd be
>> delighted to see photos of your Riv custom "racing bike." 53.4 X 62?? What
>> sort of bar? Me, I fit almost the diametrical opposite: 60 X 56 c-c for a
>> drop-bar bike.
>>
>> To all: I've found this discussion interesting, both regarding braking
>> effectiveness and road bike aesthetics. I have to say that I myself would
>> prefer cantis or V brakes, or braze-on centerpulls instead of what appear
>> to me clunky very-long reach calipers on a "gofast" road bike if medium
>> reach calipers didn't work; and in fact, I've seen a number of custom or
>> high-end production road bikes from before WWII built for cantilever
>> brakes. I think a great many of these were on the Classics Rendezvous and
>> Classic Lightweights UK websites.
>>
>> IME, I tend to agree with those who say that almost all brakes work
>> decently, if not brilliantly, if properly set up, and if the levers are
>> appropriate to the brakes proper. I know that my otherwise wonderful
>> second-gen (? The tab-operated cam) Dura Ace single pivots worked badly,
>> even with salmons, pulled by 7410-era levers, while the single pivot (high
>> end DC? Superbe Pro?) 57 mm reach single pivot on the gofast pulled by the
>> same levers works very well indeed, for power and for modulation.
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 10:34 AM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> Appearance was a large consideration when I selected the Rene
>>> Herse braze-on centerpull brakes for my Rivendell Custom that was intended
>>> as a road bike. I call it a fat man's racing bike. "Racing Bike" as in no
>>> braze-ons for racks, no fender eyelets, no holes in the "brake" or chain
>>> stay bridges, - clean stays and forks but a really long wheelbase. The long
>>> chainstays are balanced by the really long main triangle (62 cm ETT x 53.4
>>> ST). What I did not realize was how large the Rene Herse brakes are, they
>>> dwarf my Mafac Competition , DiaCompe, and Weinmann centerpulls. But they
>>> still have that fifties - sixties racing bike look. The centerpull
>>> braze-ons are located between the rim and the fork crown/brake bridge, so
>>> they are a stiffer mount that cantilevers/V-brakes whose braze-ons are
>>> located below the rim. Another plus for the RH centerpulls is no black or
>>> plastic parts like the long reach Tektros.
>>>
>>> I have never actually seen another bike with braze-on centerpulls except
>>> in pictures - some in the book *Japanese Steel*. I have considered at
>>> times having Dia-Compe braze-ons installed on my Paramount for the original
>>> Weinmann centerpull brakes.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 7:50:05 AM UTC-4 Daniel MacPherson wrote:
>>>
 I agree with the sentiment that road bikes look better with calipers on
 them. Though I find the long-reach caliper brakes (Tektro R559) to be
 rather ugly looking. Road bikes with disc brakes or v-brakes still look odd
 to me. I assume they must be gravel or cyclocross bikes. Maybe Rivendell
 should develop some kick-ass 

[RBW] Re: Mechanical: Bent rapid rise derailer cage

[Joe Bernard]

Is it bending like this under all the cogs? I'm wondering if the problem is 
simply that you need to unscrew the limit screw at the big cog. 
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 12:15:17 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey hey hey everyone. I recently picked up a Shimano XTR rapid rise mech, 
> the M951. When it came in the mail all seemed good to go. Nice and clean! 
> But I went to install it on my Appaloosa and found the cage is out of 
> alignment. Picture attached. The pulley wheels are not vertically aligned 
> with the cogs of the cassette.
>
> I had a 2021 Deore rear mech on the bike when I started, it was working 
> fine. I ended up putting a XTR M952 on the bike and it works great! So the 
> issue is definitely with this rapid rise XTR. 
>
> Can anyone recommend a fix for this? I wanted to check with the group, 
> seek some wisdom, before I mounted the mech in my bench vise and started 
> torquing. 
>
> Thanks!
>
> [image: s-l1600.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[Wesley]

Yes, zinc inhibits rusting - it is sacrificial, so the zinc is meant to 
oxidize before the iron but it eventually runs out. Zinc coating is also 
pretty weakly attached to the underlying steel (kind of like paint). For 
serious marine and industrial applications, the steel would be hot-dip 
galvanized (dipped into a bath of molten zinc).
-W
On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 7:04:30 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:

> Good morning all. Appreciate your responses, Philip, Richard, and Brian. 
>
> I suppose I'm ignorant about how zinc plating on steel works — is it 
> supposed to be a great rust inhibitor? I attached a photo of the basket in 
> question. I was installing fenders on my Hunq and got a good look at the 
> underside of the basket and saw that it was basically covered in rust. So I 
> took it off, and noticed that the rusted points that contacted the Nitto 
> Campee rack caused pitting on the rack. I have ridden in wet conditions 
> occasionally, but nothing drastic. I wonder how common this extent of 
> rusting is? The rust on mine took buseage right up to the cliff and then 
> over the edge!
> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 9:27:10 AM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I purchased a Nitto rack from Analog back in 2020, and it has the 
>> Cerakote finish on it. It looks great of course, but I was surprised at how 
>> fast the coating wore off in certain spots where my bag rested on the top 
>> of the rack. I wonder if the material of a bag placed inside a Wald basket 
>> with Cerakote would abrade the basket finish in the same manner with normal 
>> riding? I think Cerakote is a thinner coating than say, powdercoat, but I 
>> had assumed it would be a bit more durable.
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 8:18:27 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Analog Cycles has some that are cerakoted. It’s tougher than powder. I 
>>> have a 137 from them & is great. Though as we speak it appears they only 
>>> have 137 half & full baskets. Worth a call though. Or finding a local 
>>> cerakote applicator.
>>>
>>> https://analogcycles.com/collections/basksets
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 4:09 PM, J J  wrote:
>>>
>>> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same 
>>> size as the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the 
>>> rusting has gotten too much. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some 
>>> sort to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
>>>
>>> Thanks very much.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/564b504e-ce12-4f07-9b6c-2dfd64e7b80cn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS NIB 55cm Bleriot

[Matt Beecher]

That's crazy.  If these truly ride like the Saluki, this is an amazing 
deal.  

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 11:47:46 AM UTC-5 cramer@gmail.com wrote:

> I was deployed and/or living overseas, the frameset was stored in a 
> climate controlled facility in the frame box unbuilt. $1100, free shipping. 
> $1000 local pickup Denver area. A new Roadini will run you $1300 and IMHO 
> this is a better frameset.
>

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Re: [RBW] Silver2 shifter apparently shift 12 speeds fine, even with SRAM rd

[Jim Bronson]

I guess my reaction to this would be "why would it not work".  It's a
friction shift lever.

So long as the limit screws on the rear derailleur are set correctly, and
the lever has sufficient travel to sweep the entire distance between the
high stop and the low stop when connected to the cable, there's no reason
it wouldn't work.

I suppose you could also talk about cable pull ratios and maybe there's a
situation under which a friction shift lever didn't have enough travel
because of multiplication or division of travel, but it still goes back to
the same question, is there enough travel when the thing is connected to a
cable, so more or less a yes or no question.

Jim
Austin suburbs, TX

On Mon, Jul 11, 2022 at 5:41 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> https://bikesnobnyc.com/2022/07/08/index-this/#more-11189
>
> I'm only up to 10, and that with an 8-sp-era road rd and Barcons, but this
> is heartening news.
>
> I'm tempted to try my Barcons with a 12-sp road cassette, tho' I'd have to
> swap out the DA 7401 rd for an 8-sp XT rd, I guess to handle a big-enough
> granny cog to make it all worthwhile. Actually, I should proceed gently,
> and simply go to 11 first.
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> --
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> 
> .
>


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[RBW] FS NIB 55cm Bleriot

[Ron Cramer]

I was deployed and/or living overseas, the frameset was stored in a climate
controlled facility in the frame box unbuilt. $1100, free shipping. $1000
local pickup Denver area. A new Roadini will run you $1300 and IMHO this is
a better frameset.

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[RBW] FS 55cm Bleriot

[Ron Cramer]

I was deployed and/or living overseas, the frameset was stored in a climate
controlled facility in the frame box unbuilt. $1100, free shipping. $1000
local pickup Denver area. A new Roadini will run you $1300 and IMHO this is
a better frameset. Please reply to me directly.

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[RBW] FS NIB 55cm Bleriot

[Ron Cramer]

I was deployed and/or living overseas, the frameset was stored in a climate
controlled facility in the frame box unbuilt. $1100, free shipping. $1000
local pickup Denver area. A new Roadini will run you $1300 and IMHO this is
a better frameset. Please reply to me directly.

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[RBW] Re: Silver2 shifter apparently shift 12 speeds fine, even with SRAM rd

[Wally Estrella]

H, gonna have to try this w/ my Shimano 11 speed (11-51).


On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 6:41:00 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> https://bikesnobnyc.com/2022/07/08/index-this/#more-11189
>
> I'm only up to 10, and that with an 8-sp-era road rd and Barcons, but this 
> is heartening news. 
>
> I'm tempted to try my Barcons with a 12-sp road cassette, tho' I'd have to 
> swap out the DA 7401 rd for an 8-sp XT rd, I guess to handle a big-enough 
> granny cog to make it all worthwhile. Actually, I should proceed gently, 
> and simply go to 11 first.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Silver2 shifter apparently shift 12 speeds fine, even with SRAM rd

[Brian Forsee]

I'm using what I believe is a silver 1 shifter (is at least from 2014) with 
a sram road derailleur and a 1x11 drivetrain. Works like butter.

On Monday, July 11, 2022 at 5:41:01 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Forgot to mention that, as with mechanical disc brakes that many people 
> complain about, there really is no problem, at least in my not 
> inconsequential experience, shifting 9+ speeds in friction using just about 
> any shifter and rd combination. The Barcons, the 7401 rd, and an 11-sp 
> chain shift 10 close-ratio cogs very, very well, better than any friction 
> 8-speed setup I've used. Interesting; back almost 20 years ago, I had the 
> same experience shifting close ratio Am Classic 10 sp cogs with Simplex 
> retrofriction dt shifters pulling the same rd or its 7400 or 7402 sibling; 
> not just acceptable, but wonderfully. Hell, friction shifting 10 cogs is 
> smoother than any 7-speed Shimano indexed system I used.
>
> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 6:10 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> https://bikesnobnyc.com/2022/07/08/index-this/#more-11189
>>
>> I'm only up to 10, and that with an 8-sp-era road rd and Barcons, but 
>> this is heartening news. 
>>
>> I'm tempted to try my Barcons with a 12-sp road cassette, tho' I'd have 
>> to swap out the DA 7401 rd for an 8-sp XT rd, I guess to handle a 
>> big-enough granny cog to make it all worthwhile. Actually, I should proceed 
>> gently, and simply go to 11 first.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[Brian Turner]

I purchased a Nitto rack from Analog back in 2020, and it has the Cerakote 
finish on it. It looks great of course, but I was surprised at how fast the 
coating wore off in certain spots where my bag rested on the top of the 
rack. I wonder if the material of a bag placed inside a Wald basket with 
Cerakote would abrade the basket finish in the same manner with normal 
riding? I think Cerakote is a thinner coating than say, powdercoat, but I 
had assumed it would be a bit more durable.

On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 8:18:27 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Analog Cycles has some that are cerakoted. It’s tougher than powder. I 
> have a 137 from them & is great. Though as we speak it appears they only 
> have 137 half & full baskets. Worth a call though. Or finding a local 
> cerakote applicator.
>
> https://analogcycles.com/collections/basksets
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 11, 2022, at 4:09 PM, J J  wrote:
>
> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same size 
> as the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the 
> rusting has gotten too much. 
>
>
> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some 
> sort to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> -- 
>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/564b504e-ce12-4f07-9b6c-2dfd64e7b80cn%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Wald basket rusting. Equivalent in stainless steel? Or how to prevent rust?

[Richard Rose]

Analog Cycles has some that are cerakoted. It’s tougher than powder. I have a 
137 from them & is great. Though as we speak it appears they only have 137 half 
& full baskets. Worth a call though. Or finding a local cerakote applicator.

https://analogcycles.com/collections/basksets

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 11, 2022, at 4:09 PM, J J  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone come across a good stainless steel basket around the same size as 
> the 139? I'm not concerned about weight. I love the Wald, but the rusting has 
> gotten too much. 
> 
> Or has anyone successfully treated a new Wald with a clear coat of some sort 
> to mitigate rusting? If so, what did you use?
> 
> Thanks very much.
> -- 
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