One thing, I think, that separates Riv road bikes from other brands is the
maintaining of good fit AND handling geometry at the smaller frame sizes
this thread is dealing with. The 700c wheel size has to be dealt with
because they physically "get in the way" of good geometry more as the
frames
Good stuff, Marcus. I like your storytelling sensibilitiesKind of feels
like I'm travelling while watching your films due to the variety of content
you share. I also appreciate the bike checks you add.
Keep up the good work!
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 5:17:19 PM UTC-7
Thank you for all the insight, folks. I just pulled the trigger on my first
Riv, one that comes with Paul centerpulls. So I will do a deep-dive into
this type of brake to learn as much as I can about them. Cheers!
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 8:14:24 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
> I have to
I have to admit, my only centerpull experience is with bolt on Dia Compes
and Weimnmans, none of the fancy brakes.
Then again, blue collar V brakes work great.
Eric
On Thu, Apr 25, 2024 at 7:55 PM Josiah Anderson
wrote:
> I agree both with Bill's "it depends" and Eric's "(some) centerpulls
I agree both with Bill's "it depends" and Eric's "(some) centerpulls are
spooky weak when wet." That depends on the centerpulls. DC750s, for
example, I would agree are marginal-to-dangerous when wet, which I
attribute to their flexy arms and low mechanical advantage. Mafac Racers
and Raids,
Wow, I show up late and there are ten thousand replies already which is too
many to read through now
My initial thought is that going from the racing platy's very upright
position all the way to a drop bar road bike is a huge jump. I have to say,
drop bars are truly the best in headwinds, but
My pertinent experience (including, for completeness, cantilevers):
- V-brakes: Tektro 834A around 40 mm tires and fenders did indeed have
good stopping power, except in winter before the rims and pads warmed up
and dried off a little. A significant number of times when I disconnected
Bill says “it depends,” but I can only offer my experience, which is that
both are adequate in the dry, but centerpulls are spooky weak when the rims
are wet. Centerpulls do look nicer, but in every performance category, V
brakes are a clear and easy win for me.
Eric
V brake fan
On Thursday,
$OLD
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 1:19:07 AM UTC-5 exliontamer wrote:
> Trying to sell this as a lot since I happen to have a big enough box.
>
> * Bosco bars are barely used. 58cm heat treated aluminum
> * Albatross bars are well loved but structurally perfect. 55cm heat
> treated aluminum
You can't do that if you're using 11s or more. Rejoining 11s and up chains
using a chain breaker is not recommended. My "trick" is to buy 11s chains
at $10/pop when they go on sale once a year and a bunch of quick links at
the same time.
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 11:31:11 AM UTC-7 Armand
Bill, the GOATs are unpadded and I love them. I use a Small on the bike and
Medium to drive my bus. Recommend!
Joe Bernard
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 11:12:04 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> I guess that's an OK idea. Riv has stocked traditional gloves from a
> number of sources. At
If you have certainty that you won't swap a drivetrain, simply buy two
chains. The second chain will be enough to populate several chain
replacements, granted they are of the same chain. No need to use two quick
links either, if you have a chain breaker and know how to use it.
On Thursday,
Count how many links you have now. Call Will & Riv & he will use their bulk chain to send you one the correct length. EZPZ. Cheaper than buying two & easier.Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 25, 2024, at 10:58 AM, Edwin W wrote:I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long chain,
No clear coating over the paint but it's a smart idea. I'm guessing you may
have seen it but the vintage Trek site is a gem. It's usually easy to
narrow down the year by geometry, tubing, and components since they did a
lot of switching up. http://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekBrochures.htm
On
I guess that's an OK idea. Riv has stocked traditional gloves from a
number of sources. At least twice I've bought them and disliked them for
one reason or another. These are yet another variant and maybe they nailed
it. They only have three pairs of medium in stock so I'd better decide
Bending those "BL" rules forced me to concede that the front derailleur I
chose for my 3x1 build was too crappy. I kind of smugly used the crappiest
front derailleur in my bin, because friction shifted front derailleurs are
a dime a dozen. The crappiest one (old Deer Head) proved to be too
Every once and awhile I decide I want to search for some Soba bars again.
This is the lightweight version of the Noodle handlebars. Anyone have a
spare one they want to unload? Not really concerned about width.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
The answer to each of those questions is "It depends". There are great and
lousy set ups with center pulls. There are great and lousy set ups with
V-Brakes. You decide if you prefer one over the other. Ride bikes to
develop your preferences if that's what you want to do. If you're going to
My Platypus requires 116 + 12 links. I use two chains with two quicklinks.
I don't bother about spacing the quicklinks equally between two 64 link
sections but others may.
-Dave
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 12:51:46 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
> Ebike chains come in extra long links. Figure out
Nobody mentioned the Rivendell G.O.A.T. gloves
https://www.rivbike.com/products/goat-gloves-the-g-o-a-t-glove. Perfect
for traditionalists and could probably be dyed to the color of your choice.
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 7:11:10 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> OK, those handup gloves are
Ebike chains come in extra long links. Figure out how much you need and buy
one close.
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 11:47:47 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
> Rivendell themselves buy "chain" in enormous continuous bulk, so they can
> use a single chain for a build. I buy my long chains from
I'm curious what the differences are between these two types of brakes with
regards to their respective maintenance and general use. Is one easier to
adjust and keep in good riding order than the other? Does one feel
fundamentally different than the other during the ride?
I've read that
Thanks for sharing your 'technique' with the Trek. I hadn't thought of
using a paint pen for detailing - though it makes perfect sense.
Wondering if you clear coated over the paint to finish it up?
BTW, I'm now keeping my eye open for a 510 or 710 (or similar) and I'm
placing the blame on
Thank you Doug. I'll let this beauty go to someone else the group. Good
luck with your sale!
Cheers, John
On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 7:38:54 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
> John,
> I will attach the saddle photos to this reply.
> [image: IMG_0655.JPG][image: IMG_0653.JPG][image: IMG_0652.JPG]
>
Rivendell themselves buy "chain" in enormous continuous bulk, so they can
use a single chain for a build. I buy my long chains from Riv. In the
past, when I've been impatient and wanted to do something in the stand
"RIGHT NOW" I've just used two quick links and a subset of a second chain.
That might have been me.Was it green, the Romulus? This was a route that
began and ended in Pagosa Springs. And agreed, it is a good road bike, and
I still have mine. I do recall, however, that I had a work a little harder
keeping up on fast road rides on the Romulus that I did on my Gunnar
Bumping this. My neighbor got a few bites but the frame turned out to be
too big or too small. Let me know if you are interested and I will put you
in touch with the seller.
On Monday, April 15, 2024 at 11:36:26 AM UTC-4 Steven Seelig wrote:
> [image:
I don't have a long chain bike myself, but when i was employed as a bike
mechanic i worked on lots of recumbent bikes. These would require 2-3
chains, most of the time 3. We would just splice together 3 chains of the
same make and model. I ran into problems trying to combine different model
I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long chain,
longer than a single chain.
For all of you out there with a long chain bike, what are your best
tips/tricks/techniques for purchasing a chain. Where do you go for a long
chain?
What else do you think about with chain
Hey Doug,
I may be interested in the B17 saddle, but the link to your pics doesn't
seem to work for me.
Cheers, John
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 3:35:22 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
> I have some parts that I've accumulated the past couple of years that I
> need to sell to clear some space in
OK, those handup gloves are pretty darn fun. That may be the move.
BL in EC
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 6:43:02 PM UTC-7 Tom M wrote:
> If you find Cycology gloves too loud, you may not like these:
> https://handupgloves.com/collections/all-gloves. Still, check out the
> Summer of
The thread title is "roadbike curious" not drop-bar curious.
I ride a Bruce Gordon Taiwan BLT with a drop bar. It's like an original Sam
Hillborne -- basically the same geometry, and a frame that weighs 2700
grams by itself. It's stiff to carry a load on rough roads. I've ridden it
with road
Yeah thats a big haul too. New wheels, cockpit, brake setup, gearing
(potentially). New road focused bike is 100% the way to go. :)
PS: I would feel the same way about getting a bike that would then need a
cockpit overhaul automatically like that. A good deal gets to be less of
one when you
I'm doubling tripling down on the drop bar racing Platy. I've lost count
how many Platy's Leahs has, 2,3.4 ? IDK. I think the World won't stop
rotating to spare a drop bar Platy to try, at least initally, especially
since Leah has never even ridden any drop bars. Nor has she ridden a "real
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