While I've not ridden an Atlantis or Hunq, I can attest to the
advantage of the upsloping TT of the Hunq and Bomba. If you ride with
you bars anywhere near saddle height, this is a great advantage as you
don't need a tall stem. It's like riding a frame that has a front end
of a 4 cm. larger frame.
For 45-63ish degrees I just wear knee warmers by Defeet called
Kneekers. I wear them under my regular non padded loose fitting hiking
shorts. Wool ones are available too from Defeet and Ibex. Kneekers are
one size only, Ibex offers XS-L.
I know ... some people love knee warmers, some hate them.
Knee high socks of course! I have some Thorlo's. Sometimes I even
wear my knee warmers(if it's below 40), Defeet Kneekers. They are a
tubular knit. I have 2 pairs, one is kinda small of the thighs, but
it works perfectly for the calves.
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That's really great Jim, very helpful!
If I could add one, it would be the original_sept_9-1.pdf one with the
new Bombadil nd the SimpleOne fork.
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Okay, I have some P50 fenders on my Bombadil, and I have a set of
Michelin 2 XC AT tires that would be okay for the rail trail come
snow time, but I wondered about using them with the 50mm fenders,
since the Michelins are more or less the same width. This would only
be for the snowy months, and my
Great Patrick, thanks for the info. Woo-hoo now for some snow!
Not really though. More like survival. I dream of the warm desert in
winter.
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If you need spikes, make sure they are carbide. The ones from Nokian
and Schwalbe are, some cheaper tires are not. Carbide will far outlast
regular steel ones.
If you don't need spikes, there are many types of cyclocross tires,
ranging from fully knobbies to smoother center and ridges on the
A 64cm. Bombadil may fit you, it depends on how long you need your TT
to be. The Bombadil is notable longer.
BTW, the 64cm. Sam frame on the web site is $1250, not $1000. Bummer.
Keven told me it had not been updated.
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Jandd has a nice Trifold one http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FTFW
I was going to recommend Eagle Creek, but they've changed their
wallets, no more Trifolds. Too bad, I've used the same one for about
15 years. Lifetime warranty too, I had them replace the velcro on it
for no charge. The
...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks for this. Can you point me to the Schwalbe speed chart?
I am now torn between the Supremes and the 50 mm Liteskin Big Apple
... I know the 60 BAs are very nice rolling for their width, softeness
and bulk.
On Sat, Oct 30, 2010 at 7:49 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com
I forgot to add.the main difference in the Supremes and BA
Liteskin is durability and volume. For my $$, I'd choose the Supreme
because I perfer the longevity over the minor volume loss. Despite the
same labeled size, it will be a little smaller in width and volume,
2-3mm.
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Hey Patrick, who's to say you have to get both tires the same? Get one
of each!
While I thought I was kidding . come to think of it , why not?
It's funny how we assume we need the same tire front and rear, but the
two serve totally different functions and ride completely different.
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Black components are the trend with carbon frames. It will change, as
all things do. When who knows.
I always liked silver too, but I recently bought a Salsa Shaft
seatpost in black. It shows about 4 inches, and looks fine. What all
this has taught me is the silliness of my vanity. Would I
My Avocet broke back in the mid 80s. Ever since, I just ride. When I
raced back in the day I trained by time, and that has stuck with
me.
I see people wanting to take their iPads with them now too
attached to their handlebars! Talk about addicted to electronics.
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I bought a couple of Deore LX M581 RD's recently, all silver ones.
These models are from a couple of years ago.
http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/RD309A01-Shimano+Lx+M581+Rear+Derailleur.aspx?sc=FRGL
The problem with the good looking vintage RD's is the lack of
capacity. I have one of these
I agree that most pedals are either too short or too narrow, but BMX
pedals fix that.
BMX pedals for me. Wellgo MG-1's. I have 4 sets of them. They don't
have to be super heavy either, if that bothers someone, the MG-1's
have a magnesium body, 300-some grams. Large platform, great grip,
reliable.
You can remove the black anodizing yourself. Some use lye based oven
cleaner. or just lye.
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Yes 9 speed chains work just fine with 7 speed FW's. The only
difference in a 9sp vs. a 6,7,8sp chain is the outside width, the
inside width(the part that matters) is the same.
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First you must be sure the 46t and 30t rings will clear your frame,
and and at what distance. This will determine your bottom bracket
length and/or position with spacers.
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3-4mm is quite a bit. It sounds like someone filed it down to fit the
already tight spaces when used with a 107 or 110mm BB. It would b a
risk, but how much ... no one knows. You could use it and check it
every ride for cracks, but your health is not worth what you paid for
the crank.
Try
Goggles are great if you can breathe through your nose properly. I'm
one who cannot. Oakley makes a model called a Splice, that allows for
unrestricted breathing through the nose.
Whatever model you choose, you usually have to buy the clear lens
separate . it's just how it is. Everyone who
Have you contacted Avocet these days? They're still in business and
told me a year ago they were going to make saddles again. I never
followed up with them.
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Yeah, I resisted all black tires for years. Now, I love 'em.
Carefree.
It's like a lot of parts on the bike I never see while riding. . .
and frankly, I look at the bike while not riding for maybe 10 seconds
a day.
I'd say other than a simple wash, applying coatings and such may be
asking for a
I've got nothing
to lose. But it's really helped. All my digestive issues are gone.
Please, don't let the term raw fool you, put you off or raise your
defenses, though it likely will. It did me too! But, I stepped
through the fear. I mean, what could be worse than what I was
living? !!
-Garth
There's just so much mis-information about food out there. It'll make
your head spin.
Over the course of this summer I gradually changed from eating lots of
grains, vegetables, beans, fresh juices, eggs and occasionally chicken
and beef .. to one of mostly fruit, dark green leafy lettuces
Adam,
I ride a Bombadil and currently have a Mark's rack on the front,
and a Two Strut model I have yet to replace it with. I had to very
slightly bend the two shortest struts on the Marks rack t oclear my
canti's when open, and will have to do the same with the Two Strut
one. My canti's are
I drive a '99 Ford F150 with a fiberglass shell and a Bedrug(padded
marine grade carpet). Standard cab, standard bed. The gas mileage
isn't great, but I paid for it upfront when new, and maintenance costs
have been very low. The fuuny thing is though, despite it's large
size, it gets about the
I can understand you wanting to use a non dino based lube.
Paraffin never worked for me.
Last summer I started using Squirt Lube. It's a water based wax type
lube. I was pretty skeptical of it, but had to try it out. Ha! ...
it's been great. I get between 80-130 miles out of one application,
I can understand you wanting to use a non dino based lube.
Paraffin never worked for me.
Last summer I started using Squirt Lube. It's a water based wax type
lube. I was pretty skeptical of it, but had to try it out. Ha! ...
it's been great. I get between 80-130 miles out of one application,
On Jan 20, 10:20 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
Just curious, do any of you folks subscribe to Kirby Palm's crank
length formula:http://www.nettally.com/palmk/crankset.html
Makes intuitive sense to me, but with my shortish 83PBH I should be
using a 179mm crank! My first real bike
It doesn't matter what factory makes your Rivendell, period.
In truth, any of them can be near perfect, and any of them can have
flaws.
I have a frame from Waterford that was made with a mistake that needed
repair. I'm not here to denigrate them, rather to point out no one ...
absolutely no one
Fenders ARE magic!
I've been able to ride consistently all winter here near Pittsburgh on
the Bombadil :)
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The IRD FW's failing have nothing to do with the lube or cleaning
them. It's a well known issue they've had since they began making
them. They keep claiming to have fixed the problems with each version,
now up to Mark IV.
I don't think it's a coincidence Riv stopped selling them .
Harris Cycles
Grilver . Bla . Call it like you see it.
It looks like Midwest road spray on a winters day.
Colors are where it's at !
There's enough grays and blacks in the bike world.
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Eric,
Riv isn't going to make any drastic changes to the Hunq, or else
they'd have to call it something else.
What you see here is pure fantasy. One thought about TT's not being
parallel and all of the sudden we have a whole new frame?
Nah.
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If they're going diagonal . what do they do about water bottles ?
Design is one thing, but what about practicality?
While I agree with GP that triangles look better, and bicycles are all
about triangles .. more of them doesn't necessarily mean better.
Double top tubes parallel
looks
Do the bags adjust for heel clearance ?
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There's no difference in the spacing of of a 5/6/7sp IRD freewheel and
a 8sp cassette of any make. Standard Shimano spacing for all.
If you use a Suntour FW spacing varies .
Sachs FW's use Shimano compatible spacing also... as does Sunrace.
FW and cassette ride the same.
I prefer Phil
I'd go with a Phil FW or cassette hub any and every day over a
Shimano. My reason is a Phil hub is completely rebuildable and user
serviceable. Shimano bearing races are not replaceable, and here we
are in 2010 and we're still servicing cups and cones in hubs? I was
burned once by a Shimano hub
I've used them both, and the Silver shifter are by far easier to use
than Shimano. Silver shifters action is smooth and light, the DA is
stiff and heavy. if feels very un-natural.
That said, the Silver shifter were never intended to be used as bar
end shifters, so yes, they are potentially
If they combined the Grip King length and Touring pedal width, you'd
have a fine pedal. Pie in the sky though.
For large feet though, there is no substitute for the Wellgo MG-1.
Plenty of support, superb grip.
Not favored by tourists because of the looks. but what are pedals
for your
A simple reason triple are great for touring is redundancy in gears.
Use Mike Sherman's gear chart, and you'll get a good idea what a high
range double will be like shifting.
http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift
As stated ,low Q cranks will be a problem on many touring bikes. Use a
It really depends on the terrain one rides weather a HSG would work
for an individual. A 24/44/48 and a 13-32 7sp FW or even a 12-32 8sp
cassette is very versatile. I believe Robert Beckman still prefers
this drivetrain on his Sakkit Touring bikes. . . which are designed
for on and off road.
Happyriding,
You can build a frame to take wider tires and have a smaller Q than
say a Bombadil, but it would likely be a full custom frame designed
with modifications to the stays. No one has made a copy of the
Stumpjumper design, but even they couldn't handle much less than 147mm
wide crank..
It looks rather odd like that .. like the diagonal tube should be
extended. Loss of a prime bottle spot? Curious.
I'm with Rene .. I'm really really glad to have a Bombadil :)
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Riv frames have in the past typically had shorter TT's. I've read many
complaints about this. It's good they've made some longer ones now.
They have sufficient variety in frames to fit about anyone.
Longer TT's are perfect for using Albatross bars and such. To me a
bike is better balanced with a
In regards to the Tubus Nova, can it accept the wide tires of the
Bombadil or Atlantis ? Just wondering what the max width is.
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Can the Silver shifters be used on Paul Thumbies, or IRD's copy of
Paul's ?
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I'm still hanging in there using 6sp and 7sp FW's. I have some 13-32
Sachs, but wondered if anyone had any 12-28 or 13-28 or even 13-32's
they didn't want anymore. I'm not desperate, as IRD's 13-28's are
around, but the Sachs are preferred.
I'm open to Suntour stuff too, I've got some bodies,
These are standard braze-ons for the Bombadil. For the Atlantis, it
was a running change for later models.
There's no specific rack for these, just another mounting option for
some of the Nitto's, like Mark's rack .
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Thanks to Doug for sparing me some 13-28's. If anyone else has some
Sachs FW's, or spare cogs, or even broken bodies with the cogs, send
me email.
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Back to the original post of Ginz .. Tekto levers are fine. . .
nothing wrong with them.
I don't know what model of Tekto levers you bought from VO(none
currently listed), but the Tekro's I'm familiar with have a setting
for V brakes OR Cantilver. Are you sure you have them set for Canti's?
Okay, so now the Paul thumbies will work. Hooray.
I'm still wondering about the IRD ones. They appear to be threaded
like a DT boss, as opposed to the Thumbies replacing the stock bolt
with a long nut and bolt.
I don't see why they wouldn't work. I've emailed IRD to see if they
can offer a
Speaking of chain lube anyone tried Squirt? I'm considering trying
some out.
I've read mostly great things about it. The best part is after
the initial chain cleaning to rid it of petroleum, no more cleaning.
A waxed based lube that lasts?
Ginz,
The Tektros that I use (aka Performance Bike Forte Team levers aka
Tektro RT354AG) have a 2 position adjustable pull(linear/canti).
That's what the nut is for on the beginning of the lever arm. The
FL730 does not appear to have this, like many of their seemingly
infinite number of brake
I use the Enduro tool for cartdridge bearings(Suntour/Specialized).
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id61.html
It's available from most shops.
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Stronglight makes 130/74 triples w/OBB as stated.
http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/page.php?nom=produitkeyProd=zlightactivlinktri
Under the Strong Tech head, go to chainline and Q factor for specs.
Surly Mr. Whirly. With a 47.5mm chainline spindle it's a 166mm Q.
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Brass won't rust, it's made from copper and zinc. To keep it looking
good, use Brasso, a liquid in a small can, found at hardware stores.
It makes a great polish for non anodized Aluminum also.
As far as looks when it comes to bikes ... you've got no one to
please but yourself. You may or
I've used Wellgo MG-1's for a few years now on 2 bikes. Lots of grip,
lightweight Magnesium body. You can get them in silver, gray and a
host of colors. I get them on ebay for a fraction of retail.
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JIS tapers can and do vary from brand to brand. Some of the tapers
fit in further than others. From my experience, they can vary as much
as 4mm total, or 2mm each side.
Couple of things.
1. Did you measure the actual length of the VO BB?
2. Did you try using a 2mm driveside spacer underneath
The whole IRD/Riv FW thing confuses everyone I've talked to about it.
The guys at PW were kind enough to explain the IRD specific hub design
to me last year when I was deciding on hubs for another set of wheels.
Garth,
OK I spoke with our engineer for a little more feedback
I use a non traditional approach for brake levers with Albatross bars,
as I prefer the grips to be clear of obstructions. This gives me 12-13
inches of usable bar, and I use it all. The levers are Tektro RX 4.1.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/11316...@n04/3645057344/in/set-72157624156809417/
--
Pondero,
While setups are limitless, in general, the higher the bars, the
less stress on the hands. Most use them at saddle height or higher.
You really have to play with the angles to find out what's best for
you. I've had mine angled slightly down, but now they're more level.
This took away
I've been trying to track down some 28x2.0 Duremes, and it seems even
Schwalbe is out, and they have no idea when they'll be in stock
again. . other than 8 weeks minimum. Not what I wanted to hear.
So, I started looking outside the US, but only found one place that
had modest shipping costs.
There's always another frame. Wait until the bids are done, you may
not feel so bad.
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I deal with it by taking a small towel and/or bandanna with me to wipe
the sweat off. The towel works great for a quick stop to dry off,
especially after a big hill, and I have lots of them around my
home so I usually just end up holding the towel in my hands the
whole time.
I'm old school
Gee I must be getting old . My idea of a beater bike was
always a Schwinn Varsity or Sears Bike the ones from the 70's
that weighed like 45 pounds. The problem is these days even
those are sought after . so yeah the idea of a beater bike is
gone.
The bottom line is
Powderpiggy, I use FW's exclusively with 2 sets of Phil Touring
Hubs. I use mostly Sachs at present, but still have some Suntour
FW's. Because of the very inconsistent quality of the IRD's , I've
stayed away from them. I don't like IRD's cog selection on the 13-32
either, the 15-18 jump is too
Greetings everyone .. I'm in search of some smooth post
cantilever pads, or even new brakes . that don't squeal and work
at least good in if wet.
I was all set to use a NOS pair of Suntour XC Pro canti's for the
Bombadil, but the low profile's performance was not what I expected
because
As stated, Bullmoose bars disappeared for a good reason. No
adjustability in reach or angles. My '83 Stumpjumper had one, but
would-be thief tried damaged it in college. It was the best thing that
ever happened, as I got a Specialized Slingshot stem and bar instead.
Personally, the photo of the
I've never used a HE soap in my front loading machine in 12 years.
I've always just used half the amount of soap. Most laundry soaps
have instructions for front loading use these days. I use anything
from Tide unscented to Bio-Kleen. . . they all work fine.
Check the Ivory Snow label for
Yes, you can. In the West, you often have no other choice.
From http://nmshtd.state.nm.us/main.asp?secid=15675
Federal and state law and policies require that NMDOT provide for
bicycles throughout the state transportation system except where
bicycles are illegal. This requirement applies to
Actually, there are no Federal laws prohibiting bicycles from
Interstate highways . . it's up to the States themselves.
http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/bikeped/freeways.htm
Like cm stated though, urban areas are not allowed. Where the actual
starting point outside a city limit does require
I would have just said No .You Can Do It Yourself . . . after
the first My Tire Needs Air !
There's just no reason why she can't do these simple things for her
bike.
If you can't say no and have a good relationship . .. . . . you know
the answer.
Flat out though . . . . this is
When it comes to puncture resistance . . .how we forget how easily
even auto tires with steel belts get nails driven through them.
We are supposed to believe a bicycle tire can be puncture proof?
Solid rubber maybe . . . but so much for your ride :)
FYI Nashbar has the non TG versions from 28-35mm ,and 27 ones
from 1-1/8 all for $15.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_178263_-1___
The folding ones for $25.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_178272_-1___
No 37's though.
Wallbike also stocks the TG
Test rides can be somewhat helpful . . . but they are far from
conclusive as you don't really know how you like a frame until you own
it for a while. No different than cars, clothing etc. . . you're too
enamored with it at first to really notice what you don't like.
On a Bombadil, and I
There are times however, when a longer top tubed bike is preferred.
All other things being equal on the frame . . . a longer top tubed
bike, with it's added wheelbase . . will feel different than a
shorter bike.
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
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While you'll have no problem as far as spacing of the FW cogs, they
are standard Shimano spaced. Rear shifting will work fine. Adjusting
a RD is the same no matter your shifter.
If you want front indexed BTW, you can't mix road and mtb stuff, as
the shifters vary in cable pull because they are
The search function seems rather useless. It wasn't always this way, I
seem to remember a crash a while ago on this site. . . .are all the
old posts gone?
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
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Oh ... the irony.
DT shifters is likely a design decision, it's not as if there's a
shortage of DT shifters bosses is there?
The Irony is . . . why does the Waterford made Bomabadil have DT
shift bosses? . This kind of stops the thinking for a minute.
Who's gonna use DT shifters
With the popularity of 29ers, were seeing a start of some 110/74
doubles. The are essentially a refined 110/74 triple just made so
you cannot put an outer ring on them. It's just as easy to not put a
outer ring on your triple and you at least have an option to go back.
Here's some from Rotor
It seems a 94 BCD crank would serve many people better these days.
Rings from 30t to 50t are available. Again . . .the surge of 29ers
may make more available again. Sugino used to make 94/58 triples when
they were in vogue. . . but like many manufacturers once Shimano
ditched it. .
I can' wait to get my Bombadil going . . . but I'm waiting on some
crank width info as the Bombadil's chainstay clearance is tighter than
I expected. I'm hoping to use a TA Carmina in 185mm, but finding the
correct BB size appears to be trial and error. I need lower Q
cranks . . .like my
Silver aka SunTour Sprint shifters are King . . . ease and precision
in friction shifting is unmatched . . .Shimano's are like Friar
Tucks backyard experiment gone awry. LOL :)
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
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And it's too bad no one bought the tooling for the original Suntour
Power Ratchet Thumbshifters . I've used them since 1983. I have 3
pairs, and one new set from a Schwinn dealer close out for about $10.
But . . there's not much market these days for such friction
shifters . . . they are
65's? Not for the Bombadil... I think spec is 2.3 . . which is
58.4 mm. That would fit in the front . . . but I don't think the
rear would take that.
Sounds like you need a Puglsey! (If it's fits you) That way you could
use any tire you want to float over the sandy soil.
Hi Dave,
Hey, thanks for the help. So, from my understanding you have the
original Carmina arms, which were recommended with a 113 BB, but you
used a Phil 119 BB which gives you the clearance you stated.
What does your chainline measure BTW ?
I've only found one other person online who
Pedaling cadence is over blown in my opinion. We are not
machines . . .nor should we try to act like them. We have the
capacity to spin fast, slow and everywhere in between. Your body lets
you know how it will go best . I would just forget about your
cadence . . . .and listen to what your
Seth . . . I guess I always thought of them as TT levers as that's
how Tektro markets them . I've also got a pair of all black ones I got
for $5 ! I wanted silver levers . . . but for a five spot I couldn't
resist:) http://www.tektro.com/02products/12rl.php
The tires are Performance/Forte
BTW . . is there an actual product number/code for Albatross bars? I
see lots of Nitto bars with various numbers and names online in the
56cm. Al and Cro-mo that take bar end shifters. Some are called
B-352 . . some North Road. North Road appears to be an almost
generic term as these bars can
an XT/Tange 122.5 BB to try . . and it that's too big I'll
try the 118 IRD/Tange.
Oh yes . . . You use a 12-32 8sp? How many cogs can you use in your
in the 46t ring, 7 I assume?
-Garth
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Dave,
I appreciate the gearing info. I got a cassette wheel to try and a
12-32 8sp cassette. Since my Bombadil isn't complete yet I threw the
wheel on my road bike (135mm spacing,45.5mm chainline w/Zephyr triple
26/44/48) in a repair stand. I can see why you don't use the middle
ring/smallest
Well . . . there is no perfect way to do things though is there :)
Do the frames like the Sam fit a wider range of riders? Only time
and their sales figures will show that I suppose.
I'm with you about TT and bar height though. The seat tube height
isn't nearly so important as those two.
I'd buy the White or Phil . . .they are as good as it gets. These
are on the high end though. Then you have the cheap Shimano mtb hubs.
There is not much in between.
I won't use cup/cone hubs anymore. My last pair was 105's from the
90's and the bearing races were shot in less than one year.
I'd buy the White or Phil . . .they are as good as it gets. These
are on the high end though. Then you have the cheap Shimano mtb hubs.
There is not much in between.
I won't use cup/cone hubs anymore. My last pair was 105's from the
90's and the bearing races were shot in less than one year.
matters.
All roads eventually lead home.
-Garth
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if anyone has both Amphi pants/shorts and some MUSA
pants/shorts/knickers and can say if the nylon is about the same. ...
or not.
Is the belt good and stiff elastic, or is the cheap wimpy stuff that
doesn't really hold?
Is the belt removable/replaceable?
-Garth
I was about to get a Mark's rack... but it's out of stock again and no
ETA. I saw Riv added a R14 two strut version for front use though.
I've never used one of these but wondered about the stability and
or noise from the R14 wether 2 strut or back version.
For those that use them . do
Thanks for the replies. I think I may stick with Ex Officio's for
now. It doesn't sound like the elastic belt is what I'm looking for.
From the photos it appears the belt could be replaced rather simply as
it appears only to be stitched in one place but I'd rather get
them as I wanted. The
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