I put some low gears on my Atlantis:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robert-cooper-cycling/6905696438/in/photostream
Bob
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I too suspect a thicker washer is the solution.
Counterintuitively, sometimes when mechanical things slip, the
solution is to apply a thin layer of oil or grease to every metal-to-
metal interface including both sides of all washers and to all
threads. This enables you to tighten them more.
It
In an earlier post, I said that the Nitto saddlebag clap with quick-
release skewer (can’t remember official name of the product) only
works with Brooks saddles.
To clarify, it only positions the saddlebag where it should be
relative to the saddle, on a classic Brooks such as the Pro, B-17 and
so
Jim Mather said:
Not as cheap as Viva, but the QR feature is pretty handy:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r13.htm
And I say, this thing is da bomb. I have used it on tour, and like
everything Nitto, it's great.
BUT I think it only works with Brooks saddles.
Which is unfortunate.
Others
... the bicycle hangs down from
the top of the rim when being ridden
the weight is not being held up by the
bottom spokes.
However: Ian Smith. Bicycle Wheel Analysis. I conclude that it is
perfectly reasonable to say that the hub stands on the lower spokes,
and that it does not hang from
Superb collection. Do you want to provide more info (text)?
Bob Cooper
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rbw
Advice sought about riding in the gravel:
Conventional wisdom has it that, if the road surface is harder than
the tire, then knobbies are not an advantage, and a slick tire offers
more grip.
Today I fell on a steep ascent -- about 20+ percent -- on a road
covered in creek gravel the size of
Beautiful photos. Artistic. Wonderful lighting.
Bob
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Steel can take a lot and still function as designed.
Do regular maintenance, ride and enjoy.
Inspect the aluminum bits, like pedal eyes in the cranks and also
stem, handlebar.
Those regions are more likely to fail suddenly but even that's not
very common.
Bob Cooper
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The Hennessey Hammock is a brilliant idea on a number of levels.
But there may be a problem with the older camper -- I am 63 -- finding
a way to be comfortable enough in one to actually get some rest and
even some sleep.
I suggest that you try one, if you can, before you buy.
Hope this helps,
What tires do you have on the 56 (559 wheels)?
Bob
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Unintended consequences:
About a year ago, at the urging of three of the best cyclists in my
club, I got a mirror that replaces one of my bar plugs on my drop
bars.
This was for all of the obvious reasons. What wasn’t obvious is that
now I look down at the mirror every few seconds and my neck
Eric,
My 1991 Miyata Exerciser is set up this way.
Dura-Ace in the front; XTR in the back.
Works perfectly.
Unfortunately, there are hills around Naples, New York, that I can't
climb with a 39/34.
Oh, well,
Bob
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Dave,
That is one gorgeous bike. Thanks to Grant for designing it, and
thanks to you for posting the photos.
This tread also includes comments about bike weight. I noticed earlier
today on the Waterford site -- where they have scans of historic
Schwinn brochures -- that my 1961 Schwinn American
I forgot to mention that on this ride yesterday
http://www.highlandercycletour.com/
on September 11, 2010 (ominous), I dropped my chain going into the big
ring (46) halfway through the ride.
I decided to see how far I could get with just the 30/24 granny and
the 36/13 middle and the
What I did: Drill a tiny hole in the middle of the pedal body and
shoot it full of boat trailer grease.
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Ouch, Scott, that must have hurt.
Any further info? Manufacturing defect, worn chain, damage to chain
from stone?
I know these things are hard to diagnose.
Ride safe,
Bob
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Another reason that you need to be able to get out over the front of
the bike is that some hills are steep enough that the front tire will
leave the road unless you can counter that somehow with your upper
body.
Also, if your weight is too far forward, your back tire can lose
traction on surfaces
...what would be the benefit of this post?
Historically, from a practical POV, the clamp went with the saddle and
the post went with the frame.
Lots of frames were manufactured without standardized seat tube IDs.
The plain post would be very inexpensive to manufacture in a plethora
of sized.
, Easton, Suntour XC Pro, Suntour
Superbe Pro, American Classic or even the Nitto S-65 of which I think
I have three and the Thompson Elite of which I have three.
None of these is junk, but the S-83 is better. How do they do it? A
masterpiece of design and execution.
Bob Cooper
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seat tube angle and this
seatpost:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7556...@n06/2180468983/in/photostream/
Or this one:
http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-wayback-seat-post-272-x-250mm/11-048
Enjoy,
Bob Cooper
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René,
Thanks for the comments.
However, I doubt that brake design has much of an effect on shimmy. By
the way, here I define “shimmy” as a mind-numbing terror at an
oscillation of maybe 120 cycles per second and an imminent crash.
“Shimmy” sounds like a silly dance that they did in the 1920s,
Some data points:
I have a Rivendell Road Custom, a Rambouillet, an Atlantis, two Miyata
Exercisers, a Miyata Road Gentleman, four Raleighs and a Peugeot
PX-10.
They all shimmy.
For what it’s worth,
Bob Cooper
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If I have ten bikes and they all shimmy, and Rider X has ten bikes and
none of them shimmy, I think this points in this direction:
It’s the rider, not the bike.
How else can it be explained?
Bob Cooper
On Aug 8, 3:15 pm, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:
Funny. I've had well over
I am fortunate to have a local hardware store that has a box with at
least one of every conceivable small spring.
You might try that route.
Bob
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Just an aside from a guy who doesn’t do a lot of brevets, but a few
and some touring and some dirt and some rain and some snow:
Most bikes are like most lenses (photography analogy) in that they
work well under most conditions. It’s when the unusual conditions
arrive, when the going gets tough,
What we need out here in the real world is a Team Pro with steel rails
and bag loops.
Are you listening, Mr. Brooks?
Bob
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On Feb 24, 9:50 pm, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
You can also click the expand all link at the top of the page...
That's what I thought was odd.
The EXPAND ALL button doesn't work.
This is the first time in a decade of surfing these types of lists
that this has ever happened to me.
I was wondering why some of the messages of this thread
http://tinyurl.com/d4o3tj
don't seem to open, while some do.
Regards,
Bob
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Regarding weight limits, a guy in my club is a very powerful rider
with barrel chest and legs like tree trunks.
He weights well over 200 pounds.
On a steep climb about five years ago he twisted the cogs off of his 9-
speed Dura-Ace hub. Destroyed the cassette or at least the spider with
the
Here's what to do.
She has put this Rambouillet out in the marketplace, and that means
that we have an opportunity to contribute to its value.
Just get in there and bid on it.
What would this bike be worth without the history? Multiply by two.
Regards,
Bob
PS: What does a Rambouillet have
What is it about Phil BBs that, when cranked down hard they fail, yet
Shimano BBs (UNxx) when cranked down hard are fine?
Does Shimano have this little feature under patent?
Bob
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Say you had a friend who had a Rambouillet, most of which have a rear
axle spacing of 132.5, as does this one.
And suppose this friend of yours was a klutz at getting the wheel in
and out quickly, and he wanted to make some changes to his setup.
Would you advise him to
1--Cold-set the frame to
and the ball-pein hammer. But lo, that looks like the
next step.
I’ll post a picture when done, with or without fenders (defeat!).
Thanks for your help,
Bob Cooper
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