Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

[Chintan Jadwani]

Thanks all for your clarifications! Agree with the comments regarding the
reliability of shimano components - I've usually had little reason to move
on from my Altus/Acera RD except durability of the pulleys on the Acera
perhaps. Shifted very well every time.

I have received a nice RD from a rbw member - thank you :)
chintan

On Wed, 20 Mar 2024 at 23:04, Richard Rose  wrote:

> My only rapid rise - a beautiful Nexave courtesy of JJ - has made me a big
> fan. In particular, I am quite happy with my non rapid rise Deore unit on
> my Clem which gets lots of flatlander miles. But my Gus gets the
> singletrack hills. This is where the Nexave has one huge benefit. It takes
> zero effort to shift to an easier gear when I need it most.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 20, 2024, at 1:14 PM, J J  wrote:
>
> I'm 100 percent with Jock on this issue. It's hard to take the Disraeli
> Gears comments about the XT RD-M760 seriously, dripping as they are with
> dismissiveness. We've had long threads on this forum about low normal
> derailleurs before, and I still find the myths that circulate about Rapid
> Rise perplexing. For example, the myths that Rapid Rise performs "worse"
> than high normal, or it's harder to set up or index, or that (per the
> Disraeli Gears comments) it's somehow more prone to rust than other
> derailleurs in the same general series, like the XT M750,  built with the
> same material.
>
> The reason I favor RR comes down to a shifting logic that works better for
> my brain and motor coordination than high normal. I shift in friction mode
> on all my bikes, which all have low normal rear ders. I like that I can
> move both levers in the same direction to get to higher/harder or
> lower/easier gears instead of moving oppositely. That's about it. I do
> think there are a few other benefits of RR: if my shift cable broke, the RR
> spring will push the derailleur to the easiest gear instead of the hardest,
> thus avoiding a potential high-gear slog home. But how often do cables
> break? RR also seems to shift more easily to lower/easier gears under load.
> But maybe this is a misattribution. Maybe I've simply gotten better about
> timing my shifts and floating the pedals.
>
> It does not mean that I have *trouble* with high normal shifting! To the
> contrary, high normal is just fine. Low normal is just a preference. What
> works great for Rapid Rise adherents won't necessarily work great for
> anyone else. Once you try RR, the possible outcomes will be that you like
> it, you hate it, or that you're more or less neutral about it. (You will
> also realize that one way or another, it is not earth shattering or life
> changing, nor will it make you a more skilled and faster rider).
>
> Any shifts I have missed or bungled are totally attributable to user
> error, to my timing or judgement, and not anything inherent to a high
> normal vs. low normal modality.
>
> Finally, all Rapid Rise rear ders I have tried, from the humble end to the
> fancy XTRs, work beautifully. The differences between them are refinement
> level, materials, weight, looks, aesthetics, and so on, just like every
> other Shimano product categories that are stratified by price point.
>
> On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 10:38:41 PM UTC-4 John Dewey wrote:
>
>> @ http://disraeligears.co.uk/…well I suppose if you pedal around in a
>> saltwater bath, like some of those unfortunate souls…that might happen.
>>
>> For those us who ride under sunny skies now and again—and take care of
>> stuff properly—I can tell you that after years and years of working those
>> mechs, never a mixed-up shift that wasn’t my doing and not even a
>> microscopic spot of corrosion to be found anywhere.
>>
>> Total hooey I say. And I’ve got the goods to prove it 浪
>>
>> Jock
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:15 PM Chintan Jadwani 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Another question - from a couple of reviews here people seem
>>> indifference of the performance between low vs high normal. But online
>>> elsewhwre, there seems to be strong dislike for low normal - why is that?
>>>
>>> For example - disraeligears.co.uk writes for the xt m760
>>>
>>> "The Shimano Deore XT (M760) is my absolutely least favourite Deore XT
>>> variant. It has cheap (rust prone) detailing, unnecessary styling and,
>>> worst of all, it’s low normal. not your obvious choice for slogging your
>>> way through the mud and grime of a British winter. Bring back stainless
>>> steel small parts, polished finishes and top normal operating logic."
>>>
>>> On Wed, 20 Mar, 2024, 5:07 am John Dewey,  wrote:
>>>
>>>> And the

Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

[Chintan Jadwani]

Another question - from a couple of reviews here people seem indifference
of the performance between low vs high normal. But online elsewhwre, there
seems to be strong dislike for low normal - why is that?

For example - disraeligears.co.uk writes for the xt m760

"The Shimano Deore XT (M760) is my absolutely least favourite Deore XT
variant. It has cheap (rust prone) detailing, unnecessary styling and,
worst of all, it’s low normal. not your obvious choice for slogging your
way through the mud and grime of a British winter. Bring back stainless
steel small parts, polished finishes and top normal operating logic."

On Wed, 20 Mar, 2024, 5:07 am John Dewey,  wrote:

> And the Rivendell ‘fan base’ is a subset of another and another so as to
> be mostly inconsequential. We do count, however and a few brave souls do
> sort-of OK serving us.
>
> Nevertheless, most of us (even here in RBW’s backyard) seldom cross paths
> with cyclists with whom we have anything in common other than two wheels.
> We’re already a bit abnormal and ‘low-normal’ makes us even more so.
>
> Jock (and his fleet of abnormal low-normals)
>
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 9:41 AM Johnny Alien 
> wrote:
>
>> I have to think that most of the market for these is from the Rivendell
>> fan base. I don't hear any other bike group talking about them at all.
>> Because of that I kind of think IF Riv ends up bringing their new one to
>> market the used scene will come WAY down. Just a theory. I really hope that
>> I can test the theory (because they successfully release it)
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 12:14:10 PM UTC-4 chintan...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you all for the replies :) Now that I know of the RR, every time I
>>> am on an uphill and I have to push the gear to climb higher on the cassette
>>> I feel some justification for having a "low-normal" derailleur.
>>>
>>> Thanks also for clarifying that any of these will work well.
>>>
>>> The RR will also hypothetically make life a little easier in introducing
>>> a friend to front and rear shifting- why does the same action push the bike
>>> to a higher gear in the front and lower gear in the rear (I forget too..)
>>>
>>> On Tue, 19 Mar 2024 at 20:58, Miles Payton  wrote:
>>>
>>>> I got a used XTR M951 long cage derailleur for a song on ebay a few
>>>> months ago. Maybe there's not much demand? The seller gave me a half off
>>>> offer so I couldn't refuse. Anyway it works great and it appears they're
>>>> usually $50-80 depending on the condition. Not bad for what was once a
>>>> top-of-the-line derailleur. I'd just avoid the NOS stuff because that's
>>>> where you start spending $200 or more.
>>>> I've been plenty happy with mine. It's paired to Gevenalle 10 speed
>>>> shifters on my Atlantis. I can't speak to replacement parts but it wouldn't
>>>> be expensive to replace, and my old M900 hasn't needed more than a rebuild
>>>> in 20 years. They're pretty well-made.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 12:01:39 PM UTC-5 chintan jadwani wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking to try a RR derailleur and want something under 50-60
>>>>> ideally.
>>>>>
>>>>> Which ones would you recommend? Were there are early RR derailleurs
>>>>> that one should stay from or budget ones that are a good value? Were there
>>>>> differences in pulley sizes - so would be better to get one where
>>>>> replacements are available?
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm currently seeing an LX m580, xt M760, an xtr m951 and xtr m952
>>>>> around that range on ebay in different used conditions...and then the
>>>>> prices rise very quickly!
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks a lot for guiding :)
>>>>> Chintan
>>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

[Chintan Jadwani]

Thank you all for the replies :) Now that I know of the RR, every time I am
on an uphill and I have to push the gear to climb higher on the cassette I
feel some justification for having a "low-normal" derailleur.

Thanks also for clarifying that any of these will work well.

The RR will also hypothetically make life a little easier in introducing a
friend to front and rear shifting- why does the same action push the bike
to a higher gear in the front and lower gear in the rear (I forget too..)

On Tue, 19 Mar 2024 at 20:58, Miles Payton  wrote:

> I got a used XTR M951 long cage derailleur for a song on ebay a few months
> ago. Maybe there's not much demand? The seller gave me a half off offer so
> I couldn't refuse. Anyway it works great and it appears they're usually
> $50-80 depending on the condition. Not bad for what was once a
> top-of-the-line derailleur. I'd just avoid the NOS stuff because that's
> where you start spending $200 or more.
> I've been plenty happy with mine. It's paired to Gevenalle 10 speed
> shifters on my Atlantis. I can't speak to replacement parts but it wouldn't
> be expensive to replace, and my old M900 hasn't needed more than a rebuild
> in 20 years. They're pretty well-made.
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 12:01:39 PM UTC-5 chintan jadwani wrote:
>
>> I'm looking to try a RR derailleur and want something under 50-60 ideally.
>>
>> Which ones would you recommend? Were there are early RR derailleurs that
>> one should stay from or budget ones that are a good value? Were there
>> differences in pulley sizes - so would be better to get one where
>> replacements are available?
>>
>> I'm currently seeing an LX m580, xt M760, an xtr m951 and xtr m952 around
>> that range on ebay in different used conditions...and then the prices rise
>> very quickly!
>>
>> Thanks a lot for guiding :)
>> Chintan
>>
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[RBW] Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

[chintan jadwani]

I'm looking to try a RR derailleur and want something under 50-60 ideally.

Which ones would you recommend? Were there are early RR derailleurs that 
one should stay from or budget ones that are a good value? Were there 
differences in pulley sizes - so would be better to get one where 
replacements are available?

I'm currently seeing an LX m580, xt M760, an xtr m951 and xtr m952 around 
that range on ebay in different used conditions...and then the prices rise 
very quickly! 

Thanks a lot for guiding :)
Chintan

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rim life - shimano vs. other brake pads?

[chintan jadwani]

Thread successfully derailed :) 

FWIW - this thread and article triggered the question for me whether I 
should continue using the Shimano pads I have on my bike (s) or replace 
them.

https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=1236.0
https://novemberbicycles.com/blogs/blog/brake-pad-tech-rim-brakes
On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 5:26:37 AM UTC+5:30 Bernard Duhon wrote:

>  
>
>  
>
> I have two sets of 26 inch rims: 
>
> one has dots periodically drilled into the surface. When the surface gets 
> worn down & the dots disappear and you should replace the rim.
>
>  
>
> I have another set which has a groove all the way around the rim in the 
> center of the breaking surface. When that grove disappears it's time to 
> replace the rim.
>
>  
>
> It was a practice common though not universal in mountain bike rims.
>
>  
>
> All rim brake manufacturers should do that.
>
>  
>
> Measuring wear with a set of calipers is imprecise at best.
>
>  
>
> Each rim manufacturer may have different standards as to how thin the 
> breaking surface can get before replacement. If they do there are  a lot of 
> “ safety considerations ” baked in.
>
>  
>
> After 12,000 miles of few gravel & fewer hills the  “dots” are still 
> visible.> 
>
>  
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  *On 
> Behalf Of *Brian Forsee
> *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 9:56 AM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Rim life - shimano vs. other brake pads?
>
>  
>
> At the risk of sending this thread on a tangent, I will pose a related 
> question.
>
>  
>
> How do you measure rim wear due to braking? Anecdotally? Or do you put 
> numbers to it? How worn do you go before replacing a rim purely due to 
> brake wear?
>
>  
>
> -Brian 
>
>  
>
> On Monday, March 4, 2024 at 8:45:46 AM UTC-6 josh.yo...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> 100% agree with Will. I use Swissstop GXP Blues on my road bikes and Kool 
> Stop salmons on everything else (Paul’s, MAFAC’s, etc.). I find that Kool 
> Stop blacks chew through rims in our Seattle weather. 
>
>  
>
> Josh
>
> Seattle, WA
>
> On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 11:56:18 AM UTC-8 Will Boericke wrote:
>
> I only ever use Kool Stop Salmon or SwissStop BXP.  No other pad is worth 
> my time.  I fully realize my post is not useful to you at all :)
>
>  
>
> Will
>
>  
>
> On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 4:51:29 AM UTC-5 chintan jadwani wrote:
>
> I was looking for reviews on a specific rim (Sun CR18) and ended up on a 
> Thorn forum where users kept mentioning that they were experiencing shorter 
> rim life as Shimano brake pads were eating up the brake surface much faster 
> - and switching brake pads made a significant difference.
>
>  
>
> I'm curious if any of your experiences have been similar?
>
>  
>
> chintan
>
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>

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[RBW] Re: 3rd parties for bike sales

[chintan jadwani]

Haven't gone that large but collectively i must have made over $1000 of 
stranger buys from facebook - thankfully all has been positive. 

Nothing foolproof but i check their profiles (fb shows old their profile 
is, how many friend's they have), how many poducts they have for sale or 
sold + what kind, some bike sellers would have other bike related products 
also for sale, asking relevant questions regarding the bike (also questions 
only a biker would feel relevant to answer) and the product description 
they write helps, ask for more specifics of pictures (close-up of 
drivetrain etc) . Some people also have marketplace reviews if you're 
lucky. Also if youre lucky and they have the original invoice :)

Good luck! 

On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 5:56:52 AM UTC+5:30 James wrote:

> Has anyone here experimented with 3rd party websites for "large" purchases 
> from strangers?  I'm looking to buy a bike from someone on FB marketplace 
> and it's not a local sale.  So in essence I'm sending over $1,000 to a 
> stranger on their word.  What have ya'll done, if anything, to make sure 
> you aren't getting scammed (asides from getting a sense of their character 
> over the phone)?

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[RBW] Re: Hub recommendations for Velocity Cliffhangers

[chintan jadwani]

Another recommendation to confuse you :)

https://analogcycles.com/products/bitex-touring-hubs

On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 8:14:15 PM UTC+5:30 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> The OP is looking for "a hub" for their Appaloosa.  The Appaloosa takes a 
> 10x135mm rear hub and a 9x100 front hub.  The OP is leaning towards Paul 
> and does not need a dynamo, which indicates they are looking for a FRONT 
> hub.  Paul makes two 9x100 Front Hubs that would both be lovely on an 
> Appaloosa:
>
> https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/hubs/front-hubs/high-flange-front/
> https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/hubs/front-hubs/fhub/
>
> I think the Paul is a terrific front hub, and it's fun that every Paul 
> product comes with a Paul Sticker, and you get to put a Paul Sticker on 
> your bike now that you are running Paul bling.  If there was anybody who 
> wanted the functional equivalent of a Paul front hub for a lot less money 
> than a Paul front hub, I'd point them at the Surly Ultra New, which comes 
> with bolts, but you can just remove the bolts and use it as a QR hub with a 
> skewer if you like.  No issues,  
>
> Unless I am mis-reading the OP, all REAR hub recommendations are 
> un-necessary.  If the OP is looking at a Paul REAR hub, that means we're 
> talking about a single-speed Appaloosa, which would be really interesting, 
> or maybe even a 3x1 Appa, which would be fun.  :)
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Saturday, March 2, 2024 at 10:55:35 AM UTC-8 iwri...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I'd appreciate some recommendations for a new hub for my Appaloosa. I 
>> don't backpack, so a dynamo is unnecessary. I'm leaning towards a Paul hub 
>> because of its minimalist aesthetic, but if there's a hub you all love, 
>> please let me know! Thanks.
>
>

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[RBW] Rim life - shimano vs. other brake pads?

[chintan jadwani]

I was looking for reviews on a specific rim (Sun CR18) and ended up on a 
Thorn forum where users kept mentioning that they were experiencing shorter 
rim life as Shimano brake pads were eating up the brake surface much faster 
- and switching brake pads made a significant difference.

I'm curious if any of your experiences have been similar?

chintan

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Re: [RBW] Options for converting Silver-1 barend shifters to thumbies?

[Chintan Jadwani]

Maybe this ?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/jtek-special-thumb-shifter-brackets-for-222-mm-bars-black/


On Sat, 11 Nov, 2023, 9:43 pm Jon Craig (Vendraen), 
wrote:

> So what options exist for converting Silver-1 barend shifters to thumbies?
> That don't cost a fortune - $60-$70 per shifter seems just crazy honestly.
> Is there anything more reasonable?
>
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] NMSW

[chintan jadwani]

Hi Josh

In the recent rivendell email, an appaloosa was linked which has the 
following on it's description page

"Another caveat: We always prefer non-machined sidewalls because they last 
longer, but when paired with salmon pads, they squeal until the rims are 
more broken in. We're including a set of non salmon pads with this bike, so 
you can swap them out if it's too noisy. A couple rides in the rain or lots 
of dusty rides should do the trick as well. See the pads in the pictures."

Chintan
On Saturday, August 19, 2023 at 6:16:18 PM UTC+5:30 Josh C wrote:

> @tell, John: thanks for the reply. I appreciate the insight; it helps. I 
> think I'll stick with the NMSW Cliffhangers. 
>
> On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 7:45:59 PM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> Hey Josh,
>>
>> I recently built up some Velocity Cliffhangers with nmsw. I also have a 
>> set that do have machined sidewalls. I've run them both- mostly in dry 
>> conditions, but some wet- and I can't really tell any difference in 
>> stopping time or power. I have a pair of Avid arch supremes doing the rim 
>> grabbing and they are amazing. So, maybe in comes down to the kind of 
>> brakes, but in my case no discernable difference.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Cheers, John
>>
>> On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 4:40:18 PM UTC-7 tellyoutoday wrote:
>>
>>> I had this concern before getting some non-machined Atlases a few years 
>>> back. Turned out to not matter at all for performance from my perspective, 
>>> and once your pads pick up some dust/grit they will rough up the rim 
>>> surface a bit anyway. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>>>
 Thanks!

 He didn't exactly say not to go with the cliffhangers just said "hey 
 those rims are NMSW, are you ok with that?" which gave me pause. So I 
 thought about it and all of my rim brake wheels have had machined side 
 walls. Maybe a BMX bike or two when I was young were NMSW but I can't 
 remember. Figured I'd ask before ordering wheels and regretting it. 

 On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 6:44:21 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> That is very odd. Aren't machined brake tracks relative recent (I 
> mean, starting from the 1990s, or perhaps 1980s? People managed to stop 
> just fine before that. And I've been using a stash of Sun M14As and 
> ME14As 
> for almost 30 years and those don't have machined braking tracks; salmon 
> pads stop just fine on my single pivot calipers.
>
> All the old road bike rim classics: MA2s, Open Pros, etc,? Hell, even 
> chromed steel rims work fine with cheap rubber brake pads in dry 
> conditions.
>
> I think he's trying to sell you a new pair of rims. 
>
> On Fri, Aug 18, 2023 at 4:19 PM Josh C  wrote:
>
>> Looking for your take on non-machined side wall wheels with rim 
>> brakes. Poor stopping power? 
>>
>> I don't have experience with NMSW and rim brakes but just reached out 
>> to a wheel builder about building a set of polished cliffhanger wheels 
>> and 
>> they cautioned me regarding the NMSW. Figured I'd see what experience 
>> you 
>> all have with 'em. 
>>
>> Thanks 
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Rivendell T-shirt sizing

[chintan jadwani]

Hello, 

Can anyone help me with the sizing for the Rivendell t-shirts please? I 
want to know the difference between their small and medium..

(if this has been answered previously, please let me know - I'll try to 
look for it again)

thank you :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Handlebar Suggestions

[chintan jadwani]

you could dip your feet by starting cheap ($18) with the (well-made) wald 
handlebars and see how you like it -

https://www.industrialbicycles.com/wald-products-896.aspx

for inspiration 



On Wednesday, June 28, 2023 at 8:03:23 AM UTC+5:30 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> When I made my switch I used my current setup as a starting point. I 
> measured from my saddle to the hood position and then swapped the bars and 
> measured to the grips. The bars ended up coming back something like 3-4cm 
> so I added that length to the stem I had on there. YMMV
>
> You can also use whatbars.com to compare the reach of your noodles to 
> many popular alt bars. Shows you the relative change of reach. 
>
> Eliot
>
> On Tue, Jun 27, 2023 at 2:33 PM Drew Henson  wrote:
>
>> I had some choco bars on my sam which I loved. I recently swapped bars 
>> between a crust romanceur and the sam, with rene hearse rando bars going on 
>> the sam and chaco going on the crust, but I'm already planning to put 
>> upright bars back on the sam. Thinking I'm going to try to the Ahearne+Map 
>> bars.
>>
>> On Monday, February 13, 2023 at 9:20:32 AM UTC-8 charlie...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I swapped some 46mm Noodles for a Bull Bar a few days ago and am very 
>>> happy with the results. Not super aero, but the bike feels more capable and 
>>> is way more fun to ride now. Wish I had done this sooner!
>>>
>>> [image: IMG-0318-min.jpg]
>>>
>>> Charlie in Maine
>>>
>>> On Sunday, February 12, 2023 at 4:30:04 PM UTC-5 BobW wrote:
>>>
 I'm contemplating moving my Sam Hillborne from dropbar Noodles to some 
 kind of upright/swept back handlebar, and to be honest, I am a bit 
 overwhelmed by the various options.  By way of background, all I have ever 
 know are dropbar handlebars; but at 60, I'm thinking the sweptback/upright 
 might be a more comfortable option for my back!!  I like the idea of the 
 aerodynamic benefit of the drops, so wondering what style of upright might 
 offer aero for the occasional headwind.  From what I have read on this as 
 well as a few other forums, the RBW Billiebars seems to get high marks.  I 
 realize bar styles are somewhat subjective, however hoping the vast wisdom 
 of the RBW Owners Bunch might educate me.  TIA!!

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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Jandd Touring Racks -

[chintan jadwani]

Hello, sent you a PM :)

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:35:28 PM UTC+5:30 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
PA wrote:

> Front (Extreme)  and rear (Expedition) racks in my excess pile - very well 
> built. Dusty with a few paint chips. $50 + actual shipping from PA for both 
> or can arrange for local pick up. 
>
> Marty
>
>  [image: PXL_20230417_141757240.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Watch our for scammers in the group

[chintan jadwani]

I only recently started building my bike with some thought and forum 
discussions of this group showed up in my Google search. I decided to join 
after reading some relevant discussions and the FS email chains gave me 
some confidence to buy directly from the members.

I've made only one purchase "attempt", which failed because after I made 
the payment the seller told me that it was not according to the terms and 
after a couple of messages to redo the transaction, stopped responding. 
This was a weird experience because I'd made a payment and still was 
accused of being a scammer. Anyway, I tried to be nice, to at least get a 
refund from the payment company - but got no response. Can't completely 
blame the seller, must have had bad experiences. I've made a couple of 
purchases from the bob group without any hassles and am confident future 
purchases will be positive here too :)

Chintan


On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 9:56:42 PM UTC+5:30 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I'm surprised at this, having bought and sold many times on this list (and 
> even much more on the Boblist) with no problems I can remember except 2 or 
> 3 instances of excited people piping up ME! ME! ME! upon a FS announcement 
> and then never replying to your email replies.
>
> Conway, can you elaborate on the grief? Just invalid paypal payments?
>
> Others, can you describe your bad experiences of selling and buying onlist?
>
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 10, 2023 at 6:00 AM Conway Bennett  
> wrote:
>
>> Yes, lots of lurkers here.  I recently have had issues with questionable 
>> PayPal payments and having unknown quantities ask a bunch of questions 
>> about FS: items then disappear.  I actually prefer just selling on eBay now 
>> because of the grief associated with the list.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: The Great Parts Purge of 2023 - part 1

[chintan jadwani]

Hi Eric

Contacted you reg. the bb7 calipers and the pedals

Thanks 

On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 6:27:31 PM UTC+5:30 frank_a wrote:

> Hello Eric,
>  I’ve sent an email re: Sugino 172.5 crank arms.
> Thanks,
>  -Frank
> On Sunday, March 5, 2023 at 12:22:32 AM UTC-5 saintruggler wrote:
>
>> Doing a little spring cleaning. Lots of bobs and bits, including 
>> chainrings (oooh!) and shiny levers (a!) and even a few shifty doodads 
>> from the modern era.
>>
>> All parts are listed in a Google Sheet here: 
>> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iUsY8V8ZtkDKj393jP5d9vsX_P8YSxadZqcT6jcH3QY/
>>
>> Send me a direct message if there's something you want. I will update the 
>> sheet itself and probably won't send "sold" notices via the list. That 
>> said, I may bump when more parts get added.
>>
>> For photos, go to https://photos.app.goo.gl/S8tJbznRhfbCqHSh9. 
>>
>> Prices in the spreadsheet are all OBO, so let's make a deal! You pay 
>> actual shipping from W. Oregon.
>>
>> -Eric
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus questions

[chintan jadwani]

Hi Doug

Whats your current stem and handlebar setup? I think the platypus will have 
a longer reach than your Atlantis but you can get the bars closer with the 
Bosco/tosco handlebars (i think they come back 10 inches from the stem 
clamp). Another way to make the reach easier is to get your handlebars 
higher :) see https://www.rivbike.com/pages/the-top-tube-ruse

Good luck!

On Thursday, February 9, 2023 at 8:32:04 AM UTC+5:30 krhe...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Richard...
>
> I highly praise your words of explaining your love and appreciation for 
> your 52cm Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle from the design to the specific 
> details that makes the Clems' so wonderful to ride. 
>
> Thank-you.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
> ... it is time to go ride tomorrow.
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 8, 2023 at 11:24:21 AM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I am no bike geometry expert & I’ve really only ridden one Rivendell, my 
>> size 52 Clem “L”. I am not counting my size 57 Gus as I’ve only ridden it 
>> (sans brakes) down the street to check fit. It has a lot in common with the 
>> Clem, obviously.
>> I think there is a lot more to this design formula than designing around 
>> really setback bars like the Bosco. I don’t think it is accidental that 
>> these bikes feel so “roomy” and unbelievably comfortable. The long stays & 
>> resulting wheelbase are a big part of the comfort but it’s the front end 
>> that really gets my attention. That front wheel is WAY out there 
>> eliminating any possibility of pedal overlap even with one’s feet (like 
>> mine) slid forward to the mid foot position. The flat part of the bar is 
>> also way out there especially on my bike with a 135 length stem. Of course 
>> the extreme backsweep makes it all work but the end result is this 
>> incredibly roomy cockpit. It’s one of my favorite things about these bikes 
>> and it has ruined me for any bike that puts the bars & front wheel closer 
>> to me. YRMV.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 8, 2023, at 12:30 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>>
>> From what I have seen pretty much every Rivendell has a longer reach 
>> these days vs the Toyo days because they are designed around sweptback 
>> bars. Which I am always a little confused by because you want to get the 
>> bars closer but you have to extend the reach through geometry or long stems 
>> to do it. Seems like the end result is usually the same. But yeah...I would 
>> bet the Platy has a longer reach than a Toyo Atlantis. I know my Clem L is 
>> way out there. I keep a short stem on it with Toscos to get it where it 
>> works for me.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 8, 2023 at 12:17:15 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Doug — If you haven't yet I'd recommend calling Rivendell, someone 
>>> there would be happy to talk to you about the differences in the frames. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 7, 2023 at 9:26:37 PM UTC-5 mma...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hi Doug! Although not platypuss, I have clem L in both 59cm and 52cm if 
 you want to take a test ride. Holler at me, I'm in the Valley.
 - Matt
 On Tuesday, February 7, 2023 at 5:08:01 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:

> Thanks for the response, Kim. Really, any Rivendell step thru is an 
> option. I don't do any trail riding so the Platypus is sufficient & I'm 
> guessing will have a softer ride than one of the more trail capable 
> frames. 
> A major factor will be what's available, and with Riv's current delivery 
> program one has to be ready to make a decision & commit on short notice. 
>
> doug
>
> On Tuesday, February 7, 2023 at 6:44:22 AM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Doug,
>>
>> With the purchase of my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle, it was the best 
>> option for me in choosing a bicycle with a step-through frame with an 
>> upright riding position as a senior cyclist. Yes, I had trouble swinging 
>> my 
>> right leg over the back end of my previous bike, as well.  I have been 
>> looking for these requirements in a bike for quite a few years.  
>> Furthermore, I enjoy the Clem's capabilities as being a ATB. A very 
>> solid 
>> and sure-footed bike. 
>>
>> The Clem maybe an option for you ?
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 6, 2023 at 7:44:54 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:
>>
>>> I love my Atlantis, but it's getting harder to swing the old leg 
>>> over the saddle. Time to move on to a step thru. The Platypus looks 
>>> like 
>>> the best option for my riding, mostly short trips around town. 
>>>
>>> The 55 cm fits my PBH (84) & saddle height. What I'm interested in 
>>> doing is comparing the geometry to my 58 cm Toyo Atlantis. 
>>> Specifically, 
>>> I'm curious about the distance of the seat from the bars. I seem to be 
>>> shrinking in my old age & the reach on the Atlantis is just a bit too 
>>> far.