Re: [RBW] Hillibikes are so close!

2022-05-25 Thread Invisible
This is the first I'm hearing that you can have tubes knurled on the 
aftermarket... how did they do it?

On Tuesday, May 24, 2022 at 8:16:15 AM UTC-7 Erik wrote:

> Knurling the seat post at the collar and about three inches down the 
> insertion into the seat tube.  Worked like a charm.  I've had this done on 
> a bike before when I was having a problem with slipping.  
>
> On Tuesday, May 24, 2022 at 5:31:59 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> What was the fix for the slipping seat post?
>>
>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Top Ten Names for the next Rivendell Bike

2010-05-07 Thread Invisible
The correct answer is, as always, Blunderbuss.

-W

On May 5, 1:20 pm, Bridgestone alancr...@mac.com wrote:
 Top Ten Names for the next Rivendell Bike

 10. Travelino

 9. Henri Torres

 8. Vagabondo

 7. Hugonaut

 6. Velocipes

 5. Navigador

 4. Luis Rotundus

 3. F. Murray Abraham

 2. Uniped (lugged steel unicycle, made for  touring)

 1. Retro Grouchier

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[RBW] Re: Looking for Nitto Moustache bar

2009-05-04 Thread Invisible

Um. Not to interrupt the War of the Moustaches, but I've got a Soma M-
bar that I'd like to sell. It's not Nitto, but I think it's
functionally identical. It can be yours for $40 shipped.

-Wesley

On May 1, 5:27 pm, nathan spindel nath...@gmail.com wrote:
 After a long morning ride today with a Noodle bar, wishing I was more
 upright, I'm now looking to buy a Nitto Moustache bar (26.0mm clamp
 size). Let me know if you've got one for sale!

 -nathan
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[RBW] Re: QB rear wheel

2009-02-24 Thread Invisible

I may be drifting off topic, but:

On my dinglespeed (Redline Monocog 29er, not a Quickbeam), grinding up
steep hills in the lower gear will sometimes cause the rear wheel to
slip forward - and this is with a bolt-on axle. Here's my theory: with
no derailer, there's no worry of spurious gear-hopping so I worry less
about how much torque I put on the cranks, and so I crank harder. For
this reason I can put a lot more force into a derailer-less bike. So
there might be something to the idea that wheel slippage is a greater
threat w/o a derailer.

-Wesley
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[RBW] FS: SON wheel, lights, etc.

2009-02-22 Thread Invisible

Hi, all.

I'm selling my dynamo light setup - featuring the SON28 hub, E6
headlamp, and 4D taillight - on eBay.

Link:
http://tinyurl.com/dynamo-hub

Thanks for your time.
-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: FS: SON wheel, lights, etc.

2009-02-22 Thread Invisible

I'm selling the wheel and lights because I've found that I just don't
use them. It hasn't been on the bike at all this winter, and it
certainly wouldn't get any more use in the summer.

I've found that LED lights are lighter and - crucially - easier. I've
only got the two bikes, but quick release brackets on my headlight and
taillight make them a cinch to swap, which the dynohub and wiring are
just... not.

I also like having the LED headlight to use as a flashlight when
camping.

-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Winter Riding Tips...Best Tires for considerable snow?

2009-01-30 Thread Invisible

I live in Juneau, Alaska, where we get a lot of snow of very different
consistencies from day to day. I also have no interest in swapping
tires and adjusting pressures each morning before starting my commute.
I've found that Schwalbe Big Apple 29er tires in the 60mm size can
work in most anything. I keep the pressure very low - no more than
15psi. Basically, I want them as soft as I can get them.

As with the other setups described, mine has trouble when the snow's
density gradient is cross-wise to the bike's motion. Also in snow
bottom-bracket-deep or deeper. And because the tires have no tread or
studs, going uphill on ice sometimes just doesn't work. This is my
second winter on this setup, and I'm satisfied. Your mileage, though,
may vary - more in this case than in most others.

-Wesley
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[RBW] FS: Rivvish stuff

2009-01-20 Thread Invisible

I have the following for sale, with prices including shipping. See
photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/brooks.wesley/BikeParts?feat=directlink

Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem, 9cm extension - $45
Brooks B.17 Champion, honey, with the copper rivets and whatnot. Well
broken in, but with the tensioning screw untouched. - $65
Sugino XD2 crankset with 116mm Tange bottom bracket. Chainrings are
46/36/24 teeth - $65
Nitto DirtDrop handlebar - $50
Soma 3-speed handlebar - $30
Shimano Deore rear derailer - $30

All in good condition. I'll ship USPS Priority. Payment via PayPal.
Thanks for your time.

-Wesley



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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivvish stuff

2009-01-20 Thread Invisible

Note: cranks are 175mm in length.

-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: 63 cm Redwood on ebay

2008-12-30 Thread Invisible

Sounds like shenanigans to me...
-W

On Dec 30, 4:04 am, JL subfas...@gmail.com wrote:
 $500?!   Someone just got a great deal on a wonderful bike.  If it is
 someone on the list, enjoy!
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[RBW] Re: 63 cm Redwood on ebay

2008-12-29 Thread Invisible

AThe bike's been re-listed:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=170290135930

On Dec 28, 9:29 am, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Wow, $600... someone got a deal!

 On Sun, Dec 28, 2008 at 10:12 AM, Chris Halasz chal...@gmail.com wrote:

  The seller mentions it is the advertised 65cm, but measured it as a
  63cm.

  A great deal indeed.

  Chris
  Tucson, AZ

 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-24 Thread Invisible

With respect to your opinion, I don't think standard threadless stems
are ugly. I also don't think it's relevant.

I prefer threadless stems for the reasons I listed in my first post to
this thread: they make it easier to change stems and handlebars, and
they can be serviced or adjusted with just a 5mm Allen wrench, while
threaded headsets require large wrenches that have no other purpose on
a bike (or anywhere in my life).

Others here clearly prefer threaded stems. That's fine, too.

It looks like I'd need to ask Rivendell if they have uncut stems
available for use with a threadless headset. I still believe that
using a threadless headset on a threaded steer tube is no problem.

-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-23 Thread Invisible

Unless I'm missing something, there's no need to cut the threaded
portion off. One possible hiccup would be if the uppermost race
couldn't be slid into place over the threads, but I think that's
unlikely. The stem will then clamp quite happily over the threads.

In order to keep the geometry as designed, I think it would be best to
use the frame's original fork - but to get one that was not yet cut to
length for a threaded setup. Do they arrive at RBW HQ already cut?

-Wesley


On Dec 23, 6:30 am, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Cutting the threaded part off works just fine, if the steerer is long
 enough. In the case of my fixie, I did find a few threadless forks on
 eBay and such some time back, but I was having trouble even finding a
 new threadless steerer that's long enough for a 25 frame. Typical
 9/8 threadless mountain bike forks come with 265mm steer tubes, but
 275 would work a lot better for me. Maybe when the hipsters all move
 on to unicycles, I'll ride my fixie more, and it will seem worthwhile
 to pay for the modification. The fork on the Merckx is a wild looking
 thing with aero styled blades brazed into a custom crown, so I'd
 like to keep it. Maybe I'll just get a chomoly stem that's the right
 size and angle and clamp diameter. That's probably harder to find than
 a threadless steel road fork.

 Hmmm. I wonder if Grant would sell a Legolas fork separately? Or are
 they oversized as well as threadless?

 Is this question any less sensible than the whole 650b industry? Or
 anything else we obsess about around here? I don't think so. Surely
 it's more productive than yet another discussion of trail.

 On Dec 23, 7:39 am, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu
 wrote:

  Perhaps a bit off the wall, but couldn't you buy a threaded fork with a too 
  long steerer and cut the threaded bit off?  

  -Original Message-
  From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Atlantean
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 12:02 AM
  To: RBW Owners Bunch
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

  From what I have seen, one-inch threadless forks of any description
  are pretty scarce. I have one bike in particular that I'd like to
  switch to threadless, but I haven't run across anything suitable. New
  uncut one inch threadless steel forks tend to be generic and the
  tubing is usually not specified. I looked into having the steer tube
  replaced, and like a lot of things it is fairly easy to have done but
  not cheap. It's not that big a deal on this particular bike, a Merckx
  I've converted to fixed, but I would like a stiffer front end. Out of
  the saddle mashing up a hill makes the M bar pretty floppy, even on an
  80mm Dirt Drop all the way down in the fork. The Dirt Drops are great
  stems; the stiffest aluminum quill stems I've found.

  I think it would be cool to have the option of threadless on a new
  Riv, kind of like the custom color option. Nickel plated fillet brazed
  or lugged stems would look really good on a Riv with a threadless
  setup. But then lots of things would be cool.

  On Dec 22, 9:39 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
   on 12/22/08 7:19 PM, CycloFiend at cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:

on 12/22/08 6:49 PM, JoelMatthews at joelmatth...@mac.com replied to:

lBut I don't want to start an argument over this, I just want to
know whether I can get an Rivendell sells uncut forks for use with a
1 threadless headset - and if so, how long is the steerer.

with:
Grant could probably have Noblilette make you a threadless fork
custom.  It would cost you no doubt - kind of defeating the purpose of
getting a Hillborne.  You would probably be better off asking if there
is a Hillborne frame without a fork (I suppose one might break during
the voyage from Taiwan) and just buy a steel threadless fork from
Ben's Cycles or such outlet.

Actually, it may be simpler to order an appropriate threadless fork at 
the
same time. The steerer tube is just set into the fork crown, and it 
could be
just a matter of getting an unthreaded tube put in.  That way, you have 
the
dimension of fork blades that the bicycle was designed for.

   sorry - wasn't quite clear in this post.

   I meant that if you knew that's what you wanted, it would make sense to 
   try
   to see if you could order it now, while the frames are being built.

   If there's a possibility, it's best pursued now while orders are being put
   together and finalized. I'd give 'em a call over at RBWHQL.

   - J

   --
   Jim Edgar
   cyclofi...@earthlink.net

   Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
   Current Classics - Cross Bikes
   Singlespeed - Working Bikes

   Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

   'You both ride your bike?' He held his hands out and grabbed imaginary
   handlebars, 

[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-22 Thread Invisible

What's the uncut steer-tube length on the Sam Hillborne fork? The
frame is wonderful, but I'm leery of threaded headsets and would want
to go threadless if I owned one.

Follow-ups: are frames even available with uncut forks? What about the
Atlantis and AHH?

-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne geometry is up at RBW site!

2008-12-22 Thread Invisible

I know that threaded headsets are reliable, of course. But headsets
use bearings and as such will occasionally require service. I'd prefer
to have a part that I can disassemble (if necessary) on tour with just
a 5mm Allen wrench, instead of a couple of tools (32/35mm cone
wrenches) that have no other use on a bicycle. If nothing else, I can
save $30 by not having to buy the wrenches.

A lesser quibble is that a clamping stem (as in threadless-type stems)
seems like a better design than the expanding wedge bolt on a threaded-
type stem. And finally, I like stems where a cap pops off to release
the handlebars over Nitto's design that requires sliding half the
handlebar through the stem clamp. Changing handlebars is a lot faster/
easier without unwinding all that bar tape and taking off a brake
lever. But I don't want to start an argument over this, I just want to
know whether I can get an Rivendell sells uncut forks for use with a
1 threadless headset - and if so, how long is the steerer.

And I'd always thought that threaded steer tubes have to be cut to
length just like threadless ones do - in fact, I thought it was more
important to cut a threaded steerer to length. Otherwise how can a
fork fit different-sized bikes with different-sized headtubes?

-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Shimagnolo

2008-12-11 Thread Invisible

How about using a 9-speed chain on a 10-speed chainring? Will that
cause any trouble?
-Wesley
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[RBW] Re: Shimagnolo

2008-12-11 Thread Invisible

Thanks, Eric. I'll sleep easier now while I wait for my new crankset
to arrive.
-Wesley
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