[RBW] Re: Thumbies vs BEs

2011-06-24 Thread MichaelH
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Between this list and the
tandem list I have gotten a number of good suggestions.

First, I have used chain stoppers in the past but somehow had
forgotten about them, but adding one to the tandem could solve at
least one problem.  I am also grateful for the observation that
thumbies can cause some thumb fatigue on extended rides.  Since we are
about to set off on a 240 mile sojourn in Quebec, this probably isn't
the time to do that. Besides, one of the best things about BE is the
ergonomics, which far exceeds brifters and even DTs. Besides it
reminded me of why I have never considered them in the past.  On a
single I do 60 % of my riding on or just behind the hoods and 30% on
the drops, I only occasionally use the center of the bars, so thumbies
wouldn't really be all that convenient for me.  On the tandem I'm on
the hoods 80% of the time.

I am also considering a moved to ramped and pinned rings. I have not
found them to be all that beneficial on a single, but some people on
the tandem list recommend them. Tandems put an enormous amount of
pressure on the drive train and I have managed to train my stoker to
know that when I say I'm going to drop the ring, she needs to let up
on the pedals, but it's easy to get in a situation and discover that
the gear you thought would take you to the top, wont, and we're
pushing hard to keep going. When we bought the tandem I outfitted it
with a good used DaVinci tandem crank ( a great crank, btw, I have one
on my single touring bike too) and then put some used Shimano 600
rings, a 50/36/26, setup.  I think I could probably do less shifting
with a 53/39/28, but want to think about that.

Steve and Joe have pointed out, quite correctly that BE's do shift
very rapidly when you have both hands on the drops.  But, I have two
caveats.  Our riding tends to be, as I wrote, on rural back roads,
about half of which are dirt.  We're not out for speed, but rather
enjoying the country side, and so that tends to keep me up on the
hoods.  Of course I could train myself to ride the drops more when I'm
in the hills, but that is most of Vt!  Second a tandem is not like a
single.  Ours is quite long, with two long TTs and long chain stays to
accommodate panniers. The two riders, the bike, water, and a couple of
small bags, tools, and a pair of jackets brings the total weight up to
about 385 lbs. When you're barreling along a dirt road or a broken
section of chip and seal, the added sense of control from being on the
hoods is quite welcome.  Tandems really like to mostly go in a
straight line, until the stoker starts squirming around!

Finally, for the suggestion that I go over to the dark side.  If all
else fails I will consider brifters, probably campy and either add the
jtec shiftmate, or convert the White hub.

keep the rubber side down,
michael,
westford, vt

On Jun 24, 12:00 am, Joe Bernard joerem...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yep, that's my question, too. The easiest double-shift I've ever done
 is riding the hoods, then quickly dropping both hands to the bar-ends,
 snapping off that shift, then back to the hoods.

 On Jun 23, 2:29 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:



  On Thu, 2011-06-23 at 06:20 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
   The long cables, long rear derailleur cage,
   and the need to move each separately from the shifter back to the bar
   before I can reach for the other shifter causes too much delay and I
   end up with too much pressure to drop the chain, or I shift early and
   we end up spinning wildly, or even dropping the chain all together.

  I can shift left and right bar end shifters simultaneously, using both
  hands, holding on to the bar ends themselves.  Are you saying you can
  only shift one hand at a time?

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[RBW] Thumbies vs BEs

2011-06-23 Thread MichaelH
I am considering a switch to thumbies on our tandem.  I am finding the
BEs too slow on the tandem for the kind of rolling hills of Vt, which
require a lot of fast, double shifts to attack hills that often swing
from minus to plus 10%.  The long cables, long rear derailleur cage,
and the need to move each separately from the shifter back to the bar
before I can reach for the other shifter causes too much delay and I
end up with too much pressure to drop the chain, or I shift early and
we end up spinning wildly, or even dropping the chain all together.

Does anyone have any experience going from one to the other on a road
bike, that they can share.  I suppose the other option is to ride more
on the drops, where I can reach the shifters faster.

Michael
Westford, Vt

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[RBW] Re: Saddle Comparison - Brooks B17, Swift and Berthoud Touring

2011-06-23 Thread MichaelH
Thanks for the posting, I found it interesting.  I use both the early
Selle Anatomica, which is a bit narrower than the current offering,
and a B17 and like them both very much.  My wife, on the other hand,
has never found a saddle she likes.  They all seem to chafe on the
inside parts.  From your pictures the Berthoud nose seems to get
narrower faster and I wonder if that would work better for her.

michael

On Jun 23, 9:30 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 I was lucky enough to have a semi-surplus Brooks B17 on hand to trade
 with Brad (jinxed) for his Swift - thank you.  While I was playing
 musical chairs with the saddles in the stable I decided to take some
 pictures and measurements comparing my three saddles of choice. The
 Brooks B17, now a Swift and Berthoud Touring all have seen some time
 on my bicycle rotation.  Detailed post with pictures here:

 http://wp.me/p19mfs-ql
 orhttp://oceanaircycles.com/2011/06/23/saddle-comparison-brooks-b17-swi...

 Bottom line, all three are great saddles.  The B17 is my go to saddle
 for bars at saddle height all the way to albatross and sitting bolt
 upright.  The berthoud is my Goldilocks saddle, it is just wide enough
 to support, but all excess material is out of the way.  Likewise it
 has proven light, durable and waterproof over the last two years and
 thousands of miles.  The Swift being new and firm needs to be broken
 in.  It will reside on my roadeo for a bit as it sees the most miles.
 Initial impressions after a couple 20 something mile rides is really
 good, similar to the berthoud it suports you where you need it, but
 there is nothing left to get in the way when you are bent forward a
 bit.

 Rob
 -http://oceanaircycles.com/

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[RBW] Re: Vermont Rides/Camping

2011-06-22 Thread MichaelH
Anyone coming to Vt to ride should definitely go to the Local Motion
web site and order the Lake Champlain Bikeways map.  It covers pretty
much everything west of the green mountains from the center of the
state to the Canadian border, plus a lot of good rides in NY, which
has much better shoulders and pavement than VT.  I live in Westford,
about 15 miles north east of Burlington and use the map to navigate
around a lot of small dirt roads up here in the northern towns.  These
are good roads with great views but many of them are not on the state
map.  Many of Vt's roads and shoulders are in poor condition, which
makes the trade off to dirt roads more appealing.

Grand Isle and the lake shore roads between Vergennes and Middlebury
are the only really flat part of the state, but they can be windy.  As
someone pointed out, if you want to ride on Grand Isle the best
choices are East Shore Rd, which is dirt, and West Shore Rd.  For some
reason most cyclist will instead fight the winds and traffic on Rt 2.

If you visit our capital, Montpelier, ( a great little town) there are
lots of good roads nearby.  I visit my daughter there weekly and often
ride north on Rt 12, which has pretty good pavement, once you're out
of town, a nice shoulder, low traffic midday, and nice views.  Plus
it's slowly up hill as you go north, so the trip home is pretty easy.

On Jun 20, 8:39 am, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey All -

 I live in Burlington, VT, and would like to start doing some overnight
 camping trips in VT.  I am researching good spots to do the
 overnights, and figured I would ask on here as well.  Have any of you
 done any in VT?

 A lot of what I am finding for state park camping is more like car-
 camping, (with a bunch of campsites clustered together/showers/
 firewood/firepit, etc. - which is okay, but not really what I am
 looking for.) I would like to camp somewhere that I am by myself,
 maybe have a nice view, and have a chance to get away.  I thought it
 would be worth asking on here, as some may have experience.

 Any help?  Appreciate it in advance!

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[RBW] Re: HS

2011-06-21 Thread MichaelH
At 66 with four bikes plus the tandem I don't have many bike purchases
left in me, but hub shift suggests IGH to me, which brings up my ideal
winter bike:

Rolhoff rear hub; gates carbon belt; Schmidt front hub; Ti frame; room
for 42 mm studded tires and full fenders.  I don't see this bike
coming from a desert in California!

Dang i wish this site didn't take so long to load... what gives?  I
can load the cached version or the /discussion version... but the
basic .groups/rbw-owners-bunch takes almost 2 minutes on a decent
cable connection with Safari  lots of spare memory.

Gotta go out for a ride on my new White pedals..

michael

On Jun 19, 5:47 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 HS must stand for hub shift. The big clue for me is the statement that you 
 can't use more than one chainring on it. At first I thought, what, you can't 
 clamp on a front derailleur? But once hub shift was suggested, I realized 
 that a hub shift with no rear derailleur hanger would make it hard to have 
 something that would take up the slack required when switching between 
 multiple chainrings. So hub shift with no rear hanger fits the clues given.

 I like having a 135-rear-spacing bike that has a derailleur hanger, because I 
 have the option of doing one of the new internally geared hubs and could 
 still use it with multiple gears up front.

 -Jim W.

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[RBW] Re: Google Group Web Pokiness

2011-06-20 Thread MichaelH
RBW hasn't loaded for almost a week, but emptying my cache seems to
have helped, although I can't think of a reason Y.  Thanks for the
suggestion, Jim.

michael

On Jun 20, 6:47 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for checkin' on it;   I'd noticed the delay in loading, that it
 actually times out on my iPhone's browser, but my PC, it'll hang in
 there until it eventually get it brought up.

 (I read it via digest-mode, but come to the board itself to reply).

 On Jun 20, 1:52 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:



  Hey all -

  A couple people emailed me over the weekend, and I just wanted to pass along
  that there have been some access issues reported.

  Just a heads up that for some reason, the web version of the RBW Owners
  Group has been loading up very, very slowly (or not at all) for no apparent
  reason for the past couple of days.

  I'm checking into it, but don't have a clear explanation as of yet. (Ghost
  in the Machine is idea #1 right now...)  Google may have monkeyed with some
  things behind the scenes and it's just rippling through the interwebs.

  If you just access the group via email (web or pop3) you probably didn't
  notice a difference.  It only has been happening if you go to the Groups
  page and then find it takes a while to load.

  Remember, pokey internet response is a good excuse to ride.

  - Jim / list admin

  --
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net

  Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
  Current Classics - Cross Bikes
  Singlespeed - Working Bikes

  Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do
  it.
      Mahatma Gandhi

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[RBW] Re: Appropriate Answers to Questions on any Bike Forum

2011-06-16 Thread MichaelH
I especially liked the last two statements:

Stopping can be as much fun as riding.

Lots of people worked their asses off to build whatever you’re riding
on. You should thank them.

And I would add, I am mostly likely to respond positively to posts
which are statements of personal experience and avoid categorical
attacks on someone else's experience.

michael
westford, vt

On Jun 16, 4:47 pm, jamison brosseau jamison.bross...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Yes
 On Jun 16, 3:44 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:



  I enjoyed that Jim.
  Thanks

  in sunny hot breezy not-yet-smoky Albuquack after a ride to Sandia
  Crest on the Legolas

  On Jun 16, 1:23 pm, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:

   A link to this site was recently posted on another Google groups forum
   (Internet-BOB).

  http://surlybikes.com/blog/some_answers_to_just_about_any_bike_forum_...

   I think it obviously works well here for the RBW group as well!

   Jim Cloud
   Tucson, AZ

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[RBW] El Duke Degreaser

2011-06-11 Thread MichaelH
A while back I bought a bottle of El Duke Degreaser from Rivendell.
Eco friendly, works great, virtually odorless.  Only the bottle is
almost empty and I can't find it on the web site any more.  Anybody
know why, and perhaps more importantly, where I can get it?

michael

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[RBW] Re: Freewheels and Rivendell - Where We Started

2011-06-09 Thread MichaelH
I stuck with freewheels for a long time.  Probably, mostly because I
already had a bunch of perfectly good hubs, not to mention frames with
126 mm rear spacing.  I especially found 7 speed freewheels (13-28)
with a 50/40/28 very nice on my touring bikes.

 I struggled through the dry period of increasingly hard to find
freewheels.  Eventually, I bought a set of wheels with a 9 speed,
12-27 cassette.  I found that I really liked the ability to use 12 and
then 11 toothed cassettes because I could reduce the size of the
rings.  Eventually I migrated to a 44/30 crank with an 11-28 cassette
or 12-27 with 48/34/26 triples.  The former gave me the same low as a
racing triple by only giving up one gear at the top, and the latter
gives me a good shifting pattern, a pretty low mid gear and a great
escape, which I can't get with a freewheel.

Cassettes are indeed easier to remove that freewheels, but I don't
think its a big deal, although I admit to having stripped the threads
on on one free hub.  I do have two complaints about cassettes.  First,
the low end ones don't shift reliably in 9 speed mode.  They don't
hold the chain and jump around.  I have not found this to be a problem
with the better Ultegra and HG cassettes.  Second, they are harder to
clean.  I use to simply run a thin strip of cloth between cogs to
clean up freewheels, but that doesn't work with cassettes.  And to
boot, Shimano has drilled a gazillion  little holes in the cogs which
collect muck and are very difficult to clean.

michael,
take care of Self; it's one of a kind and irreplaceable

On Jun 8, 12:44 pm, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
 With the subject of freewheels on a recent post, I thought it would be
 of some interest to quote a piece of Rivendell history from the first
 Rivendell catalog (Summer 1996).

 Freewheels

 We don't sell cassettes.  There's nothing wrong with cassettes, but
 there's something fishy about the way they're promoted.  Cassettes
 support axles better, so you don't break axles; but Bullseye, Phil and
 others have proven that you can totally eliminate axle-flex and
 breakages with a better designed freewheel hub.  More likely, the real
 reason cassettes have overtaken freewheels is to increase production
 efficiency for the large hub makers.  We and many others find
 freewheels quicker and easier to change than cassettes; and freewheels
 certainly have versatility on their side.  Freewheel availability has
 got to be a concern for anybody with freewheel hubs.  Cassettes change
 often enough to make year-to-year compatibility an issue, so it's not
 as though once you've got your cassette body, you'll always be able to
 get the cogs.  But there's little incentive for anybody who ever made
 freewheels to continue making them.  Shimano still makes one cheap
 model, SunTour is history.  Regina-the company still exists, but we
 hear they're making conveyor belts or something.  Sachs, the great
 German hope, still offers a full line of freewheels, but the word is
 they'd like to cut back their selection.  Factories see freewheels as
 money-eaters.

 I don't wish to insinuate that something Grant Peterson wrote in 1996
 is representative of his present opinion.  It's still interesting,
 however, to see how some (including me) would have chosen a freewheel
 equipped bike at that time in preference of a cassette.  I'm
 personally quite satisfied with the choice I made for my 1996
 Rivendell Standard and feel that its given me good service and will
 continue to do so in the future.

 Jim Cloud
 Tucson, AZ

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[RBW] Re: can anyone relate--getting older (50) and back into cycling: finding drops not so easy...

2011-06-06 Thread MichaelH
I took about a ten year break from cycling in my forties when life
demanded I focus exclusively on other things.  When I started back, I
set two rules for myself which proved very useful.  First I went on a
(Atkins) diet and lost 40 lbs.  Second, as I recommitted myself I
decided to avoid riding so much on any day that I wouldn't want to
ride again tomorrow.  Both of those proved to be very useful
decisions. About the same time I discovered Rivendell and I raised my
bars.  Setting them about 2 cm below my saddle provided great relieve
to my back and especially my neck muscles.

Drop bars provide the most variety for hand positions, which relieve
stress on the wrist  shoulders.  I found putting them higher  than
the saddle prevented me from standing up, and Vt has lots of short
steep rollers to get over, which are often easiest if you stand up and
give some push.

I'm in my mid-late 60's now and continue to ride with drop bars about
2 cm below the seat.  I do some yoga after every ride now.  I've lost
a lot of power and speed, and this year feel a drop in endurance, but
as long as I don't look at a bike computer too much, my happiness per
mile hasn't trailed off.

Drop bars also offer the  least stress on the buns and maybe the feet
too, which have been a problem for me.

michael
just back from a happy, hilly 20 mile ride.

On Jun 6, 11:55 am, canali jwcoll...@hotmail.com wrote:
 just wondering if it's just me and i need to take my time adding the
 mileage and being consistent  and patient (and getting back into
 shape)

 OR do alot of us as we get older no longer find being so bent down as
 comfortable...thinking of swapping out drops on atlantis for jeff
 jones h loop bars or the north road bars.

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

2011-06-05 Thread MichaelH
Charlie's message resonates with me... our bodies tell us when
something isn't good for us  I don't doubt that some riders get into
foot pain with ill fitting, or over tightened shoes, but I don't think
that's my problem.  I have a number of riding shoes but mostly use
Keen Commuters and it's hard for me to imagine they are causing my
foot problems.  I do believe our riding styles must evolve over time.

About a decade ago I connected with Rivendell and discovered how much
happier I was with higher bars.  Now, at 66, I'm learning not to
equate how fast I'm going with how much joy I'm getting. My feet are
telling me not to abuse them.  Still somethings are out of my
control.  Climbs in the east are shorter and steeper than in the
west.  My stoker (who almost never wants to ride her single anymore)
likes to push bigger gears at a lower cadence than me and knows that
the first rule of tandeming is that the stoker is always right. So we
power up the short steep climbs and even cruise in a bigger gear than
i would choose.  We went out for a 20 mile ride together today and
before we got home I could feel the twinges in my right foot.

We are planning a mid July tour of 240 miles out and back on the P'tit
Train du Nord, and I have decided on a pedal.  Tomorrow I plan to
order the White / Bruce Gordon combo.  If it doesn't work out for me.
one of you will get a good deal in late July.

Tomorrow, God willing and the creek don't rise, I'm taking the
Rambouillet for a long ride in the big hills.

michael

On Jun 4, 1:17 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Its kind of odd how our bodies tell us when something isn't good for
 us.lower gearing, more spinning, less mashing, shorter rides, more
 stops, more walking as an alternative to grinding up hills, more
 surface area for the feet to push against etc. I'm leaning toward
 Grant's dual athelete  concept..I know my walking muscles are
 underused and whats wrong with simply getting off the bike and
 resting? Fifty miles of riding has always been the turning point for
 me where I am fighting the more natural reaction to stop while also
 questioning why I am looking for ways to extend suffering. YMMV

 On Jun 4, 9:11 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:



  I agree that hotspots are cause by more than just the small platform.
  However that being said the but follows.  When I started using
  look/shimano spd-r etc all wider platforms with the same shoes the hot spots
  took much longer to hit.  With regular spd's 50 miles was the max.. with
  spd-r's  I didn't have any problems except the hilliest of centuries.  

  The hot spots also made me concentrate on better form / smoother pedaling.
  I also tried many different shoes ending with the mega carbon sidi's.   From
  my experience the wider platforms make a huge difference.

  Now I ride nothing but platform pedals and tennis shoes .. cleats and
  special shoes are too much work.

  Kelly

  -Original Message-
  From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
  Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 1:38 PM
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

  On Thu, 2011-06-02 at 06:29 -0700, Peter Pesce wrote:
   Michael-

   Re-reading your original post it seems you are not necessarily looking
   to change away from a clipless pedal, only looking to cure your
   hot-spot problems?
   In that case I might recommend the Shimano A520 pedal if you still
   want clipless but need a wider support platform to get rid of
   hot-spots.

  In my experience, hot spots aren't caused by a small pedal platform, but
  rather by the shoes: too flexible soles, and on too tight once the foot
  swells in the heat.  The way to cure a hot spot while riding is to take off
  your shoe for 30 sec to 2 min.

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[RBW] Re: Different Pedal Question - M324's

2011-06-03 Thread MichaelH
I too once fixed a clicking noise like that by retightening all of the
chainring bolts.  It's easy to see how a single loose bolt could cause
that kind of click.

michael

On Jun 2, 4:58 pm, Larry Powers lapower...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I keep not getting to that.  I will do it tonight.



  Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 10:40:17 -0700
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Different Pedal Question - M324's
  From: mgiangs...@gmail.com
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  Maybe it's a dumb quesiton, but have you tried different pedals? Just
  to verify the clicking is coming from the pedals?

  On Jun 2, 1:11 pm, Larry Powers lapower...@hotmail.com wrote:
   My QB is my do everything bike so I like these pedals because it does not 
   matter what shoes I am wearing, I can ride.  One problem, I have a 
   clicking sound when I am climbing hard.  I have tightened the crank arms 
   and replaced the bottom bracket and neither fixed the problem.  I have 
   also greased and tightened the pedals in the cranks also with no results.

   I am currently 220lbs.  I don't hear the click when riding on the flats, 
   I don't hear it if I am out of the saddle and climbing at a fast cadence. 
    I do hear it when I am climbing a steep hill at a slow cadence.  I can 
   also get the click to happen if I am spinning on the flats and then just 
   stand and put all y weight on the pedals.  I can't do this consistently 
   enough to get it to happen when I am at the bike shop.

   Questions:  Has anyone else experienced this with these pedals?  Does 
   anyone know if these pedals can be adjusted?  

   Thanks

   Larry Powers

   Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

2011-06-02 Thread MichaelH
Wow, I'm blown away by all the input.  thanks to everyone.   I thought
about the possibility that it might be the shoe instead of the pedal.
I could see how that could happen but I have three shoes (keen,
shimono, sidis) and two pedal styles (frog and xo1 roads) but the
problem has become constant. I had foot surgery two winters ago to
remove a golf ball size cyst under a corn on the ball of my right
foot, which is where I'm now feeling pain again.  I especially
appreciate all the people who mentioned the pedals feeling too small.
Lots of people like the very affordable MKS touring pedals but was
cautioned by Beth's remark since i suspect I may get the same hot
spot.  When time permits I'll do a little web search on the Shimano
520, but right now it feels like a choice between the MKS  a pair of
clips for $60 and the White Ind. (I love my WI hubs and crank) and
Bruce Gordons half clips for $260.

This sounds easy, but it reminds me of the story (from Antony d'Mello)
about the man held up at gun point with the choice, Your money or
your life.  He thought a moment and responded,  You better take my
life, I need the money for my old age!

How much would you pay for even a couple of months of extra cycling in
your life?

michael
take care of self; it's one of a kind and irreplacable

On Jun 2, 10:51 am, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I tried the MKS Touring pedal and found that the two thin sides caused
 little hot-spots of their own, even with thicker-soled BMX sneakers.
 After riding my upright city bike for ages with GR-9's and toeclips, I
 swapped in some MKS RMX pedals this week (my dainty size 9 ladies
 feet don't require Grip Kings), and I like them a lot. The only hard
 part is that I find them a little slippery on very rainy days. I may
 ultimately swap in some BMX platform pedals -- they're not as pretty
 but they do offer more traction.

 Beth

 On Jun 2, 3:46 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:



  I have MKS touring pedals on all my bikes except one...

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[RBW] Considering new pedals

2011-06-01 Thread MichaelH
About a decade ago I discovered Speedplay Frog Pedals and fell in love
with them.  I have recommended them to many people and everybody who
wanted an easy on and easy on the knees pedal loved them.  Gradually
all my bikes got them.  But now I am developing a cronic hot spot on
the ball of my foot and suspect that always using the same pedal might
be a contributor, so have decided to go for some variety.  I have an
old pair of useable Campy rat traps but like the idea of the wider MKS
body on their touring pedal  But I see they also make a platform
pedal, the GR 9.  I will probably ride these with sneakers or Keen
Sandals, and large toe clips.  I have a large, size 13, foot.

Has anyone used both of these?  What was your experience?

Michael

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[RBW] Re: Considering new pedals

2011-06-01 Thread MichaelH
Thanks for sharing your experience Charlie.  I tested out the Grip
Kings over the weekend and plan to give them another try, but found
the lack of contact disconcerting.  At 66 I'm no longer too concerned
about how fast I'm going, but there is a sense of blending man and
machine that I get from toe clips that i don't get from totally
clipless pedals.  Plus, perhaps, after 25 years of being clipped in my
pedaling style seems pretty dependent on some form of clips.  I'm open
to learning to cycle in sneakers and love riding in my keen commuters.

michael

On Jun 1, 6:56 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 You've probably heard/read this before but you might want to just try
 riding un-attached. I gave up attached pedaling about seven years ago
 and once my leg muscles were retrained I found it liberating and I
 kept track of my times on familiar routes with no average time
 differences.  In fact, some of my fastest were with my Teva sandals
 and BMX style platform pedals. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for
 fixed gear pedaling but for everything else I do. At first I had a few
 foot slips because my legs had become lazy being attached but I soon
 adapted and haven't been sorry since, not even once..plus I get to
 wear any shoes even my work boots when I'm riding places where I
 happen to want work boots on. I used to get those hot spots too which
 is why I quit using clip ins and even my old school slotted cleats and
 toe clips.too many foot problems.

 On Jun 1, 12:48 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:



  About a decade ago I discovered Speedplay Frog Pedals and fell in love
  with them.  I have recommended them to many people and everybody who
  wanted an easy on and easy on the knees pedal loved them.  Gradually
  all my bikes got them.  But now I am developing a cronic hot spot on
  the ball of my foot and suspect that always using the same pedal might
  be a contributor, so have decided to go for some variety.  I have an
  old pair of useable Campy rat traps but like the idea of the wider MKS
  body on their touring pedal  But I see they also make a platform
  pedal, the GR 9.  I will probably ride these with sneakers or Keen
  Sandals, and large toe clips.  I have a large, size 13, foot.

  Has anyone used both of these?  What was your experience?

  Michael

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[RBW] Low Rider Rack recommendations

2011-05-28 Thread MichaelH
I am looking for a silver, front, low rider rack that will at least
somewhat match the Mark's mini on the front of my 26 wheeled tandem.
So far I have found a $55 no name and the Nitto Campee for $229, which
would replace the mini.  I know that Tubus makes the Tara in silver,
but it is not imported into this country and the Nova in stainless for
$176.  Any other options?  Or does anyone have a used one they would
like to part with?

michael,
take care of Self; it's one of a kind and irreplaceable

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[RBW] Re: Overtaking Motor Vehicles on a Bicycle

2011-05-28 Thread MichaelH
Depends on whether there is a bike lane / or significant shoulder
(which are technically  legally different here); and whether or not
the cars are moving.  In a bike lane it is legal and reasonably safe
to pass on the right.  Without a lane I will pass a long line of
stopped cars on the right, but generally wait if it's just a few
cars.  If there is no bike lane it is only legal  safe to pass on the
left.  I know that frightens most inexperienced riders, but it is the
best and only legal practice.  Presumably, all directions  need to be
reversed for UK and other places that drive, as my wife describes it,
on the wrong side of the road.

Do you ask because you are planning to come here to cycle?  If so, it
would be great to read your post trip report.   My wife and I keep
talking about doing a cycling trip through the Cotswald Region.  We
should have done it this Spring, It couldn't possibly be rainier than
it has been here.

Michael,
Westford, Vt

On May 28, 3:07 am, Bob linthi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Greetings from North Yorkshire.

 Was wondering yesterday:  What is the *legal* method for overtaking
 motor vehicles on a bicycle in the US? I've done it many times; I was
 just wondering if it was legal in America. Here in the UK,
 filtering (riding between lanes of traffic) is a way of life for
 motorcyclists and cyclists. I am aware that it is legal in California,
 but no other American state. We overtake cars on a bicycle or
 motorbike by passing on the right, in the same lane, if possible, but
 you can also ride for a bit in the oncoming traffic lane, if you dare.

 Cheers,
 Bob

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[RBW] Re: Rust on Chain Stay

2011-05-25 Thread MichaelH
You didn't say what kind of shifters you are using, but from other
info I presume it is a friction system.  That's good because they are
much easier to adjust, and fixing the derailler should be done before
bothering to try and repair the chainstay.  Set the chain on the
biggest cog and the smallet ring and adjust the limit screw so the
chain just barely clears the inside of the derailler, no more than
0.5mm.  Your pedal stroke will tend to pull the chain away from
contact there.  Then, the first couple of time you ride, carry a small
screwdriver and if you find the chain doesn't want to drop down, open
the screw up 1/8 of a turn.  Unless the limit screw is moving that
should fix the problem.

Pulling a crank looks more intimidating than it is.  But given that
you don't have any tools you might consider going to a bike shop and
having them install self extracting bolts.  These can be removed with
a 6 mm allen key.  If you don't want to do that you will need an
extractor, and either an 8 mm allen key or bolt wrench, depending on
the crank design.  If you have an octalink crank you will also need a
small plug that goes between the extractor and the crank.  Remove the
chain, take out the bolt with the 8 mm key, thread the extractor into
the crank, then turn the extractor into the crank with a 15 mm(??)
wrench.

When you reinstall, grease the crank, and then tighten down the bolts
really good; at the least you'll want an allen key that gives you some
leverage.

Be not afraid.

michael

On May 24, 9:48 pm, Joe S ddlttr...@verizon.net wrote:
 I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it.  I ride it nearly
 every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work.

 When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front
 derailleur was not set correctly.  It took throwing the chain off onto
 the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what
 was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath
 of about 1/2 inch.  I haven't done anything to it other than to keep
 checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in
 rain, I can see rust on the surface.  There isn't a lot of room
 between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm
 thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the
 crank.  I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank
 puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't
 want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new
 and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a
 deadline looming.  What is the best way to contain the rust?  Can it
 be done without removing the crank (at least for now)?

 BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very
 sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my
 LBS.  I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride
 after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank.  This
 time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust.  It seems to be
 set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy
 triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear?  I recall
 reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be
 loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay
 once set correctly?  Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution?

 Thanks for your advice.

 Joe

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[RBW] Re: bike shop recommendation in Chattanooga?

2011-05-25 Thread MichaelH
I don't know much about Chattanooga, but was there for a couple of
days in late winter.  It seemed like a great town and very bike
friendly. I'd do a web search and look for some place near that
focuses on service, and also for a local bike club.

michael

On May 25, 3:48 pm, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:
 howdy girls and guys,

 I will be in Chattanooga, TN next week building up a Betty Foy for my
 GF, and I'm looking for a friendly LBS in town for the those small
 parts and/or tools I will invariably forget to pack and a shop for any
 future maintenance/repairs that she's not interested in doing
 herself.  Something in the North Chatt/North Shore area possibly?

 And on the off chance anyone lives in the area and has a bike work
 stand that you wouldn't mind loaning out for a day I would gladly
 exchange some tasty locals ales for its use.

 thanks!
 -Jay B

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[RBW] Re: Bar end shifter pod question

2011-05-22 Thread MichaelH
I can't think of any reason the shifter should be affected.  The pod
consists of an insert to which a post get attached.  The shifter
mounts on the post, just as it is on a down tube.  I'll bet someone at
Riv has tried this combo, so you can call and ask when you order them.
michael

On May 21, 11:11 pm, E.Mann eric.l.m...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here is the story:  About a month ago I gave my mom a mid-80's Miyata
 615 all country'd out with big tires, dirt drop stem, moustache bars,
 and fenders as a Mother's day present.  She absolutely loves it and
 has been riding it a lot, but wants the shifters (downtube) up higher
 somewhere on the bars.  Insert the bar end shifter pods from Riv.

 The downtube shifters are Shimano 6-speed indexed/friction.  The
 indexed shifting is excellent and I was hoping to retain the indexing
 after mounting to the Riv bar-end pods.  Is the indexing function
 retained when using these shifter pods?  Or will they be friction only
 upon mounting as bar-end?  I ask because one of the awesome local bike
 shops has a pair of Suntour micro-ratchet bar-ends in the used parts
 file cabinet.  These probably would work better - and for the same
 price - if the conversion using the Riv shifter pods makes them
 friction only.

 Thanks in advance for any insight.

 Eric
 MPLS, MN

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[RBW] Re: Torque Spec's

2011-05-22 Thread MichaelH
I have found that as I have aged I am more likely to under tighten
allen bolts when using hand held keys.  I've gone to a torque wrench
just to give myself the extra leverage, although I suppose 3/8 ratchet
driver would also provide that.

michael

On May 22, 12:14 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 According to Sheldon Brown,  ... Torque wrenches are never needed for 
 bicycle work.

 Here's the full entry fromhttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ta-o.html
 Torque Wrench

 A torque wrench is a type of wrench with a built-in spring-loaded indicator 
 that gives a numerical readout of the amount of torque being applied through 
 it.
 This is primarily an automotive tool, especially useful for applications 
 involving crushable gaskets which must be tightened evenly.

 Torque wrenches are never needed for bicycle work, although they can be a 
 useful training aid for inexperienced mechanics who haven't learned the feel 
 of a properly-tightened fastener.

 [I find this generally to be true, but many bicycle components now are 
 accompanied with spec sheets with lists of torque settings. There are two 
 reasons for this:

 Consultants to attorneys measure torque values, leading to an excess of 
 caution by the manufacturers
 Some components made of unusual materials (carbon fiber seatposts, aluminum 
 bolts) require lower torque settings than for other parts of the same general 
 type.
 This paragraph added by John Allen]

 --Eric
 campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

 On May 22, 2011, at 9:07 AM, Ray wrote:



  Can anyone furnish me with a link, or otherwise inform me what the
  torque spec is on a Nitto stem. On that subject, I would like info on
  steel bike torque spec's in general.

  Thank you, all.

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[RBW] Re: Anything look odd on this Ram?

2011-05-20 Thread MichaelH
The frame looks to be in good condition, but the sloppy work on the
bars would lead me to take a hard look at the rest of the components
and maintenance.  But ultimately it's more about a fair price, than it
is about whether its a good bike.  If it fits your body  goals, go
for it.

michael

On May 20, 1:51 pm, Daniel aframaf...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've been looking at look at this Ram on 
 Craigslist:http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/bik/2388442830.html

 The cable routing, handlebars and tape are all bugging me, but I'm on
 the fence about going to see it anyway.

 What do y'all think?

 Daniel

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[RBW] Re: Knickers, morphed to Rain Gear

2011-05-19 Thread MichaelH
It is raining again... or maybe still,,. here in N. VT this morning.
I have a very nice Showers Pass rain jacket, but it's only wearable
below 65.  I'm considering a rain cape.  Can anyone suggest a good,
breathable rain jacket that works in warmer weather?

Michael

On May 19, 1:40 am, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
 Also found on the CTC list, this might interest those of you living in
 rainy climes (I wouldn't have a great deal of use for one living in
 arid 
 Tucson):http://www.hilltrek.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Cycling_Double_Ventile_Jac...

 This is a modern version of the much beloved Greenspot jacket often
 worn by the CTC set.  Obviously not cheap, but as the saying goes...
 (You get what you pay for..).

 Jim Cloud
 Tucson, AZ

 On May 18, 5:53 am, Scott G. sco...@primax.com wrote:



  Found this on the CTC list, proper cycling attire for gentlefolk.
  Just the source for CTC re-enactors, tweed runners and the Lake Pepin
  faithful.

 https://www.spencers-trousers.com/index.php
  Look under breeks and in special instructions
  specify they are for cycling.

  Made in Yorkshire.

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[RBW] Re: Herse in just-about final form

2011-05-19 Thread MichaelH
Understated Elegance!  Happy Trails.
michael,
take care of Self; it's one of a kind and irreplaceable

On May 18, 9:08 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/HerseComplete051811?authkey=Gv...

 Rivendell-esque if not Rivendellian.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.
 (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Cycling Breeks aka knickers

2011-05-18 Thread MichaelH
I can certainly see the practicality of knickers,but.., I'm just
not man enough!
michael

On May 18, 8:53 am, Scott G. sco...@primax.com wrote:
 Found this on the CTC list, proper cycling attire for gentlefolk.
 Just the source for CTC re-enactors, tweed runners and the Lake Pepin
 faithful.

 https://www.spencers-trousers.com/index.php
 Look under breeks and in special instructions
 specify they are for cycling.

 Made in Yorkshire.

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[RBW] Re: silver shifter washers

2011-05-17 Thread MichaelH
I would have sworn that my shifters came with both styles.  In any
case I would expect any good bike shop, or Riv, has a pair of these in
its spare parts drawer, that not that rare since they were on
virtually every road bike, with bar ends, sold for many decades.
There's more than one size floating around out there and shops that
service older bikes are sure to end up with them.

michael


On May 17, 10:20 am, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 I should've read the posts regarding this before I purchased SIlver
 downtube shifters to use with my Shimano bar end shifter pods.
 As many of you know the shifters come with a round washer with a
 square hole that has a little tab on it that acts as a shifter stop
 when mounted on a downtube boss.
 But..it seems nobody sells the round washers with the square hole
 WITHOUT the tab.
 I could grind it down, but does anyone know how to get the correct
 washers without purchasing the bar end shifters?
 thanks
 Jason

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[RBW] Re: A Little More Vanilla

2011-05-15 Thread MichaelH
Very nice.  I'll bet you waited a long time for it, which adds to the
sweetness for sure.  I was intrigued by the shifter cable routing and
look forward to reading how that works out, in terms of both shifting
performance and comfort.  It certainly looks a lot neater tha my usual
routing just under the front rack.

I hope Seattle isn't getting as much rain as VT this Spring or you
will be wishing for fenders. (assuming anyway that you are somewhere
Seattle)

Michael

On May 14, 8:32 pm, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote:
 Fat Tire Flyer; very nice climber, fabulous on steep twisty descents
 on awful pavement. Love the Paul M-Racers and the Jack Browns

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157626721226882/

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[RBW] Re: Durability and function

2011-05-15 Thread MichaelH
I think he got it exactly wrong.  Commuting to work on a CF frame is a
fashion statement that trumps reason.

I once considered buying a CF fork for my '88 Marinoni stage racing
frame.  On the way out of the bike shop parking lot, while I was
diligently watching traffic, my front wheel went down into an old
fashion storm grate. I went over the handle bars, then reached up and
caught my bike before it landed on me.  I then got up and rode fifteen
miles home on my steel fork without a worry in the world.  I haven't
given a thought to a CF fork since.

Michael

On May 14, 6:59 pm, scott clankbonesh...@gmail.com wrote:
 I don't care one way or another about the Carbon Fiber issue. But, in
 a recent thread I spotted this quote that I have been thinking about:

 .there is nothing wrong with
 steel bicycle frames or the people who ride them, like them, or make
 them. I
 just proposed to the frame builder list here that steel bikes must be
 considered as a fashion decision. This is not a put down at all. Lots
 to
 things from the past have value but are not very commercially viable.
 Vinyl
 records, film cameras, mechanical watches, steel bike frames all have
 their
 place with a small fanatic following.

 I don't know about Fashion Decision, but I have vinyl records that
 are 50+ years old that still play great. I had an Ipod that sh@t out
 on me after being left in the cold and CD's that skip even though I
 try to take good care of them. My film camera has been repaired and
 should last another 20 years hopefully, yet my first digital camera
 didn't last two years. I have a tube guitar amp that sounds fantastic
 that is 40 years old and has been repaired. My pops recently left me
 his 1928 Gibson mandolin that was once run over by a car (the
 headstock needed repair) that sounds better than any mandolin I've
 ever heard. These things are metaphors for handmade steel bicycle
 frames I suppose. But I hope that in fifty years my Sam Hilborne (yet
 to be delivered) will be around with the mandolin and tube amp.

    Scott

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-15 Thread MichaelH
I run the racers (26x1.6) on my tandem and have run the ruffy-tuffy on
my Ram, so it is impossible to compare the ride but the racers do seem
more puncture resistant with tougher sidewalls.  I found the r-ts to
be a pretty good all around tire on the Ram but have moved to sportier
selections since I mostly  use the Ram for longer joy rides.

michael

On May 15, 8:23 am, Forrest ftme...@me.com wrote:
 Any experiences and/or preferences on the Ruffy Tuffy versus Marathon
 Racer 700x30c? I am thinking of going with one or the other on my Riv
 LongLow (geometry and clearances similar to Rambouillet). Thanks.  --
 Forrest

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-15 Thread MichaelH
You don't say where the bars sit in relation to the saddle.   If they
are more than a cm below the saddle, then you should certainly
consider raising the bars.  This will also bring them back toward you,
so you might consider an 11, instead of a 10 cm stem.  This will bring
the drops closer to you.

michael

On May 15, 7:36 pm, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
 Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
 there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
 optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
 individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
 hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
 sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
 everything would click into place.

 Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
 I'm learning, but it's slow going.

 So with that in mind...

 I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
 first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
 improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
 pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
 neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
 shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
 that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
 changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.

 It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
 drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
 feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
 fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
 perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
 that I would not find anything like this in the retro style. I
 suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
 bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
 anything with a medium to shallow drop.

 At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
 couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
 for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
 mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
 mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a similar construction
 and finish to model 115 (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this similar
 construction means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
 website does not specify.

 So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
 with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
 stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
 for hand positions.

 The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
 for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
 Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
 hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
 a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
 Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
 in and get the 45 cm... ?

 Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
 will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
 interested to read what others have to say.

 Thanks,
 Zaelia

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[RBW] Re: Friday the 13th

2011-05-14 Thread MichaelH
Thanks for sharing the photos, very nicely done.  I especially liked
the moon shots.  Life is good, even when our life situation isn't; but
going for a good ride always helps that.

peace,
michael

On May 14, 2:32 am, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 With the dread of losing my job hanging over my head and my lost
 wallet somewhere in Milpitas I find it amazing that I can brighten up
 my mood with just a simple bike ride home.

 Pictures proved that I like taking 
 pictures:http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/sets/72157626591058217/

 -Manny My Middle name is bad luck Acosta

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[RBW] Re: 600K Brevet

2011-05-10 Thread MichaelH
Eric, you edited out all the pain!  I kept waiting for the part where
someone writhes on the ground with cramps in both thighs and
hamstrings simultaneously.

We'll all be pulling for you in Paris.  If MBM ever happens again,
I'll look forward to meeting you, even if I am neither capable nor
desirous of such long rides ( I max out at 200K  2 mt. passes when
I'm at my best)

congratulations,
michael

On May 9, 9:17 pm, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 Riding on lugged steel with friction shifting!  My video of this weekend's 
 brevet from San Francisco to Fort Bragg and back.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sW3OfkYeo2Q

 --Eric
 campyonly...@me.comwww.campyonly.comwww.wheelsnorth.org

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

2011-05-09 Thread MichaelH
I run the campy racing triple on a 48/34/26 triple and a 44/30
double.  I works very well, much better than the 105's it replaced.
It has a very short cage, which allows it to be set very low without
interfering with the chain stay.

michael

On May 8, 4:57 pm, BCDrums bcdr...@comcast.net wrote:
 It's hard to know which derailer has a matching radius without being
 able to hold it up to the chainring. I'm beginning to lean to the IRD
 because it states that it is designed for the big ring I have. Other
 derailers just list a maximum ring size.

 BC

 On May 8, 9:37 am, Bill Lucas wheelslu...@gmail.com wrote:



  BC,

  The IRD Aplina is not a copy of the Ultegra.

  I used it to replace a 9-speed Ultegra on a 48-34-24 set up.  The
  Ultegra was VERY fussy to get working.  I literally bolted the IRD in
  place, adjusted the stops and it works perfectly.  All that said, I
  tried one on my wife's new Ebisu All-Purpose and it didn't work well.
  I played with it for a while.  I ended up changing it to a Shimano
  FD-4403 Tiagra.  The Tiagra was modified to match the chainring
  radius.  These are indexed bicycles.

  You need to get a front derailleur that matches the chainring radius.
  Sometimes it takes a swap ot two too get it right.

  Bill
  Watsonvillle, CA

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[RBW] Stem Strength

2011-05-06 Thread MichaelH
The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
did trigger this question from me.

My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
imagination.

Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
stem?

michael

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[RBW] Re: Fwd: RR43 Link Update

2011-05-05 Thread MichaelH
I found when I opened up to full page and hit the magnifying button
the file became  readable.  But it acts funny.   Two fingers on the
pad activates the magnification instead of the scroll.  One finger
scrolls the screen.  I found myself inadvertently jumping all over the
place.

michael

On May 5, 1:43 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Print as a pdf, if you are on a Mac.

 May be a similar option in the  world-o-windows.

 - Jim

 on 5/4/11 5:12 PM, Bill Gibson (III) at bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:

 My inability to download it, etc. will motivate me to pay for a print copy!
 They deserve it, anyway.

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[RBW] Re: Lighter Wheel Set Question

2011-05-04 Thread MichaelH
The AHH was advertised as 135 when I considered buying one.  I was
surprised that GP moved away from the more versatile 132.5 of the
Rambouillet, which was put to sleep when the AHH was released.
Perhaps he thought the 135 fit the bikes image better.  I didn't have
any other bikes that took 135 and didn't want a  non- compatible wheel
set to deal with, along with the brakes, that was a deal breaker for
me.

I would recommend to the OP having the stays reset to 132.5 and using
either set of wheels at will.

michael

On May 4, 2:36 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 5/3/11 9:03 PM, Joe Bartoe at jbar...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Hi Bruce,

 The AHHs are supposed to have 132.5 spacing. Unless you've altered that, you
 should be able to use 130 OLD wheels just fine. I did that on mine.

 My aught-eight model has 135, dead-on.

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne for the hills?

2011-05-04 Thread MichaelH
Well Tia, Ernest Hemingway once said, Never trust an adjective.  Or
as Paul Simon put it, One man's ceiling is another man's floor.  So
one riders sluggish is another riders roadrunner.  I find my
Rambouillet very zippy and  very much like my '88 Marinoni, which
carries World Championship stripes. That said, someone with 10% body
fat and used to a 16 lb CF frame would probably find them both
sluggish.

The LHT was never intended to be zippy on hills; it's designed to be
stable and comfortable, with or without a load.  It is a low cost, tig
welded version of the Atlantis.  I suspect you will find the  SH more
zippy than the LHT, but if you are used to a full fledged, unloaded
road bike, like a Rambouillet,  then you should be prepared for some
trade off for the added stability and load carrying capacity.

My favorite commuter / touring bike is my Ebisu All Purpose which has
geometry and steel similar to the SH. With 35 mm tires it is not too
zippy going up hill, but on the other hand it will climb straight up a
10% grade between parked cars and passing traffic without raising my
BP two points.  Probably if I put lighter, narrower wheels  tires on,
it would be more zippy and less stable. I am blessed, so when I want
that zip I can go full out and jump on my beloved Ram.

Bottom line, no one bike can be best at everything but as GP says, the
modern ultra zippy bike has become a one trick pony.  Decide what's
really important and what isn't.  In the end, happiness is wanting
what you have not having what you want, because the ego likes wanting
more than it likes having and that truly is the endless uphill
struggle.

michael
in rainy, flooded northern Vermont

On May 4, 10:53 am, TSW tsesun...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi all,
 I'wayve searched all over forum archives and can't seem to find much
 discussion on this question: how does the Sam climb?

 I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a 52 (ideally I'd ride a 54,
 and 56 is just a tad too big), my 26 yr old Trek 560 ready to retire,
 and I'm used to a more aggressive geometry for climbing the hills
 around here.  I'll need to to test ride a Sam again, as Riv HQ isn't
 too handy to a steep hill.  I took out a Surly LHT (52/26 in) recently
 up a fairly steep hill and found it sluggish.

 But in the meantime, I wonder what're folks' thoughts on how the Sam
 does on hills.

 TIA,
 TS
 Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: Fwd: RR43 Link Update

2011-05-04 Thread MichaelH
I could live without downloading but even magnified the print is too
small to read.  Has anyone tried printing it?  It looks like a great
issue.
michael

On May 4, 8:12 pm, Bill Gibson (III) bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:
 My inability to download it, etc. will motivate me to pay for a print copy!
 They deserve it, anyway.



 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Rivendell Bicycle Works no-re...@rivbike.com
 Date: Wed, May 4, 2011 at 4:43 PM
 Subject: RR43 Link Update
 To: Bill bill.bgib...@gmail.com

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        Rivendell Reader 43 Some users couldn't open the Reader link, so here
 it is again. Sorry for the dupe email.

 -Dave

 http://shade.keeptrees.com/publications/g30/TheRivendellReader/#page0

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    *Copyright © 2011 Rivendell Bicycle Works, All rights reserved.*
 You got this email cuz you are a paid-up current Rivendell member.
 *Our mailing address is:*
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 Add us to your address
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[RBW] Re: Bike Tour Stuff.

2011-04-24 Thread MichaelH
Personally, I'd leave the dog home, and spring for a lighter tent.
michael

On Apr 24, 1:24 am, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 Pictures proved that I packed 
 :http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/sets/72157626439125925/

 On Apr 23, 10:21 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
 wrote:



  As I get ready to pack for my third bike tour. I start doing my
  traditional pre-bike tour rituals.
  I shave my mustache. (Something I'm not quite fond of doing. Because
  it makes me look younger than I really I am.)
  I lay out all my gear and take a picture. ( Because if you don't take
  a picture of it. It never really happened)
  Then I upload the picture. ( Because I'm vain.)

  As I look at my previous pre-bike tour pictures I see the evolution of
  gear as the time goes by. Starting from not knowing what to pack, to
  packing too much and then not really caring what to pack. Not having a
  scale but being a darn good guess-a-mater I'm putting the weight
  between twenty to a hundred pounds.(Remember I'm a PE teacher not a
  math teacher.)
  Curious whats the average weight for packing for a nice tour?
  -Manny

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[RBW] Re: Project bike will take Roly Poly tires.

2011-04-24 Thread MichaelH
Nice bike William. I like the way these older standard gage 531C ride
and hope it gives you a lot of joy.  Why struggle with a 24; why not
just go to a 27 or 28?

My winter project was rebuilding a 1984 Trek 620.  I spread the stays
just so I could go to a cassette with a 12 cog, which allows for a
smaller set of rings.  In this case 48/34/ 26.  But the 34/27 will
handle pretty much everything after some spring riding.
michael

On Apr 19, 4:01 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm well on my way to converting a 1984 Trek 770 into a retro-modern
 all road bike.  Two shortcomings of my current road bike (a Davidson
 Signature) were that it doesn't take a tire wider than 700x25, and
 that it fits like a racing bike.  I had it custom built in my youth,
 and so now to get the bars up I had to use a Technomic Deluxe which is
 excellent but I think it looks a little less than ideal to have a ton
 of seatpost and a ton of stem showing.  It makes the frame look too
 small.

 Anyway, this Trek is a couple cm taller than my Davidson, so I hope to
 get a similar fit with a regular proportioned stem.  I finished
 stripping the bike down, and I'll start selling off a lot of the Campy
 Super Record parts through the normal channels.  I got my compact
 double crankset, and I've secured a few freewheels for various gearing
 options.  The recent highlight is that I've confirmed that a 700x27
 Roly Poly will fit (no fender).  I'm thrilled about that, and it was
 something that I wasn't sure would work out.  If the bike turns out as
 well as I hope, I might get it powdercoated.  I bought some
 Resurrectio stickers from Riv on that chance.

 Riv content:  Higher bars, fearlessly riding a 30 year old lugged
 steel MUSA frameset, Roly Poly tires bought from Riv, not being retro
 for retros sake.

 Pics on my flickr:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157626511175478/

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[RBW] Re: Downhill Leg

2011-04-16 Thread MichaelH
It's 35 degrees here, with a stiff wind and a mixture of rain and snow
going by the window. I can accept what is, but  I resist any urge to
go out on a bicycle.

Enjoy your ride, keep the rubber side down and
take care of Self, it's one of a kind and irreplaceable,
michael
Westford, Vt

On Apr 16, 12:39 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Been doing the 30 Days of Biking challenge this month (30daysofbiking.com),
 and the miles have been exclusively Rivendell so far - split between the
 Hilsen and Quickbeam. Since yesterday's ride was 15 for 15, today's ride
 means there is now fewer than before.

 This act appealed to me for its simplicity - no logs to fill out, no big
 specific mileage commitment - just the idea that for the 30 days of April,
 I'd ride some distance every day, even if it was just around the block.

 Last month, like a lot of folks in this region, I got crushed by a nasty flu
 that had me off the bike for three weeks and pretty weak for a couple more.
 It got me thinking a bit, making me realize how easy it can be sometimes to
 take for granted the wonderous act of spinning a pedal, even if it's a
 wind-assisted roll at a lazy pace.

 Sometimes I've raced, sometimes I've aimed for a long distance number,
 sometimes I've loafed along and enjoyed the sun, hunkered down and cursed
 the wind or just tried to hang on until momentum rejoined me. But, they all
 now are memories which I appreciate and even relish.

 Biking is good, and even though we all find a myriad of ways to slice and
 dice, dissect and intellectualize it, the act of riding seems to always pay
 back such glorious dividends.

 Gonna have to roll out short today - ended up with a chunk more on the
 weekend task list than I'd planned, but the hum of the tires and the action
 of the legs will sustain me after I've returned.

 And a big thanks to Harry H, whose post reminded me to do this.

 - Jim

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Could you take a moment to vote for me?

 I am entered in a audiobook contest which is initially determined by public
 voting - if you could go here -

 http://tinyurl.com/vote-jimedgar

 register on the Bookperk site and vote for my read 
 -http://tinyurl.com/vote-jimedgar- I'd really appreciate it.  You can vote
 one time each day until early May.  Vote early, vote often!

 Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Yoke height for Racer Centerpull brakes

2011-04-13 Thread MichaelH
I think you guys are making this way more complicated and confusing
than it needs to be.

If you want to lift something with a cable it is best to pull it in
exactly the direction you want it to move.So a long and nearly
vertical arm, like the neo-retros move upward in a wider, flatter arc
and therefore need a higher cable set pretty close to 90 degrees to
lift the arm upward.   A lower profile like the Shimano brake moves
more inward in a narrower arch and so will work better with a shorter
cable, also set close to 90 degrees.  I'm not staring at my neo-retros
right now, but I believe Paul recommends a 6 high straddle and I
believe that is about where mine is set.  They work great.  I also
have both the Racers (on a my tandem) and the Racer Ms on my
Rambouillet.  You will get a pretty good angle at about 4 on these.
That is where mine are set and they work quite well.

michael


On Apr 13, 2:28 am, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:
 Rene, have you read Sheldon's article on cantilever geometry?

 http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical (links to
 the section on mechanical advantage)

 Of course, the specifics of the article are about cantilevers, but the
 information about straddle cable height should be pretty much the same
 for centerpull calipers.

 The truth is, I don't think there is one optimal MA setting for
 these types of brakes, it really comes down to the vagaries of your
 personal setup and your own preferences in how your brakes feel.
 Sheldon points out that the normal instincts of brake feel, coming
 from cars--that a firm, stiff response in the lever is optimal--
 doesn't necessarily lead to the best brake set up here.

 MA is basically the ratio of distances traveled between lever and
 pad.  At higher MA's, the lever is traveling much farther than the pad
 is, and thus it can feel spongy and worrisome.  However, if you
 think about it, high MA means that all that distance being traveled by
 the lever is turning into clamping force at the rim, just like when
 you use a simple lever and fulcrum, you push the lever a much greater
 distance than the load, but produce a greater force than you could
 unaided.  Thus, spongy feeling levers can actually produce
 prodigious stopping power, and have great modulation.  However, with
 too much MA the lever can bottom out on the handlebars.   Lower MA's,
 conversely, feel firmer at the lever and prevent the lever bottoming
 out on the bar, but you will need to squeeze the lever harder within
 that smaller range in order to produce the same stopping power as
 before.  So some of it comes down to hand strength, some to how your
 lever interacts with the curve of your bars, and some to how you want
 the lever to feel when you pull back on it.

 I would set the MA as high as is possible while maintaining what feels
 to you like an okay range of motion for the lever, i.e. that doesn't
 risk bottoming out on the bars.  I took this to the extreme on a bike
 i recently sold.  It had a traditional medium-profile cantilever
 (single front brake on a fixed gear) and a nice old LX mtb (pre-v
 brake) lever.  I basically set the straddle cable in line with the
 bottom of the fork crown, so as low as it could go without affecting
 clearance.  The lever traveled relatively far, but MAN, could that
 thing stop--it shot me forward off the seat the first time i pulled
 it.

 On Apr 12, 9:37 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:



  Finally figured out how to use the calculator. However, while I can see the
  MA go up or down, what is the optimal MA to strive for? I'm still
  unsure, based on all I've read, whether a lower or a higher MA are better. I
  thought I understood that lower MA meant more modulation but more force
  needed to apply the brakes; also a spongier feeling at the lever. Higher MA
  meant ligher snappier feeling that stops very quickly but looses modulation.

  Is it then a matter of finding what you like or is there a number or setting
  to go for?

  René

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[RBW] Re: Riv Rally East Countdown - Only 4 weeks away!!!

2011-04-11 Thread MichaelH
Really wish I could do this but a long term commitment stands in the
way.  Be sure to post pics and a ride report.
michael

On Apr 9, 4:10 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Riv Rally East is nearly upon us!  All are welcome to join us, not
 just Riv owners (Fri night, May 6 through Sun May 8 in Wellsboro PA /
 Pine Creek Gorge).  If you haven't already, you will need to make
 hotel reservations soon...  The link again to the Sherwood Motel 
 iswww.sherwoodmotel.org.  The link to the Wellsboro lodging site 
 ishttp://www.wellsboroweb.com/wwdirectory/lodging.shtml.  And if you
 want to know more about the rides in the area, here's the link to a
 great website, with LOTS of information, including links to Wellsboro
 information:http://pinecreekbikerides.com/.

 I'll post more detailed info in the coming weeks on exact meeting
 times, planned routes, etc., but for now the planned agenda is:

 Fri May 6 - Arrive Wellsboro (I plan to arrive late afternoon/early
 evening).  I will be staying at the Sherwood.
 Sat May 7 - Meet at Wellsboro Village Green (time TBD), embark on 41
 mile grand loop of the Pine Creek Gorge.
 Sat evening - Eat, drink and be merry
 Sun May 8 - Meet at Wellsboro Village Green (time TBD), choose one of
 several nice area loops (I will choose a shorter 20-30 mile loop); we
 can remain together as one big ride, or split into smaller groups.
 Sun afternoon - Depart Wellsboro

 The size of our group (ie folks who either confirmed, or expressed a
 strong interest) is roughly 30 strong!!!

 BULLETIN BOARD:

 Noah Schabacker from NYC is looking for a ride to the Rally.  Anyone
 from NYC with room for Noah?  Noah, you're welcome to drive with me if
 you can make it out to New Brunswick or Princeton NJ (by train?).
 Anyone who can help out Noah, please contact him at
 iprufr...@gmail.com

 Anne Paulson and any other out of town travelers considering being
 East for the Rally, let me know if you are planning to join, and if
 you need a ride from the NJ area.  Also please let me know if you need
 a bike (or feel free to bring your folding bike).  There was at least
 one person on this forum who indicated a willingness to offer up one
 of his Rivs for someone who needs a bike.  I have a few non-Riv (but
 very Riv-ish) bikes I am also happy to loan.

 Michael Hechmer - I don't think there's camping in the immediate
 vicinity of Wellsboro; but check out the Wellsboro lodging link above
 for potential leads... Hotel/BB will be you best bet, I'm afraid.

 GRANT P and the RIV FOLKS in Walnut Creek:  While it may not be
 practical, we'd sure love to have you join us for the rally.  If
 there's any chance any one of you is interested, I'm confident we can
 arrange for a bike and to get you hooked up with ground
 transportation.  If interested, kindly let me know.

 FINALLY - Anyone else doing the NYC Five Boro Tour on May 1?  (Please
 let me know).

 Peace,
 BB

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[RBW] Re: Dang-- My 64cm Atlantis Was Stolen

2011-04-11 Thread MichaelH
Jordan, not much I can do from Vermont, but I am sorry about the loss
of your bike.  I'm also sorry about the inevitable loss of trust and
security.

I think I would notify both police stations and bike shops throughout
the bay area. Often the people who end up with good bikes don't have
any idea what they have and go to a bike shop asking rudimentary
questions, like how do you use a presta valve.

I hope you get your bike back.

michael

On Apr 10, 10:42 pm, Jordan prospir...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey friends,

 I wanted to spread the word about my stolen Atlantis. It was stolen in
 San Francisco, but then spotted at the Oakland Coliseum Swap Meet.
 Unfortunately, someone got to it there before me and it was sold (sans
 Sackville Sacks) for $280 there to someone who I believe was going to
 resell it (I was told he wasn't tall).

 Riv has my proof of purchase and I have the serial number, so I'm
 hoping it will show up soon since the frame is so noticeable. I'm
 hoping you can help me keep an eye out around the Bay area. Can you
 let me know if you see a big Atlantis? Maybe ask the owner if they
 recently purchased it second hard. If so would they be willing to
 contact me?

 I can be reached at prospir...@gmail.com.

 -I've been posting on 
 craigslist:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/2307503750.html
 -I have reported the incident to the police
 -Here's a cool shot of of the bike by the Presidio pet 
 cemetery:http://www.flickr.com/photos/jibbah/5011167058/sizes/l/in/photostream/

 Thanks so much and happy riding!

 Jordan

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[RBW] Re: Riding the Atlantis

2011-04-05 Thread MichaelH
I have no experience with the Atlantis, but it's certainly on my
bucket list.  If anyone has a used 62-4 frame in any condition; I'm
interested.

That said, I agree with Jim, that it is easy to overstate this front
vs rear loading thing.  In 30+ years of riding I haven't found all
that much difference.  I have tried to add weight to the front end of
too quick bikes, but it did not help or hurt handling.

I have a strong preference for carrying as much stuff as possible
above my fenders so prefer HB bags and even large (Nelson LF) saddle
bags. I know I can get enough weight - like computers and stuff - into
a saddle bag to noticeably affect handling, but I tend to prefer that
to arriving home with muddy panniers.

Michael

On Apr 5, 11:05 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Morning Everyone:

 I know that the Atlantis is design for rear loading more than front loading
 but do any of you guys fight with the instability of front loading on a
 Atlantis?

 Thanks

 K.

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

2011-04-03 Thread MichaelH
I run Ritchey Race Slicks on my old racing bike.  Affordable and
reasonably durable.  I do however sense the bike handling is quicker
than 23mm Michelin clinchers and certainly a lot quicker than my Ram
with good 28s.

It is surprising how fast wheel weight can build up though.  Yesterday
I realized that, having retired from work and commuting, that I no
longer needed the MA 40's and 38MM Avocets on my All Purpose Ebisu, so
decided to throw on a set of wheels with Open Pro Rims and 32 MM
Pasellas.  I did a before and after weighing on a bathroom scale and
was amazed to see a 1 1/2 lb difference.

Michael

On Apr 2, 2:31 pm, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com wrote:
 Charlie, I actually have a set of Mavic Reflex tubular rims I have
 thought about building for this bike. I'd like to find some smooth
 tread 700 x 28 tubular tires though.

 On Mar 28, 8:41 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:



  As a limited use racer all Campy with gearing set up for you and
  tubular rims/ tires maybe some Tufo tires eh ? As a practical bike for
  faster rides that still allows for bad weather and luggage. Nitto it
  out and use a compact crank with at least a 28 to 30 tooth rear...plus
  hammered fenders because they are pretty. Silver parts for sure either
  way. You have to be a lightweight for this bike so I can't own one but
  the thought is nice. Have fun with it !

  On Mar 28, 11:20 am, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com
  wrote:

   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_D0f7V9H_Bq4/TZDRZfEMkiI/AZ...

   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_D0f7V9H_Bq4/TZDRNq1bBkI/AZ...
   How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

2011-03-28 Thread MichaelH
Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?

For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
pattern.  Still cheaper than TA  musa.  For BB anything economical
will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.

Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
coasting below 17/18 mph.

Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
fear.

Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
crescent wrench to set them up.

Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
but they are good posts.

Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
racing saddle.

Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.

I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:

http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094

Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
ANYWHERE!

blessings,
michael



On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com
wrote:
 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_D0f7V9H_Bq4/TZDRZfEMkiI/AZ...

 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_D0f7V9H_Bq4/TZDRNq1bBkI/AZ...
 How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

2011-03-28 Thread MichaelH
Joe, my hat's off to you.  A 53/12 which is pretty much the stock
racing gear is 119 GI; while a 50/11 is 122 GI.  I'm old and decrepit
but 108 GI (48/12; 52/13; 44/11) is all I really need to launch me off
a Vermont mountaintop.  At the other end I find a 34/27 (34 GI is OK
most days), but when I head over to my sisters house, which includes 4
miles of 12% grade up White Face Mt., I need every gear I can get and
still end up begging god for mercy.

michael

On Mar 28, 3:44 pm, Joe Bartoe jbar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Geez Michael,

 Could you be a bit more specific?

 Great answer. I agree with most of what you said, but have some problems with 
 the smallish big ring you propose. I experimented with smaller big rings for 
 a while and found that I did indeed miss my 50/11 gear. It's nice to keep 
 your legs moving after a long climb and many times the smaller big ring would 
 spin out. I usually run a 50/34 with an 11/28. I find that the only time I 
 really drop down to my small ring is on extended climbs. I know this will 
 vary by riding style, but thought I'd give my two cents.

 BTW, I'd set it up with the '11 Campy Veloce with compact crank set. You'd 
 have to forego the brakes for the Roadeo, but maybe the Velo Orange Grand Cru 
 brakes might be a good substitution.

 Joe



  Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:14:59 -0700
  Subject: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?
  From: mhech...@gmail.com
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  Great question.  I am going to assume that this is a go-fast bike,
  built for fast club rides and maybe an occasional rondenee, yes?

  For a drive train you will want a nice compact double, like the better
  Sugino Alpina, or the Da Vinci, unless you have you heart set on a
  TA.  A 48/34 mated to a Hyperglide 12/27 cassette gives .  If you need
  or want a lower gear (I do) I would strongly recommend springing for
  the White VBC, which is a beautiful crank and you can set it up as a
  44/30 with an 11-28 cassette for an excellent gear range and shift
  pattern.  Still cheaper than TA  musa.  For BB anything economical
  will do, and for this bike i would definitely not go PW.

  Wheels - Open Pro rims mated to either White or Ultegra hubs,
  depending on whether you prefer sealed or serviceable bearings.  I
  like the White hubs - lighter and cheaper than PW.  Some people find
  them noisy, and they do have a loudish hum which you can hear when
  coasting below 17/18 mph.

  Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
  and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
  buy.  If you have never used them you have nothing to loose but your
  fear.

  Aero levers mated to your hand size.  I like the fat Cane Creek/
  Tecktro, but some people find the narrower 105's more to their
  liking.  Brake caliper's depend on your fender choice.  If you are
  putting a nice pair of Honjo Hammered (which would look great on this
  bike) then the first choice should be Paul's Racer Ms, unless you are
  really up for scouring the internet for old school and using a
  crescent wrench to set them up.

  Bars are pretty personal but very few people have ever been
  disappointed with the noodle shape.  Nitto Pearl or Tech. delux stem.
  If you search around you can find lighter, silver posts than Nitto,
  but they are good posts.

  Saddle, if you want to safe some weight, consider a Terry Ti-Fly.  A
  good compromise between a Brooks or Selle Anatomica and a full blown
  racing saddle.

  Pedals, a light weight touring pedal - I like the Speed Play Frogs,
  which work well with my Keen Commuter sandals.

  I have my Ramboulliet set up as a go fast, here's what it looks like:

 http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094

  Most important of all:  ENJOY THE PROCESS; ITS NOT ABOUT GETTING
  ANYWHERE!

  blessings,
  michael

  On Mar 28, 2:20 pm, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com
  wrote:
   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_D0f7V9H_Bq4/TZDRZfEMkiI/AZ...

   https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_D0f7V9H_Bq4/TZDRNq1bBkI/AZ...
   How would you build it?

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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frame. Now what?

2011-03-28 Thread MichaelH
No down tube shifters! Bummer. Why put together a classy classic and
leave off DT posts?  I guess Campy then, but I certainly wouldn't
spring for Record.  I will say the new Shimano RD 6700, which I now
have on my Ram is the smoothest RD I have ever used.  I admit that
even though over the years the Campy stuff I have owned has way
outperformed the Shimano stuff.

michael

On Mar 28, 4:32 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 The R doesn't have dt shifter braze ons -- perhaps that is why they will be
 fussy, That little detail apart, I think dt shifters would be the cat's
 pajamas or meow or whatever you like.

 On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 1:53 PM, Patrick in VT swing4...@gmail.com wrote:





  On Mar 28, 3:14 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

   Silver Down Tube shifters.  Faster than BE, cleaner looking than SIS
   and in many situations, faster too. Least fussy shifters money can
   buy.

  i think down tube shifters will actually be the most fussy shifters
  money can buy for the Roadeo.

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 --
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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: (Tall Riders) Rando Bags

2011-03-27 Thread MichaelH
Ditto what Doug wrote.  The top of the bag does sag just a bit, which
I'm sure it wouldn't do with a decaleur, but so what.  The bag sits
very solidly and comes on and off pretty easily.  The strap that sells
with it is also very well done.

michael

On Mar 25, 11:03 pm, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Kelly:

 I've been pleased with Acorn's Boxy Rando on a Nitto small front rack
 (same platform as Mark's, I think?).  Sits on the rack solidly, no
 connnection to the h'bars.  Holds a ton of stuff.  Acorn puts a
 stiffener inside so the bag pretty much maintains its shape.  Had mine
 for a couple of years now  wouldn't leave home without it.  And it
 looks great.

 dougP

 On Mar 25, 7:09 pm, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:



  I keep looking and thinking that during the summer when I'm not out to carry
  as much that a rando bag on a marks rack might be the ticket.  

  Trouble is I don't think they make rando bags tall enough to reach the
  Decaleur. I'm measuring about 15 inches from top of rack to bottom of
  handlebars.  

  So what have you done?

  Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Longboard fenders on a Ram

2011-03-25 Thread MichaelH
I commuted for many years with a mud flap that was a couple of inches
off the ground.  You will not be able to use any variety of fork mount
roof top carrier, but other than that, no problem.

michael

On Mar 25, 5:27 pm, Steve Wimberg st...@stevewimberg.com wrote:
 Hi all,

 I just installed a set of Longbard fenders on my 60cm Rambouillet.  
 The bottom of the front rubber mudflap is only 2 inches off the  
 ground, which seems low to me.  On a brief test ride this morning, I  
 noticed that it does catch on the edge of a curb when riding off of  
 one.  But that in itself doesn't appear to be such a big deal because  
 the rubber is flexible.

 Does anyone see any potential problems with the bottom of the fender  
 being so low?  I am really only riding on the road - no trails or  
 anything like that.

 Thoughts?
 Steve

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread MichaelH
I would love to own an Atlantis, no matter where it is made.  I do
have a general bias in favor of buying as close to home as possible
but that is not based on any assumptions about quality.

michael

On Mar 20, 11:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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[RBW] Re: When is a bike to heavy?

2011-03-18 Thread MichaelH
Well, this certainly has been a lively discussion!  I'm inclined to
suspect that Jan Heine is right.  My 22 lb Rambouillet and 25 lb Trek
620 have similar geometry and very similar handling and
responsiveness, despite a 10% weight difference.  The 30 lb Ebisu has
the advantage of handling significantly beefier tires (It seems to be
like an AHH but with canti brakes) but the OS tubing and added
stiffness may degrade responsiveness a small but noticeable amount.  I
don't think I have ever ridden a standard gauge frame designed around
35-42 mm tires that wasn't also specked to be a workhorse.  Is it live
or is it memorex?  Is it weight or is it stiffness? Who can be sure!

The snow and mud is receding here in Vt but with the wind blowing at
40 - 50 mph, no bike feels lively.

michael




On Mar 18, 10:52 am, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:
  i can almost guarantee if you reduce bike weight by 5 lbs, you
  will both notice and enjoy the difference.

 I am not sure that bike weight matters much by itself. My bike rides
 the same whether I carry only a spare tube in the handlebar bag or am
 loaded down with 10 lbs of food and clothes for a 600 km brevet. (Yes,
 you can measure the difference on a long climb, but it doesn't change
 how the bike feels, nor how much I enjoy the ride.)

 That said, I really dislike riding bikes with heavy frames. Not
 because they weigh more, but because they feel different. Call it
 lively feel or planing, there is a joy to a high-performance bike
 that is absent from a bike that is overbuilt and too stiff for the
 purpose. Putting lighter parts on a heavy frame doesn't make a
 difference...

 In the 1960s and early 1970s, time trial bikes were equipped with
 drilled-out components and even cantilever brakes to save weight.
 (Remember a href=http://www.bikequarterly.com/rebour.html;Merckx'
 hour record bike/a?) The conventional wisdom was that a TT bike had
 to be as light as possible, even on a flat course. Of course, we all
 know that the bike's weight matters little in a flat time trial, but
 the old wisdom probably had some underlying grain of truth. I am sure
 that I would have preferred to ride at a constant, all-out effort on
 the superlight frame of a TT bike than on the heavier frame of a
 standard racing bike, because of its lively feel or planing, and
 not because of the holes drilled into the chainrings!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterlyhttp://www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog athttp://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: now they've done it. Campy canti's!!

2011-03-18 Thread MichaelH
I was headed out for a ride today, when I discovered the 105 hubs I
was using needed some serious attention.  Long before I was finished I
came to the conclusion that adjusting these hubs was way harder than
the '80 vintage Campys I used for 25 years, and way harder than the
Whites I built up two years ago.  Right now, if I were putting a bike
together, other than derailleurs and cassettes, I would avoid Campy,
Sram, and Shimano altogether. There are just too many better
alternatives available - Pauls brakes, PW  White hubs  BBs, White,
DaVinci, Sugino, TA cranks, Cane Creek / Tektro levers, Silver
shifters, Chris King HS, Wipperman chains  and of course  Nitto
parts.

michael

On Mar 18, 1:28 pm, bfd bfd...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Mar 18, 9:39 am, Sean Whelan strummer_...@yahoo.com wrote: I look 
 forward to the new Canti's from Campagnolo, as I have a cross bike that could 
 use them. My biggest problem with Campy in recent years is that they have 
 pushed so far into the 11-speed madness across most of their range and they 
 don't really sell much that I'd want to buy. They discontinued their silver 
 hubs and low end triple cranks as well.

 Actually, unless you have to get Record or Chorus, Campy still offers
 10 speed cranks/bb/ft der in their 2011 Centaur, Veloce and the new CX
 lineup.

 They also offer a Comp triple crankset/bb/ft der, in silver too!:

 http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/groupsetdetail/item_guarCOMPTRIPLE_c...

 Doing a quick search, I found the crankset starts at about $175 and
 goes up to $250 depending on where you shop. It might be cheaper in
 the UK.

 I agree that it is a shame Campy now only offers one hub, Record, in
 black only - looks cheap and ugly! However, you can probably blame the
 market, which includes Campy, for moving towards pre-built, boutique
 wheels. Why sell a hub at say $200-250, when you can get people to buy
 entire wheelsets at $1K or MORE?!

  I have 3 Campy equipped bikes but if I bought a new bike this year, I'd be 
  hard pressed to outfit it with new Campy stuff. 11-Speed Chorus? Man, I 
  don't think so.

 Take a look at Centaur and Veloce or if you can handle a compact
 double, the new CX stuff. One reason I like Campy is that its ergo
 shifters are rebuildable AND maybe more importantly, small parts are
 readily available. You won't get that with Shimano STI or Sram double
 tap shifters. Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Wife's new Atlantis

2011-03-18 Thread MichaelH
OMG, did you spend a lot of time wiping the drool off before you took
the pictures!  Tell us about the fenders.

michael

On Mar 18, 3:09 pm, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 Ok so since Dawn hasn't posted I can't help but share this beauty!

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/5516895710/in/photostream/

 I think I may be jealous of the way this one turned out. :)

 Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

2011-03-18 Thread MichaelH
You have gotten lots of good advice.  I would add one thought; Riv
measures their bikes CTC, which actually makes them about 1 CM smaller
than most other bike companies, which measure CTT.  It also depends on
where you want the handlebars in relation to the saddle.  I think
Grant assumes even to 2 cm above.  If you ride 2 or more cm below (as
I do), then one size smaller will be fine.

When I bought my Rambouillet, Grant recommended a 64, but I went with
62, because it was in stock, and 64 sounded large.  I thought the 62
was CTT, Although I'm perfectly happy with 62, I now realize that 63
CTC or 64 CTT would actually be a perfect fit.

You wont go wrong trusting the Riv recommendation.

michael

On Mar 17, 9:55 pm, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello everyone:

 I am new to this forum and I have a question to ask about ordering an
 Atlantis.  I have taken my PBH but I am no where near Walnut Creek
 California.  I am on the east coast of the US and no where near a Rivendell
 Dealer.  Can you tell me, your experience of bicycle fit when ordering over
 the phone a bicycle that you have never tried?  Did the bicycle feel to big
 or too small?  I have always heard good things about the people who work for
 Rivendell Bicycle works but wanted to ask people who actually purchase their
 bicycles.

 THanks

 Khalid

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[RBW] Lever question

2011-03-18 Thread MichaelH
Can anyone help me understand the difference between the tektro 200
levers, which Riv lists on the site, vs. the stock 340s, listed on the
tektro site?  I have the Cane Creek, w gum hoods, which I think are
great levers and don't want to be disappointed by something inferior
for the sake of $10.

michael

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[RBW] When is a bike to heavy?

2011-03-17 Thread MichaelH
OK, now that we have dispensed with helmets, allow me to raise another
controversial topic.

This is not like, when am I too heavy, which is easy right now.

I have 4 bikes, well 6 really, but we wont go into those details.  All
four of them are around 62 cm and get ridden regularly - a 1988
classic stage racing frame, weighing around 22 lbs; a Rambouillet,
outfitted with White/ Open Pro wheels,  a White dbl crank, Honjo
fenders,  a Mark's Rack, and light tires also weighing about 22 lbs.;
a 1984 Trek (Reynolds 531 standard gauge tubing)  with Shimano 9 speed
cranks and shifters, SKS Fenders, Passella 32 mm T Guards and  coming
in around 25 lbs; and An Ebisu All Purpose, with front and real steel
racks, steel fenders, MA 40 Rims, triple DaVinci Cranks, and 38 mm
Avocet Cross tires that weighs in at a hefty 30 lbs.

I live in Vermont, which has lots of rolling hills and some
significant climbs.   Do you think the 5 lbs alone, between the Trek
and Ebisu is enough to effect the performance?  What about the 3 lb
difference between the Rambouillet and the Trek?  Or, are the
perceived differences imaginary?

michael

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[RBW] Re: now they've done it. Campy canti's!!

2011-03-17 Thread MichaelH
They certainly look like a good design, and if you want to use Campy
levers it's probably a good choice.  My experience suggests that
Shimano brifters do not work well with cantis, even Shimano cantis.
But I owe my life to Paul, so I'll be sticking to my neos, as well as
they stick to my rims.

michael

On Mar 17, 12:02 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 I saw these today new Campy canti brakes... now I know what to
 save my money for. Look beautiful and they come in silver. And I can
 stop looking for vintage Campy OR canti's.( I have one set but need a
 second in case someone has one set and want to sell theirs?)

 http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/03/16/campagnolo-reveals-previews-of-20...

 ~Mike

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[RBW] Re: Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

2011-03-16 Thread MichaelH
My experience confirms that safety concerns are the biggest impediment
to getting people on bicycles.  No doubt, the ubiquitous helmet
contributes to that fear, but I am convinced that fear has two other
deeper causes.  First, far too many roads where most commuters ride
are unnecessarily dangerous and new riders lack the skill and moxie to
take their share of the lane.  Second, Americans watch way too much
TV, which is an entire industry composed of fearful, angry, unhappy
people intent on making everyone else fearful, resentful, and
unhappy.  There are many things that people ought to be concerned
about, like climate change and spreading poverty, but instead, as this
video clip pointed out, we are all encouraged to be stressed out about
minimal or non existent dangers.  Too many people simply approach
life, including cycling, from that place of fear.

I just retired from a physically and emotionally demanding job at a
major medical center.  Whenever I mentioned the slightest ache or pain
I would invariably be asked or simply assumed that I had hurt myself
commuting to work.  Yet, with a daily census of around 450 inpatients
we probably averaged two admissions a year for cycling injuries.

Promoting reason over fear is a good thing to do, but I doubt that the
bicycle helmet is the best place to start.

michael,
not enjoying mud season in VT!

On Mar 16, 4:20 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can't comment on the speaker's delivery, but what does that matter?
 I pretty much agreed with most of what the guy said, that is, to
 get people on bicycles, you don't want to force them to wear a helmet
 and imply that they are doing something more dangerous than
 driving.      Conversely, the overbearing prevalence of private-
 automobile culture could probably be combatted effectively by
 enforcing a strict automobile helmet law.

 'Copenhagencyclechic' and it's sister-sites across the web represent
 exactly the kind of campaign bicycling needs-- something that appeals
 to peoples' (women and men's) sense of freedom and individuality (and
 vanity), and incidentally the idea of bicycling for utility/
 transportation rather than for sport or recreation.    The bottom line
 is, the energy-rich, complacent people (not saying this is ALL people)
 of the industrialized world aren't going to hop on bikes because of
 Peak
 Oil or 390ppm CO2 in the atmosphere, and the hotter, more barren
 planet that we have created and will leave to the next generation.
 But if you appeal to their sense of vanity, you could make some
 headway.   This is exactly what the automobile industry does to sell
 cars-  and they know what they are doing.

 -Matt

 On Mar 16, 12:33 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



  Damn, Jim, it's about time someone had the courage to raise this highly
  troublesome subject; moral standards in this our little world of odd, retro
  bike geekdom are tumbling fast.

  Patrick Sarah Palin for President -- as long as she promises complete
  silence for four years: Moore

  On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 7:17 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 

  thill@gmail.com wrote:
   I have nothing against professional photographers or exploiting people, 
   but
   I am greatly offended by the shameless portrayal of internal gear hubs and
   chain guards as sensible for transportation bikes! Both of these cause me
   lots of trouble on a daily basis!

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  --
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  Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact
  Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Most Plastic Water Bottles Leach Chemicals

2011-03-06 Thread MichaelH
I use the kleen canteen bottles on nitto cages.  If you don't squeeze
the cage tight they will rattle, but are otherwise quite secure.

michael

On Mar 6, 4:54 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 4:45 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  Is there a solution for carrying stainless steel bottles?  They don't fit
  well in traditional cages, although I know it can be done.

 I've found the kleen canteen ones work pretty well in the cages that riv 
 offers.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: FS: Dinotte Lights 200L headlight and 140L taillight kit

2011-02-25 Thread MichaelH
If you don't need lighting for more than 4 hours at a time, and want
lights for more than one bike, these are an optimum solution.  I have
used them for the past four years and have been very happy with them.
They are extremely lite and light.

michael

On Feb 24, 10:52 pm, Rod C rodc...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello,

 I'm selling this kit for $150 shipped CONUS.  Don't know if anyone on
 this
 group is interested in non dynamo lighting but here goes.  It's been
 used but
 well cared for.

 Everything works just as it did when I bought a year ago.
 Here's the kit.

 http://rodc.smugmug.com/photos/1197850635_9HCQo-L.jpg

 Please message me directly if interested.
 Great for commuting.

 Paypal payment.

 Thanks,

 Rod

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts and experiences with 48cm Noodles?

2011-02-22 Thread MichaelH
My experience was just the opposite.  I'm 6'1 and ride a 62 Ram.  I
switched from 46 to 48 and found I preferred the 46.  I think it's
going to be a pretty personal choice. In addition to not feeling quite
right to me, 48 seemed to make the slow speed handling a bit twitchy.
Fortunately used noodles are easy to sell, so it wont be too big a
deal either way.

michael

On Feb 22, 3:48 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm also 6' and not narrow-shouldered, and am running 48cm Noodles on
 my Rambouillet (a 60cm frame).  I really wouldn't want something
 narrower on there.

 I'm currently plotting a Bomba, tryin' to decide what to do... would
 be tempted to go w/ bigger Noodles if they had any bigger than 48's,
 or, maybe some drops that splay out...  but I may go w/ a
 Bullmoose still decipherin'

 -L

 On Feb 22, 1:06 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:



  I'm planning on putting together a touring/camping bike this year and
  kicking around the idea of using 48cm Noodle handlebars. I've been
  using the 46s for years now and love them but when touring on them
  there have been times when I found myself wishing they were a tad
  wider, especially when climbing. I'm 6' and broad shouldered. I have a
  feeling the perceived drawbacks to using them are more mental and
  cosmetic. What are folks experiences with using them?

  Last year I sold my Rambouillet frame with the intention of using the
  funds for a Hunqapillar or maybe a Hillborne. I've taken my time in
  trying to make a decision and am starting to lean more towards an LHT.
  Yes, a far lesser bike but very capable and something I'm more
  inclined to feel comfortable locking up around town. I'd probably get
  a 60cm frame with the 26 wheels so with 48cm bars it would certainly
  be an odd looking bike but probably very practical. Who knows though,
  those new pictures of the SH really have the wheels in my head
  spinning. And I do like to support RBW.

  Thanks,
  mike

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[RBW] Re: 650B in switzerland...

2011-02-21 Thread MichaelH
A few years ago I shipped a pair of speed blends to a friend in
Zurich, via USPS. I don't remember the shipping charges as
prohibitive, nor did I pay any taxes.
michael

On Feb 21, 1:58 pm, david dpschrei...@gmail.com wrote:
 i forgot to mention that i'm looking for something on the tougher,
 need-not-be-super light side.  i often ride quite heavily loaded with
 children and groceries.

 On Feb 21, 10:50 am, david dpschrei...@gmail.com wrote:



  i'm having lots of trouble finding a way to get these other than very
  expensive shipping plus customs from rivendell.  i can have something
  from Schwalbe ordered, but they don't deliver that size to switzerland
  so even that has to go through germany and takes 4 weeks.

  if anyone has experience please let me know!

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[RBW] Re: On shipping bike parts to our two finest states

2011-02-18 Thread MichaelH
For those of us who live in rural areas, USPS is always the fastest 
most reliable way to go.

However, many years ago (pre internet) my son did his senior year of
hi school in Thailand and I spent over $100 just shipping him college
catalogs.

Ian, hope you're in Hawaii!
michael

On Feb 18, 3:29 pm, Ian Dickson iandicks...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've been meaning to say this for a while--not picking on, say, Dave
 Hallerman specifically.  When I see someone specify shipping to
 CONUS, I usually don't get in touch with them even if I want the
 item.  For small things like derailleurs, cranks, jerseys and such,
 shipping to Alaska and Hawaii by USPS will be the same cost and same
 process as shipping to the continental U.S.  Wheels and maybe even
 handlebars will start to get more expensive. Otherwise, there's no
 good reason to specify CONUS if you're shipping USPS.

 best to all,
 Ian

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[RBW] Re: vests and what not

2011-02-18 Thread MichaelH
She probably thinks it was a lot of work for something the kid will
outgrow in a few months, but consider this.  Last Oct, my grandson
came home from the hospital in the same handmade sweater his mother
and uncle came home in 35+ years ago.  When they are outgrown she can
lend them out and keep them in the grandparent hope chest.

Congratulations and kudos to the knitter.
michael

On Feb 18, 5:09 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On the subject of vests and sweaters:

 My significant other just finished knitting vests for a friend of ours
 who recently had twins.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ejchang/5456485549

 She based the vests on the wooly warm vest, but scaled down, a lot.

 I think she did a nice job and wanted to show them off.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: Everything's Perfect....I'ma touchin NOTHIN!

2011-02-17 Thread MichaelH
It's all about accepting the isness of the present moment.

michael
now if only i could make it be Spring.



 Angus Who dreams of one day getting his other bicycles to this level
 of zen like harmony

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[RBW] Re: A couple of mech questions: chainsuck and a noisy BB

2011-02-16 Thread MichaelH
You will need a caliper.  Pull the pedals off and measure the length
of the spindle. It only matters if you are unhappy with the chain
line.  You can check out Sheldon's web site for a good discussion of
this.

Of course, the other possibility here is that the first law mechanics
has been violated.  Never try fix anything on a bad hair day.  I
have violated this law many times and have always been caught and
punished for it.

michael,
Westford Vt, where despite the promise of warmer weather it is -10
this morning.

On Feb 16, 5:35 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:
 James: Thanks for that info!

 Gernot: How interesting.. I just checked my Riv invoice and it lists a
 107mm Tange Super BB. Not that I know what that means, but it reads on
 Riv's site that all Riv bikes should use 113 mm except the Atlantis
 that uses 107 mm.
 Whether I really have a 107 or that's just what it says on the receipt
 - I don't know. How do I find out? And would it matter?

 On Feb 16, 1:30 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:



  I have the same size Hillborne (but earlier Taiwan version) with the
  same crank (Sugino XD-2), same chain (SRAM 9 speed), older generation
  but NOS low normal XT derailer (but different front derailer, though I
  can't see how that would matter), and have no issues with chain suck
  (okay, 2 or 3 instances in 1.5 yrs, probably with dirty chain). I also
  run a 9 sp Shimano cassette on a 9 sp Shimano hub, versus Paul's 7 sp
  Shimano freewheel on Phil hub, but can't see how that would matter.

  How about BB spindle length? It's a long shot, but if the spindle is
  too long, I could see that contributing.

  Gernot

  On Feb 16, 7:19 am, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

   Paul:

Matt: Yes, perhaps I should try an 8spd chain. They have bigger spaces
than 9 spd don't they?

   Check out the Harris / Sheldon website for general chain info but IIRC
   9 speed is narrower.  I always buy ones marked 6/7/8 speed for my 8
   speed.  I generally buy whatever is on sale for around $20  get
   several.  Here in SoCal using wax for lube I get a year out of a
   chain.  It's about as chain friendly an environment as possible (dry,
   the whole place is paved over).

   You mention chain suck when climbing; that's odd.  Maybe climbing in
   the granny  middle of the cluster, with not much chain tension?  Hit
   a bump or something?  Just a thought.

   If chains are that pricey, have Kip pick up a batch when he's here
   next time.  That doesn't do you any good today but for future.  If Kip
Gernot have no problems  you're the only 9 speed user, that could
   be a clue.

   dougP

   On Feb 15, 2:52 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for all your replies.

Seth: Just checked, its not the rails.

Patrick: Think I read on EcoVelo to use that paraffin/beeswax ratio.
It worked really well when the chain was still clean, chain ran more
silent than when new.

Matt: Yes, perhaps I should try an 8spd chain. They have bigger spaces
than 9 spd don't they? I think Wipperman's are available here, but for
a hefty price (like 1500 thb - 48 USD). I have been a veg oil user
myself on my other bikes, it was great when I lived in wetter
Singapore. The Riv was the first bike to get chronic chain suck and so
I thought I'd try wax since the climate is dry and super dusty this
time of year in Thailand.

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[RBW] Re: A couple of mech questions: chainsuck and a noisy BB

2011-02-16 Thread MichaelH
Do you have the stock Sugino rings?  I originally used the Sugino
triple (on a Rambouillet), but had replaced the rings with Shimano.  I
had a fair amount of chain suck between the big and middle ring.  I
added a very small spacer behind the middle ring and that solved the
problem.  It did however make reassembly after cleaning a pain; along
with the dopey hidden bolt thing.  I switched to DaVinci (really White
Ind) on my touring/commuting bike and like them much better.  Then I
went to a 44/30 on a White dbl on the Rambouillet.
michael

On Feb 16, 11:37 am, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Paul:

 I'm not betting on the spindle length.  IME it's not critical.  My
 Atlantis came with a 116, which I replaced with a 110 when the
 original died.  The Atlantis chainstays really stick out there, and
 the 110 leaves only about 2 mm gap between the middle ring  the
 chainstay.  So you should be OK with a 107 on your bike.

 The FD shouldn't matter.  I think a lot of labeling stuff 9speed or
 10speed is marketing.

 Sounds like the big difference between your bike  Gernot's is he's
 got all 9 speed  you've got a mix.  Check out Sheldon's website for
 the details but there may be a difference in chainring thickness
 between 6/7/8 and 9 speed.  Cogs are thinner on higher count cogsets.

 Under what conditions do you experience chainsuck?  Big ring to
 middle, granny, rear shifts?  Bumpy conditions?  Does the chain get
 hung up between 2 rings?

 dougP

 On Feb 16, 2:35 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:



  James: Thanks for that info!

  Gernot: How interesting.. I just checked my Riv invoice and it lists a
  107mm Tange Super BB. Not that I know what that means, but it reads on
  Riv's site that all Riv bikes should use 113 mm except the Atlantis
  that uses 107 mm.
  Whether I really have a 107 or that's just what it says on the receipt
  - I don't know. How do I find out? And would it matter?

  On Feb 16, 1:30 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

   I have the same size Hillborne (but earlier Taiwan version) with the
   same crank (Sugino XD-2), same chain (SRAM 9 speed), older generation
   but NOS low normal XT derailer (but different front derailer, though I
   can't see how that would matter), and have no issues with chain suck
   (okay, 2 or 3 instances in 1.5 yrs, probably with dirty chain). I also
   run a 9 sp Shimano cassette on a 9 sp Shimano hub, versus Paul's 7 sp
   Shimano freewheel on Phil hub, but can't see how that would matter.

   How about BB spindle length? It's a long shot, but if the spindle is
   too long, I could see that contributing.

   Gernot

   On Feb 16, 7:19 am, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

Paul:

 Matt: Yes, perhaps I should try an 8spd chain. They have bigger spaces
 than 9 spd don't they?

Check out the Harris / Sheldon website for general chain info but IIRC
9 speed is narrower.  I always buy ones marked 6/7/8 speed for my 8
speed.  I generally buy whatever is on sale for around $20  get
several.  Here in SoCal using wax for lube I get a year out of a
chain.  It's about as chain friendly an environment as possible (dry,
the whole place is paved over).

You mention chain suck when climbing; that's odd.  Maybe climbing in
the granny  middle of the cluster, with not much chain tension?  Hit
a bump or something?  Just a thought.

If chains are that pricey, have Kip pick up a batch when he's here
next time.  That doesn't do you any good today but for future.  If Kip
 Gernot have no problems  you're the only 9 speed user, that could
be a clue.

dougP

On Feb 15, 2:52 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks for all your replies.

 Seth: Just checked, its not the rails.

 Patrick: Think I read on EcoVelo to use that paraffin/beeswax ratio.
 It worked really well when the chain was still clean, chain ran more
 silent than when new.

 Matt: Yes, perhaps I should try an 8spd chain. They have bigger spaces
 than 9 spd don't they? I think Wipperman's are available here, but for
 a hefty price (like 1500 thb - 48 USD). I have been a veg oil user
 myself on my other bikes, it was great when I lived in wetter
 Singapore. The Riv was the first bike to get chronic chain suck and so
 I thought I'd try wax since the climate is dry and super dusty this
 time of year in Thailand.- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: A couple of mech questions: chainsuck and a noisy BB

2011-02-15 Thread MichaelH
I too have had poor performance from Sram chains, lots of jumping and
skipping.  Wippermans Conex are consistently the best chains I have
ever used.  If youchange chains and the problem doesn't go away you
wont have lost anything; you'll just have a chain in inventory.

michael

On Feb 15, 6:39 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey Paul,

 One more thing that just occured to me to check (you may have already
 done this) is that the rear derailer springs are working/keeping good
 tension on the chain.

 Dang, I didn't realize that Wippermans were that expensive over
 there.   They're not that cheap here either... they're like $25,
 whereas you can get a KMC for about $15.   Definitely reserve the
 purchase of a different chain as a 'last resort'.

 -Matt

 On Feb 15, 5:52 am, Paul Yeoh rawfoodcuis...@gmail.com wrote:



  Thanks for all your replies.

  Seth: Just checked, its not the rails.

  Patrick: Think I read on EcoVelo to use that paraffin/beeswax ratio.
  It worked really well when the chain was still clean, chain ran more
  silent than when new.

  Matt: Yes, perhaps I should try an 8spd chain. They have bigger spaces
  than 9 spd don't they? I think Wipperman's are available here, but for
  a hefty price (like 1500 thb - 48 USD). I have been a veg oil user
  myself on my other bikes, it was great when I lived in wetter
  Singapore. The Riv was the first bike to get chronic chain suck and so
  I thought I'd try wax since the climate is dry and super dusty this
  time of year in Thailand.

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[RBW] Re: Don't tell me that a few lbs don't make a bloody difference!

2011-02-15 Thread MichaelH
OMG, not the dreaded weight topic!  Of course weight matters when you
riding up hill, carrying a bike up a flight of stairs, or putting it
on a roof rack.  The laws of physics are not negotiable.  Our
objective is not necessarily MPH, but JPM - Joy Per Mile.  Sometimes
lighter weight can add to JPM and sometimes it doesn't matter at all.
michael

On Feb 15, 3:41 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I just got back from a nice if brief-ish 1 hour ride on the '99 Riv
 gofast, newly equipped with pretty Phil front hub (I have decided not
 to replace the computer -- just yet, anyway, but I guesstimate that I
 covered, easily, 23 miles over rolling, mostly suburban terrain).
 Anyway, I deliberately went out of my way to climb some steepish, 1/2
 mile long hills, mostly standing in the 75 gear, and blow me down, if
 I sped up those hills like ... like  like ... Oh! Like Bartali,
 shifting into a *higher* gear at the bottom of a steep climb, turning
 with a sneer and glare at his competition, and leaving them in his
 dust. Sortof.

 Anyway, the difference between this gofast that, now, without a
 computer, weighs a featherlite 17 3/4 lb, and the almost identical but
 built as a commuter '03, is about 5 lb, and I certainly can tell the
 difference on the hills.

 Just so you know.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

2011-02-14 Thread MichaelH
Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
and a nice Saris hitch rack?

michael

On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP thefamil...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
 and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
 like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
 difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
 ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
 To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
 very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
 the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
 give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
 Ramboulet or... What do you think?

 I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
 around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
 wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
 some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
 enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
 head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
 pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
 I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
 scenery and being outside alone with nature.

 Any thoughts?

 best,

 JimP

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet: TA, White Ind, Phil, Honjo.... more.

2011-02-14 Thread MichaelH
Wow, very pretty bike.  If it were either a 52 or a 62, I would snap
it up, even though I already own a blue Rambouillet!  How'd you get
the fenders so shiny, I clean my once a year, but they never look like
new anymore, or were they new when you tok the pics?

Somebodies gonna get a hellofa nice ride  a good lucking one too.

michael

On Feb 14, 9:37 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Rambouillet, size 56, complete bicycle minus pedals and saddle.
 $1700 (price includes the cost of professional packing and shipping in
 the continental US)

 I will be sad to see this bicycle go.  The orange Rambouillet paint is
 dazzling.  There are many nice components in the deal - see list
 below.  It rides terrifically.
 I'm the second owner of the frame, brakes and stem, but all other
 components were new (or NOS) in late 2009 and have 2000 miles on them.
 The tires and brake/shifter cables have a few hundred miles only.
 Saddle and pedals are NOT included.

 I am very pleased with the condition of this bicycle.   There are a
 scratches on the fender/rack eyelets from normal use.  I see two other
 scratches on the frame (near the right side shifter, non-drive side
 chainstay); I tried to document these scratches in the photo set.  The
 back edge of the rear fender has a scratch too that was hard to
 photograph, sorry.  There no dents or rust on the frame.

 Pictureshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/27988383@N06/sets/72157626028650710/

 TA Pro 5 Vis Cranks with 46/30 chainrings  TA dustcaps
 Phil Wood 119mm bottom bracket
 Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur
 Silver downtube shifters
 XTR rear derailleur, med cage, low normal
 13-30 9 speed Shimano cassette (Harris Cyclery - Century Special)
 Mavic Open Pro rims, White Industries hubs MI5 rear (135 mm) 32 hole,
 H2 front 32 hole - built by Peter White Cycles
 Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 tires (about 29mm wide)
 no-name titanium allen-head skewers
 Honjo 41mm round, smooth aluminum fenders
 Sheldon fender nuts
 Nitto Pearl stem 10cm
 Nitto Soba 44cm handlebars
 Cane Creek SCR-5 brake levers
 Fizik bar tape
 Tektro 521A brakes
 Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost - cut several cm's from its original
 30cm length.
 9 speed chain (brand?)
 tubes and rim tape - yep, got those too.

 Payment via PayPal.

 You can email me at steve...@gmail.com.

 Thanks for looking,

 Steve

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[RBW] Re: Another Rivendell... which one?

2011-02-14 Thread MichaelH
I have a 10.5 lb mini dachsund.  I'm guessing your dogs are a tad
larger.
michael

On Feb 14, 11:41 am, Jim Phillips thefamil...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hard to explain but we take 5 dogs and luggage including astronomy gear. I 
 just prefer to have a second bike and not carry one back and forth. Perhaps 
 just an excuse.

 JimP

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:26 AM, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:



  Pardon me, but could you help me understand why the bike wouldn't fit
  on a hitch or roof rack?  Maybe all you need is a second set of wheels
  and a nice Saris hitch rack?

  michael

  On Feb 13, 10:41 am, JimP thefamil...@gmail.com wrote:
  I have  a Sam Hillborne which I love, I ordered it with a 56 cm frame
  and, as it turns out, I should have ordered the 54. Even so, it rides
  like a dream. I have a farm located about 200 miles from home. It is
  difficult to carry the bike back and forth without taking two cars so,
  ahem... I have an excuse to buy another Rivendell. :^)
  To be honest I really want an A. Homer Hilson but I do realize it is
  very similar (functionally identical) to the Hillborne. That's OK as
  the two bikes will be at different locations but I should at least
  give thought to another type Rivendell, maybe an Atlantis, a Rodeo,
  Ramboulet or... What do you think?

  I am 60 yo and have really just gotten into cycling. At home I ride
  around the city just absorbing the beauty of being outdoors in a
  wonderful old city. I take a camera sometimes and like photographing
  some of the beauty (including bike) around me. But, mostly I just
  enjoy the ride. I usually ride for about 40 minutes to an hour and
  head back home. At the Farm I have access to about 3000 acres of
  pastures and hardwood forests with horse trails and, no trails at all.
  I want to explore this area with my bike again, just enjoying the
  scenery and being outside alone with nature.

  Any thoughts?

  best,

  JimP

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[RBW] Re: Contest!

2011-02-12 Thread MichaelH
a corker of an idea!
michael

On Feb 11, 10:36 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Send a postcard?  Here's my first creative idea:  How about save a
 postcard, and send an email???  Maybe???

 On Feb 11, 10:13 pm, Bill Gibson bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote:



  Postcards Only! Get Creative! Demand pix of creative
  postcards!http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/327

  Grant has posted a request for submissions of ideas for the use of cork on
  the bike. His comments rule out the low-hangin' fruit. Now to business...
  --
  Bill Gibson
  Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Re: 65cm A Homer Hilsen PICS

2011-02-09 Thread MichaelH
Thanks for the posting, Dave.  I always welcome an opportunity to ogle
good bike porn.
michael

On Feb 9, 4:29 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 Hi, Folks

 I finally got around to posting pics of my Hilsen. This bike replaced
 the 64cm Atlantis I sold to another list member. I took some of the
 ideas I liked about the set up on the Atlantis and I used those parts
 on the Hilsen:

 Indexed 9 speed Shimano Dura-ace DT shifters
 Ultegra front and rear derailleurs
 12-28 rear gearing
 48/36/26 Sugino Crankset
 Maroon Cloth HB Tape
 Acorn Bag
 Brown Hooded Cane Creek levers
 VO pedals with Power Grips
 Jack Brown Tires

 It's pretty much perfect for the mountainous road rides around here.
 As I get the cash together, I'll probably switch out the wheels for
 something with a little more bling than the functional XT hubs and
 Salsa Delgado Cross 32h rims.

 Here's the link:http://www.flickr.com/photos/45341162@N04/

 Dave

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Comments: Mark's Bar vs. Noodle Bar

2011-02-09 Thread MichaelH
I have the same Cinelli bar, which hasn't been used in a few years,
but I just reinstalled it on my Trek 626.  My impression is much like
Patricks.  I ride at the back of the drops a lot and that bar is quite
good for that.  On the other hand they feel tight when I move my
largish hands into the hook.  But all in all a pretty good bar, but
there is a reason so many of us have migrated over to noodles.  Most
comfortable for long rides.

michael

On Feb 8, 10:20 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I can't speak about the Noodle, but the Mark's IIRC is very like the old
 Nitto 185 which in turn is like the old Cinelli model whose # I forget:
 medium drop (140 or 145 mm), very short reach (90, IIRC), very short ramps.
 I use the 185s on 3 bikes and like them a lot, tho' I might switch to even
 shallower (135 mm drop) but longer (115?) old Maes copies that BQ now sells.
 The downside of the 185s, for me, is that, if you have the ends parallel to
 terra firma, as God commanded, then the ramps are rather steep. I think the
 Maeses have a tighter curve so that, with hooks level to earth, the ramps
 are still  flattish and, at any rate, longer.

 On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 6:44 PM, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
  Seeking comments and preferences Mark's bar against a Nitto Noodle
  bar.

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 --
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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Touring Cantilevers plus extra

2011-02-07 Thread MichaelH
As much as I love Paul's brakes, I don't have any need right now.  Can
you send us a link to the Campy stuff, probably my stupidity but I
couldn't find one one the ebay page.
michael

On Feb 7, 1:46 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I gave the Bunch first crack at these Paul brakes a couple months
 back.  Now I've got them up on eBay, starting bid of $1.  Have a look
 if you are interested.  A set of black anodized Paul Touring
 Cantilevers.  Also a Paul Brake Booster.  Lots of Campy Chorus stuff,
 too, but that stuff probably won't get much play in this crowd.
 Actually I have lots of auctions going, and it's all bike stuff.  Have
 a look if you like.  This marks the complete de-Brifterization of my
 garage.

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=260734017380ssPag...

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread MichaelH
There is a difference between 26 and 700C wheels and a difference
between box and V shaped rims.  A 26 wheel will always be stronger
than a 700c wheel with the same # of spokes and equal wheel building
skill.  A V shaped rim will always be stronger than a box rim of
similar metal.  A 700C, 36 spoke rim  typical box rim would not be
strong enough to tour on a tandem, but a 26 wheel with 36 spokes and
a sturdy V shaped rim is strong enough to support the 400 lbs that two
riders, and a 40+lb touring bike create.  Similarly, a 1.6 (38 mm)
tire can provide a comfortable ride with little fear of pinch flats
for such a load on almost all road surfaces ( off road is another
issue all together.)

So if you are touring with a heavy load on 700C rims, then 40 or 48
spoke wheels are probably a good idea; but on 26 wheels, it is an
expensive overkill.  Of course no one can ever guarantee that you will
never have a flat, break a spoke, or dent a rim.  That's why it's
called adventure cycling.

Several years ago I rode with a group of 10 across the Cumberland Gap
- 185 miles from Cumberland to DC ( with a great ending dinner at
Copi's Organic in DC)  Eight people rode mountain bikes with 26
wheels and 2+ tires and two of us rode 700c x 38.  There were two
flats along the way, both in heavy 2+ tires.  Go figure.  Since it
rained for two days we also learned that the 38s actually did just as
well in the mud as to 50s.  Also the other 9 riders learned why
bicycles should have fenders.  They were astonished that i wasn't
covered in mud!  I got up very early one morning and cleaned all their
bikes and re-lubed their chains.

michael



On Feb 4, 3:33 pm, SISDDWG dgen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Some think 40 and 48 holes are excessive for loaded touring. Indeed,
 many have crossed the country with 36 holes. Also, many get along
 without health insurance. I crossed the U.S.A. with 40 front and 48
 rear and never gave the wheels a thought. I knew that if one or even
 two spokes broke I had insurance, 39 or 47 spokes remaining. I believe
 that the wheels would still be reasonable true.

 On Jan 28, 1:07 pm, Gary g...@worldcyclotour.com wrote:



  I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
  feedback. The wheels will be 26, used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4,
  bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
  maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.

  24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
  minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?

  What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
  (pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.

  What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.

  I'm needing to pick my poison.

  Thanks,

  Gary

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[RBW] Re: Pasela sidewall failure: Damage or manufacturing defect?

2011-02-04 Thread MichaelH
This confirms my experience.  I have had great luck with some pasellas
and not so much with other.  The side walls on the Tserve are much
more reliable.  I have wondered if ultraviolet exposure effects the
roly-poly, speedblend, and pasella side walls?

michael

On Feb 3, 9:38 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've had that problem with multiple Pasela tires. I've had better luck
 with T-Serves. I'm pretty much all about Schwalbe tires now. I'm not
 sure what tire I'll use for randonneuring this year, I imagine T-
 Serves which, in spite of being heavier seem to hold up better. I got
 a big sidewall tear in a T-Serve but that was after a year and a half
 of pretty heavy use. The tear also seemed to be initiated by something
 environmental as opposed to just coming apart.

 I feel like there's never much talk about Continental tires. I used
 some Conti Contacts years ago and they seemed to be pretty nice
 although did not run true to size. I had tires marked 37 that seemed
 more like 33 or so.

 --mike

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[RBW] Re: When is a tire too big?

2011-01-28 Thread MichaelH
I would second (or third) the views of Patrick and Angus.  I live in a
town with no paved roads, so I do a lot of dirt road riding, and
almost every ride begins and ends with 2+ miles of dirt.  However, I
have never felt the need for really big tires.  The biggest I am
running are 38 Avocet Cross Tires, which measure out to 35 and have an
inverted tread, so aren't too bad on pavement, and are great on dirt
and even packed snow.  But when I'm out on a long ride on pavement I
want something faster and lighter, so typically run 26-28 on my
Rambouillet, but am currently running 23mm Continental Grand Prix ( a
gift from my son). They feel very lively and haven't flatted once in
the first 500 miles or so, and that was actually on the dirt road
heading out from my home.

michael

On Jan 27, 11:30 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:
 Much is said about Rivs taking big tires, those advanced, low rolling
 resistance, low pressure tires that absorb shocks, stop flats, survive
 long tours across the tundra, and eliminate potentially hazardous
 resonances in areas of lipid storage.  But when do you get too much of
 a good thing and your king of the road turns into a beach cruiser?
 Aside from Riv gatherings where riders compare tire widths, when is
 bigger not better?

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-28 Thread MichaelH
I must say that the variety of attitudes toward products made in the
USA which get expressed on this site very often leave me scratching my
head.  Some people who fall all over themselves praising MUSA clothes,
regularly diss and compare excellent US bike products to cheaper
Tiawnese.  About the only producer who escapes this is Phil Wood.

The primary reason for buying local is the contribution to building a
sense of community.  I live in a rural state and have the opportunity
to source a very high proportion of my food, some of my clothing and
my grandsons toys from people in this state. These products are
invariably more expensive, but the quality is excellent and they are
my neighbors.

All but one of my bicycle frames were made in Asia, and they are very
good.  However, I try to dress them up with local products - White
hubs  cranks; PW BB, Paul's brakes; Chris King HS.  It's a community
thing; I spend my money here and they pay their taxes here.  One hand
helps the other.

michael,
westford, Vt

On Jan 28, 6:04 am, zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 How so my friend?
 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry



 -Original Message-
 From: Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net

 Sender: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 03:02:19
 To: RBW Owners Bunchrbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

 I think, Robert, that this all depends upon ones perspective.

 Angus

 On Jan 27, 1:45 pm, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
  If they are built here, they are better.  Think about everything bad
  that's associated w/ a Taiwanese made product.

  On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 7:45 AM, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
   Bob,

   I've had two Rivendells (non Atlantis) built by Waterford.  They were
   very well done.

   I've had two Rivendell (one an Atlantis) built by Toyo.  They were
   also very well done.

   I have not been able to detect a difference.

   Angus

   On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:
   How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
   from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
   kickstand plate and range of sizes.

   In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
   builder?

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[RBW] Re: When is a tire too big?

2011-01-28 Thread MichaelH
One - I am a 200 lb rider.

Two - the same dirt road isn't necessarily the same on two different
days.  If they have just been graded they will be soft and sandy; if
they have been driven on for a while they will be pact, but might be
rocky or rutted; if it's been dry and hot they will get corrugated and
awful; if it raining or its thawing they will be muddy.  If its
snowing they could be hard packed and firm or soft and slippery.  When
you ride out in the morning, don't be surprised if the road feels
quite different in the evening.

Three -  I'm only sharing my own experiences of living with dirt roads
for the past 20 years.

michael



On Jan 28, 8:27 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Fri, 2011-01-28 at 05:11 -0800, MichaelH wrote:
  I would second (or third) the views of Patrick and Angus.  I live in a
  town with no paved roads, so I do a lot of dirt road riding, and
  almost every ride begins and ends with 2+ miles of dirt.  However, I
  have never felt the need for really big tires.  The biggest I am
  running are 38 Avocet Cross Tires, which measure out to 35 and have an
  inverted tread, so aren't too bad on pavement, and are great on dirt
  and even packed snow.  But when I'm out on a long ride on pavement I
  want something faster and lighter, so typically run 26-28 on my
  Rambouillet, but am currently running 23mm Continental Grand Prix ( a
  gift from my son). They feel very lively and haven't flatted once in
  the first 500 miles or so, and that was actually on the dirt road
  heading out from my home.

 Two qualifications:

 1.  All dirt roads aren't the same.  Some are soft and sandy, some are
 littered with ruts and large rocks, some are hard-packed gravel.   What
 works on one surface may not work on another.

 2.  Weight matters.  A tire that may glide on top of the gravel for a
 100 lb person may sink in under the weight of 200 lb of rider.

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-01-28 Thread MichaelH
For what it's worth, last season we outfitted a our touring tandem
with the DaVinci V23 rim in 26 and put Marathon Racers 1.6 tires on
it.  The team weighs about 340 lbs( and the bike weighs about 40) and
more than half our riding has been on dirt roads, no single track.
Very strong rims, especially in 26. I don't think you need 40 holes
on a 26 rim, 36 will do fine.  These are V shaped 23 mm wide.
Here's the link:
http://www.davincitandems.com/comp.html

There build prices are very reasonable.  No flats last season on the
Marathon Racers, either.

michael

On Jan 28, 4:07 pm, Gary g...@worldcyclotour.com wrote:
 I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
 feedback. The wheels will be 26, used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4,
 bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
 maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.

 24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
 minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?

 What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
 (pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.

 What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.

 I'm needing to pick my poison.

 Thanks,

 Gary

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[RBW] Re: My Roadeo on the Velo Cult blog

2011-01-26 Thread MichaelH
Very nice bike, Chris.  I love the color.  You will love the Paul's
breaks, easy set up, great control.  I liked them so much on my tandem
that I bought a set for my Rambouillet.  Two questions.  I see that
the front fender stay is nearly horizontal.  I installed the same
fluted Honjos on my Ram that way and got considerable TCO.  I moved
the stay down a couple of inches and solved about 90% of that.  What's
your experience with TCO on the fendered Rodeo?  Also, what's the
crank  ring set up?

For a while I made all my bikes a  black free zone, then a Shimano
free zone (after quite a few negative experiences) but now I take a
more judicious approach.  I love my White cranks, black and all; and I
have to say my new Ultegra RD 6700 is the best shifting derailler I
have used in 30+ years of riding.

Anyway, enjoy the ride.  I love my Ram as much today as I did when I
bought it - six or seven years ago.  Wish the same for you.

michael

On Jan 25, 7:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Thanks to Sky, Tom, Anthony, and the rest of the Velo Cult team for
 their amazing service as San Diego County's premier bike shop which
 caters to everybody except the mainstream - which means we fit right
 in! Today they have featured two of my Rough Riding bikes, and their
 recent work on them, on their blog:

 http://www.velocult.com/blog/post/raleigh_competition_rivendell_roadeo

 Click on over to their always fascinating blog which is always VERY
 well illustrated with incredible photography. Today their blog
 features my 1983 Raleigh Competition, which Tom outfitted with a 3-
 Speed Fixed Wheel set-up, and my 2010 Rivendell Roadeo, on which Sky
 installed hammer Honjo fenders and Challenge Paris-Roubaix 700x29
 tyres. They do superb work and are great people. And don't my bikes
 look as awesome as they ride??? (I'll be riding that Roadeo in a 300km
 brevet this Saturday, from Moorpark to Santa Barbara and back.)

 Velo Cult is located in the South Park area of San Diego, just a bit
 south of University Avenue and west of the 805, in a really neat
 neighborhood with a great restaurant next door (Whistle Stop Bar) and
 a classic coffee shop (Rebecca's) on the corner. Velo Cult often show
 films or have other social events at their shop in the evenings,. They
 are a driving force behind the San Diego Tweed Ride and they also
 created the San Diego Bike Commuter online forum and the
 SDBikeCommuter.com Discount Program through which local merchants give
 discounts to customers who arrive by bicycle.

 Related links:http://www.sdbikecommuter.com/
 andhttp://www.sdbikecommuter.com/find_businesses/

 - Chris Kostman
 La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com

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[RBW] Re: Different weather for different folks

2011-01-21 Thread MichaelH
Nice bike.  I like the simplicity.  I found indexed shifting doesn't
hold up in NE winters.  But as soon as the road temps warm enough to
produce slush I couldn't imagine riding without fenders.  I love my
Bilenky coupled tandem and have been thinking about getting a single
retrofitted.

Mostly in the winter I focus on yoga and snow shoeing, since I'm way
out in the boonies.  I keep thinking about buying a set of studded
tires, but then I turn on the weather report and see that the
overnight lows will be -25 and the daytime hi around zero and I think,
maybe not right now.

michael
Westford, VT (and don't bother looking for it on a map, you wont find
it!)

On Jan 20, 7:27 pm, Abcyclehank hankinso...@me.com wrote:
 Fair weather riders-
 Here are a few pictures of my winter ride, 66cm Bilenky with S  S
 couplers, outfitted with studded tires for traction on icy roads and
 bike paths. Only a short 7 mile ride outside after snow blowing drive
 for 45 minutes early afternoon.  Cold weather will push me inside on
 the trainer the next few day highs expected in single digits with wind
 chills in the negative teens.  Still love all the seasons but enjoy
 cycling more in the fall and summer along West Michigan roadways.

 Ryan

 http://gallery.me.com/hankinson10/100248/DSC06139.http://gallery.me.com/hankinson10/100248/DSC06141.http://gallery.me.com/hankinson10/100248/DSC06142.

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[RBW] Re: Oh snap! Now you can buy the ultimate crankset!

2011-01-21 Thread MichaelH
The White Industry crank  BB is $100 less, a 100 grams less, far more
versitle, better looking, and made in the USA to boot.
michael

On Jan 21, 3:05 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 The only concern I would have with that combination is the lack of a
 real low gear. There are climbs I do, especially on dirt roads, that
 something like a 24-28 or 30 is far easier to maintain for a 30 min.
 duration then would be a 30-28.  On shorter climbs you can get out of
 the saddle to help and most paved roads are designed and built with
 reasonable grades.

 I wish there were some curently available cranks in the 94bcd, it
 seems to me the perfect design for a compact double without all the
 extra bolts of the TA.

 ~Mike

 On Jan 21, 11:11 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:



  I'm running a 44/30 on a 94mm bolt circle with an 11-28 9 speed
  cassette and it's spectacular.  I can cruise easily at 20kph in the
  middle of the cogset on the 30.  I can cruise quickly at 20mph in the
  middle of the cogset on the 44.  My highest gear is a 44-11 and I can
  spin that out on a decent and be right at 40mph, beyond which I always
  have been happy to coast.  I'm going to try 46/29 sometime (I already
  have the rings), but so far so good.  With a double, the chainline
  allows all 18 combinations to be used, although I still avoid the two
  extreme crosschain combinations (44-28 and 30-11).  16 totally usable
  gears with basically zero overlaps.  Furthermore, with the Campy
  compact double front der that Riv sells, my setup miraculously is 99%
  trim free.  It's great treating your front shifting like a switch,
  instead of gently trying to hit the middle (and, yes, I have a number
  of bikes with a triple.  I know how to shift a triple).  On a bike
  that won't be heavily loaded, I think having 16 usable and well-spaced
  gears between 28 and 104 gear inches is plenty.

  On Jan 21, 7:24 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:

   For some reason I still prefer triples. On a long sustained climb in
   the mountains I find I fatigue less easily if I spin at a certain
   cadence and force.  I also prefer something in the 38-40 tooth range
   for most flatish riding. Coming down long gradual mountians a ring in
   the 48-50 range gives me a nice steady pace.  It also allows a tighter
   frewheel/cassette so it's easier to find a nice combinatioin in every
   terrrain.

   The one thing I need to try is something like a 44-29 to see if the 44
   can meet most conditions. I have been scouring EBAY looking for 94bcd
   cranks so I can cobble something together to try it out.

   And $500+ for a crankset seems crazy to me .

   ~Mike

   On Jan 20, 10:27 pm, rinjin feltov...@gmail.com wrote:

Ah, I see. Well if one of those combinations makes sense for you and
you need to save some grams over the VO setup then I guess this makes
a certain kind of sense. For a light-ish road bike I'm pretty happy
with my 50-34 setup.

Brian

On Jan 20, 10:07 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

 The cool thing about the 801 is that it has 74 BCD holes as far out as
 where the inner chainring sits (I 
 think):http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm
 (A little hard to tell from the website, but if you look at the left-
 most bolt hole in the third photo you can see that a 74 BCD ring would
 replace the inner ring; i.e. this is not a triple.)

 So you can replace the inner 110 BCD ring with a 74 BCD ring and run a
 wide range double with an inner ring down to 24 teeth. A pretty cool
 idea, and if they make an XD2/XD600 variant like this, I'll buy it in
 a heartbeat. As far as what's available now, I'd rather get the VO TA
 copy; cheaper and prettier IMO.

 Gernot

 On Jan 21, 11:37 am, rinjin feltov...@gmail.com wrote:

  I don't mind the looks so much, but the price seems a little high. 
  Is
  there an advantage over a Campy 10s crankset, either Veloce or
  Centaur, with PowerTorque? Like this:http://tinyurl.com/4logk38. And
  about $300 cheaper. What am I missing? Low Q factor?

  Brian
  Park City

  On Jan 20, 2:40 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  http://store.somafab.com/suoxcoplrocr.html

   Soma Fab actually has the Sugino OX801D in stock.  Crankset and 
   BB for
   a whopping $529.  Way too expensive for many of us, and too
   spaceshippy looking for many of us.  That's about what I thought 
   it
   would cost.  Somebody building a totally tricked-out Roadeo 
   should run
   these and show them off.  High-end road bits can still be 
   carbon-free
   if they want to be.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tandem Dreams

2011-01-14 Thread MichaelH
A good rule of thumb for tandem costs... expect to pay 3X the price of
a single bike of equivalent quality.

But they are a heck of a lot of fun and can make or break a
relationship.  My wife and I love our Bilenky Touring Tandem.  In fact
her very nice dressed mid-80's Sequoia is feeling lonely and blue.

Here: http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100076

michael

On Jan 14, 12:27 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Yeah, but then you divide the cost by 2.

 On Jan 13, 2011, at 8:49 PM, Seth Vidal wrote:



  On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 11:46 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com 
  wrote:
  That's the trick, isn't it.

  So - lets see figure a cool $4000+ for the frame/fork. Then add what?
  $600 or more for shipping?

  youch

  -sv

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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicleforhauling your bike?

2011-01-14 Thread MichaelH
Two things to keep in mind here.  First the ego wants wanting more
than it wants having.  That's why as soon as we get what we want, we
start wanting something else.  If that weren't true the entire
consumer driven economy would collapse.

Second, oil industry executives are forecasting gasoline prices of
$5.00 by early 2012.

At the end of Feb I will put our tandem, in 3 pieces, inside the
Prius, along with all our camping equipment, and a roof rack, then
drive from Vermont to New Mexico.  Once there (actually to Big Bend in
west TX) we will put the three parts of the tandem back together and
carry it up on the roof.  To do the same trip in a Jeep or a van would
require about 50 gallons more gas, which cost as much as shipping the
bike back and forth.

 On other long trips, with two bikes outside the car, I have covered
the seats and removed the chains.  The rest is a wash.

As for sexy... you can buy sex, but you can't buy love.

michael



On Jan 14, 7:55 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 You're not infringing, dude.  What you lack in door frame,
 head-smacking height, you make up for with great ideas!

 RGZ



 On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 10:37 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
  sorry if I'm infringing ( I'm only slightly above avg) on your
  subgroup but people say tall bikes can fit upright with front tire off
  in the Mitsubishi Outlander. Avail in 4wd too.

 http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=6519393#poststop

  ~Mike~

  On Jan 13, 6:34 pm, zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
  Can't always ride to the start. I'll have to try the seat-down experiment.
  Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

  -Original Message-
  From: Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com

  Sender: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 18:11:46
  To: RBW Owners Bunchrbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicle
   forhauling your bike?

  Hate to burst your fantasy but a friend has a four door wrangler and
  it was never that easy to get our bikes inside...we're both 6'3,
  riding ~63cm bikes with ~85cm saddle heights and they couldn't fit
  vertically even with front wheel removed.  The Wrangler cabins are
  deceiving short, especially behind the rear seat.  Usual procedure was
  to remove our front wheels, fold down the rear seat, and lay the bikes
  down flat, one on top of the other.   He ended up buying one of the
  thule racks that attaches to the spare tire mount.

  Best way to haul your bike?  Ride there!

  On Jan 13, 5:33 pm, zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
   Well, all true, but also in the Jeeps favor:
   4WD-you probably got the same 30+ we got yesterday.
   Removable tops, doors, so you also have a convertible.
   A certain fun factor too.
   RGZ
   Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

   -Original Message-
   From: MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com

   Sender: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
   Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 17:20:14
   To: RBW Owners Bunchrbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
   Reply-To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
   Subject: [RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicle 
   for
    hauling your bike?

   I drive a 2010 Prius and have no trouble carrying either two full size
   bikes, or our Bilenkey, coupled touring tandem inside the car. Last
   summer we went from Vt to MI and back with the tandem inside our car.
   I have a Saris hitch rack that quickly carries two single bikes or the
   tandem in two parts, on the rack.  My Thule Tandem roof rack, which is
   a rebranded ATOC Carrier,  can carry the tandem, or a single bike,
   with fenders, on the roof.  I have also used a Thule carrier
   (Criterium) that grips the down tube and therefore allows for fenders
   and quick access.  I easily carry a 19 1/2 foot expedition canoe on
   top of my Prius, and the hatchback makes accessing equipment pretty
   easy.

   Last month, I drove up to an outlet and bought a full size, seven foot
   Christmas tree.  The seller was amazed as I quickly tied up the entire
   tree, slid it inside my car and closed the hatchback for the drive
   home.  You can't do that with  an SUV.

   Frankly, an SUV like the Jeep, is the least useful shape for carrying
   cargo, and the van and mini van, while quite useful for many
   applications, are overkill for people who occasionally carry large
   items.

   michael,
   westford, vt.

   On Jan 13, 6:02 pm, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
Here's why I ask?  I'm thinking about some new (4) wheels, and would
like to be able to keep the bike inside at times in the event of rain,
theft-prevention etc.  Thinking of maybe outfitting a Jeep Wrangler w/
a floor-mounted fork mount-just back the bike in, tighten the QR,
slide the wheel in next to it

Anyway, what is everybody else doing?

RGZ

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[RBW] Re: Informal Tall Riders Group: What is the best vehicle for hauling your bike?

2011-01-13 Thread MichaelH
I drive a 2010 Prius and have no trouble carrying either two full size
bikes, or our Bilenkey, coupled touring tandem inside the car. Last
summer we went from Vt to MI and back with the tandem inside our car.
I have a Saris hitch rack that quickly carries two single bikes or the
tandem in two parts, on the rack.  My Thule Tandem roof rack, which is
a rebranded ATOC Carrier,  can carry the tandem, or a single bike,
with fenders, on the roof.  I have also used a Thule carrier
(Criterium) that grips the down tube and therefore allows for fenders
and quick access.  I easily carry a 19 1/2 foot expedition canoe on
top of my Prius, and the hatchback makes accessing equipment pretty
easy.

Last month, I drove up to an outlet and bought a full size, seven foot
Christmas tree.  The seller was amazed as I quickly tied up the entire
tree, slid it inside my car and closed the hatchback for the drive
home.  You can't do that with  an SUV.

Frankly, an SUV like the Jeep, is the least useful shape for carrying
cargo, and the van and mini van, while quite useful for many
applications, are overkill for people who occasionally carry large
items.

michael,
westford, vt.


On Jan 13, 6:02 pm, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's why I ask?  I'm thinking about some new (4) wheels, and would
 like to be able to keep the bike inside at times in the event of rain,
 theft-prevention etc.  Thinking of maybe outfitting a Jeep Wrangler w/
 a floor-mounted fork mount-just back the bike in, tighten the QR,
 slide the wheel in next to it

 Anyway, what is everybody else doing?

 RGZ

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Mexico

2011-01-09 Thread MichaelH
She seems to be coming around, but I think we will plan this to hit
Big Bend around 3/1 and NM a few days later.  That sounds a little
safer.  The National Park Service web site says the park gets crowded
in March, which makes me hope I can hit a space with higher temps and
lower traffic.
Right now I have to go remove a half foot of snow, from something the
weather report called flurries.

Thanks for everyones feedback.

michael

On Jan 8, 9:48 pm, tarik saleh tariksa...@gmail.com wrote:
  I composed almost all  of this before I saw you were planning on
 going south, but go back and read the last paragraph and the parts
 about the wind.  I figure people would enjoy the link to the bob ride
 a few years back too.

 If you get north of Albuquerque, you get really high really quick, I
 live in los alamos at 7200 feet and I usually take my studded tires
 off on Tax Day.  Santa fe is also at 7000 feet. Just to give you an
 idea of what can go wrong. Here is the Santa Fe Mtb race in early May
 2010:http://www.flickr.com/photos/targetsalad/4571133393/
 Not in the mountains mind you, that is probably a touch lower than
 7000 feet just outside of the city proper.

 Now often you can get some nice spring road biking as the sun keeps
 things warm. Nights can be rough. Santa Fe and Los Alamos date of last
 frost is usually 6/1 or so depending on exactly where you are.

 However, as patrick said, usually winter gives way to wind. Here are
 some photos of an ill advised bob-ride in Albuquerque on 3/16/2008:

 http://tsaleh.blogspot.com/2008/03/nm-ibob-ride-in-few-pics-and-video...
 You can see pictures of Patrick  I never flat Moore fixing a flat,
 Ryan Watson and me among other bob /RBW listers.  So it was probably
 reasonably warmish in Albuquerque that day, but check out the movie
 and the  picture of Ryan afterwards. While that was a really windy
 day, it was not atypically windy for spring riding.

 As Ray pointed out there is nice cold skiing at the higher elevations,
 Los Alamos's xc ski area is at 9000 feet or so, but usually by march
 you can road ride in the morning in town (the one good loop road ride
 in town is the bandelier loop which goes from 7800 feet to 6300 feet
 or so) and xc ski up on the mountain in the afternoon.  I believe I
 did an Xc ski race in los alamos the day before the bob-ride linked
 above.

 Anyhow, June and early July are probably good, after that the monsoons
 come with severe thunderstorms. Then again in september, before winter
 comes in october (in higher elevations again)
 I like to say there are months in which you will get snowed on, and
 the rest of the months you will probably get hailed on, so there are
 always challenges riding in the high country.

 Anyhow, plan carefully. Most of NM is above 4000 feet in altitude,
 even all the way to the border with mexico. The local bike racer list
 has fairly regular emails to house cyling tourists that gambled on Feb
 or October being good riding in Albuquerque, Las Cruces and Carlsbad
 and losing.  Silver City and the Gila are also popular areas for
 cycling tourist and hikers to get caught by bad storms on the
 peripheries of winter.

 Good luck and plan well.

 Tarik





  On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 10:43 AM, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
  Actually that's the part of the state that I have toured on two
  occasions for about a month in total.  I was thinking about coming
  across the south - hitting New Orleans  San Antonio before landing in
  Big Bend, then on to Carlsbad, and Las Cruces, before heading back
  north.
  michael

  Latest forecasts for ABQ area, mid 40s high with low 20s low; Las
  Cruces 12-15 F higher.

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 tas at tariksaleh dot com
 in los alamos, po box 208, 87544http://tariksaleh.com
 all sorts of bikes blog:http://tsaleh.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Fender mounted battery powered taillight suggestions?

2011-01-08 Thread MichaelH
I use a Spanninga SPXB  http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spanninga.asp

I also have a pair of cateyes, the T1000 mounted to the back of my
saddle bag and another on the back of the rack.
michael

On Jan 7, 11:01 pm, RoadieRyan ryansub...@gmail.com wrote:
 After commuting home in the dark and rain this evening (Seattle) it
 occurred to me that, even with a nice Princeton-tech swerve n the seat
 stay and modest tail pack and back of helmet tail lights,  a nice
 bright rear fender mounted tail light would not be a bad idea.

 I like the look of the PDW Radbot 1000 but it doesn't specify a fender
 mount option.  Anybody have suggestions on a good battery powered
 fender mounted tail light I can slap on my (metal) fender?

 Thanks

 Ryan

 West Seattle

 PS  Thank goodness for wool on wet nights!  and lil' loafer rain
 covers.

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Mexico

2011-01-07 Thread MichaelH
Actually that's the part of the state that I have toured on two
occasions for about a month in total.  I was thinking about coming
across the south - hitting New Orleans  San Antonio before landing in
Big Bend, then on to Carlsbad, and Las Cruces, before heading back
north.
michael

On Jan 7, 9:58 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Cold and windy, especially north of Albuquerque; I'd guess that you
 want to tour the north central part of the state, Santa Fe, Taos,
 Espanola, Chama, and they are all considerably higher than ABQ's 5K
 feet. I'd not spring this on her suddenly! My own choice would be May
 and June or perhaps September. Mid summer isn't too hot at those
 elevations, but the monsoon comes in July and August.





 On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 7:43 PM, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
  Somehow, a bicycle camping trip to NM in the mid Feb. to March time
  frame doesn't sound like quite the trip compared to Barbados!  It's
  not particularly warm at that time of year, by the way.  (And, yes, I
  did live in New Mexico for many years, it's my home state).  The
  average high and low temperatures in Albuquerque in Feb. - 53/27.  I
  guess that's balmy compared to Vermont!

  Good luck getting your wife on board!

  Jim Cloud

  On Jan 6, 2:30 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
  I just double crossed my wife by backing out of a trip to Barbados.
  As I was about to order the tickets, I couldn't make my finger go down
  and hit the button that put $900 for airfare on my CC.  I realized
  that what I really waned to do was go back to NM.  I've been there
  twice - Albuquerque  north - and never with a bike.

  So I'm trying to talk her into a road trip, camping, riding, visiting
  in the mid Feb. to mid March time frame.  I would welcome some
  feedback from people either in the area or who have ridden there.
  Weather, road conditions, camp sites, etc.

  Thanks,
  michael

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 --
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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Touring New Mexico

2011-01-07 Thread MichaelH
Thanks for the suggestions Jim.  I have a great time camping and
hiking outside of Tucson.  We stayed at a state park but I can't
remember the name of it now.  I don't think I want to drive to Arizona
on this trip, but i do want to look at all these links.
michael


On Jan 7, 2:38 pm, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
 Michael,

 Just as another tour to consider, Southeast Arizona in late February
 to March is just about perfect for weather.  Vermont Bicycle Tours,
 which I'm sure you're familiar with, has a tour itinerary for one of
 their supported tours that could fairly easily be cannibalized for a
 self-supported tour.  Here's a link to the VBT description of their
 tour:  
 http://www.vbt.com/tours/Arizona-Sonoran-Splendor-2011-itinerary_397

 There are a number of decent and relatively inexpensive Bed 
 Breakfast accommodations in Bisbee (home of the great Bisbee Bicycle
 Brothel -http://www.bisbeebicyclebrothel.com/), as well as in the
 Sonoita, Patagonia and Tubac areas.  The tour possibilities in this
 area are pretty unlimited.  If you prefer camping, you can certainly
 find some suitable locations (e.g. Chiricahua National Monument in the
 Chircahua Mtns., Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mtns., numerous
 possibilities in the area around Patagonia).

 Just another possibility to think about.

 Jim Cloud
 Tucson, AZ

 On Jan 7, 10:43 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:



  Actually that's the part of the state that I have toured on two
  occasions for about a month in total.  I was thinking about coming
  across the south - hitting New Orleans  San Antonio before landing in
  Big Bend, then on to Carlsbad, and Las Cruces, before heading back
  north.
  michael

  On Jan 7, 9:58 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

   Cold and windy, especially north of Albuquerque; I'd guess that you
   want to tour the north central part of the state, Santa Fe, Taos,
   Espanola, Chama, and they are all considerably higher than ABQ's 5K
   feet. I'd not spring this on her suddenly! My own choice would be May
   and June or perhaps September. Mid summer isn't too hot at those
   elevations, but the monsoon comes in July and August.

   On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 7:43 PM, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
Somehow, a bicycle camping trip to NM in the mid Feb. to March time
frame doesn't sound like quite the trip compared to Barbados!  It's
not particularly warm at that time of year, by the way.  (And, yes, I
did live in New Mexico for many years, it's my home state).  The
average high and low temperatures in Albuquerque in Feb. - 53/27.  I
guess that's balmy compared to Vermont!

Good luck getting your wife on board!

Jim Cloud

On Jan 6, 2:30 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
I just double crossed my wife by backing out of a trip to Barbados.
As I was about to order the tickets, I couldn't make my finger go down
and hit the button that put $900 for airfare on my CC.  I realized
that what I really waned to do was go back to NM.  I've been there
twice - Albuquerque  north - and never with a bike.

So I'm trying to talk her into a road trip, camping, riding, visiting
in the mid Feb. to mid March time frame.  I would welcome some
feedback from people either in the area or who have ridden there.
Weather, road conditions, camp sites, etc.

Thanks,
michael

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   Albuquerque, NM
   For professional resumes, contact
   Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: AHH Gets A New Old Crank Set, Old Rear Derailleur - Feels Fantastic !

2011-01-06 Thread MichaelH
I'm 6'1 and usually ride with 172.5. or 175, and 170 will feel OK at
first but then my knees will start to hurt.  I agree that it's hard to
imagine such a tiny distance making a difference, but there it is.

Congrats to all the tall guys who have found frames that love them.
Having helped my fairly short daughter buy a new frame a few years ago
I appreciate how hard it is to find a bike that fits if you are
outside of a medium build..  At least with Riv, you can trust them,
even if you can't test ride.  I'm lucky to be just under the upper
limit for most traditional mfg.

michael

On Jan 5, 11:18 pm, Roger rogerdhod...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm about 6'3 and 94 PBH and ride with 170s. I think I only really
 noticed a big difference form 175s when my knees would get sore and I
 was at the top of the stroke. Then the 10mm difference (5 at top, 5 at
 bottom) was a welcome difference.

 On Jan 5, 8:06 pm, amoll68 amol...@comcast.net wrote:



  Not too often does a 6'3 guy feel short, but it happens once in a
  while.

  RE crank length: for me, most of my bikes are 175s, but I've got a
  couple with 170s and I don't notice a huge difference. I mean we're
  only talking about 1/5 of an inch difference. I think I feel, and
  sorta buy the cadence concept - maybe a little easier to spin the
  170s, and more leverage with the 175s. I guess physics and physiology
  dictate that. I'm going to try 180s on my current winter project, and
  I'm looking forward to it. It's a mid-70s road bike built up with
  vintage Campagnolo NR. I'm hoping the 180s will help in the mountains,
  when I'm grunting with the 42-28 low. 180 was the preferred length for
  Eddy (the Cannibal) Merckx in the mountain stages, so it's gotta be
  worth a try.

  Really cool bike - thanks for sharing.

  Alex Moll
  Marysville, WA

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[RBW] Touring New Mexico

2011-01-06 Thread MichaelH
I just double crossed my wife by backing out of a trip to Barbados.
As I was about to order the tickets, I couldn't make my finger go down
and hit the button that put $900 for airfare on my CC.  I realized
that what I really waned to do was go back to NM.  I've been there
twice - Albuquerque  north - and never with a bike.

So I'm trying to talk her into a road trip, camping, riding, visiting
in the mid Feb. to mid March time frame.  I would welcome some
feedback from people either in the area or who have ridden there.
Weather, road conditions, camp sites, etc.

Thanks,
michael

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[RBW] Re: Fizik Handle Bar Wrap and New Lighting Set-up

2011-01-05 Thread MichaelH
I have been using the fazik tape since i first bought my Ram in 2005.
I originally did it in silver but this year redid it in something I
would call gunmetal, although I'm not sure what they call it.  Anyway,
it looks great and wears very well.  I got it from LBS, so I assume
anyone can get it.  Here it is:
http://gallery.me.com/mhechmer#100094/IMG_1880bgcolor=black

michael

On Jan 5, 11:34 am, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
 After the recent post concerning leather handlebar wraps, I thought
 the group might be interesting in seeing some photos of my Rivendell
 Road Standard with the Fizik Microtex honey brown handlebar tape.  As
 I previously have mentioned, this tape isn't available from any U.S.
 sources that I'm aware of, and I ordered it from a UK seller.

 I've also recently added a lighting set-up to the bike using an older
 NOS Sanyo Dynapower bottom bracket generator that was in my parts
 stash.  This isn't the Cat's meow of generator systems, like the
 Schmidt SON 28, but it suits my needs well.

 I very rarely ride at night, so an expensive hub generator (and new
 wheel build) just doesn't make sense for me.  The bottom bracket
 generator doesn't really add too much drag and it has worked well in
 some previous usage that I've had.

 The photos are here:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/37964...@n05/

 Jim Cloud

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[RBW] Re: 1/1 ride and resolutions

2011-01-03 Thread MichaelH
Lots of interesting ride reports getting posted.  I'm a little
jealous.

It has been a very cold and very snowy Dec. here, so I haven't done
much riding; lots of partying though so I really need to check out the
diet thread.  But New Years Eve saw the weather shift and the
temperature rise into the upper thirties.  The shoulders were pretty
clear so I have gotten in about an hour and a half of riding each of
the last three days.  I live at the bottom of a 1 1/2 mile, 7% grade
on a dirt road.  On friday it was still pretty much frozen but by
saturday it was slush and Sunday was deep mud full of ruts and
holes.   Now I get to practice my bike cleaning skills and resolve.
There must have been two  or three lbs. of mud on the bike when I
brought it in last night and began what will ultimately take a couple
of hours. Did the crank and brakes last night because I wanted to get
the road salt off of them before they warmed up.

BTW, I opened a bottle of the El Duke cleaner that Riv has started
selling.  I was very impressed.  It not only does a good job it
doesn't have the overwhelming stink of either spirits or citrus
cleaners.

Keep the rubber side down, especially when you're riding on ice.
michael,
westford, vt



On Jan 3, 5:50 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Fortunately my garage is insulated, unfortunately no HVAC
 system...yet.

 I purchased a $20 electric heater and move it close to where I am
 working.  Makes things a little easier...mechanics gloves help too
 (cold tools).

 A dream would be to get an AC/Heater in the garage...but that's
 probably not a 2011 goal.

 Angus

 On Jan 2, 10:30 pm, Corwin ernf...@gmail.com wrote:



  I would list each of these resolutions as my own for 2011...

   1. Be better about proactive maintenance on my bikes.
   2. Thin down the herd so I stay on top of said maintenance.
   3. Get a decent garage heater to make winter projects more fun.
   4. Ride lots.
   5. Have fun.
   6. Take more photos.

  Re: #3 - I fully admit I am a wimp. My garage never gets close to Park
  City temps. Having lived in Colorado Springs, cold' weather in
  Northern California feels practically balmy.

  Corwin

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[RBW] Re: How do you know when tires are worn out?

2011-01-03 Thread MichaelH
The look of the tread is rarely the first sign of tire wear.  Usually
the sidewalls show wear first.  I have had tires go significantly past
3,000 miles.  Usually the rear wheel shows significant wear first, but
since I would never, ever want a front tire blow out, I always change
them at the same time.  Bottom line, keep an eye on them, but don't
rush to judgement.

michael

On Jan 3, 3:24 pm, Michael Shaljian mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've had a set of Jack Browns on my Quickbeam since getting it in May
 '09, and I've probably got near 2500 miles on them. They seem to ride
 just fine, but I'm wondering what I should be looking for to know if
 the tread is worn out. I'm 180 lbs., for what it's worth, and I assume
 these should have a max lifespan of about 3000 miles?

 If the original 'checkerboard tread' has been worn down to totally
 smooth, are they worn out? Or are they basically fine until all tread
 is gone? As expensive as good tires are I'm not eager to change sooner
 than necessary, but I do have a set of Schwalbes waiting that I'd like
 to try out, maybe just to mix up my riding with new rubber?

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[RBW] Re: AHH Gets A New Old Crank Set, Old Rear Derailleur - Feels Fantastic !

2010-12-31 Thread MichaelH
Very nice.  I'm not usually in favor of double TTs, but on your bike
they look perfect.  How the heck tall are you anyway?

BTW, I installed that 6700 RD this summer on my Ram and really love
it.  I moved a very good Centaur to another bike when I installed a
doubl ring crank, and have been amazed at how well this one shifts.
You're going to love it.

Happy New Year.
michael

On Dec 30, 4:33 pm, AmiSingh asd...@gmail.com wrote:
 My bicycle came alive today, and we were synchronized.  It was a great
 feeling.  Euphoria hit and and drivers kept staring. Maybe it's was
 because of the big fellow in the red rain-coat riding atop the
 turmeric-colored double-top-tubed bicycle.  I felt like it was because
 they were celebrating with me in sharing the huge smile upon my
 face. :)

 I gotta say, today was a good day.

 Here's a photo for your viewing pleasure:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/amisingh/5307702174/in/photostream/

 TA Carmina 185 cranks, Sugino chainrings 52 / 38, Shimano Ultegra 6700
 rear derailleur.  And waxed chain with a 80 / 20 Mix of Paraffin to
 Bees Wax for clean silent riding.

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