[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Betty Foy - $1900

[Scott Blouke]

I have a 58cm and a 60cm Betty Foy so I went a looked at an older set of 
tires and I am pretty sure that this is where the confusion is.
Here is another tire with similar labeling.
https://smile.amazon.com/Continental-Tour-Ride-ETRTO-42-584/dp/B0035Y3HP8?sa-no-redirect=1
I was assured I was buying a 58cm betty with 700c it didn't but I did get a 
58cm.
Scott.





On Friday, June 1, 2018 at 2:37:38 PM UTC-7, Ken Hekman wrote:
>
> OK. I re-examined the tires and they are 26 x 1 1/2. So I re-measured the 
> frame size in full daylight and came up with 59cm rather than 60cm. 
>
> On Friday, June 1, 2018 at 3:31:30 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> If it’s a 60 it shouldn’t have 26” wheels. They ought to be 700c aka 29”. 
>>
>> BL in EC
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone swap between bars regularly on the same bike?

[Scott Blouke]

I have pondered this at length and I don't think it would be too bad if you 
twist welded your cables as seen here 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUQQ9aggStw 
to make re threading them possible and installed some inline barrel 
adjusters to rapidly fine tune the shifting/brakes.
As painless as I can come up with.
Scott

On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 9:36:38 AM UTC-7, Brett Callahan wrote:
>
> I have a commitment issues and a conundrum. 
>
> I've got a Velo Orange Polyvalent that is currently built up in very 
> Riv-ish fashion with drop bars.  The bike is shifted with bar ends in 
> friction mode, and the brakes are Paul mini-motos. I've considered putting 
> albatross bars on it at times, but like the drops for longer rides.
>
> It occurs to me that in my parts bin I have an extra set of bar end 
> friction shifters, flat bar brakes, and an albatross bar/stem combo--a 
> complete separate cockpit. It doesn't seem too time consuming to swap back 
> and forth--disconnect the brakes, both shifters, pull the whole cockpit out 
> and plug the new one back in, reconnect the four cables. I know it would be 
> even easier with DT shifters, but I'm not a fan. 
>
> Has anyone done this? How'd it work out for you? 
>
> Brett, in need of a long weekend project, in PDX
>

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[RBW] Re: Coffee Making Question

[Scott Blouke]

I begin to say be careful of this rabbit hole then remember I am on the RWB 
board...
Some days I totally agree with Reed and use a Kleen Kanteen 20oz wide w/ 
the cafe lid.  
It fits in an iris cage and the lid comes apart to clean.


Then I also have make coffee kit. That started with and changed as I 
added/upgraded/gifted things.

Imusa aluminum mug for boiling water
DIY alcohol stove/wind screen
Random plastic mug for drinking
Melita pour over
Of course there are all the little things that go alone with the kit like a 
handkerchief matches/lighter/garbage ziplock,  what ever else you think up.

I added along the way
an Aeropress and a titanium pot
generic burr hand grinder when I feel fancy

Upgraded to a GSI infinity mug, its light and somewhat insulated
Got a BRS-3000T stove because of a trip w/ alcohol stove bans and it comes 
along sometimes.

I would like the helix pour over since it goes flat.

With the Aeropress you want to make sure your cup is sturdy and the mouth 
is wide enough but not too wide for the rim.
I also agree with Birdman the Aeropress makes an easy consistently good cup 
of coffee and I am using at home probably more than on the bike.




On Friday, May 25, 2018 at 7:02:26 AM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> I notice a strong correlation to those who love Riv Bikes, for a love of 
> coffee. On instagram I see a lot of coffee brewing bike kits for when folks 
> are out on their bikes. I am curious to know what people use. If you have a 
> coffee bike kit, would you share what you take with you? 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot fat tires

[Scott Blouke]

Yeah I got it used and they were on there.  the front brake pads are dead 
center in the slot.  The clearance issue is the way all the tektro brakes 
hang down so far below the mounting bolt.  The Pauls and the Shimanos are 
much higher/lower profile depending on how you look at it.  My Ram has the 
same limiting clearance but I still have plenty of life left in the Compas 
700x35 I have on it so no rush there either.

On Tuesday, May 1, 2018 at 1:49:06 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Huh, I've never even seen 365 before. The reach is 45-65, whereas my 559s 
> are 55-73 and maxed out at the rear. You need bigger brakes, bro!

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot fat tires

[Scott Blouke]

So they are Tektro R365 brakes and you can see the rear is nice and clear.



The front gap is 3-4 mm I think a different brake will make me much more 
comfortable.

On Tuesday, May 1, 2018 at 9:01:48 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Interesting, Scott..yes, I would like to see pics please. I have a Racer 
> brake I could swap in, Will @ Riv has his Chev set up the same way for 
> front clearance. 

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[RBW] Re: Cheviot fat tires

[Scott Blouke]

Joe,
I have a 58 Betty Foy I currently have Schwalbe Almotions 50x584 27.5x2.0 
mounted tubeless to some A23 rims.  The rear has plenty of clearance but 
the front is close to the brake which are tektro but I don't know the 
number.  The fork has plenty of room and I just can't quite bring myself to 
buy a paul racer for the front yet.  And some br-600's I have not seen for 
a reasonable price.  Its the same clearance limiting factor with my Ram 
that I have 700x35's on. 
I will take some pictures when I get home if you are interested.  I am 
happy with them but have not put that many miles on them to give a real 
review.  They are worlds better than the older marathons in 42x650 I 
replaced.



On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 8:25:27 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ya know what happens when you put a dang e-motor on a Cheviot? It gets 
> faster and heavier, rendering the previously cushy 41.5 Fatty Rumpkins 
> kinda hard and narrow. I need bigger 650b tires and wonder what others have 
> used. The old brochure says 45mm without fenders is about the max. 
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Tucson Stolen Bike Alert

[Scott Blouke]

That is terrible new I hope you find the bikes.  I know there are some very 
active Tuscon Instagrammers who might be able to spread the word better. 
I happened upon this advice on how to describe losses to the insurance 
adjuster that may help.
https://np.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/43iyip/our_family_of_5_lost_everything_in_a_fire/cziljy3/

On Tuesday, April 24, 2018 at 11:12:17 PM UTC-7, Matt Rhodes wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm saddened to report that my house was burglarized today. The thieves 
> broke in through a window, turned the house inside out and made off with 
> most all of the valuables, including two cherished bicycles. I'm posting 
> here to (1) ask all Tucsonans in the group to keep an eye out for these 
> bikes, and (2) ask all group members for any advice that might help my wife 
> and I retrieve them.
>
> My bike is a 60cm Cheviot, in the no-longer-available-on-Chevs green 
> metallic color currently available on some Clems. I took delivery of it in 
> 2014 and have ridden it more or less daily since then. Build details:
>
> - Rich-built 700c wheelset with silver Deore hubs laced to 36h Velocity 
> Dyads, wearing 50mm Schwalbe Big Bens
> - Pletscher single-leg kickstand
> - SKS P50 fenders, with holes for flaps and a rear fender-mounted light
> - Sugino XD2 wide/low 46t/20t crankset, 170mm, with reflective tape on the 
> crank arms
> - MKS sneaker pedals
> - Deore rear mech, Claris front mech
> - Tektro R559 brakes
> - Nitto SP60 seatpost
> - Brooks B17 select, wonderfully broken-in after 3.5 years of riding
> - Nitto Choco-moose bars
> - Tektro mtb levers, black body with silver levers
> - Silver bar-end shifters
> - Nitto Mark's rack, two struts, with Wald 137 basket secured via zip-ties
> - Pletscher rear aka Clem rack
> - older (c. 2014) Saddlesack Large, tan canvas with brown leather accents
>
> I haven't seen another green Chev (or any other Chev, for that matter) in 
> Tucson since I moved here ~2.5 years ago. I also have the original business 
> card from Riv mechanic Mark Abele with the order number and the frame's 
> serial number, and I know its beausage fingerprint inside and out. 
>
> My wife's bike is a 56cm Handsome XOXO (homage to Bridgestone XO-1), 
> orange with branding similar to that on the XO-1. She took delivery of it 
> this past February after purchasing it from 718 Cyclery in Brooklyn via 
> eBay. Build details:
>
> - 26" wheelset, black Deore rear hub and silver Shimano dyno front hub 
> laced to Sun Rhyno Lytes (or Alex DM24s...can't remember), wearing Schwalbe 
> Big Apples
> - B Eyc T Senso Plus dyno headlight
> - dyno rear light (I forget which model...)
> - Sugino triple crankset
> - black plastic BMX pedals
> - Deore XT rear mech, Shimano front mech (again, I forget which model...)
> - silver Shimano CX50 cantilevers
> - brown Brooks B17
> - Nitto Tallux stem
> - Nitto (I think?) drop bars wrapped in brown Salsa (I think?) foam tape
> - Shimano Tiagra road levers
> - Shimano bar-end shifters
>
> Although my wife only had the bike for a few months, neither of us have 
> noticed any other XOXOs around Tucson. Not sure about its serial number at 
> the moment, but we might be able to sort that out by getting in touch with 
> 718. 
>
> Big picture: it could have been much, much worse, and my wife and I are 
> thankful that it wasn't. The police have been helpful so far, and we'll 
> learn more tomorrow about what else they might be able to do. While I'm 
> pretty familiar with the LBS scene in Tucson, I have no idea what the 
> crooks might do with our bikes. This is our first time dealing with bike 
> theft, so any insights or advice would be hugely appreciated!
>
> Thanks for reading this far, and thanks in advance for any tips you might 
> be able to provide. 
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Turkey Vulture Supreme Gearing: New article about super low gearing on the Analog Journal

[Scott Blouke]

I just want to add.
A browse through some "common" touring bikes Fuji/LHT/Marrakesh/ REI ADV 
1.1 all use a 48/36/26 crank and while a 24T is possible its not on them.


On Friday, March 30, 2018 at 1:45:37 PM UTC-7, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> Also, it's been a long time since mountain bikes had a 24t low on a 
> triple. Most 26ers had 22t, with a 34t low (16.8 gear inches). 29ers 
> started getting a 20t low, before 2x and 1x drivetrains took over.
>
> On Fri, Mar 30, 2018 at 4:29 PM, John Hawrylak  > wrote:
>
>> James
>>
>> You claim of 23% lower gearing is not exactly true.  The difference is 
>> 15%, since a touring bike can easily have a 24T granny vs your article 
>> using a 26T granny for the touring bike and a 24T granny for TVS.  So the 
>> article is not a true comparison between a 26T granny/34T cog and your TVS 
>> of 24T / 40T.
>>
>> The 24/34 gives 19.3 gi.  The 15% difference to your TVS of 16.4 gi  
>> 924/40) is 1 gear shift lower.   I'm sure the 1 lower shift helps in the 
>> loose, steep stuff.
>>
>> Just pointing out the facts
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
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[RBW] Re: New Roadini; Bag... Sackville or Swift Industries

[Scott Blouke]

I like the roadrunner Jammer bag.  Its good as a saddle bag or a handlebar 
bag, its rackless and has a solid mounting.
https://roadrunnerbags.us/products/the-jammer-bag  They have a larger one 
and a lot of 
colors https://roadrunnerbags.us/blogs/road-runner-bags/colors-of-the-rainbow

On Wednesday, March 21, 2018 at 3:40:48 PM UTC-7, lambbo wrote:
>
> Hi folks, I've been struggling with an *very* important question: how to 
> carry things on my new (much loved) Roadini.  The bike is set up with 
> clip-in pedals and I'd like a way to bring some walking shoes and a snack 
> plus a few small tools etc. with me on long rides. 
>
> Anyone have experience with either:
>
> Sackville SmallSack, in the back (worried it will hit my thighs and, 
> despite what I hear, I think that would be annoying)
> or
> Swift Industries 'handlebar bag' of some sort, which is smaller seeming 
> but also has the convenience of a clear top for the phone or map. 
>
> Thanks!
> photo below is old, before ultegra pedals and front der., 
> the set up is IRD compact double crank, tiagra front and rear der, 48 
> Noodles, brooks B17 and bar tape, silver shifters (rear, bar-end, front, 
> downtube), old shimano brakes from old road bike, Jack Browns, and (too few 
> spokes?) Mavic Askium wheels that the guy who sold me the frame included 
> for a very generous price. 
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Light but strong wheels for a Sam or ???

[Scott Blouke]

I would consider the new velocity quill rim as well.  I have read a few 
favorable reviews.
http://www.jonesprecisionwheels.com/journal/2017/5/17/the-new-velocity-quill-ready-for-primetime


On Thursday, January 18, 2018 at 6:20:38 AM UTC-8, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for the info and suggestions.  There is much to research and 
> look at, especially at the ones I know the least about, the HED's and H 
> Plus Son's.  I have used Velocity rims for quite awhile so I am more 
> familiar with them.
>
> My first iteration of the new Sam will be using a truly nice (but heavier 
> than necessary) wheel set I have, with the plan to eventually build 
> something lighter down the road.  That said, the Sam will at least be shod 
> with lighter tires (Compass Barlow Pass) and I know from experience those 
> will be a big improvement over the touring tough tires I am prone to use. 
>
> Thanks to all for the help.
>
> Bob Lovejoy
> Galesburg, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Scott Blouke]

Garth
I got my 27F used and it didn't come with the canti struts I just use 
regular nitto struts to mid fork eyelets since its now on a bombadil it was 
on a Ram w/ P Clamps.
The 27F Pannier supports are really short so I had to shorten the bungie 
hook on the Panniers so they would stay on.

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 11:13:21 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>   Michele , I did mean the one that Scott linked .  I had not thought 
> about it though, but the Surly kit can even be used with that rack, though 
> I don't know it's capacity as it's not stated !   But still, having a 
> larger platform would better support a basket and you could use all sorts 
> of various bags.  
>
>   The soma rack 
> http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/porteur-rack-stainless-steel,  
> can also take small panniers on the lower horizontal rail. 
> The VO one can as well but the bag mounting interferes with the platform, 
> and the center of gravity would be higher. 
>
>As for racks like the 27F that attach @ canti mounts, that's fine if 
> your brakes have the right bolt style. Paul and Sun Tour require special 
> and very expensive ($30 pr.) bolts from Paul, ouch. 
>
>   But hey, the Nitto Big Front rack would work all around !  
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Hunqapillar?

[Scott Blouke]

I would infer Garth meant this 
one. 
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-porteur-rack.html
 
and use these for a higher attachment point instead of just the fork crown 
mount.  http://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/rear_rack_upper_kit

"I'd get a porteur rack of some sort, prolly the Soma Deluxe or the VO one 
with the Surly strut kit to attach to the mid fork eyelets. Then I'd either 
use a bag inside the fence of the rack or attach some other kind of 
container, just not a flimsy wire basket since they are not made to be 
attached with the basket wires."


My experience with front racks (I tend to wind up buying things picking up 
things and generally adding stuff to capacity).  I had a Nitto M-12 on a 
Rambouillet and an Ocean Air Cycles Demi Porteur bag and overloaded it too 
often and it was wobbly.  Found a used Nitto 27F and its great. Moved the 
M-12 to the SO's Betty Foy and overloaded/didn't like the safety strap Got 
a used Nitto Big Front rack w/ basket and a Makeshifter Canvas Works 
basketcase. Easy to load/unload take with and can take panniers.
I set up a differnt Betty Foy with a M-18 marks rack with both struts going 
to one mount point and the crown attachment.  Has a wald basket and I think 
its nice looks clean I think it is much better than the M-12 but I feel 
like it should have a set of longer struts to the drop out ie. Coreys Chev. 
 https://www.rivbike.com/pages/coreys-staff-bikes But once you do that I 
would go for the Nitto 27F/Big Rack for Pannier ability.


On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 8:24:06 AM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> @Garth do you mean the *Constructeur Front Rack?* 
>
> https://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-constructeur-front-rack.html
>
>
> On Saturday, August 5, 2017 at 3:42:44 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>>
>> Either the Soma Deluxe Porteur or the Velo Orange one with the Surly 
>> strut kit for $35 if you plan on carrying anything more than 5 pounds. Yes, 
>> I know people do it all the time but that doesn't make it a great idea. 
>>
>> Both of these would have 4 and/or 5 point attachments and be stable. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlas-like but tubeless

[Scott Blouke]

I am really happy with 36h 650b Cliffhangers they are stout, built up easy, 
nice and wide and were amazingly easy to setup some thunder burts up 
tubeless for my Bombadil.

On Monday, July 10, 2017 at 5:21:02 AM UTC-7, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> Yeah, I think the cliffhanger is the way to go for anyone wanting strong, 
> wide, rim brake compatible rims.  I think the atlas are just stouter dyads, 
> which I've found to be too narrow for 50+mm tires.  
>
>
>
> On Sunday, July 9, 2017 at 9:52:39 PM UTC-5, Kai Vierstra wrote:
>>
>> http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/cliffhanger-584
>> I've got a couple weeks on the 700c version and I think they're 
>> fantastic, and certainly a rarity being tubeless compatible and rim brake 
>> ready. 
>> -Kai
>> BK NY
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, July 9, 2017 at 9:56:23 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>>>
>>> Any recommendations for a atlas-like rim that is tubeless ready? I was 
>>> about to pull the trigger on an atlas dyno wheelset, but now I'm wondering 
>>> about wanting the option to go tubeless in the future, if I'm dropping a 
>>> significant chunk of money. 
>>> So I'd be looking for a double wall, 19mm minimum internal, rim braking, 
>>> 36 hole, tour and trail capable rim. 
>>> Anything good out there? Rims are not something I frequently check out, 
>>> so I'm pretty ignorant here. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: ChocoMoose question

[Scott Blouke]

Timothy,
I have Joe's old ChocoMoose bars,  Thanks Joe they are great thanks.

I have them on a 56cm Bombadil that I got from Tony off the list.
I got all excited to pull out my digital angle finder, and find a new 
battery for it since its been a while since I used it.
My Bomba has a 70.5 head tube angle and the ChocoMoose grips have a 10 
degree down slope.
I find them to be at a great angle.  


On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 2:00:30 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The photo at rivbike.com shows the way it sits accurately. I had them on 
> my Appaloosa for a while..they ended up being a little too close for my 
> tastes, but the angle was fine. 
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/handlebars-stems/products/nitto-choco-moose-bar-cromo-dulbright-54cm-16250
>

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[RBW] Re: 700 x 45-50 options

[Scott Blouke]

I am still undecided on the Almotions.  The reflective stripe isn't printed 
round and in the stand they look out of round but feel nice riding around. 
 They do not feel nice like the Bicycle Rolling Resistance review lead me 
to hope for.
I think that the tested tire and the TLE version are quite different.  I 
will give them a fair shot setup tubeless. 

I was excited to build up my Cliffhangers today but my double checking on 
my spoke calculations wasn't enough and I transposed some numbers so I 
would up with a bit too long drive side spokes.  I tried lacing it twice 
thinking it was me and not the spokes...  That was a bummer to a mediocre 
day.  So correct spokes are ordered hopefully they are here over the 
weekend I would like to get the Bombadil I recently got off the list up and 
ready to ride.
 

On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 4:59:58 PM UTC-7, William R. wrote:
>
> I have been riding the Schwalbe Almotions (50-622) on my Appaloosa for a 
> couple of days. They came folded. Very stiff sidewalls. I mounted them on 
> Atlas rims on Friday night, spun them in the stand, very lumpy. I let the 
> air out a couple of times and tried to get them seated better. Rode them on 
> the ride with Mark in Beacon on Saturday and they were just really 
> lumpy/bumpy, but it seemed like they were getting smoother as time and the 
> miles went by. Dropped the pressure to 50 rear/45 front before heading out 
> on Sunday. They were better. I want to like them. I am going to give them a 
> good chance and see if they round perfectly out. If not, back on will go 
> the T-Burts, they will go back on at some point anyway, they are so good! I 
> put the Snoqualmie's that I had on the Cross Check build that I am doing 
> for my son. I might get another pair for my go fast summer tires. There 
> seems to be a gap there in 622 fast, light tread tires from 44 (41 really 
> in the Snoqs) to about 60. I wish Schwalbe would fill up their Kojak line 
> with 45, 50, 55+ sizes and size down their Big Ones through the same range. 
> And as long as I am wishing, I wish Jan would come out with some 48, 54 and 
> 60's in 700/622 fast tires. Those Torches look like they would be good on 
> the Appaloosa too. I will look forward to your report on them Stuart.
>
> -Bill in Westchester, NY
>
> My 58cm Appaloosa with the Almotions (50-622) and fenders:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TohpI8TSR-I/WNmnZtfVHoI/ARg/m5YGSECdINo076K8mG6bbEkHrvC0PL_KgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2206.JPG>
>
>
> On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 12:02:07 PM UTC-4, Scott Blouke wrote:
>>
>> I just picked up a set of Schwalbe almotions in 50-584 but they make a 
>> 50-622 and a 55-622 and this one might be exactly the size you are looking 
>> for if they are a bit undersized.
>> They are currently only measuring out to 43mm wide on synergies but they 
>> are taller then the 42-584 Marathons they replaced.
>> I got them to mount tubeless on a set of cliffhangers so we will see once 
>> all those parts come in.
>> They seem tough but still roll well.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 700 x 45-50 options

[Scott Blouke]

I just picked up a set of Schwalbe almotions in 50-584 but they make a 
50-622 and a 55-622 and this one might be exactly the size you are looking 
for if they are a bit undersized.
They are currently only measuring out to 43mm wide on synergies but they 
are taller then the 42-584 Marathons they replaced.
I got them to mount tubeless on a set of cliffhangers so we will see once 
all those parts come in.
They seem tough but still roll well.  

On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 6:58:32 AM UTC-7, Trenker wrote:
>
> What is available in tires 700 x 45-50 for commuting and touring? For an 
> Atlantis on synergy rims. I have used Marathon Supremes in 700 x 40. They 
> are really nice tires and I have toured with them. Most of the paved and 
> unpaved roads in my area are fine with these, but some newly laid gravel 
> can need a wider tire. 
>
>
> I have Compass 700x44 and they are very light tires. For touring they’d be 
> all right because even if I get a flat every couple of days it doesn’t 
> matter, since I stop to rest anyway. But they are hardly bigger than the 
> Compass 700x38, they measure about 40-42 mm on my rims. For combined 
> touring and commuting I want something a bit sturdier than the Compass and 
> a bit lighter construction than the Marathon Supreme, at least 45 mm wide.  
> I want to make good use of the clearance on the Atlantis.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L (low bar) for longer rides?

[Scott Blouke]

Roberta 
If I set up a Clem L or Cheviot with some nice wheels/tires and 
albatross/bosco bars i would probably get rid of at least 2 bikes.
At speeds of 12-15 mph I don't really like drop bars as much as upright 
bars that have a forward hand position.
I have not rode a Clem L but I have ridden 2 Betty Foys and a they are 
great even while I am at the upper end on recommended rider weight.
I think the Clem L is neat because of the tire clearance and some of the 
new high volume tires are just fantastic to ride, amazingly fast and 
comfortable.
I don't think the kind of riding you are talking about are at the limits of 
any of the geared Rivendell bikes.  
I think its pretty much exactly what they are all for and more.
Scott



On Monday, March 20, 2017 at 5:09:19 PM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> For those of you who own this, how do you feel about Clem for longer 
> "exercise" rides--40-50 miles-- that is NOT touring.That is, I won't 
> load the bike with anything other than what I need on a one day 
> jaunt--lunch, flat kit, water, windbreaker, etc.  I don't want a slog of a 
> bike. (yes, I do realize that the "engine" is most important, but this 
> engine has two bikes and I go faster on one vs. the other.)  Most of the 
> area is flat, but in the city park and in some of the suburbs, it is hilly.
>
> I did consider a used Cheviot, but didn't get the sense that it was a 
> "long ride" bike-- a bit too upright.  I could be wrong.
>
> I'm considering a Clem L so I can do (and want to do more often) longer 
> exercise rides.   My minimum ride is 12.5 miles (1 hour) , but I like to go 
> 25 miles (2 hours) each weekend day.  Once or twice a month I'd like to do 
> a longer ride. 
>
> Thanks,
> Roberta, PBH 82.5, 57 YO, trying to get into better health
>

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[RBW] Re: Helpful resources for building a bike at home?

[Scott Blouke]

Max,
I got this tool 
kit https://smile.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bike-Bicycle-Repair-Tools/dp/B006WRWEJU 
it has been great, I service 4 Rivendells with it, there are better tools 
but I have haven't broken anything but the allens are rounding off and I am 
going to get a Bondhus set here to replace them.  Sheldon Brown, Park 
tools, and I really like RJ the Bike guy on youtube he often shows how to 
do things with less than ideal tools.
Make sure you have grease.  

On Wednesday, March 15, 2017 at 11:42:03 AM UTC-7, Max Bergen wrote:
>
> My Hunq is being delivered in a few days and I plan on building the bike 
> myself.  I was hoping some folks would have helpful resources on process 
> and tools for installing: 
>
> -BB
> -crankset
> -derailleurs
> -chain
> -brakes and levers and cables
> -thumbie shifters and cables 
>
> Thanks! 
> -Max
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rim Tape for Pacenti SL23 tubeless

[Scott Blouke]

I have had great success with black gorilla tape I use a razor blade in a 
large book and a clamp to get the right width then just roll the tape roll 
around and you have a nice edge and can get the perfect width.
I just picked up some Blue Strapping Tape 8896 for a wheel build on 
Velocity Cliffhangers I am going to do and see how it works.
I hear the Gorilla tape absorbs quite a bit of sealant and gets pretty 
heavy it does survive multiple tire changes which the Stans tape seems to 
not survive well.

There is a good MTBR.com form post "Tubeless Tape Thread" that gives a lot 
of pros and cons of each tape.

On Wednesday, March 15, 2017 at 6:08:40 PM UTC-7, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> My Homer has Rich Lesnik built 650b wheels with Pacenti SL23 rims. They 
> have been running perfectly since I got them in 2014. Recently, I have been 
> running them tubeless with Orange Seal and Compass Babyshoe Pass tires. 
> Sweet ride and I love the fact that I get zero flats. But I wonder if I 
> should replace the rim tape. I recently had them off for cleaning out the 
> dried Orange Seal (which, in retrospect, was not necessary). But anyway, 
> the rim tape is getting a little worn and brittle. So, I resolved that, 
> next time I get new tires, I’ll get new rim tape as well.
>
>
> The Pacenti SL23’s are 24.5mm outside width and 20.3mm inside width. So, 
> what width tubeless rim tape should I use? Rich used something blue vinyl, 
> but since it was stretched, I don’t know the original width. Can anyone 
> recommend the proper width and the best brand for tubeless?
>
>  
>
> Doug
>

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Re: [RBW] Is it possible to 'lengthen' cable housing?

[Scott Blouke]

I think a lot of people stick with bars they aren't the happiest with 
longer than they want because of the cost involved with swapping them out. 
 Housing/Cable/Grips/Tape not just the bars.
I just glued grips on a bar and I really want to slip a 8 speed thumb 
shifter on replacing a downtube shifter but i don't want to buy new 
grips...  Ughhh its always something.

You could get new cables because they probably won't be long enough and try 
blakclouds ferrule to ferrule temporary fix maybe find a spacer at home 
depot/lowes that the ferrules will just fit into and then heat shrink it in 
that spot so the junction didn't kink under load...


On Tuesday, March 14, 2017 at 12:15:18 PM UTC-7, Ash A wrote:
>
> Foks, 
>
> Much appreciate the info.
>
> The LBS said replacing the housing is the only option.  Now I know I'm not 
> the only one with the crazy idea of adding an extra piece of cable hosing. 
>  That said, perhaps the LBS doesn't see a great value in doing the 
> extension by means of inline adjusters.  Because 4 adjusters cost almost 
> same as new cable set.
>
> Just learned bike part lingo for the 'coupling' in question is 'junction 
> ferrule'.  They are buck or two cheaper than barrel adjusters. I'm going 
> with barrel adjusters because they are better value than junction ferrules.
>
> I was a hoping for a cheap sturdy piece plastic pipe that you could slide 
> two pieces of cables housings into.
>
>
>
> On Monday, 13 March 2017 17:46:28 UTC-7, Andrew Letton wrote:
>>
>> They make in-line cable adjusters that would probably do the trick for 
>> you. Something like these:
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps=in-line+cable+adjusters
>>
>> HTH,
>> Andrew
>>
>>
>> --
>> *From:* Ash A 
>> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch  
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 14, 2017 11:43 AM
>> *Subject:* [RBW] Is it possible to 'lengthen' cable housing?
>>
>>
>> I want to raise the handlebar a bit on a road bike own.  This would 
>> require longer cables.  The bike is relatively new, so I don't feel like 
>> unwrapping the handlebar tape.  Want to keep the 'original' finish for a 
>> little while.  
>>
>> I'm thinking of adding a small piece of cable housing at the end of 
>> housings attached to the handlebar. Is there any problem with this hack? 
>>  Also, is there any product (like a coupling) out there that can close the 
>> gap that will exist when I add the extra piece.
>>
>> Thanks! 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Is it possible to 'lengthen' cable housing?

[Scott Blouke]

This is exactly what I did when I changed to a VO Cigne stem on a bike it 
make the brake lines just too tight so I cut the old housing so the inline 
adjusters were in a good spot then added new housing from the inline 
adjuster to the housing stops worked perfectly.
I need to do this on another bike but it has full length housing runs so I 
might just add two adjusters one by the brake and one by the lever and put 
a longer piece of housing at the brake end.

On Monday, March 13, 2017 at 5:46:28 PM UTC-7, Andrew Letton wrote:
>
> They make in-line cable adjusters that would probably do the trick for 
> you. Something like these:
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps=in-line+cable+adjusters
>
> HTH,
> Andrew
>
>
> --
> *From:* Ash A 
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch  
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 14, 2017 11:43 AM
> *Subject:* [RBW] Is it possible to 'lengthen' cable housing?
>
>
> I want to raise the handlebar a bit on a road bike own.  This would 
> require longer cables.  The bike is relatively new, so I don't feel like 
> unwrapping the handlebar tape.  Want to keep the 'original' finish for a 
> little while.  
>
> I'm thinking of adding a small piece of cable housing at the end of 
> housings attached to the handlebar. Is there any problem with this hack? 
>  Also, is there any product (like a coupling) out there that can close the 
> gap that will exist when I add the extra piece.
>
> Thanks! 
> -- 
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Vs Clem Smith

[Scott Blouke]

In the Atlantis now redundant? thread; 
 https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/FS3F8Q7M86g
Grant replied and gives a pretty good account of the Appalosa vs Atlantis.
There is this thread as well. 
 https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/JhACFv-ugvA
My take on them is they are pretty similar and both excellent.
If I had most of a build in my parts bin I think I would spring for the 
Appa frame otherwise I would get the Clem complete.

On Monday, March 13, 2017 at 8:03:34 AM UTC-7, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone! 
> I'm new here, but my love of Rivendells is not!
> I'm getting ready to get my first Riv and its likely to be a Clemy or an 
> Appaloosa. I have ridden a Clem and I enjoyed it quite a bit, I have not 
> rode an Appaloosa. Lugwork and aesthetics aside what are the real 
> differences between the two bikes? They seem pretty similar to each other 
> with their long geometry and wheel configurations. I understand the Clem is 
> meant to be more of an everyday commuter and the Appaloosa more of a 
> tourer, but is this just waxing poetic? What I'm really asking about, I 
> guess, is the difference in ride character between the two bikes, or are 
> they akin to an entry level vs fully loaded version of the same vehicle.
>
> Thanks guys!
> Dave
>

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[RBW] Re: FS-Joe Appaloosa

[Scott Blouke]

I wonder that on every Riv or iBob'ish bike I see.  It makes it so much 
easier to do a mental comparison of that bike size to mine.  I hope its not 
like asking a lady her age so thanks for being first.
Scott

On Sunday, February 26, 2017 at 8:55:45 PM UTC-8, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Hope this isn't an inappropriate question, but is that saddle set at your 
> proper height?  If so, it looks to be an almost perfect fit, to me. 

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[RBW] Re: front rack recommendations

[Scott Blouke]

Bin
Great bike is that a Nitto NR-20 supporting what looks like a 
Swift/Ultraromance bag? Is it the Large or Small bag?
It looks like its far enough back to not hit your legs and helps with 
wobble while still being low profile?

Scott.

On Friday, February 3, 2017 at 5:02:10 PM UTC-8, Bin Chen wrote:
>
> Another vote for the Soma Porteur Rack.
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 19, 2016 at 9:11:48 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>>
>> im finding myself overloading my nitto m-18+basket regularly, and it is 
>> wiggling and bending more than i approve of. i think id like to replace it 
>> with a non-mini rack. looking around, there seem to be way more options 
>> than i thought there would be, especially with so many porteur style racks 
>> now .So im wondering if its possible to compile a semi comprehensive list 
>> of front racks that fullfill this criteria.
>>
>> -attach to the dropout eyelets
>> -clear 700x50 tires
>> -have an adequate platform for a basket
>> -are steel and silver
>> -are not super big/overbuilt/loaded touring style racks.
>>
>> pannier rails are not needed, but neednt be avoided either. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Front Racks and Baskets for All-Rounders/Atlantis/etc?

[Scott Blouke]

I had an M18 on my Rambouillet with pclamps and a Docena Demi-Porteur bag 
and after one too many overstuffed grocery stops I decided that I needed a 
different rack.
I acquired a Nitto 27F and I love it thinking about getting some braze-ons 
put on to get rid of the clamps.

I have not loaded it up with front panniers so I don't know how it will 
ride but I have not had any complaints loading up my Docena and the rack 
doesn't wobble like the M18 did.

On Tuesday, January 24, 2017 at 9:55:45 PM UTC-8, GerBear wrote:
>
> Hello, looking to add a Wald basket for my AR.  Anyone have any good 
> suggestions?  I am more of a slow rider that likes toting six packs and 
> baguettes than goo kind of guy.
> Cheers
>

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[RBW] Re: An un-obstructive front handle bar bag for boscos?

[Scott Blouke]

I don't know how close you hold the bars to the stem but you could look at 
the Randi Jo Fab 'Bartender Bag' or the 'Pocket 'Tender'.  
They sound similar to what you are describing making.
Scott.

On Friday, November 25, 2016 at 9:35:04 AM UTC-8, anniebikes wrote:
>
> I own a Clementine and after going on my first tour, I am looking for a 
> front handle bar bag that doesn't obstruct my grip in the forward 
> alternative hand position. I don't have a front rack (illusive search 
> because of my prerequisites - another discussion). I tried to make two 
> different hook and loop bags work, attaching each in various positions, but 
> the experiment didn't work out well - each bag swung, got in the way of my 
> hands, or rubbed against the paint on the head tube. I am coming up short 
> with Internet searches. The boscos bars seem to be a different animal! 
>
> I have a solution, however I wanted to ask the group if there is such a 
> handle bar bag available that might suit my needs, something's that easy to 
> detach but doesn't require a front rack. I am ready to sew and retrofit a 
> slim "tech" style bag that I picked up at Staples, which seems adequate for 
> holding passport, camera, phone, etc. I would mount it vertically beside 
> the stem which should allow ample hand space. 
>

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[RBW] Re: High Riding Handlebar Bag

[Scott Blouke]

Kevin

You could try the Nitto Lamp Holder to lower your KLICKfix mount.
 http://www.benscycle.com/p-1565-nitto-lamp-holder-1-260mm.aspx
I don't know if you would need the Lamp Holder 2 or not.

Scott

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