[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-29 Thread dougP
All those cool braze-ons on the rear got me wondering what would be 
provided at the front?  

dougP 

On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:53:25 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 Quick, someone else ask a question that Grant can illustrate with another 
 sneak peek!


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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-29 Thread Brian Campbell
Maybe if I drill a speed hole in my top tube, Grant will show the rest of the 
Clem??

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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread dougP
Having one odd fitting will remind your friend not to overtighten fasteners.

dougP

On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:24:08 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 So this friend of mine was installing a Burley Moose Rack on his 
 Hilsen. Like the good son of any 8 year Marine Corps veteran had been 
 taught, he snugged those bolts down good and tight! In the process, 
 shearing the threads right off of the eyelet.

 My friend is resourceful and has a tap  die set. He first tried 
 cleaning up the eyelet with a 5mm tap but it was clear the threads were 
 gone. Not worry, he used a fresh 6mm tap, some cutting fluid and the job 
 was complete. Rack installed. Safety now abounds

 The question my friend had was whether to just leave the rear drive 
 side, top ,eyelet at 6mm and all of the others at 5mm or now re-tap 
 everything on the frame, except the seat post bolt, to 6mm for uniformity?

 Is he crazy, obsessive, just a pseudo-engineer or do you think there is 
 any merit to making the change of all of the mounting points to 6mm?



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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
Tell your friend it is just regular beausage.

On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:24:08 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 So this friend of mine was installing a Burley Moose Rack on his 
 Hilsen. Like the good son of any 8 year Marine Corps veteran had been 
 taught, he snugged those bolts down good and tight! In the process, 
 shearing the threads right off of the eyelet.

 My friend is resourceful and has a tap  die set. He first tried 
 cleaning up the eyelet with a 5mm tap but it was clear the threads were 
 gone. Not worry, he used a fresh 6mm tap, some cutting fluid and the job 
 was complete. Rack installed. Safety now abounds

 The question my friend had was whether to just leave the rear drive 
 side, top ,eyelet at 6mm and all of the others at 5mm or now re-tap 
 everything on the frame, except the seat post bolt, to 6mm for uniformity?

 Is he crazy, obsessive, just a pseudo-engineer or do you think there is 
 any merit to making the change of all of the mounting points to 6mm?



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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread Bill
Ya make em all sixes an screw one up and yer looking at making em all eights. 
Quit now while yer ahead.

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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread grant
Hey Brian,
Your friend needn't overreact to his overtightening by retapping them 
all. That would also remove metal and who knows where that would lead. 
But a case can be made for 6mm lower rack mounts. Our new rear Clem-'pout  
has both 5mm (lower,for fender) and 6mm eyes on it,,,and then further up 
the chainstay there's another 6mm boss, in case one wants to use a 
shorter rack on a bigger wheel. 
All we us here generally now use Nordlack washers, as praised in the 
catalog. They prevent loosening, but we backemup with beeswax, anyway.

On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:24:08 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 So this friend of mine was installing a Burley Moose Rack on his 
 Hilsen. Like the good son of any 8 year Marine Corps veteran had been 
 taught, he snugged those bolts down good and tight! In the process, 
 shearing the threads right off of the eyelet.

 My friend is resourceful and has a tap  die set. He first tried 
 cleaning up the eyelet with a 5mm tap but it was clear the threads were 
 gone. Not worry, he used a fresh 6mm tap, some cutting fluid and the job 
 was complete. Rack installed. Safety now abounds

 The question my friend had was whether to just leave the rear drive 
 side, top ,eyelet at 6mm and all of the others at 5mm or now re-tap 
 everything on the frame, except the seat post bolt, to 6mm for uniformity?

 Is he crazy, obsessive, just a pseudo-engineer or do you think there is 
 any merit to making the change of all of the mounting points to 6mm?



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Re: [RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread Joe Bunik
Earwax also works in a pinch!
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 7/28/14, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey Brian,
 Your friend needn't overreact to his overtightening by retapping them
 all. That would also remove metal and who knows where that would lead.
 But a case can be made for 6mm lower rack mounts. Our new rear Clem-'pout
 has both 5mm (lower,for fender) and 6mm eyes on it,,,and then further up
 the chainstay there's another 6mm boss, in case one wants to use a
 shorter rack on a bigger wheel.
 All we us here generally now use Nordlack washers, as praised in the
 catalog. They prevent loosening, but we backemup with beeswax, anyway.

 On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:24:08 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 So this friend of mine was installing a Burley Moose Rack on his
 Hilsen. Like the good son of any 8 year Marine Corps veteran had been
 taught, he snugged those bolts down good and tight! In the process,
 shearing the threads right off of the eyelet.

 My friend is resourceful and has a tap  die set. He first tried
 cleaning up the eyelet with a 5mm tap but it was clear the threads were
 gone. Not worry, he used a fresh 6mm tap, some cutting fluid and the job
 was complete. Rack installed. Safety now abounds

 The question my friend had was whether to just leave the rear drive
 side, top ,eyelet at 6mm and all of the others at 5mm or now re-tap
 everything on the frame, except the seat post bolt, to 6mm for
 uniformity?

 Is he crazy, obsessive, just a pseudo-engineer or do you think there is

 any merit to making the change of all of the mounting points to 6mm?



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 RBW Owners Bunch group.
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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread David Spranger
That picture just makes me want to see more... I like what I see.

David
Charlotte, NC

On Monday, July 28, 2014 6:20:49 PM UTC-4, grant wrote:

 Hey Brian,
 Your friend needn't overreact to his overtightening by retapping them 
 all. That would also remove metal and who knows where that would lead. 
 But a case can be made for 6mm lower rack mounts. Our new rear Clem-'pout  
 has both 5mm (lower,for fender) and 6mm eyes on it,,,and then further up 
 the chainstay there's another 6mm boss, in case one wants to use a 
 shorter rack on a bigger wheel. 
 All we us here generally now use Nordlack washers, as praised in the 
 catalog. They prevent loosening, but we backemup with beeswax, anyway.

 On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:24:08 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 So this friend of mine was installing a Burley Moose Rack on his 
 Hilsen. Like the good son of any 8 year Marine Corps veteran had been 
 taught, he snugged those bolts down good and tight! In the process, 
 shearing the threads right off of the eyelet.

 My friend is resourceful and has a tap  die set. He first tried 
 cleaning up the eyelet with a 5mm tap but it was clear the threads were 
 gone. Not worry, he used a fresh 6mm tap, some cutting fluid and the job 
 was complete. Rack installed. Safety now abounds

 The question my friend had was whether to just leave the rear drive 
 side, top ,eyelet at 6mm and all of the others at 5mm or now re-tap 
 everything on the frame, except the seat post bolt, to 6mm for uniformity?

 Is he crazy, obsessive, just a pseudo-engineer or do you think there is 
 any merit to making the change of all of the mounting points to 6mm?



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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread Bill Lindsay
That's another way to solve the fixed chainstay angle of the ClemCluster. 
 Vary the tentacular curve factor with frame size!  

On Monday, July 28, 2014 4:02:51 PM UTC-7, David Spranger wrote:

 That picture just makes me want to see more... I like what I see.

 David
 Charlotte, NC

 On Monday, July 28, 2014 6:20:49 PM UTC-4, grant wrote:

 Hey Brian,
 Your friend needn't overreact to his overtightening by retapping them 
 all. That would also remove metal and who knows where that would lead. 
 But a case can be made for 6mm lower rack mounts. Our new rear Clem-'pout  
 has both 5mm (lower,for fender) and 6mm eyes on it,,,and then further up 
 the chainstay there's another 6mm boss, in case one wants to use a 
 shorter rack on a bigger wheel. 
 All we us here generally now use Nordlack washers, as praised in the 
 catalog. They prevent loosening, but we backemup with beeswax, anyway.

 On Monday, July 28, 2014 9:24:08 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 So this friend of mine was installing a Burley Moose Rack on his 
 Hilsen. Like the good son of any 8 year Marine Corps veteran had been 
 taught, he snugged those bolts down good and tight! In the process, 
 shearing the threads right off of the eyelet.

 My friend is resourceful and has a tap  die set. He first tried 
 cleaning up the eyelet with a 5mm tap but it was clear the threads were 
 gone. Not worry, he used a fresh 6mm tap, some cutting fluid and the job 
 was complete. Rack installed. Safety now abounds

 The question my friend had was whether to just leave the rear drive 
 side, top ,eyelet at 6mm and all of the others at 5mm or now re-tap 
 everything on the frame, except the seat post bolt, to 6mm for uniformity?

 Is he crazy, obsessive, just a pseudo-engineer or do you think there 
 is any merit to making the change of all of the mounting points to 6mm?



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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Quick, someone else ask a question that Grant can illustrate with another sneak 
peek!

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[RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen: A Question for a Friend

2014-07-28 Thread bo richardson
is this Clem or uh Clem?

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