[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-27 Thread Kelly
All of my bikes have triples 24/36/46 and I've had one with a  50/38/24 ... 
I've never actually had problems with chain length. .. all I do is size it 
to small small with the slightest tension and go with it.  I don't want 
to give up the big.. and I ride in the 36 or 38 most of the time up front.. 
however  the 24 saves me often.  
A 24/36 climbing gear when fully loaded gear and otherwise.  I don't get 
that extreme with a compact double.  Either I don't get a big enough top 
end or not lough enough bottom end.When I had plastic bikes the 50/34 
was all I had for hill days so 34/27 was best I could do.. yuck.. :)  So 
just throwing my vote out there for the triple.. :)  I love em.. :)  

I do have a 42/24 White industries double if anyone is looking  :)  My wife 
kept running out of gear with flats and tailwinds so I got her a Rene Herse 
triple. 

Now if I was in shape and strong I would totally agree with the compact 
double :)  

With respect .. old fat and slow me :)

Kelly

On Sunday, July 26, 2015 at 5:31:29 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 fair enough - we mostly assumed you were posting the photo to laugh about 
 it rather than ask.  But kind of the point of having a compact double is to 
 ride in those extremes.  



 On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 11:05:38 AM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 Nah, everything's fine now after adding an extra link to the chain.  I 
 don't ride in big-big or small-small combos, so I'm not concerned about 
 this happening again. 

 I shared this mostly to laugh at myself a bit and as a reminder to check 
 chain length after swapping out drive train parts. 

 Cheers!
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


  

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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-27 Thread Ron Mc
On most triples, you're not going to even want opposite extreme chainlines. 
 Even on my cyclotouriste triple, which is half-steps plus bailout (and is 
narrow enough to use a road double FD), my Suntour Cyclone GT RD doesn't 
have sufficient chain wrap to get me down to my smallest rear cog on my 
bailout ring - but I don't need it.  Tinkering with this setup is where I 
modeled the compact double on my newer bike.  But the compact double setup, 
you really do want to be able to get through all the combinations, so you 
want adequate chain wrap in your RD, and you want chain adjusted properly 
for the range.  

On Monday, July 27, 2015 at 7:50:05 AM UTC-5, Kelly wrote:

 All of my bikes have triples 24/36/46 and I've had one with a  50/38/24 
 ... I've never actually had problems with chain length. .. all I do is size 
 it to small small with the slightest tension and go with it.  I don't 
 want to give up the big.. and I ride in the 36 or 38 most of the time up 
 front.. however  the 24 saves me often.  
 A 24/36 climbing gear when fully loaded gear and otherwise.  I don't get 
 that extreme with a compact double.  Either I don't get a big enough top 
 end or not lough enough bottom end.When I had plastic bikes the 50/34 
 was all I had for hill days so 34/27 was best I could do.. yuck.. :)  So 
 just throwing my vote out there for the triple.. :)  I love em.. :)  

 I do have a 42/24 White industries double if anyone is looking  :)  My 
 wife kept running out of gear with flats and tailwinds so I got her a Rene 
 Herse triple. 

 Now if I was in shape and strong I would totally agree with the compact 
 double :)  

 With respect .. old fat and slow me :)

 Kelly

 On Sunday, July 26, 2015 at 5:31:29 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 fair enough - we mostly assumed you were posting the photo to laugh about 
 it rather than ask.  But kind of the point of having a compact double is to 
 ride in those extremes.  



 On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 11:05:38 AM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 Nah, everything's fine now after adding an extra link to the chain.  I 
 don't ride in big-big or small-small combos, so I'm not concerned about 
 this happening again. 

 I shared this mostly to laugh at myself a bit and as a reminder to check 
 chain length after swapping out drive train parts. 

 Cheers!
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


  

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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-26 Thread Ron Mc
fair enough - we mostly assumed you were posting the photo to laugh about 
it rather than ask.  But kind of the point of having a compact double is to 
ride in those extremes.  



On Saturday, July 25, 2015 at 11:05:38 AM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 Nah, everything's fine now after adding an extra link to the chain.  I 
 don't ride in big-big or small-small combos, so I'm not concerned about 
 this happening again. 

 I shared this mostly to laugh at myself a bit and as a reminder to check 
 chain length after swapping out drive train parts. 

 Cheers!
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


  

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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-25 Thread ascpgh
I always found that Suntour rear derailleurs had a very nice way of 
providing a way to set the big ring/small cog position, presuming you've 
selected rings and max cog sizes within a unit's specifications. It was an 
embossed dot on the outer cage side plate that was to be aligned with the 
mark on the cage spring housing, just across the plastic seal/bushing from 
the cage. B-screw adjustment would finalize the adjustment to optimize.

Short cage on triples was an interesting MTB phase just before the 
MicroDrive (and Shimano's answer) kicked in. The overt marketing of 
requisite rider skill attracted many who didn't have it.

Coffee and breakfast with a short cage XC Pro RD in front of the computer.

Andy Cheatham
PIttsburgh

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:17:22 PM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:

 two things to look at on optimizing chain length.  On biggest ring and 
 biggest cog, your RD should be forward no more than 45 degrees, if it's 
 less, the chain's too short.  On your smallest and smallest, the length of 
 chain running between the two jockey wheels should be pointing no higher 
 than horizontal, if it is, the chain is too long.  There should be enough 
 chain wrap on most long cage derailleurs to make this do-able.  
 Something else, you're stretching the RD cage return spring farther than 
 it was designed to go, and it may take a set.  .  


 On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 4:11:07 PM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 On the Atlantis I was switching from downtube to bar end shifters (front 
 derailer only) and did this during a test ride. 

 http://flic.kr/p/w9Ntbb

 I swapped the cassette a while back. New one has a higher-toothed low 
 gear. I guess I forgot to resize the chain length.  After the addition of a 
 link I can happily if awkwardly ride again in the big-big combo.  :)

 Aaron Awkward and Happy Young
 The Dalles, OR



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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-25 Thread Aaron Young
Nah, everything's fine now after adding an extra link to the chain.  I
don't ride in big-big or small-small combos, so I'm not concerned about
this happening again.

I shared this mostly to laugh at myself a bit and as a reminder to check
chain length after swapping out drive train parts.

Cheers!
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Saturday, July 25, 2015, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Have you eyeballed your rear alignment?  I did something similar on an old
 MTB and bent the rear-end so much that I had to trash the bike.  The frame
 builder I took it to said the entire rear was displaced to the side by 2.5
 or something like that and the chainstays themselves were bent beyond
 repair.



 On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 4:11:07 PM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 On the Atlantis I was switching from downtube to bar end shifters (front
 derailer only) and did this during a test ride.

 http://flic.kr/p/w9Ntbb

 I swapped the cassette a while back. New one has a higher-toothed low
 gear. I guess I forgot to resize the chain length.  After the addition of a
 link I can happily if awkwardly ride again in the big-big combo.  :)

 Aaron Awkward and Happy Young
 The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-25 Thread 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch
Have you eyeballed your rear alignment?  I did something similar on an old 
MTB and bent the rear-end so much that I had to trash the bike.  The frame 
builder I took it to said the entire rear was displaced to the side by 2.5 
or something like that and the chainstays themselves were bent beyond 
repair.  



On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 4:11:07 PM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 On the Atlantis I was switching from downtube to bar end shifters (front 
 derailer only) and did this during a test ride. 

 http://flic.kr/p/w9Ntbb

 I swapped the cassette a while back. New one has a higher-toothed low 
 gear. I guess I forgot to resize the chain length.  After the addition of a 
 link I can happily if awkwardly ride again in the big-big combo.  :)

 Aaron Awkward and Happy Young
 The Dalles, OR


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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-24 Thread Ron Mc
two things to look at on optimizing chain length.  On biggest ring and 
biggest cog, your RD should be forward no more than 45 degrees, if it's 
less, the chain's too short.  On your smallest and smallest, the length of 
chain running between the two jockey wheels should be pointing no higher 
than horizontal, if it is, the chain is too long.  There should be enough 
chain wrap on most long cage derailleurs to make this do-able.  
Something else, you're stretching the RD cage return spring farther than it 
was designed to go, and it may take a set.  .  


On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 4:11:07 PM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 On the Atlantis I was switching from downtube to bar end shifters (front 
 derailer only) and did this during a test ride. 

 http://flic.kr/p/w9Ntbb

 I swapped the cassette a while back. New one has a higher-toothed low 
 gear. I guess I forgot to resize the chain length.  After the addition of a 
 link I can happily if awkwardly ride again in the big-big combo.  :)

 Aaron Awkward and Happy Young
 The Dalles, OR


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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-24 Thread Michael Hechmer
Yup, everybody whose ridden more than 100 miles over hilly terrain has done 
that.   Personally I avoid wide range clusters because there is too much 
jump between gears.

Adding a link to a chain cn be tricky, glad you pull it off, I mean put it 
on.
Michael

On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 5:11:07 PM UTC-4, A. L Young wrote:

 On the Atlantis I was switching from downtube to bar end shifters (front 
 derailer only) and did this during a test ride. 

 http://flic.kr/p/w9Ntbb

 I swapped the cassette a while back. New one has a higher-toothed low 
 gear. I guess I forgot to resize the chain length.  After the addition of a 
 link I can happily if awkwardly ride again in the big-big combo.  :)

 Aaron Awkward and Happy Young
 The Dalles, OR


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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

2015-07-24 Thread Lungimsam
I like this method. Very easy. They even tell you at which link to cut the 
chain. Worked great on my Sam when I went to 8-speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZHbfblJzaw

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