Melanie, I found with swept bars, it's best to rotate the trigger shift
lever up, so the throw is about 45 degrees downward. (If looking at the end
of the bar, rotate the shifter clockwise so the paddle is higher. It's
easier to shift this way for me, and I have carpal tunnel and I am ulnar
I would stick to 9-speed and go with these shifters for an upright bar w/o bar
ends.
MicroShift Flat Bar Double/Triple 9 speed Thumb Shifters
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJXMFK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wC87zbK9C5E8A
I would go with 9-speed to avoid snags with road versus mountain components not
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 10:51:43 AM UTC-4, Melanie wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a trigger shifter that works well with swept-back bars?
> I may have to install bar ends or go the oddly mounted thumb shifter
> route. But triggers near the brake levers would be ideal. Thanks.
> Melanie
They just slide around the bend, similar to how a quill stem slides around
bend. They are regular XT and Saint shifters and DON'T have a hinged clamp.
but are easy to get around.
Clayton Scott
SF, CA
On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 1:33:01 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Clayton, how did you
I've used Deore 3x9 shifters on a 710 Jones Loop and a Bosco, and it works
well for both.
I found the best position for shifters on the Jones is pretty darn close to
the loop. A superlong grip (like the ESI Chunky, which they sell) or just
bar tape gives a myriad of hand positions across the
Use triggers on Jones bars for both the dropper post and the 11 speed
shifter (integrated via i-spec with the brake lever).
Trigger on Choco- and Bosco-mooses too. They work great and there is enough
real estate on the bars to make them not get in the way.
On the Choco I ran the shifter right
I use XT 9-speed triggers on bullmoose bars. Works well, imho.
jim m
walnut creek, ca
On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 7:51:43 AM UTC-7, Melanie wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a trigger shifter that works well with swept-back bars?
> I may have to install bar ends or go the oddly mounted thumb
Project Trigger Finger Betty well underway. All new 9 speed drivetrain
including black trigger shifters. Here is how the concept looks in execution.
https://goo.gl/photos/QcucVPkmVMLs4nfx7
https://goo.gl/photos/jhjL317CtrLAHoQB8
I am telling myself the black trigger shifters give the bike a
Perhaps some frame matching paint could help?
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I like these and I might use them on my bike. But it looks like it would
use opposing muscle groups. Her balance wiring is marginal. I think it's
going to be triggers.
Ed K
On Sunday, August 2, 2015 at 8:49:25 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
Regarding shifter alternatives, I suggest you consider
Agreed - it's back to the 9-speed stone age for me. A reasonably-priced
Riv drivetrain is what I should have insisted on. That's my next step,
along with your suggestion of older 9-speed shifters. I think that will
set her up. It won't be shiny 105 components but it will work well.
Thanks
I was excited to see this thread because I was planning to do this to my
wife's Betty. So I pulled the trigger (ha) and bought a set of Albatross
bars from Riv and Shimano SL-T670 shifters from Nashbar. Went to set it up
this morning.
The bike has 105 derailers and a 10-speed cassette. The
Some Walmarts have KMC 9 speed chains re-branded as Bell and they cost not
much more than on eBay, $14 at my Walmart. I've never bought one but I
made a mental note in case I ever found myself needing one.
On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 9:39 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
Proprietary
I've used 10 speed chains before on 9 speed drivetrains, worked fine.
On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 10:16 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:
Nine speed is specially sized. Not the company, the size. Chains from
five to eight speed are interchangeable. At nine you need a
Microsoft makes Dynasys compatible bar-ends, if you want to take that post
the other direction, e.g., have a Dynasys-spec MTB rear derailer and don't
want to use trigger shifters.
On Sun, Aug 2, 2015 at 2:14 PM, iamkeith keithhar...@gmail.com wrote:
Sorr y for short reply - on smart phone at
Thanks everybody for dragging me into 2010 when Dynasys became the cool
thing. Somehow I managed to miss all of that, probably out riding my bike.
It certainly is not mentioned in the adverts for shifters.
Let me take a step back and ask some advice: this is being driven by my
wife's
Sorr y for short reply - on smart phone at moment, but can expand later if
necessary.
Shimano changed derailleur movement ratio for mountain groups only with advent
of 10 speed. They call it dynasys. All previous derailleurs with exception of
older dura ace were 1.67:1 (often cited as
This-- 10 spd Shimano Road does not equal 10spd Shimano Mountain (Dynasys).
Usually, the conflict is the other way--people wanting to use the
wide-range dynasys cassettes with their shimano road shifters (in which
case, a 9spd mountain bike rear derailleur will work). In this case, the
Two more thoughts:
- If you ride in hilly terrain, you probably want a wider-range cassette,
no matter which setup you choose. Something like 12-34 for 9 speed, or
12-36 for 10 speed. Sounds like this guy really did steer you wrong and,
on top of everything else, gave you a close-ratio
Regarding shifter alternatives, I suggest you consider trying these mounted
so the shifter is on the inside/underside of the bar
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsr.htm
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsl.htm
I think I have seen folks do sort of the same set up with the paul thumbies
Keeping this as simple and inexpensive as possible, while adhering to your
perfectly reasonable criteria, I think there are basically three ways to go:
1. Get a mountain-specific 10 speed derailleur, to work with all of the
other parts you already have. They're not especially pretty compared
I'm very grateful for the time everyone has taken to respond to my
question. I'm always interested in the views of others. In the mean time,
it seems to make sense to set up my albatross bar with bar-ends. I have a
9/3 setup with Dura Ace bar ends. I may move to trigger shifters if I find
they really are special, and I got a Wippermann Conex stainless with hollow
pins from Ribble for $50. (v. $110-117 from US vendors)
here, I'll throw you a bone
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/wippermann-wippermann-chains-wippermann-connex-9s1-9-spd-chain/wippchai3400
Unique is one thing, proprietary is another.
Definition of /PROPRIETARY
/
1*:* one that possesses
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/possess, owns, or holds
exclusive right to something; /specifically/ *:* proprietor
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/proprietor
2*:* something
Today you have won all the internets!
Nine speed chains are special.
On Mon, Jul 20, 2015 at 4:46 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
Unique is one thing, proprietary is another.
Definition of PROPRIETARY
1: one that possesses, owns, or holds exclusive right to something;
Used to love eight speed, but I'm finding that other than a
proprietary sized chain, nine is pretty nice. Not a fan of 10 due two
chains coming apart mid-ride. NEVER had that happen with six, seven,
eight, or nine.
On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 11:14 AM, Philip Williamson
philip.william...@gmail.com
Proprietary sized chain? You can buy 9 speed chains from many, many
companies. It's as much of a standard as any other size chain.
On 07/19/2015 10:34 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
Used to love eight speed, but I'm finding that other than a
proprietary sized chain, nine is pretty nice.
--
You
I use trigger shifters on my MTB and as a mechanic work on them all the
time. Indexed triggers have been refined a lot over the years and now work
really well, although it is true that they operate on finer tolerances than
friction setups and thus require a bit more care and attention when
Nine speed is specially sized. Not the company, the size. Chains from
five to eight speed are interchangeable. At nine you need a
proprietary-sized one. Same with 10 and 11.
On Sun, Jul 19, 2015 at 7:39 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
Proprietary sized chain? You can buy 9 speed
I settled on nine speed when I had to use those chains for my Dingle cogs.
I suddenly have an 8 speed Lemond, with STI, so I might be branching out.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
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Thanks for the tip on resuscitating old Shimano triggers. Mine stopped working,
and I thought they had stripped the pawls.
I've been thinking about taking the Bontrager back to its original flat bar,
from drops. I'll see if the shifters are fixable with your method.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
Hi Steve, I've had MTB trigger shifters mounted on A-bars, and they
work fine. IIRC they were the integrated kind attached to brake
levers. A little clunky looking, but function worked well.
You didn't mention the option, but I prefer thumb shifters to either
trigger or bar end.
As for bar end,
currently very happy with indexed thumbies. While trigger shifters work
find they gon't give you visual feedback about your engaged gear.
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Some triggers have a gauge with a red indicator for your current gear. XT
and XTR definitely have this.
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I have used Shimano Rapid Fire on my hardtail since the early 2000s. Only
XT and XTR. Both are great. Although, as with any indexing system, the
front der adjustment can be tricky. You often have to life with a little
chain rub against the inside of the cage.
Personally, I stay away from the
Having used both Shimano brifters and their BE indexed shifters I found I
much prefer the BEs. Although I should add that my experience with the
brifters - a couple of years of commuting was 10 years ago. I found the
rear brifters worked well, while the front, with a triple, needed constant
Funny you should ask! I just yesterday received a box from Rivendell with
a set of Albatross bars, to put on a mountain bike that I haven't been able
to make peace with fit-wise, and which happens to have trigger shifters.
I just swapped the bars on this afternoon and went for a ride. Some
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