I think using a nylock, putting a screw all the way through and using that
as a sleeve to contain the screw will lead to problems down the road. If
that screw is in there, slamming around and you bounce down the road, it's
a shock on each bump. The cheapest fix IMO that would be really secure
Geoff,
The bolt (might need a button head for clearance if drive side) and nut
properly tightened will hold rack to braze-on with clamping force. It won't
budge over bumps or cause any problems. Lots of older bikes have unthreaded
braze-ons meant to be used exactly like this.
I'd go this route
If you do chase the threads, make sure you get new hardware, bolts stretch
over time with use and that could contribute to your problem.
On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:27:07 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com
wrote:
Both answers are good ones. In fact, chase the threads, and then use a
Hope y'all are getting some time off for riding. In the 70s here, but
raining cats and dogs for two days, so working on my bikes and looking for
the most practical, creative and immediate solution to a stripped braze-on
on my Betty, unfortunately the BO to which the rear rack attaches. Don't
You can try chasing the threads with a M5x0.8 tap but you may need to
repair it with a helicoil insert, like:
http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-5-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B000BB8XLG
It sounds scary but it's not that hard.
cc
On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 8:28 PM, Mobile Bill wfi...@rocketmail.com
Without a pic I am guessing you mean the threaded cylinder brazed to the seat
stay?
Maybe just use a nylock nut with a new bolt? Is that ok to use for a cylinder
like that?
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Both answers are good ones. In fact, chase the threads, and then use a
longer bolt w/ a nylock!
On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 9:58 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
Without a pic I am guessing you mean the threaded cylinder brazed to the seat
stay?
Maybe just use a nylock nut with a new
