Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
I find everything is connected. As I move the seat further back, I need to lower the saddle to keep the distance to the pedals (and therefore pedal stroke) similar. I've also found that I prefer shorter crank arms (170 or even 165) on bikes with the seat further back. I suppose this makes logical sense...as you move the saddle back, a shorter crank compensates, keeping the distance to the pedals the same. But I just made that theory up on the spot and have absolutely no scientific basis for it... On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 7:06:35 PM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote: > > How do you find having the saddle all the way affects your reach to the > pedals / pedal stroke? > > On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 5:57:19 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote: >> >> Patrick: I've also found the same. I like to be back on the saddle when >> cranking at a low rpm. But prefer to be a bit further forward when I'm >> spinning with less resistance. Just my (completely unscientific) >> observations. >> >> Rene: For you're sake, lets hope they graded on a curve! I've definitely >> found the same. The B17 always needed to be all the way back for me...even >> on a Riv. One of the reasons I think I'm more comfortable on the C17. >> >> As for choosing the bike for drop versus upright... >> >> I just picked up a used Hilsen for a second bike...Woohoo! I ended up >> going with a 61cm, even though Riv sizing says my 89.75 pbh would be better >> on a 63. Though there is a bit more seatpost/stem showing then I like, I >> went with the 61 for a few reasons: (1) My 62cm SimpleOne fits me perfectly >> and shares the same top tube length as the 61 Hilsen. I know Riv downplays >> this, but for a long-legged, short-torsoed gentleman like myself, I try to >> pay attention to it; (2) I feel like I could use drops or upright bars on >> the 61, while the 63 would be too long and require a ridiculously short >> stem. Granted, I probably won't put drop bars on it anytime soon, but I >> like the feeling that it's possible; and (3) it was available at a good >> price and is a beautiful bike. That said, I may live to regret the choice. >> But like I say to my students when they ask if something will work, >> 'there's only one way to find out.' >> >> Eric >> >> On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:52:15 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: >>> >>> Eric: this agrees with what I read about saddle setback and weight on >>> hands; that a butt position behind the bb, no matter how this is achieved, >>> makes your torso muscles carry more weight and leaves less on your hands. >>> It certainly agrees, too, with my own experience -- a saddle too far >>> forward makes you support yourself on the bar. >>> >>> Of course there are other reasons for having more saddle setback; >>> pedaling torque is one that I notice -- I find myself scooting back when I >>> want to shove the pedals around at low rpm, for example, when climbing in a >>> fixed gear. >>> >>> And the classic bolt-upright bikes certainly seem to "encourage" a >>> setback saddle. Look at the 3 photos below and see where the saddle nose >>> falls wrt the cranks. >>> >>> The omafiets looks horrible; yet, when I've ridden one -- no more than a >>> few hundred yards -- I have been surprised at how "lively" it feels; though >>> the bars hit my knees when I turn sharply. >>> >>> [image: Inline image 1] >>> >>> [image: Inline image 2] >>> >>> [image: Inline image 3] >>> >>> Ok, ok, yes, this is extreme, but whatta bout this one? Froome, 2016. >>> >>> [image: Inline image 4] >>> >>> On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Eric Karneswrote: >>> Very good question. I have a similar understanding of geometry as I have of macroeconomics. Which is to say, none. So I'll leave the theorizing to others. But I will say (as a few others have opined in other conversations) that I have never been able to get older racing bikes to work well with upright bars. On my mid-eighties Trek for example (73.5 sta and 73 hta), I always felt like all of my weight was resting on my hands. This occurred even with different bars (albatross, jitensha, vo porteur), different stem lengths (everything from 8mm to 12mm), and different bar heights (below, even with, and above the saddle). It turned out the most expensive 200 dollar Craigslist bike I've ever come across. My SimpleOne on the other hand (72 and 72 if I remember correctly), works beautifully with upright bars. Right now it's sporting VO Porteurs even with the saddle height, so it's not like I even have to be bolt upright to be comfortable. It took a little bit of noodling to get it dialed in, but honestly not a whole lot. I'm even thinking of getting a Hilsen with the same tt length and trying out some drop bars (which have always intimidated my long-legged, short-torsoed self). Eric On Wednesday,
Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
How do you find having the saddle all the way affects your reach to the pedals / pedal stroke? On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 5:57:19 PM UTC-4, Eric Karnes wrote: > > Patrick: I've also found the same. I like to be back on the saddle when > cranking at a low rpm. But prefer to be a bit further forward when I'm > spinning with less resistance. Just my (completely unscientific) > observations. > > Rene: For you're sake, lets hope they graded on a curve! I've definitely > found the same. The B17 always needed to be all the way back for me...even > on a Riv. One of the reasons I think I'm more comfortable on the C17. > > As for choosing the bike for drop versus upright... > > I just picked up a used Hilsen for a second bike...Woohoo! I ended up > going with a 61cm, even though Riv sizing says my 89.75 pbh would be better > on a 63. Though there is a bit more seatpost/stem showing then I like, I > went with the 61 for a few reasons: (1) My 62cm SimpleOne fits me perfectly > and shares the same top tube length as the 61 Hilsen. I know Riv downplays > this, but for a long-legged, short-torsoed gentleman like myself, I try to > pay attention to it; (2) I feel like I could use drops or upright bars on > the 61, while the 63 would be too long and require a ridiculously short > stem. Granted, I probably won't put drop bars on it anytime soon, but I > like the feeling that it's possible; and (3) it was available at a good > price and is a beautiful bike. That said, I may live to regret the choice. > But like I say to my students when they ask if something will work, > 'there's only one way to find out.' > > Eric > > On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:52:15 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: >> >> Eric: this agrees with what I read about saddle setback and weight on >> hands; that a butt position behind the bb, no matter how this is achieved, >> makes your torso muscles carry more weight and leaves less on your hands. >> It certainly agrees, too, with my own experience -- a saddle too far >> forward makes you support yourself on the bar. >> >> Of course there are other reasons for having more saddle setback; >> pedaling torque is one that I notice -- I find myself scooting back when I >> want to shove the pedals around at low rpm, for example, when climbing in a >> fixed gear. >> >> And the classic bolt-upright bikes certainly seem to "encourage" a >> setback saddle. Look at the 3 photos below and see where the saddle nose >> falls wrt the cranks. >> >> The omafiets looks horrible; yet, when I've ridden one -- no more than a >> few hundred yards -- I have been surprised at how "lively" it feels; though >> the bars hit my knees when I turn sharply. >> >> [image: Inline image 1] >> >> [image: Inline image 2] >> >> [image: Inline image 3] >> >> Ok, ok, yes, this is extreme, but whatta bout this one? Froome, 2016. >> >> [image: Inline image 4] >> >> On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Eric Karneswrote: >> >>> Very good question. I have a similar understanding of geometry as I have >>> of macroeconomics. Which is to say, none. So I'll leave the theorizing to >>> others. >>> >>> But I will say (as a few others have opined in other conversations) that >>> I have never been able to get older racing bikes to work well with upright >>> bars. On my mid-eighties Trek for example (73.5 sta and 73 hta), I always >>> felt like all of my weight was resting on my hands. This occurred even with >>> different bars (albatross, jitensha, vo porteur), different stem lengths >>> (everything from 8mm to 12mm), and different bar heights (below, even with, >>> and above the saddle). It turned out the most expensive 200 dollar >>> Craigslist bike I've ever come across. >>> >>> My SimpleOne on the other hand (72 and 72 if I remember correctly), >>> works beautifully with upright bars. Right now it's sporting VO Porteurs >>> even with the saddle height, so it's not like I even have to be bolt >>> upright to be comfortable. It took a little bit of noodling to get it >>> dialed in, but honestly not a whole lot. I'm even thinking of getting a >>> Hilsen with the same tt length and trying out some drop bars (which have >>> always intimidated my long-legged, short-torsoed self). >>> >>> Eric >>> >>> >>> >>> On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:37:29 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I
Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
Patrick: I've also found the same. I like to be back on the saddle when cranking at a low rpm. But prefer to be a bit further forward when I'm spinning with less resistance. Just my (completely unscientific) observations. Rene: For you're sake, lets hope they graded on a curve! I've definitely found the same. The B17 always needed to be all the way back for me...even on a Riv. One of the reasons I think I'm more comfortable on the C17. As for choosing the bike for drop versus upright... I just picked up a used Hilsen for a second bike...Woohoo! I ended up going with a 61cm, even though Riv sizing says my 89.75 pbh would be better on a 63. Though there is a bit more seatpost/stem showing then I like, I went with the 61 for a few reasons: (1) My 62cm SimpleOne fits me perfectly and shares the same top tube length as the 61 Hilsen. I know Riv downplays this, but for a long-legged, short-torsoed gentleman like myself, I try to pay attention to it; (2) I feel like I could use drops or upright bars on the 61, while the 63 would be too long and require a ridiculously short stem. Granted, I probably won't put drop bars on it anytime soon, but I like the feeling that it's possible; and (3) it was available at a good price and is a beautiful bike. That said, I may live to regret the choice. But like I say to my students when they ask if something will work, 'there's only one way to find out.' Eric On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:52:15 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: > > Eric: this agrees with what I read about saddle setback and weight on > hands; that a butt position behind the bb, no matter how this is achieved, > makes your torso muscles carry more weight and leaves less on your hands. > It certainly agrees, too, with my own experience -- a saddle too far > forward makes you support yourself on the bar. > > Of course there are other reasons for having more saddle setback; pedaling > torque is one that I notice -- I find myself scooting back when I want to > shove the pedals around at low rpm, for example, when climbing in a fixed > gear. > > And the classic bolt-upright bikes certainly seem to "encourage" a setback > saddle. Look at the 3 photos below and see where the saddle nose falls wrt > the cranks. > > The omafiets looks horrible; yet, when I've ridden one -- no more than a > few hundred yards -- I have been surprised at how "lively" it feels; though > the bars hit my knees when I turn sharply. > > [image: Inline image 1] > > [image: Inline image 2] > > [image: Inline image 3] > > Ok, ok, yes, this is extreme, but whatta bout this one? Froome, 2016. > > [image: Inline image 4] > > On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Eric Karnes> wrote: > >> Very good question. I have a similar understanding of geometry as I have >> of macroeconomics. Which is to say, none. So I'll leave the theorizing to >> others. >> >> But I will say (as a few others have opined in other conversations) that >> I have never been able to get older racing bikes to work well with upright >> bars. On my mid-eighties Trek for example (73.5 sta and 73 hta), I always >> felt like all of my weight was resting on my hands. This occurred even with >> different bars (albatross, jitensha, vo porteur), different stem lengths >> (everything from 8mm to 12mm), and different bar heights (below, even with, >> and above the saddle). It turned out the most expensive 200 dollar >> Craigslist bike I've ever come across. >> >> My SimpleOne on the other hand (72 and 72 if I remember correctly), works >> beautifully with upright bars. Right now it's sporting VO Porteurs even >> with the saddle height, so it's not like I even have to be bolt upright to >> be comfortable. It took a little bit of noodling to get it dialed in, but >> honestly not a whole lot. I'm even thinking of getting a Hilsen with the >> same tt length and trying out some drop bars (which have always intimidated >> my long-legged, short-torsoed self). >> >> Eric >> >> >> >> On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:37:29 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: >>> >>> Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long >>> time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) >>> saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an >>> upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? >>> >>> I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, >>> because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a >>> racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was >>> confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed. >>> >>> The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps >>> Dutch city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, >>> high bb shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've >>> ridden many such bikes and I've watched others
Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
I believe that the super-slack Dutch bikes are as much about in-city utility than 'fit' while riding. With a really laid back seat tube angle, it makes it extremely easy to put your foot on the ground while remaining seated on the saddle. For stop lights and stop signs and such, it's very civilized. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, Ca On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 7:52:15 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote: > > Eric: this agrees with what I read about saddle setback and weight on > hands; that a butt position behind the bb, no matter how this is achieved, > makes your torso muscles carry more weight and leaves less on your hands. > It certainly agrees, too, with my own experience -- a saddle too far > forward makes you support yourself on the bar. > > Of course there are other reasons for having more saddle setback; pedaling > torque is one that I notice -- I find myself scooting back when I want to > shove the pedals around at low rpm, for example, when climbing in a fixed > gear. > > And the classic bolt-upright bikes certainly seem to "encourage" a setback > saddle. Look at the 3 photos below and see where the saddle nose falls wrt > the cranks. > > The omafiets looks horrible; yet, when I've ridden one -- no more than a > few hundred yards -- I have been surprised at how "lively" it feels; though > the bars hit my knees when I turn sharply. > > [image: Inline image 1] > > [image: Inline image 2] > > [image: Inline image 3] > > Ok, ok, yes, this is extreme, but whatta bout this one? Froome, 2016. > > [image: Inline image 4] > > On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 9:12 AM, Eric Karnes> wrote: > >> Very good question. I have a similar understanding of geometry as I have >> of macroeconomics. Which is to say, none. So I'll leave the theorizing to >> others. >> >> But I will say (as a few others have opined in other conversations) that >> I have never been able to get older racing bikes to work well with upright >> bars. On my mid-eighties Trek for example (73.5 sta and 73 hta), I always >> felt like all of my weight was resting on my hands. This occurred even with >> different bars (albatross, jitensha, vo porteur), different stem lengths >> (everything from 8mm to 12mm), and different bar heights (below, even with, >> and above the saddle). It turned out the most expensive 200 dollar >> Craigslist bike I've ever come across. >> >> My SimpleOne on the other hand (72 and 72 if I remember correctly), works >> beautifully with upright bars. Right now it's sporting VO Porteurs even >> with the saddle height, so it's not like I even have to be bolt upright to >> be comfortable. It took a little bit of noodling to get it dialed in, but >> honestly not a whole lot. I'm even thinking of getting a Hilsen with the >> same tt length and trying out some drop bars (which have always intimidated >> my long-legged, short-torsoed self). >> >> Eric >> >> >> >> On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:37:29 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: >>> >>> Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long >>> time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) >>> saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an >>> upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? >>> >>> I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, >>> because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a >>> racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was >>> confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed. >>> >>> The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps >>> Dutch city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, >>> high bb shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've >>> ridden many such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I know for a >>> fact that they very strongly discourage an energetic riding style -- if you >>> try to ride hard, you always (and I see others always) reposition the body >>> to negate the design -- lean forward, grab bar next to stem, sit on nose of >>> saddle). >>> >>> And then there's the gearing: stock on the DL-1 was 46/18 or 72 gi, >>> iirc. Even if 44/18, that's still 68". Even 68" on a very tall, 50 lb bike >>> is damned high. >>> >>> So the design must have been built with a (1) relaxed or energy >>> conserving and (2) ponderous or high torque/low rpm >>> >>> It's hard to understand why the DL-1 remained in production for so long; >>> I don't think that this extended product life can't be explained solely on >>> failing-socialist Indian and Chinese economic practices, or pure inertia. >>> >>> So something about this sort of riding position must work, and therefore >>> one presumes that Raleigh had worked out the riding style, and then the >>> position, and then the angles and lengths that were most efficient with >>> this position. >>> >>>
[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
Also, rode my Macho King yesterday and wasn't as comfortable as on my Sam Marcos, so the other question is what's off in the fit. I'm flexible enough for a lower handlebar setup, but that definitely puts more weight on the bars (if a person is more stretched out) -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
How do drop bars change stem length/setup for those with their seats way, way back? Do you account for that when picking the frame or are there frames where you can do both upright/pull back bars AND drop bars? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
I studied macroeconomics with Eric, and then we both did graduate studies on bike geometry. I can't say that you are all right or wrong, but I can say that on all my Rivendell bikes and also on my custom, which has a slacker head tube, the only position I'm comfortable in is with the extended set back Nitto lugged seat post and the Brooks leather saddles, B17 or B67 pushed fully back. Only then, do I feel my weight is not all resting on my hands. If I could, I might still push them further back a bit. With the C17 on my Atlantis, since the rails are longer, I didn't need to push it all the way to the end. Without the extended set back on the lugged post, which was the main reason for me to go from the 58 Betty to the 60 Cheviot, I cannot get as far back as I need to. Is that because I'm still quite overweight? Maybe. My weight loss which has slipped back noticeably this year, allowed me to lean forward more and get overall more comfortable. I still need that saddle set back quite a bit. Maybe I'm just weird. When I figure the root causes and theories behind it all, I'll make a significant impact on the macroeconomics theory as well. Don't wait standing up for me to figure it out... :-) René On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 8:02 PM, Patrick Moorewrote: > That actually seems to fit with the bikes and the setups discussed. No one > in the world is going to spin a 72" gear, let alone a 96" gear (Sturmey > Archer 3d, 133% of direct) on a DL-1; and the DL-1 has the saddle wy > back. > > And this also fits with what I've heard from racers: when you want to > generate power -- ie, when you are spinning all out -- you are "on the > rivet" -- ie, sitting on the nose of the saddle, where, back when racers > rode Brooks Pros or Swallows, there was a rivet attaching the leather to > the front of the saddle frame. And see the TT and pro road race bikes in > the post immediately prioer to this one. > > I recall setting up what would have been a very nice 1989 Falcon, toute > 531C with cool '80s painted Sante group. This was a bike with long stays > and very short front/center (hard to fit a thumb between 20" tire and down > tube). > > I was chasing KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) with short femurs (my mother > was Filipino) and a liking for full leg extension on the downstroke. I had > to buy a mtb seatpost to get the saddle high enough, and I had the Turbo or > Flite so far forward that it would tilt under my weight; I had to use blue > Loctite on the cradle to hold it level. Of course, this also meant a 140 mm > stem (6" below saddle). > > I was sure fast spinning on the level -- these were the days when I could > maintain 20-21 in a 42/17 with a 20 mm tire -- but downhills were scary, > especially with gusty winds. And, standing on climbs, I'd skip the rear > wheel when I torqued down. (Grant later advised me to get bar up and back, > and saddle back and down; and I've been happy ever since.) Now the lowest I > go on our local 5 mile Tramway climb is 60", and usually 66" -- and I've > done it in a 76" gear. > > On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 7:44 PM, GAJett wrote: > >> For various reasons my main bikes, over 40 years, have always had the >> saddle slammed FORWARD. On my AHH with a Nitto seatpost, the Brooks Pro is >> as far forward as possible. My old Raleigh Competition came with a >> straight seatpost and separate saddle clamp. In this case I was most >> comfortable with the saddle clamp FORWARD of the seatpost, instead of being >> behind. This may have been the result of a too large frame and stem, but I >> find I like to be forward over the bottom bracket allowing me to spin more >> easily. Further back I find I'm more of a stomper, which I've never >> liked. I bike fitter would probably have a field day with my position (if >> not running away crying!). >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
That actually seems to fit with the bikes and the setups discussed. No one in the world is going to spin a 72" gear, let alone a 96" gear (Sturmey Archer 3d, 133% of direct) on a DL-1; and the DL-1 has the saddle wy back. And this also fits with what I've heard from racers: when you want to generate power -- ie, when you are spinning all out -- you are "on the rivet" -- ie, sitting on the nose of the saddle, where, back when racers rode Brooks Pros or Swallows, there was a rivet attaching the leather to the front of the saddle frame. And see the TT and pro road race bikes in the post immediately prioer to this one. I recall setting up what would have been a very nice 1989 Falcon, toute 531C with cool '80s painted Sante group. This was a bike with long stays and very short front/center (hard to fit a thumb between 20" tire and down tube). I was chasing KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) with short femurs (my mother was Filipino) and a liking for full leg extension on the downstroke. I had to buy a mtb seatpost to get the saddle high enough, and I had the Turbo or Flite so far forward that it would tilt under my weight; I had to use blue Loctite on the cradle to hold it level. Of course, this also meant a 140 mm stem (6" below saddle). I was sure fast spinning on the level -- these were the days when I could maintain 20-21 in a 42/17 with a 20 mm tire -- but downhills were scary, especially with gusty winds. And, standing on climbs, I'd skip the rear wheel when I torqued down. (Grant later advised me to get bar up and back, and saddle back and down; and I've been happy ever since.) Now the lowest I go on our local 5 mile Tramway climb is 60", and usually 66" -- and I've done it in a 76" gear. On Wed, Oct 12, 2016 at 7:44 PM, GAJettwrote: > For various reasons my main bikes, over 40 years, have always had the > saddle slammed FORWARD. On my AHH with a Nitto seatpost, the Brooks Pro is > as far forward as possible. My old Raleigh Competition came with a > straight seatpost and separate saddle clamp. In this case I was most > comfortable with the saddle clamp FORWARD of the seatpost, instead of being > behind. This may have been the result of a too large frame and stem, but I > find I like to be forward over the bottom bracket allowing me to spin more > easily. Further back I find I'm more of a stomper, which I've never > liked. I bike fitter would probably have a field day with my position (if > not running away crying!). > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
For various reasons my main bikes, over 40 years, have always had the saddle slammed FORWARD. On my AHH with a Nitto seatpost, the Brooks Pro is as far forward as possible. My old Raleigh Competition came with a straight seatpost and separate saddle clamp. In this case I was most comfortable with the saddle clamp FORWARD of the seatpost, instead of being behind. This may have been the result of a too large frame and stem, but I find I like to be forward over the bottom bracket allowing me to spin more easily. Further back I find I'm more of a stomper, which I've never liked. I bike fitter would probably have a field day with my position (if not running away crying!). On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 7:37:29 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote: > > Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long > time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) > saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an > upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? > > I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, > because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a > racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was > confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed. > > The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps Dutch > city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, high bb > shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've ridden many > such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I know for a fact that > they very strongly discourage an energetic riding style -- if you try to > ride hard, you always (and I see others always) reposition the body to > negate the design -- lean forward, grab bar next to stem, sit on nose of > saddle). > > And then there's the gearing: stock on the DL-1 was 46/18 or 72 gi, iirc. > Even if 44/18, that's still 68". Even 68" on a very tall, 50 lb bike is > damned high. > > So the design must have been built with a (1) relaxed or energy conserving > and (2) ponderous or high torque/low rpm > > It's hard to understand why the DL-1 remained in production for so long; I > don't think that this extended product life can't be explained solely on > failing-socialist Indian and Chinese economic practices, or pure inertia. > > So something about this sort of riding position must work, and therefore > one presumes that Raleigh had worked out the riding style, and then the > position, and then the angles and lengths that were most efficient with > this position. > > Translate this into the upright Rivendells. These have low bbs, so that's > different; they also come with low gearing -- I get the impression that > these favor spinning, and not mashing? > > And the Rivs have startlingly long tts -- to countereffect the rearward > sweep of the bar and the slacker heads? So, this would mean a more > aggressive riding position, and therefore more spirited riding style, than > what the DL-1 was designed for. > > On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Eric Karnes> wrote: > >> My guess that this is mostly a commentary on the use of fairly steep seat >> tube angles (73–75 degrees) on many road/sport/touring bikes from (very >> roughly) the 80s to present. This can make it very hard for some people to >> get a proper weight distribution without slamming the seat back, using an >> ultra-setback seatpost, or a combination of both. I had a mid-eighties Trek >> sport touring bike like this. I loved the way the frame rode, but the 73.5 >> degree sta made it impossible for me to get comfortable. >> >> [...] >> >> >> On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 2:27:41 PM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote: >>> >>> [...] >>> As a follow-up, I saw somewhere Grant writing that people like to slam >>> the seats ALL the way back - is this due to the upright bars / higher than >>> seat bars / upright posture on a bike? >>> >> On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 7:37:29 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote: > > Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long > time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) > saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an > upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? > > I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, > because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a > racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was > confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed. > > The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps Dutch > city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, high bb > shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've ridden many > such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I
[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
Patrick Moore asked two questions. Others were implied but I think these were the three he sincerely meant to ask: 1. do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? In my humble opinion, no. I use the full length mirror to illustrate. Stand in front of the full length mirror, sideways. Bolt upright your head is stacked over your shoulders, down through your spine and hips down to your feet. Keep your spine straight and bend forward. As you bend forward reach your relaxed arms towards imaginary handlebars. As you reach for various different handlebar positions, and different spine and arm positions, look at what your hips are doing. The further down you reach and the further away you reach, the further back your hips need to go. Slack angles allow you to get your hips back more easily. An upright position doesn't need to have your hips get so far back. 2. Or perhaps, an upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? In my opinion, this is incorrect. Its the opposite. You don't need to slam your saddle back on an upright. You need to get your hips back with a sporting riding position. The case for a steep STA is for an aero riding position with aero bars where you rest substantial weight on your forearms. P.S. Grant wrote two things about saddle slamming. First, he noticed that everybody slams their Brooks saddles all the way back, because Brooks saddles have very short rails. Rivendell pretty much single handedly kept Brooks afloat for a while before Brooks became hipster-tweed-cool. Grant wanted to offer frames that did not require 100% of people to slam their Brooks saddles all the way back and handwring that they couldn't go farther. Second, Grant thinks a long setback seatpost and a slammed all the way back saddle just doesn't look good. On all my Rivendells, the saddle is very near the middle of the rails, with normal setback posts, and I think that's a nice look. That's why Rivendells' "long" top tubes are not actually all that long, because you are running your saddle farther forward. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
Very good question. I have a similar understanding of geometry as I have of macroeconomics. Which is to say, none. So I'll leave the theorizing to others. But I will say (as a few others have opined in other conversations) that I have never been able to get older racing bikes to work well with upright bars. On my mid-eighties Trek for example (73.5 sta and 73 hta), I always felt like all of my weight was resting on my hands. This occurred even with different bars (albatross, jitensha, vo porteur), different stem lengths (everything from 8mm to 12mm), and different bar heights (below, even with, and above the saddle). It turned out the most expensive 200 dollar Craigslist bike I've ever come across. My SimpleOne on the other hand (72 and 72 if I remember correctly), works beautifully with upright bars. Right now it's sporting VO Porteurs even with the saddle height, so it's not like I even have to be bolt upright to be comfortable. It took a little bit of noodling to get it dialed in, but honestly not a whole lot. I'm even thinking of getting a Hilsen with the same tt length and trying out some drop bars (which have always intimidated my long-legged, short-torsoed self). Eric On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:37:29 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: > > Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long > time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) > saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an > upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? > > I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, > because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a > racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was > confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed. > > The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps Dutch > city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, high bb > shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've ridden many > such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I know for a fact that > they very strongly discourage an energetic riding style -- if you try to > ride hard, you always (and I see others always) reposition the body to > negate the design -- lean forward, grab bar next to stem, sit on nose of > saddle). > > And then there's the gearing: stock on the DL-1 was 46/18 or 72 gi, iirc. > Even if 44/18, that's still 68". Even 68" on a very tall, 50 lb bike is > damned high. > > So the design must have been built with a (1) relaxed or energy conserving > and (2) ponderous or high torque/low rpm > > It's hard to understand why the DL-1 remained in production for so long; I > don't think that this extended product life can't be explained solely on > failing-socialist Indian and Chinese economic practices, or pure inertia. > > So something about this sort of riding position must work, and therefore > one presumes that Raleigh had worked out the riding style, and then the > position, and then the angles and lengths that were most efficient with > this position. > > Translate this into the upright Rivendells. These have low bbs, so that's > different; they also come with low gearing -- I get the impression that > these favor spinning, and not mashing? > > And the Rivs have startlingly long tts -- to countereffect the rearward > sweep of the bar and the slacker heads? So, this would mean a more > aggressive riding position, and therefore more spirited riding style, than > what the DL-1 was designed for. > > On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Eric Karnes> wrote: > >> My guess that this is mostly a commentary on the use of fairly steep seat >> tube angles (73–75 degrees) on many road/sport/touring bikes from (very >> roughly) the 80s to present. This can make it very hard for some people to >> get a proper weight distribution without slamming the seat back, using an >> ultra-setback seatpost, or a combination of both. I had a mid-eighties Trek >> sport touring bike like this. I loved the way the frame rode, but the 73.5 >> degree sta made it impossible for me to get comfortable. >> >> [...] >> >> >> On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 2:27:41 PM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote: >>> >>> [...] >>> As a follow-up, I saw somewhere Grant writing that people like to slam >>> the seats ALL the way back - is this due to the upright bars / higher than >>> seat bars / upright posture on a bike? >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit
[RBW] Re: Saddle setback, frame angles, riding position, riding style (was: Can we talk about Riv bike sizing again?)
This all seems to make sense to me, but I will wait on others to chime in - I still have questions about seat position and stem lengths - Is there any reason to ride the biggest you can, if you're *not* touring - if I want a 'go fast' Rivendell, do I size down rather than up? Comparing my San Marcos to my Hillborne, the former looks rather small, or the latter looks rather big, but they are also set up differently - doing some measurements however seems like I can ride the Hillborne with drops, with a shorter stem and be fine, albeit probably not as fast as my Macho King On Wednesday, October 12, 2016 at 10:37:29 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: > > Starting a new thread about a topic that has interested me for a long > time, with a question: do slack angles and therefore (all else equal) > saddles well back of bb, work better with upright positions? Or perhaps, an > upright position works best with a rearward saddle and thus slack angles? > > I recall dithering about a nice Dave Moulton, at a very good price, > because of the 74* st angle, and being told that a racing position on a > racing bike means being forward over the crank assembly/bb shell. This was > confirmed by several experienced ex racers. I finally passed. > > The classic bolt upright ride seems to be the Raleigh DL-1, perhaps Dutch > city bikes (but I've no experience with them). Such slack angles, high bb > shell, and ends of grips practically bumping your knees. I've ridden many > such bikes and I've watched others ride them, and I know for a fact that > they very strongly discourage an energetic riding style -- if you try to > ride hard, you always (and I see others always) reposition the body to > negate the design -- lean forward, grab bar next to stem, sit on nose of > saddle). > > And then there's the gearing: stock on the DL-1 was 46/18 or 72 gi, iirc. > Even if 44/18, that's still 68". Even 68" on a very tall, 50 lb bike is > damned high. > > So the design must have been built with a (1) relaxed or energy conserving > and (2) ponderous or high torque/low rpm > > It's hard to understand why the DL-1 remained in production for so long; I > don't think that this extended product life can't be explained solely on > failing-socialist Indian and Chinese economic practices, or pure inertia. > > So something about this sort of riding position must work, and therefore > one presumes that Raleigh had worked out the riding style, and then the > position, and then the angles and lengths that were most efficient with > this position. > > Translate this into the upright Rivendells. These have low bbs, so that's > different; they also come with low gearing -- I get the impression that > these favor spinning, and not mashing? > > And the Rivs have startlingly long tts -- to countereffect the rearward > sweep of the bar and the slacker heads? So, this would mean a more > aggressive riding position, and therefore more spirited riding style, than > what the DL-1 was designed for. > > On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Eric Karnes> wrote: > >> My guess that this is mostly a commentary on the use of fairly steep seat >> tube angles (73–75 degrees) on many road/sport/touring bikes from (very >> roughly) the 80s to present. This can make it very hard for some people to >> get a proper weight distribution without slamming the seat back, using an >> ultra-setback seatpost, or a combination of both. I had a mid-eighties Trek >> sport touring bike like this. I loved the way the frame rode, but the 73.5 >> degree sta made it impossible for me to get comfortable. >> >> [...] >> >> >> On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 2:27:41 PM UTC-4, Belopsky wrote: >>> >>> [...] >>> As a follow-up, I saw somewhere Grant writing that people like to slam >>> the seats ALL the way back - is this due to the upright bars / higher than >>> seat bars / upright posture on a bike? >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.