Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

2016-05-12 Thread Edwin W
That, my friend, is slick!

IF you lived in my neighborhood I would learn a lot from you.

Gotta find a bolt supplier like that in Nashville,

Edwin

On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 6:26:08 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Hi Kevin, 
> I used the diving board mount hole on the rack (and kept it functional).  
> Most important part here is a really good height measurement.  
> I replaced the diving board M5 with a longer M5 pan-head that reaches Just 
> under the fender (of course hole to clear M5 in fender).  
> Beneath the fender is a star lock washer and half-nut.  
> Above the fender is a leather washer, flat washer, star washer and 
> half-nut.  
> Below the diving board is a split lock washer and half nut.  
> Have to tighten all this with a pair of 8mm box-end wrenches.  
> It couldn't be more solid.  
>
> IMy office is near the airport, and the bolt supplier is 2 blocks away 
>  I've rigged kayaks and built bikes from there for years. Show up with a 
> list, and they fill your short order up to a handful of fasteners for $3, 
> which goes into the coffee fund.  Any size made (except maybe M7), any 
> style, they should have it.  
> Regards
>
> On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 4:22:42 AM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>>
>> Ron -
>> That's a pretty neat trick.  How did you do that?
>> Kevin
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

2016-05-12 Thread Ron Mc
Hi Kevin, 
I used the diving board mount hole on the rack (and kept it functional).  
Most important part here is a really good height measurement.  
I replaced the diving board M5 with a longer M5 pan-head that reaches Just 
under the fender (of course hole to clear M5 in fender).  
Beneath the fender is a star lock washer and half-nut.  
Above the fender is a leather washer, flat washer, star washer and 
half-nut.  
Below the diving board is a split lock washer and half nut.  
Have to tighten all this with a pair of 8mm box-end wrenches.  
It couldn't be more solid.  

IMy office is near the airport, and the bolt supplier is 2 blocks away 
 I've rigged kayaks and built bikes from there for years. Show up with a 
list, and they fill your short order up to a handful of fasteners for $3, 
which goes into the coffee fund.  Any size made (except maybe M7), any 
style, they should have it.  
Regards

On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 4:22:42 AM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
> Ron -
> That's a pretty neat trick.  How did you do that?
> Kevin
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

2016-05-12 Thread Kevin Lindsey
Ron -
That's a pretty neat trick.  How did you do that?
Kevin

On Wednesday, May 11, 2016 at 9:15:43 PM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Do you have a front rack?  
>
>
> 
>  
> 
> Here is what I did with Honjos and my front rack
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

2016-05-11 Thread Ron Mc
Do you have a front rack?  


 

Here is what I did with Honjos and my front rack

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Re: [RBW] Re: Trimming a Fender

2016-05-11 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 05/11/2016 05:29 AM, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
Thanks for the excellent feedback.  After reading the posts, I took 
another look at the fender set-up, and still can't really see what 
it's rattling against.  As far as I can tell, it clears the tire and 
front rack by good margins.  I tightened up all associated bolts and 
screws and will see if that makes a difference.


Have you looked at the sides of the fender where it fits through the 
fork?  When I installed the fenders I showed you yesterday on my George 
Longstaff, initially I had a hideous loud rattle that turned out to be 
just that, contact between the edges of the fender and the inside edges 
of the fork crown/fork blades.  It doesn't require a lot of clearance to 
prevent, but at that time I had zero.  With metal fenders, it doesn't 
take a lot of bending of the edges to fix a problem like that.



Next step, assuming I still have this problem, would be to try a 
variation on the idea of an extra stay, and find a way to attach the 
front end to my front rack and see whether that helps.


Rattle or no, if you can see waggling of the front edge of the fender 
you should do this anyway.   I have no idea if it's as lethal to plastic 
fenders as it is to metal ones, but it looks ugly and disturbing and 
it's worth a few bucks to fix it.



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