--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 04:03 PM 8/5/2004 -0500, you wrote:
Hello,
that is one of Lloyd Alcorn's marvels. He showed that design to
me a long
time ago, it is BpBr, between the notch and the pass you should
have a
really good duplexer.
At 11:42 PM 8/5/2004 -, you wrote:
REAL EASY, It's not hard. You haven't seen many BpBr Duplexers have
you?
---Actually, I've seen tons of Batwing ones, Sinclair, even ol' Celwave
ones. Even the newer Wacom ones (now RxTx) have cavities in series, not
parallel.
The pass is tuned with the
Piece of cake here (sorry, dun it before :) )
Pin 2 - Mic Audio (Pre-emphasis)
Pin 3 - PTT (pull to ground to tx, works with link-comm_
Pin 5 - Flat TX Audio (no pre-emp)
Pin 7 - Ground
Pin 8 - CSQ or CSQandPL detect (CSQ and PL detect only works if
microphone H.U.B. input is grounded)
Pin 11 -
Comes off the collector of the 3rd doubler - a coupling capacitor
to the L106/L107/L108 Injection Filter - factory says it is a
2.7 pf.
Neil - WA6KLA
Kevin Custer wrote:
John Sichert wrote:
Did the RX have rated sensitivity on the original operating frequency?
If not, Q104 may
I had a set of copper copper pipe duplexers for 220 years ago. I thinnk they were 4 inch in diameter. I had a stability problem due to temperature changes. They required a "winter tune" and "summer tune" twice a year. I used them for several years and the taught me why I neede to find a good
After talking with the helpful people at Sinclair it appears that the
Q-203d is indeed a wide separation (3MHz) duplexer. Thanks to all
for your help.
73,
KD5TKR
Charles Blythe
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Charles Blythe
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well, in keeping with my
Thanks Neil,
So increasing the value of C138 increases the injection to the
mixer I always thought the UHF Micor suffered from insufficient
drive from the LO anyway.
Kevin Custer
Neil McKie wrote:
Comes off the collector of the 3rd doubler - a coupling capacitor
to the
Joe,
My experience was that with silver
plating, so long as it was reasonably thick (its all
relative) I have had no problem with summer Vs winter tuning. Problems do arise
if the plating is too thin as it tends to peel off inside detuning the
cans and the only short time fix is to
Kevin,
Increasing the cap gives a little more injection, it does make a difference.
I never saw a response if the receiver is working now.
John
At 08:46 PM 8/5/04, you wrote:
Comes off the collector of the 3rd doubler - a coupling capacitor
to the L106/L107/L108 Injection Filter -
I looked at a VHF PD-200 in my garage that I had apart a few years ago, the tip has a small allen screw in it. I think I loosened this screw to get the guts out of the radome. My PD-200 is noisy, this is usually caused by joints that have become intermittant. I was never able to find the bad
The epoxy sealing the three recessed screws on 120 deg centers near the
aluminum mounting tube meets the fiberglass must be removed. The set screw at
top
must be removed and the tip heated with heat gun. Cap will come off. Don't
overheat fiberglass. The complete antenna then can be removed
John Sichert wrote:
Kevin,
Increasing the cap gives a little more injection, it does make a difference.
I'm sure it does. The Micor UHF always seemed to be LO starved in my
opinion.
I never saw a response if the receiver is working now.
Neither did I, but I also gave him the other mods
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