Hey all,
Trying to install the MP front mount. Not sure which way it needs to be
installed. There is a slit in the metal portion of the mount, that allows
the mount to be compressed into the bracket.
Which way should this slit face? Top/bottom/front/rear of bracket? Want
to install
They are 18mm fittings. I bought a special flare nut wrench to break
them loose. Otherwise, try getting at it from behind the K-member.
Ditching the stock ham can pump and using a later ZF (plastic reservoir)
will help alleviate the power steering hose issues in the future.
Simple upgrade, just
They are slightly different internally (different combustion chambers
and timing curves.) Swap the engines and match the distributor and ECU
to the engine and you'll be fine. 86 ECU and distributor for the 86
engine and vise versa. Otherwise the engines are the same externally.
I find it is
There is one here in Portland. It campaigned in the local amateur races
occasionally. It was for sale for about $15K and it included the molds
for the body and some spares. It was the RWD car with the rear mounted
Hewland transaxle and 16-valve 2.0 liter. Very impressive work.
The body panels
The 6-bolt crank was a running change in 85 along with the 11mm head
bolts. Since it's a Shelby Charger, it would have the 5-speed so the
flywheels are easy to find if he needs one as they are the same for all
turbo cars from late 85-93 (excluding the 16-valve motors of course)
The computer and
I have a pair of taillight lenses from a 85 charger body (Shelby) Free
nice condition no cracks, if in Lake Worth Florida Area, Or Shipping and
packaging if out of the area. Also Have a 89 Motor (shortblock no pan
etc) out of a automatic GTC lebarron was running when pulled if in area
also
Ed,
I just wrestled that thing outta' my '87 Shelby Lancer, and it was
a bear to do. I couldn't get the hose off the pump, but managed to get
my (18mm?) flare-nut wrench onto the fitting at the rack, and get it
loose. Wear Mechanix gloves, to prevent damage to your hands.
CORRECTION:
The tapping screw head is 1/2, not 10mm.
Larry
At 10:16 AM 8/12/2004, Larry Carlson wrote:
Ed,
I just wrestled that thing outta' my '87 Shelby Lancer, and it
was a bear to do. I couldn't get the hose off the pump, but managed to
get my (18mm?)
SDMLer's and Iowa Shelby nuts.
I'm hosting an Open Class, All Makes, All Models Car Show on Sunday August
22nd.
It's part of our St Isidore Parish Festival events. Pork Loin Dinner,
Live Auction, Raffle (with real guy stuff like a power washer).
Springville Iowa. Hwy 151 North between Cedar
Left front it's coming from, when I'm over a bump -CLUNK. Strut mounts?
Ball joints are good. Had them replaced today along with my o2 sensor.
Are strut mounts something I can do myself? Another thingI could think of is
the bobble-strut?
88 Shelby Z
T2
A-555
I had the same issue with my 91 Daytona. I noticed it most when I would go
over some railroad tracks near my work. My problem turned out to be bad
bushings on the stabilizer bar. Once the work was complete, it hasn't made
a sound.
Hope this helps.
Mike
PS - I also changed out the strut
http://www.polybushings.com for bars, bushings and strut mounts (KYB)
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 3:41 PM
To: 'joe'; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: SD Clunking noise
I had the same
These really help with the handling on K-based cars
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/csracer/products.html
Combined with a front strut tower brace (Use a Nissan 240SX bar or
buy one from FWD Perforamnce.com) You don't really need to add much
past the stock Daytona Shelby parts to embarass
I can get KYB mounts from work for 23$ if that is the problem. I will try
the bushings first though because they are like 10$ at work. I have a strut
bar already for the front. I think after wheels/tires those 2 pieces will be
next, thanks for the link!
Joe
- Original Message -
From:
Cool. I'd probably get the two pieces first before wheels and tires ;)
Then again, I'm a little weird, HA!
BTW, If you really must have a sway bar on your car, the Quickor units
are much better than stock since they don't bind the suspension under
load. Ever try to move a control arm with just
Yep, it was a whoops! Dis is what I wanted to say originally!
snip
Almost guarantee it's the sway bar bushings. Both my last two Daytona's had
the same problem, and I changed everything on the first one, struts, strut
mounts ball joints and the tie rods, By this time I was pissed, dropped the
Speaking of which, my '92 lebaron has had a low-tone clunk in the front end of it for
28,000 miles now. ever since I got it. Going straight down the road it is solid,
rides nice,etc. No clunk no how big the pot hole. All the joints are solid. The
only time it happens is when I take a
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