Some folks have had reasonable luck with R134.  The fact is that our
systems weren't designed for it.  Besides the H-valve, you need a
compressor in above average shape and a really efficient condensor setup. 
The head pressure needs to be quite high to get the efficiency where it
needs to be.  and our Denso compressors barely survive as it is.

In any case, you need to flush that system out well and replace the
filter/drier.  Otherwise the new compressor will suffer from the "black
death" from the junk left behind by the other dead compressor.  When you
do have it flushed, you have the choice to switch to whatever you want.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] said:
> Stick with the r 12. I changed mine over, it sucks. I replaced the h
> block,
> with one for 134, and replaced the dryer, it cools enough that i dont die
> when
> its raining, but i could run it at full blast all day without feeling cool
> enough. I want to change over to duracool, or back to r 12. I dont care if
> its
> more expensive. I want cold air. My 86 still has r12, it will freeze you
> out. On
> hot days, I have had to roll a window down to warm up again.
>
>
> My 90 Daytona shelby A/C compressor is so hard to turn when it gets
> hot,that
> it trys to stall the engine.I bought a new mopar compressor and dryer.
> Should
> I put R12 back in or change it over to 134? I have enough R12 thats no
> problem.Car only has 11,000 original miles on it.
> Thanks Steve
>
> Joey Dalton
> Hillbilly Racing
> 86 Turbo Z C/S       T Tops      DC intercooled
> 87 Shelby Z   parts car =( T Tops, Fred Flinstone floors, broken rad
> support
> and cracked front subframe.
> 88 Shelby Z     Pacifica/lebaron interior, 3.85 FD a523 with HR short
> throw
> shifter, TAFT S2 cam, 20 PSI, Hillbilly exahust
> 88 Chrysler Shelby Z  T tops
> 89 Daytona C/S compitition
> 66 Dodge Charger
> 76 Dodge D 100 318/auto
> 51 Studebaker Champion 4 door    future father/son project, will be 355
> EFI
> HEMI
>
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Thanks,
Russ

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