RE: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-25 Thread Kurt Zimmerman
Dope based??  could be silk-span.Find yourself a container of dope
thinners to start.  You will find that any dope-based finish be it
silk-span, tissue or silk can be stripped quite easily.  The previous
post works for the most part.  You should be able to soften any stubborn
areas with the dope thinners.  

 

Good luck

 



Kurt

 

From: Craig Allen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:50 AM
To: soaring@airage.com
Subject: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

 

It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years old
so it can't be any type of iron on,  Its not silk, but does apear to be 
dope based

Craig



RE: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread chris
Craig,

If it is dope based, then acetone will work fine.  However, any color in
the dope will probably remain in the wood or seep into the wood.  I
might try nail polish remover, as it has some MEK, which like acetone,
works but is less volatile and may contain some nitromethane.  You might
try methylene chloride or chloroform.  I do not thin isopropyl alcohol
will work, but perhaps some mineral spirits.  Do remember that if there
is any foam, then all this stuff is useless.  I have a Friend who works
alot with nitrate dope and tissue who I will try to contact for more
info.  He is a free flighter from 40 years ago!

Chris

  Original Message 
 Subject: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info
 From: Craig Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Mon, August 18, 2008 7:49 am
 To: soaring@airage.com soaring@airage.com
 It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years old so it 
 can't be any type of iron on,  Its not silk, but does apear to be
 dope based
 Craig

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Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread Chuck Anderson

At 09:49 AM 8/18/2008, you wrote:
It's hard to tell what type of covering it is... It's over 40 years 
old so it can't be any type of iron on,  Its not silk, but does apear to be

dope based

Craig


Skyloft was a popular covering material from the late 60s.  Skyloft 
was a nylon mat material that looked a lot like silkspan but was much 
stronger.  It was applied with dope just like silkspan.  I used it to 
cover several RC pattern models between 1969 and 1974 and even 
covered a free flight wing with skyloft.  If you crashed a built up 
model covered with skyloft, you never needed a trash bag for the 
parts after a crash.  The skyloft served quite well to contain the parts.  :)


Chuck



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Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread Bill Johns

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Craig,

If it is dope based, then acetone will work fine.  However, any color in
the dope will probably remain in the wood or seep into the wood.  I
might try nail polish remover, as it has some MEK, which like acetone,
works but is less volatile and may contain some nitromethane.  You might
try methylene chloride or chloroform. 


This is a list of some rather nasty chemicals, i.e. carcinogenic, 
mutanogenic, or simply poisonous.  Please to be careful, wear gloves 
(not latex) and lots and lots of ventilation.


Bill Johns
Colton, WA
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Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread Bill Swingle

Hold on there!

Carcinogenic, mutanogenic, poisonous!

So, should I be worrying about the times (as a kid) that I used acetone as a 
hand cleaner to remove things like grease and fiberglass resin? Concerned 
modelers want to know. Well this one at least.


Bill Swingle
Janesville, CA


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Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread Craig Allen
That's the least of my problems... Didn't you clean old quarters with mercury?
used Acetone, Naphtha, jet fuel, and anything else we could find to clean our 
hands...
and the worst of all... Film cleaner (triclorethane 1,1,1)  in a ultrasonic 
tank.

Our old house would probably be put on the Superfund list if they ever tested 
it :-)))



- Original Message 
From: Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bill Johns [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Craig Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; soaring@airage.com
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 3:41:23 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

Hold on there!

Carcinogenic, mutanogenic, poisonous!

So, should I be worrying about the times (as a kid) that I used acetone as a 
hand cleaner to remove things like grease and fiberglass resin? Concerned 
modelers want to know. Well this one at least.

Bill Swingle
Janesville, CA


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Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread Bill Johns

Bill Swingle wrote:

Hold on there!

Carcinogenic, mutanogenic, poisonous!

So, should I be worrying about the times (as a kid) that I used acetone 
as a hand cleaner to remove things like grease and fiberglass resin? 
Concerned modelers want to know. Well this one at least.


Sheiiish, here we go.  I was not referring to acetone.  I was pointing 
at the chlorinated hydrocarbons (methylene chloride or chloroform) and 
nitromethane.  These can be bad actors.


Simply because you've used a lot of stuff in the past that we now know 
is evil and you are still alive doesn't mean it's safe.


As chair of the department safety committee I've learned to be anal 
about certain things.


If you smoke tobacco forget everything I've mentioned above, it's 
already too late.


If you don't smoke, have used all those evil chemicals and are still 
alive, don't think you're getting off free.  Do you still have all your 
hair?  Do you hit every one of your landings?  Can you sleep 12 hours 
without having to get up to pee?  If you can't answer YES to each of 
those questions, all those chemicals are getting to you!   So There!!!

;-)


Cheers,

Bill

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Re: [RCSE] Removing old covering, more info

2008-08-18 Thread MSu1049321

What worked for me was a combination of sanding/buffing discs on   a Dremel 
tool.   Friction did cause some monokote color to meld into the surface of the 
wood, but I was using opaque for the refinish, so it didn't matter in my case. 
  

Instead of caustic chems, I have a theory: consider a heavy glove and a chunk 
of dry ice from the local ice cream shop or megamart. Try rubbing the chunk 
of dry ice on the edges of the covering. In theory, it should cause the mylar 
and glue to contract, embrittle, and crack off, the wood should shrug it off, 
and the glue joints will   likely hold if not directly touched.

Mark S.




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