Im working on the 1979 Spitfire (California model) that I got a couple of
months ago. The emissions system is pure stock. I have a few last problems
Im trying to sort out (at least I hope these are the last)
Overdrive I got this working by replacing the solenoid and gear shift
switch and topping up the gear oil. But after I totally reassembled the
interior, the OD stopped working shortly after. Arghhh I did notice that
one of the wires going to the gear shift switch was a little frayed although
it lit my test lamp without any problem. I cut, restripped and re-crimped
the wire and the OD came back but I dont know if its a intermittent
problem or I fixed it. Does the solenoid need some minimum amount of
current to work and possibly the frayed wire was enough to light the test
lamp but not engage the solenoid? Does that sound reasonable (he asked
hopefully)?
Carb I have a random low speed stumble that seems unrelated to anything
else. Its bad enough to stall the car when starting from a stop. The
other day, the car wouldnt start at all and I traced it to a stuck air
valve in the carb. I was unable to lift it with my finger and had to pry it
up with a screwdriver. Once it "unstuck", there was no further sticking. I
dissembled the carb and as best as I can tell, theres no place that it
should be sticking, everything is smooth and now moves easily by hand. But
who knows whats happening in there when Im actually driving? What causes
the air valve to stick and what can I do about it? (FYI, the ignition
system on the car - wires, distributor, ignition module - were all taken
from my old car where they worked fine. The plugs were cleaned and gapped.
I replaced the fuel filter and checked the floats for height and for
gasoline in them. I know that most carb problems are really ignition
problems but it seems that if I had an air valve sticking once for sure and
Im still getting symptoms like a sticking air valve, then I probably still
have a sticking air valve).
Thanks in advance!
Greg
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