Salty,
I think it would work. The only problem would be having the wax "back-up" past the
plunger into the linkage. Have you seen the heated, air pressure operated wax
'shooters'? It looks like a crock pot with a sealed lid. There is a pipe that the wax
comes out, and a fitting where the air
How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping it?
I would pour/draw some woods metal into the pipe before bending. The woods metal will
help to keep the diameter, and melts around 300 deg F, so it will come out easily with
a propane torch. I've seen woods metal
GROSS, Dowler, GROS. Even Lunkenheimer turned up his nose at that!
I don't yet have a superheater, but I have modified my original safety valve
as follows. Find a small washer, or combination of washers, that total 1.0
mm in thickness. Use this washer(s) to shim the safety valve spring. In
other words, put the washer(s) between the spring and the little "e"
At 12:00 AM 3/15/01 -0800, you wrote:
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 07:13:20 -0600
From: Chris wolcott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Soldering Question
heat the work (Copper-Brass) until it glowed. Is this normal? I'm
concerned that I'm going to melt something besides the solder doing
this.
Chris,
I used to be forman in a pipe fabrication shop, and this same method was
used for bending pipe in the 2" to 6" diameter range. We used a vibratory
system to pack the sand in the pipe before heating and bending on a hydralic
bending machine.
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi,
For those with an axle pump fitted on their Mikado...
Has anyone routed the copper pipes under the tender so that they channel
through the gap for the alcohol sump and terminate in the space occupied
by the 17-3 drawbar pin and 17-2 spring? This would seem most practical
for the water
Harry Wade wrote:
snip
I would propose that the keeper of the patterns make rubber or RTV
silicon molds of the patterns, cast them in wax and make permanent metal
patterns.
The "pattern" I offered to donate is already cast in silicon bronze.
royce w
At 07:37 AM 3/15/01 -0800, you wrote:
Harry Wade wrote:
I would propose that the keeper of the patterns make rubber or RTV
silicon molds of the patterns, cast them in wax and make permanent metal
patterns.
royce w
Nope, I did not make that statement. A costly, labor intensive
process like
At 07:37 AM 3/15/01 -0800, you wrote:
The "pattern" I offered to donate is already cast in silicon bronze.
royce w
Royce,
I'll assume for the moment that this pattern was made from an original
master. Did the development of the master take into consideration double
shrinkage? Just curious.
Clark Lord wrote:
Harry Wade wrote:
I could not begin to guess the number of people that are into scratch
building
Are you (list member) scratch building now?
Yes. 1:20.3 Southern Pacific Narrow Gauge #18
Are you contemplating starting?
Every day I think about working on it.
Actually, I meant Kevin (not Trent) as having the Philidelphias.
Kevin Strong wrote:
Well, I've got three Argyle
"Philadelphia" kits sitting in the basement waiting to be built
royce w
I was hoping to be able to compare superheated/non-superheated Rubys at DH,
but most there were unsuperheated, and seemed to run quite nicely. I do get
a great deal of condensate out of the stack, but I don't know if
superheating would have much effect on that. It's only slightly less messy
than
From Harry's posting, first time I've heard about Small Scale Steam
Hobbyist magazine.
Just looked up their spot on Vance Bass' site.
Alas it's not cheap.
To Canada $45 for four issues ($24 in the US).
Which is C$ 70, plus tax and maybe mailing costs (?).
So about C$20+ an issue.
A bit too rich
Try the Dubro tubing benders 1/8 and 5/32 just bought one and it works far
better than the spring benders I was using before. Makes perfect bends with
very little effort. Getting the spring benders off the tubing has always
been a frustrating operation. They can be found in the Airplane
Harry Wade wrote:
Did the development of the master take into consideration double
shrinkage?
Harry,
Well, it was supposed to have. But I relied on "industry estimates" of
shrinkage of about 4%, which is not entirely accurate. I actually built in 2
- 4% plus 2 - 1% factors for the
In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write:
How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping
it?
I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier (Portland OR)
that I bent,cold, around a 1/2" dowel pin using a bender that I fabricated.
I made
At 08:57 AM 3/15/01 -0800, you wrote:
What are the concerns with using brass in a boiler?
Steve Ciambrone
Steve,
Over time (sometimes not a very long time) the zinc will leach out of
brass leaving it pourous. The basic underlying concern is safety and the
soundness of the pressure vessel.
At 09:51 AM 3/15/01 -0800, you wrote:
So my driver came out too thin. Which is why the pattern is "available".
Royce
If one knows this going in then accomodations for the diffferences can
be made. Then again the pattern could be built up with wax or other
material as needed to bring it
At 02:42 PM 3/15/01 EST, you wrote:
In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write:
I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier that I bent cold,
Coming from the large scale end of the hobby, where the size of steam
supply passages are a consideration (not a worry, just a
How do you define 'Unobstructed'? Is a fairly tight (1") radius bend in an
1/8" tube an obstruction, or are you primarily referring to 90 angles and
restrictions in diameter?
I would think a large line leading to a smallish cylinder (Such as a RUBY)
would 'overload' it, making it nearly
In a message dated 3/15/2001 11:35:56 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The
catalog does not say at what pressure that they operate but I would
imagine
it would be rather low
I use an airbrush compressor for mine. About 25# pressure.
Bob
Joe,
I crossed mine over in an X shape to make things easier to work with, and
alignment was much better.
Walt
Doing the hobby at work did not pan out for me. Everytime I had something set
up in the milling machine or one of the lathes, a paying job would come in
and I'd have to take down my hobby setup and do work for money. As a result I
now have an Enco 9x42 variable speed mill with DRO. The three
For those of you that have not seen it happen, the dezincification of brass
is very common and can be a real pain the posterior. Brass is basically a
mixture of copper and zinc. We are all familiar with the color of copper, and
zinc is grey/white. As you mix the two colors together you get the
Walt,
I crossed mine, too. With the drawbar, there are two settings, close
and not-as-close. I can't set it for close-couple without looping some
of the hose into that space occupied by the drawbar pin and spring;
otherwise, the hose kinks - at least it does for mine. The looping
provides for
At 05:23 PM 3/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
Was this the lathe also sold as a "Star" lathe?
Keith
I see or hear of these machines all over and I'm surprised at how many
of them are still in almost daily use. I have a friend here who has one
that was his grandfathers and who has built two 7-1/2"
From what I've been able to find out, the Star was a later version, but I'm
not certain. Obviously this one was belt driven from a jack shaft. When I got
it looked like it had been in the navy. It is mounted on a bench made of
heavy angle and has drawers with gravity drop notches to prevent
Keith,
That PW Size O sounds like a real gem. A good friend of mine had a little
Logan that he had set up to do everything a lathe could ever be asked to do.
I would have dearly loved to have owned it when he passed away, but
fortunately his son wanted it and I'm very glad he has it. His Dad
I made my hoses do a little 'loop' that gives enough movement for negotiating
curves and also allowing for close or distant coupling. Doesn't look so good
up close, but when the Mike is out there on the track and I'm in the
ergonomic, hydraulic controlled reclining device with a cup of
At 02:50 PM 3/15/01 -0600, you wrote:
How do you define 'Unobstructed'?
Chris,
I would define an obstruction as something like a steam tube was
flattened (but not collapsed) in making a tight bend, or where steam maybe
has to pass through a paper thin slit between the cylinder head and block
I found the link I was looking for regarding the sling shot effect.
Spin casting, I know spin casting is used predominantly by the jewelry industry due
to the inherent
small size of the castings. It would probably work wonders for our scale too. Making a
spin caster would be fairly easy.
My ENCO only goes up to 3400 rpm. I very rarely ever go up there. Most is
done between 500 and 1500 rpm. The CNC guys would say the machine was STOPPED
at anything under three grand!
Walt
gang:
please take note of these items from the guidelines
(http://45mm.com/sslivesteam_guide.html):
*Keep postings as short as possible. People are flooded with
information every day. If you want to be noticed, much less heard,
you need to keep it brief.
*If you include quoted material,
Hi Geoff,
I have also seen the flaired springs, but not in small gauge sizes. So
I use small parrallel springs. They are ok for the small amount of bending
I need to do. The Dubro tube bender from airplane or boat model shops looks
good also.
Am I the only other person who
With all of this talk about the pattern pool and scratchbuilding and wheels
I would like to raise the question of plans. Where did they come from and
if you made them would you be willing to share them/sell them? A plan pool?
Ian
You can get the spring type tubing benders from MicroMark. They're less
than $10 for a set of four.
regards,
-vance-
Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
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