Hello Everyone,
I'm about to build a superheater for my Ruby and wanted to know if
there was anything that anyone has discovered that they would do
differently if doing it again.
The first Ruby superheater that I built, I just placed a union in the
line between the displacement lubri
Tony,
It's a done deal! bring it to Sacramento in July--and the steamup is on-you
can drive it! I'll report on the Dubro to the list. Ran my Aster BR Pannier
today in the No Cal drizzle--ran so well. My friend brought his S/B F/L
vertical boiler logging loco and his 0-4-0 S/.B F/L saddle ta
Another way to bend tubing, I'm told, is to fill it with "CerroBend"(sp?) or
one of the other low melting point alloys. Once the bend is complete,
boiling watter will clean out the alloy. Charles
Hi Geoff,
If you really want a Dubro Tube bender, I will track one down for you
in the Bay Area and send you one. For Free.
One minor condition;- A steamup on your 3.5" Britannia when we
travel to your area during our RV trips.
Tony D.
At 07:58 PM 3/16/01 -0800, Geoff Spence
Yes Tony et al,
On tubing bending and springs, I also like Walt's sand idea which I'm
going to try next time. I'll have to look for those Dubro tube benders too,
but this area doesn't have a hobby shop of any consequence AT ALL.
Guy Fawkes and Catherine wheels"! Ah nostalgia!
Rule Britannia
> > to bend the steam feed line up against the
> > bottom of the boiler, and clamp it there with the boiler bands.
>
> Wouldn't this ensure contact with a surface in contact with water (vs steam)? I
> realize that the air will likely be cooler than the boiler shell, but the heat
>transfer
> wi
One thing to take into account is that the temp required to boil the water
raises as the presure does. Water in the boiler might be hotter than
steam outside it. {:)
Trot, the unsure, fox...
On Fri, 16 Mar 2001, Royce Woodbury wrote:
> VR Bass wrote:
>
> > to bend the steam feed line up aga
Harry (I think) wrote:
> Regardless of the size of the line
> you are only going to have as much steam in the line as you admit through
> the throttle.
I'll let you into a secret. The reason that the Catatonk 24T Shay refuses
to go faster than about 20mph, no matter how much steam you try to gi
VR Bass wrote:
> to bend the steam feed line up against the
> bottom of the boiler, and clamp it there with the boiler bands.
Wouldn't this ensure contact with a surface in contact with water (vs steam)? I
realize that the air will likely be cooler than the boiler shell, but the heat transfe
The big problem in the Ruby is the steam feed line, which just hangs out in
the open under the boiler, radiating heat into the open air. One thing I did
when tarting up my Ruby was to bend the steam feed line up against the
bottom of the boiler, and clamp it there with the boiler bands. I fig
Also, Bob has 'em at Sulpher Springs. Got mine there.
- Original Message -
From: "VR Bass" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: URL for Ruby SUPERHE
Harry Wade wrote:
>What I'd think will affect the extent of expansion more
> than anything else will be the amount of cooling of steam taking place
> along that same path.
>
Well said, Harry.
royce w
Chris Wolcott wrote:
> I would think a large line leading to a smallish cylinder (Such as a RUBY)
> would 'overload' it, making it nearly impossible to let the expansion of the
> steam be a factor in powering the engine.
I suspect that there is a trade off between an unobstructed feed (slow st
You can get the spring type tubing benders from MicroMark. They're less
than $10 for a set of four.
regards,
-vance-
Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
Hi Geoff,
I have also seen the flaired springs, but not in small gauge sizes. So
I use small parrallel springs. They are ok for the small amount of bending
I need to do. The Dubro tube bender from airplane or boat model shops looks
good also.
Am I the only other person who understood
At 02:50 PM 3/15/01 -0600, you wrote:
>How do you define 'Unobstructed'?
Chris,
I would define an obstruction as something like a steam tube was
flattened (but not collapsed) in making a tight bend, or where steam maybe
has to pass through a paper thin slit between the cylinder head and block
How do you define 'Unobstructed'? Is a fairly tight (1") radius bend in an
1/8" tube an obstruction, or are you primarily referring to 90 angles and
restrictions in diameter?
I would think a large line leading to a smallish cylinder (Such as a RUBY)
would 'overload' it, making it nearly impossib
At 02:42 PM 3/15/01 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write:
>I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier that I bent cold,
Coming from the large scale end of the hobby, where the size of steam
supply passages are a consideration (not a worry, just a
Brilliant Walt--Thanks!~ Just hope I can remember!
Geoffr
Hi,
>possible #5: If the diameter is large enough, fill the tube with dry fine
>sand. Plug both ends so the sand does not run out. Works like magic. I have
>used this to evenly bend 1"x2"x1/8" wall aluminum tube into a U shape just
>wide
Yes Tony,
I even have a set of springs designed for tube bending-The springs are
flared at the end for easy insertion of the tubing. Unfortunately, I have
had them a long time and don't recall where I got them. However they must
be available somewhere!
Geoff.
Hi Vance,
> Reference tube
In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write:
<< How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping
it?
>>
I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier (Portland OR)
that I bent,cold, around a 1/2" dowel pin using a bender that I fabricated.
I m
: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
A tool I found very helpful in bending copper tubing
is a spring device available through most hardware
stores. The device is sized for the od of the tubing
you want to bend. In operation you feed the tube
through the spring and
AIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
> Hi,
> possible #5: If the diameter is large enough, fill the tube with dry fine
> sand. Plug both ends so the s
There is a company in Bellefont, PA that makes alloys that melt as low as 195
degrees F. The material is called Cerabend Alloy, or maybe Serabend.
I've used it and it is great, but sand is cheaper.
Walt
Hi,
possible #5: If the diameter is large enough, fill the tube with dry fine
sand. Plug both ends so the sand does not run out. Works like magic. I have
used this to evenly bend 1"x2"x1/8" wall aluminum tube into a U shape just
wide enough to be a tunnel portal frame.
Walt
> How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping it?
I would pour/draw some woods metal into the pipe before bending. The woods metal will
help to keep the diameter, and melts around 300 deg F, so it will come out easily with
a propane torch. I've seen woods metal av
Hi Vance,
Reference tube bending without kinks.
1. For cold bending small bore copper brass or
stainless tube, I pass the tube through
a length of tightly wound coil spring. Then bend tube over a
mandrel or by hand.
The coils prevent the tube diameter distorti
> Would the K&S stainless tubing gain any workability by heating it like we
> sometimes do to copper to anneal it?
I believe this only works on copper (and its compounds) and aluminum. Iron
and steel can only be annealed by heating really hot and then cooling very,
very slowly. This requir
"M. Paterson" wrote:
>
> A tool I found very helpful in bending copper tubing
> is a spring device available through most hardware
> stores. The device is sized for the od of the tubing
> you want to bend. In operation you feed the tube
> through the spring and then bend the spring with
> tubing
A tool I found very helpful in bending copper tubing
is a spring device available through most hardware
stores. The device is sized for the od of the tubing
you want to bend. In operation you feed the tube
through the spring and then bend the spring with
tubing captured inside around a form. This
Vance and everyone,
Ok, this is one of those things that I should know, but don't.
Would the K&S stainless tubing gain any workability by heating it like we sometimes
do to copper to anneal it? I sincerely hope that's not a stupid question.
Later,
Trent
(Stop laughing.)
VR Bass wrote:
>
VR Bass wrote:
> > How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping it?
>
> The easiest way is probably to find a really big bolt, one with a pitch diameter
> the same as your intended coil. Use the threads to guide the bend and to
> support the sides without putting pres
> Do you cut the steam line on the outflow side of the lubricator, then bend
> it around towards the backhead and down the flue? I take it that this does
> not interfere with removing the burner for cleaning?
That's one way of doing it. I would not cut the line, but rather make an insert,
wit
I think Clark Lord posted some photos of Kevin O'Connor's superheater in
place. No plans. I don't think you really need plans, though, and the fact that
there are three or four substantially different superheater types out there in
Rubies seems to confirm this.
All you need is a way to route
Check Steam in the Garden. The mag carried an article
mid last year on Ruby mods. As for access, contact
Sulphur Springs as Bob was considering carrying a few.
Sulphur Springs has been a good source of add on or
after-market parts for several different engines.
mp
--- Chris wolcott <[EMAIL PROTE
I have seen several Live Steam forums discussing adding a SUPER-HEATER
to the AccuCraft RUBY, but none have referenced any URLs where someone
can see actual plans/material lists/instructions. If someone out there
knows where I could find this (or any other RUBY mods) I'd appreciate it
if you coul
First, I am not an expert by any sense of the word. These are some of
my observations made while kit-bashing my Ruby. I have superheated my Ruby
conversion (Rosey) with a single straight piece of stainless steel tubing
through the flue. I tried a four turn coil but had a lot of difficu
"David M. Cole" wrote:
> Didn't Kevin increase the size of the gas tank on his Ruby? Considerably?
Yes he did. The original prototype tank was very small and could
sustain only about 10 minutes of burner time. So Kevin doubled the size
and reworked the burner. His suggestions have been incorpo
At 10:49 AM -0800 12/14/99, Clark Lord wrote:
>Kevin
>now gets over 30 minutes per tank of gas. He uses a goodall type valve
>to keep the boiler topped up.
As Chairman Kaga says, "If memory serves ..."
Didn't Kevin increase the size of the gas tank on his Ruby? Considerably?
---
Dave Cole
> > Perhaps there's something about the burner in your engine?
>
> And what would there be about the burner? How does one improve a burner?
If Jim's safety valve is lifting after 5 min., then his burner is
performing the same as all the others. His problem seems to be
with excessive condensa
On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, VR Bass wrote:
[ Snip ]
>
> Perhaps there's something about the burner in your engine?
And what would there be about the burner? How does one improve a burner?
Related to this, what do jet numbers on burners mean? Is there a
translation to size of hole? Why would you
Vance, Clark, Jim, et al
It is obvious to me that my engine didn't run as effectively "out of the box"
as yours. For clarification -- HOW LONG FROM THE TIME THE SAFETY LIFTED UNTIL
THE ENGINE RAN?
My safety "lifted" in about 5 ½ - 6 minutes but the engine didn't start
moving for another 6
Just for the record, my Ruby ran fine out of the box. Easily lighted, steam
pop-off in 5 min., run for about 20min. It pulls 12 LGB 2 axle cars easily.
Small "O" ring adjustment stopped small leak. Very noticable is lots of water
through the stack till warmed up.A fantastic value for a nice loco!
In a message dated 12/14/99 12:30:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< 'll be glad to answer specific questions on or off line as the subject
demands.
Jim Crabb
Houston, Texas
>>
Any pictures forthcoming.
Roger Cutter
White Hall, MD
Clark wrote
> Boy, that doesn't square with what I've experienced with 5 different
> Ruby's here in Nevada. All of them raise steam in 5 minutes or so from
> cold. Faster after the first run. All of them get around 20 minutes of
> burner time.
Jim, my experience was just about identical to Cla
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...snip...
> Although the burn time remains about the same for "Ruby" at 18-22 minutes;
> now the steamup time is about 8 ½ minutes with about 13 minutes "run" time.
> Before this operation the "steamup" time was closer to 14 minutes and the
> "run" time was less than 8 mi
In a message dated 12/14/99 8:12:33 AM Central Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Why do you reckon adding the superheater has reduced the "steamup" time
from 14 to 8 1/2 minutes ?
One wouldn't expect it to change.
But certainly the Run time should be longer with a superheater, >>
ultiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Ruby superheater
> Date: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 12:29 AM
>
> I have a super heater installed compliments of Charlie Mynhier who
couldn't
> stand to watch how poorly "Ruby" was performing init
I have a super heater installed compliments of Charlie Mynhier who couldn't
stand to watch how poorly "Ruby" was performing initially. My original
pictures didn't turn out very well because I wasn't prepared and didn't have
a macro lens. I plan to disassemble the engine and retake the picture
Has anyone had any experience with installing a superheater in a Ruby? If
so, could you please share your information, photos, sources etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Randy Roberts
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