Hi,
I need to mount my US windmill model in G scale made
of galvanized steel. I intend to solder 4 brass angles
at the bottom, cut them open, bend them so that they
are level with the ground, then solder them onto
pieces of copper that will be attached with brass wood
screws to a piece of wood.
Unless you clean all the galvinizing off you will not be able to solder, and,
besides, the fumes created by heating the plating is highly toxic. So your
best bet is to stick to mechanical means of attachment.
Bob Starr
Bob is right -- your best option is a mechanical fastener.
You CAN solder galvanized, however, and it works quite well. It is perfectly safe if
you're
using a soldering iron, which doesn't heat up the zinc enough to be dangerous. You DO
NOT want to use a flame to solder it, however, as that
I'm new to Live Steam and soldering with silver solder. The few times
I've done it so far, I've used a propane torch like you'd use to solder
water pipe, and to get the silver solder to melt I've had to heat the
work (Copper-Copper/Copper-Brass) until it glowed. Is this normal? I'm
concerned
In a message dated 14/03/01 16:05:56 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
until it glowed. Is this normal?
Yes. Needs to be this hot. You will notice when it is hot enough as the
solder will 'flash' into the joint. It is better in the dark as the Bishop
said to the Chorus girl.
HI Chris
This is quite normal - the temperature of silver solder varies depending on the
hardness of the solder.
The higher the hardness the higher the working temperature. This also has the
advantage of starting with the
hardest and finishing with the softest if you have multiple soldering to
HI Chris
re: other parts coming loose - rubbing rouge on the previous joints - red greasy
paste sold by most jewellery suppliers.
This keeps the silver solder from running on existing joints - the pickle solution
will remove all the build up - I use a warm Alum solution for pickling (
