At 10:52 PM 4/1/04 -0600, you wrote:
I know some don't like to use them because they are difficult to repair
if a leak should occur but I was not aware there were other 'concerns'
Pete H
That's pretty much it. But they can be made as relatively
bullet-proof as any other part of the
At 11:14 AM 4/2/04 +0100, you wrote:
Hi Harry
Long time no see - maybe I will make it to your neck of the woods next time
:-)
Or me to yours, . . . . again. Is The Bridge still standing? :-)
Regards,
Harry
At 11:09 PM 4/2/04 +0800, you wrote:
Hi All. - In the case of horizontal centre flue boilers -
Jim describes the ways of reducing or eliminating cross-tube problems
very well. I expand on those ideas to include increasing tube wall
thickness and careful location with respect to the heat
At 10:41 AM 4/2/04 -0800, you wrote:
I have never built a boiler. A scrap metal place nearby often has thick
walled copper pipe the right diameter for a boiler.
Gary,
It doesn't need to be all that thick, in 2 diameter copper
either a Type L (@ .070 wall) or Type M (.058) will be
At 07:29 AM 4/5/04 -0400, you wrote:
At least until Harry sits down and writes one! ;-)
Terry Griner
Terry,
Can't say as I haven't thought about it but technical writing and
illustration is much more time consuming than it looks and the publication
costs vs return don't justify the time and
At 07:22 AM 4/15/04 -0700, you wrote:
i think maybe everybody's over at the new steamup.com message board ;-)
\dmc
Not surprising. For those of us old enough to remember when the
first local television station began broadcasting we sat for hours watching
the test pattern, waiting for the
At 09:18 AM 4/15/04 -0600, you wrote:
and I recall that the dogwoods and redbuds in Nashville were blossoming
around this time of year,
Only 48 hours ago we had feezing temperatures and 4 of snow in
outlying areas (and I'm in an outlying area.) Today, bright sunshine and
the mid-70's, and
At 10:09 AM 4/15/04 -0700, you wrote:
my father plowed the 15000 acres by hand--
He never sprung for the big Fowler rig? (or even a little Fowler rig?)
At 02:34 PM 4/15/04 -0700, you wrote:
This sounds to me as though someone out there has Clark and a few
other people in their Outlook Express address book. A virus got ahold
of those names and addresses and then sent everyone in the address
book spam, picking Clark's and others' names to forge
At 11:09 AM 4/17/04 -0700, you wrote:
How wrong am I ???
Geoff.
Geoff,
On this count I agree. I was taught that all flame was oxidizing
vapor, but on the vaporizing burner business I think you'll all find that's
a very, very old idea. Long forgotten (almost) or at least superceded, so
it
At 09:02 AM 4/22/04 -0700, you wrote:
I am making a cab for locomotive, in the process of silver soldering the
cab the metal ( brass and copper ) have lost there hardness . I am looking
for information on how to re harden the metal . Thanks
Paul Gamlin
Paul,
Sorry . . . but brass and
did have marker
lamps, say up to three on front, so you could equip your loco with powered
marker lamps and not offend any sensibilities, most of them anyway.
Regards,
Harry Wade
Having been raised to believe that man shall not live by Ga1 bread
alone I've been going like mad on my 7-1/2 ga TICH. Should anyone be
interested progress can be monitored at
http://community.webshots.com/user/gwrdriver
One of these days before long I will need the services of a
At 09:55 AM 5/2/04 -0600, you wrote:
Ask and you may find that everyone will do it.
-vance-
Vance,
I think most automotive castings are done this way now, certainly
engines, manifolds, and such, and apparently it's a technique which makes
moulding for the home foundryman much easier as
At 06:30 PM 5/2/04 -0600, you wrote:
Right, Harry, I understand. But just because he hasn't heard of it doesn't
mean it couldn't be done.I know it can be done because my caster has
done it. I would call the fellow back
Vance,
You'll have to accept for the moment that I thoroughly
At 09:50 PM 5/2/04 -0500, you wrote:
Here is my Casting froup on Yahoo
http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/castinghobby
There are several of us that are into lost foam casting
Clint
Thanks, maybe someone on that group would consider taking on a little job.
Regards,
Harry
At 09:59 AM 5/21/04 -0600, you wrote:
Does anyone know what size brass rod/wire one would use for threading to
0-80? My initial thought of 1/16,
Kevin,
You're pretty close. The standard diameter for 0-80 is .060, or
1/16 for all intents and purposes. The 0 is a U.S. machine screw size,
Kevin,
Sorry I didn't get to you sooner with this message:
.055 wire . . . It's pretty hard stuff, but shouldn't be harder than the
die.
Depends. If it's piano or music or spring wire, and my bet is
that it is, it's very hard and you could ruin your carbon steel die and I
wouldn't
At 05:44 PM 5/24/04 -0400, you wrote:
To blue small screws, . . . a can filled with old drain oil from the car.
That's the way I do it. I tip 'em into the oil, red hot. It kind of
stinks for a bit but the blue is a beautiful blue-black.
Regards,
Harry
At 05:53 PM 5/24/04 -0500, you wrote:
Would this work for making side-rods with that loverly patina seen on the
full size beasts? They are a medium brown polished look from years of
being annealed annually for stress relief.
It could. The hot-dip-in-oil process leaves a coating of dead
At 12:08 AM 5/25/04 -0500, you wrote:
Warpage indeed... I'll end up with pretzels for main-rods for sure!
Trot, the twisted, fox...
I simply don't see the problem . . . . . you have a big ball pein
hammer . . . you have a flat rock . . . .?
Regards,
Harry
You all will hear soon enough I think but sadly Arthur Walker passed away
yesterday.
Regards,
Harry
At 05:52 PM 5/25/04 +0200, you wrote:
you don't see any problems with that big ball pein hammer?
According to a few of the mechanics who've worked on my cars it's a
precision instrument.
Regards,
Harry
At 07:29 PM 5/25/04 -0700, you wrote:
OK. where did I get them ? I've got some rivets with a .047
shank and a .089 head. Can't remember where I got them. Would like
some rivets with a body of .038 or so and a head of .070 or so. Anybody
know where I can get them ?
Thanks, royce in SB
At 09:02 PM 5/26/04 -0700, you wrote:
Hi Harry. thanks for the lead. I DID go to their website. And they DO
have a reasonable minimum order ($25) as opposed to Atco, who want $75
minimum. - Royce
Royce,
$25 is still a prohibitive minimum for me, I wouldn't use $25 worth of
rivets in a
At 08:44 AM 5/28/04 -0400, you wrote:
Try Grant Line at;
http://www.enginetender.com/300m.htm
Tom,
Thanks, this info could come in handy. Did you send this to Royce also?
He was the one who posed the original question.
Regards,
Harry
At 08:44 AM 5/28/04 -0400, I wrote:
Tom, Thanks, this info could come in handy. Did you send this to Royce
also? He was the one who posed the original question.
Never mind . . . I see it went to the list.
Regards,
Harry
At 06:01 PM 6/11/04 +0100, you wrote:
Who is Dicky Boast? What shop? I've never had any dealings with him,
[snip] - Mike
I've tried. I've ordered materials, large'ish quantities of tube
specifically, and asked for pricing on quantities of boilers, both
ready-made and materials kits, for
At 05:05 PM 6/12/04 -0400, you wrote:
Yes, I did have the traction engine explosion in mind- I guess I was making
the tenuous assumption that if the late owner of the TE was unconcerned
enough about litigation
I would guess that the whole lot of them were unconcerned about
anything
At 07:18 PM 6/13/04 -0700, you wrote:
It seems another variable is the higher frequency of garage machinists in
England than the US.
Last time I checked they seemed to be up around 130Mhz. (Sorry, I
couldn't resist.)
Regards,
Harry
At 01:42 PM 6/14/04 EDT, you wrote:
When I moved here I noted a total lack of the same variety of kits in any
scale. - Pete
Pete,
I find this to be odd. I began scale model railroading (as
opposed to tinplate) in the mid-1950's and never in my memory has there
been a wider or deeper
This may or may not be of any interest to anyone but I thought I'd
pass it along anyway. If you have a mall/chain store called Luxury
Linens near you, in their kitchenwares area they have a small display of
items called Mini-Gadgets, which are essentially miniature kitchen
utensiles, and
their respective,
sometimes absolute positions on this subject or that, which they are also
not timid about publishing, a gem of information or an education can be found.
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville TN
At 12:12 PM 6/17/04 -0400, you wrote:
Just to clarify Harry's statement, not being sure what he meant by closed,
anyone can join at any time.
Closed means you must join and be a member of the group to receive
the publication. Joining and remaining a member isn't all that difficult,
they let
At 03:33 PM 6/22/04 -0400, you wrote:
Is there an easy way to tell bronze from brass? - Casey
Casey,
No, except with a little familiarity with metal color, oxide color, and
turning characteristics you can be reasonably certain which you have. Many
(but not all) brasses have a yellow
At 09:31 AM 6/23/04 EDT, you wrote:
I also have a powerboat here on the Chesapeake Bay, and we just replaced
the zincs, which I believe are Zamak castings. They are sacrificial anodes
Pete
When a metal of high nobility is coupled with a metal of low nobility in
an electrlytic solution,
At 08:14 AM 7/8/04 -0500, you wrote:
What grade of steel do you use to build the larger objects of your steamers?
Pete,
I use what sheet metal shops call black iron (at least here in the
South.) This is hot rolled mild steel plate (or sheet) and it has a dark
gray oxide skin on it which is
At 02:23 AM 7/9/04 -0700, you wrote:
Hi Group, Regarding the warpage of cold rolled steels... Jon
This is as accurate a description and examples of the problems with CRS
as I have heard lately. Obviously it has it place and uses, otherwise they
wouldn't make the stuff, but one has to know how
At 10:44 PM 7/8/04 +0200, you wrote:
Hi Harry,
I'm surprised to see that you still get mild steels with the mill scale
still on it. - Bert
Bert,
Yes, it's one of the basic materials in the U.S. sheet metal industry
although I now see steel without scale occasionally laying behind the
shears.
At 09:39 AM 7/9/04 -0400, you wrote:
I had been wondering about annealing the CRS. Isn't simply a case of
heating it to like 400 degrees F - Terry Griner
Terry,
I can't recall the temperature but my understanding is that steel must
be taken beyond to its critical temperature, at which point
Can anyone help me with information on the Accucraft C-21 and Shay? I
would like to know the boiler water volumes and center flue ID's one these
engines.
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville Tennessee
At 11:57 AM 8/31/04 -0400, you wrote:
[snip a true Stephenson's Link Motion ALWAYS has two eccentrics,
So, to make it short, if there is only one eccentric, it isn't Stephenson's
[snip] So unless you make an exhaustive study of valve gears, some can be
a bit difficult to identify.
Sincerely Keith
At 08:46 PM 8/31/04 -0700, you wrote:
I consulted a couple of ancient, dusty, and dog-earred tomes, Harry,
both of them had good diagrams but lacked sufficient explanatory text
Steve,
I usually find the best old ones have such complex theories,
explanations, and diagrams as to be
At 11:17 PM 9/1/04 +0200, you wrote:
This is not quite correct. the original Stephenson valve gear consisted
of a loose eccentric and a driving collar and driving pin.
Bert,
I'm aware of that but whatever the actual origin we still call it by
the name Stephenson and everyone understands
At 09:36 AM 9/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
When I moved into my old house back east, the previous owner had left a
box in the garage that at one time was a case of Self-etching primer
I use a self-etching primer sold by Sherwin-Williams in their
professional automotive stores, the product is
At 10:10 PM 9/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
I just picked up a sandblaster at a yard sale, so I'm eager to try that
-vance-
Vance,
I've had a small cannister (aka crappy) sandblaster for years and not
long ago acquired a large cabinet unit, and I finally got some real
blasting abrasive (vs Home
At 03:43 PM 9/19/04 -0700, you wrote:
So what pressure would you recommend
for normal airbrushing ? (I have a real compressor - up to 20cfm at
175psi)
That's more than enough. I have Thayer-Chandlers and they do just fine
on 15psi or less and at fractional cfm. A much more important
I'd like to find some 1/16± ceramic cloth insulation, about the
same stuff that Aster supplies with their kits. Does anyone know of a
source for that or a similar material? I need about one sq ft but would
want to buy more for future use.
Regards,
Harry
clay equivalent of sintered
metal, and the #K-28 seems to me to be just about the right density
(porosity) for Ga1 burner use. It can be easily cut with a bare hacksaw
blade, it's sandable, carvable, but it's also quite brittle and somewhat
fragile.
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville Tennessee
At 09:59 AM 10/2/04 -0400, you wrote:
Thaks Harry for the detailed answer, and Terry for the offer to send a
brick. I will first try to find some locally, it seems crazy to be mailing
bricks :-)
In their infinite wisdom, and being a part of a legislated effort to
encourage development and
At 09:26 AM 10/6/04 +0800, you wrote:
Does anybody know if there is an email contact for Walsall Model Industries?
Christopher Lee
As far as I know there is not. What would you like to know?
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville Tennessee
At 12:41 PM 10/6/04 +0800, you wrote:
I wanted to find out what they offered. I am planning on
converting a Roundhouse Lady Anne kit into an American style and
wanted to see if it was easy to get spoked wheels.
Chris,
The first thing to know about Walsall wheels is that very few of them
At 12:55 PM 10/27/04 -0400, you wrote:
Did anyone beside me notice that the steam gauge is getting it's feed
from the turret? - Keith
Keith,
I don't see that as worth worrying about, especially when you're doing
well to get within 5psi of true reading with the typical miniature steam
gauge
Thanks to everyone who responded to my question about boiler
insulation, I have found a source for ceramic paper material in 1/16
thickness.
Regards,
Harry
At 11:16 AM 11/27/04 -0800, you wrote:
I ran across a thread that has puzzled me a bit. It's on a Cole's water
gauge.
It appears to be a 7/32 - 32 thread. But the thread that I made doesn't
seem to fit perfectly.
Royce,
Here is one possibility, depending upon the source of your taps and
At 03:26 PM 12/31/04 -0800, you wrote:
I should fill a few of my beer barrels with rain water, filter it and
sell it in
5 gallon jugs at a high profit. - Geoff
Geoff,
Don't laugh . . . I was on the Hornby Railways site just now (don't ask
why) and under live steam supplies they offer
with this but you KNOW that if my building frostline is at 18 then
yours should be somewhat deeper than that.
Harry Wade
Nashville TN
At 01:37 PM 1/11/05 +1030, you wrote:
Thank you, Tony Cotton
G1MRA Aust membership officer
South Australia
Hey Tony,
Is the membership ticket going up down there too?
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville Tennessee
At 01:36 PM 2/8/05 -0800, you wrote:
Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ? - royce
Royce,
I used to . . . but it wasn't important enough to remember for
very long. Whatever it is its main quality, and what it was orginally
developed for, is water displacement, thus WD. It has
At 06:16 AM 2/10/05 -0800, you wrote:
So what does displacement mean ? I'm guessing that it must get
between water molecules and whatever the water is in contact with.
Royce,
That's close enough.
So how does it do this?
I have no clue.
Regards,
Harry
At 05:49 PM 2/13/05 -0500, you wrote:
puncture the can. It can then be safely put in with the rest of the garbage.
. . . . or maybe dropped off at a recycling center in the steel
alum bin.
Regards,
Harry
At 06:57 PM 2/13/05 -0800, you wrote:
What is the best type of bronze to use for boiler bushings on guage 1 live
steamers, and where is the best place to buy it? Thanks
Jim O'Hearn
Jim,
The preferred material is phosphor bronze, and while there are a
number of phosphor bronzes one of the
At 11:21 AM 2/14/05 -0600, you wrote:
Rolling in on the heels of the brass vs. bronze question
Does anyone have a readily available source for HEX bronze? - Mike Eorgoff
Mike,
That's going to be a real toughie, especially if you want smaller than
1/2 hex in a small quantity. I couldn't
At 11:30 PM 2/15/05 -0500, you wrote:
my opinion on using copper as bushings is based on the following:
#1 LBSC in his book about building TICH (page 156) recommends as bushing
material copper with The next best thing is bronze.
Henner,
That was written ca. 1951 and things have changed in
extra work is involved in stripping a boiler down and plugging the
holes with solid threaded plugs for a test, but the record should show, and
the general Ga1 population should know, what the correct procedure is in
case they decide to use it.
Regards,
Harry Wade
Nashville Tennessee
At 12:09 PM 3/14/05 -0600, you wrote:
1) Users may have a tendency to raise the pressure setting on their
pressure relief valves above what the factory intends.
A bad habit to get into, but even so this cannot justify a test
standard of 300% of WP.
2) Pressure gauges are not normally
At 01:39 PM 3/25/05 -0700, you wrote:
(List readers, sorry this will get stripped off the note. If you're dying
to see
the photo, I'll be glad to send it to you if you contact me off-list.)
regards,
Vance,
The photo indeed DID make it through, at least through to me.
Regards,
Harry
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