Good idea John. But when you say tightly focused I take it you mean a
flashlight with a wide beam emanating from a small aperture. This is what gives
a
sharp edge to the shadow. Conversely, a flashlight with a narrow beam
from a large reflector would be poor.
The poor man's laser trigon, indeed.
Hi Chris:
You're right! I realized as soon as I sent my message that a small diameter
floodlight with a wide beam would be better than a tight beam, because it
must illuminate the entire style and not just a portion of it.
Thanks for confirming,
John
Good idea John. But when you say tightly
John Carmichael wrote (replying to Chris Lusby Taylor):
You're right! I realized as soon as I sent my message that a small
diameter
floodlight with a wide beam would be better than a tight beam, because it
must illuminate the entire style and not just a portion of it.
A drawback with the
On Thu, 10 Feb 2000, John Carmichael wrote:
Hi Chris:
You're right! I realized as soon as I sent my message that a small diameter
floodlight with a wide beam would be better than a tight beam, because it
must illuminate the entire style and not just a portion of it.
Also, the smaller
On Thu, 10 Feb 2000, John Davis wrote:
Since what you are actually trying to do is to reproduce the method
of a trigon (as Chris pointed out), why not use a real laser trigon.
Bob Terwilliger has one on his webpages at
http://www.shadow.net/~bobt/trigon/trigon.htm (based on a transit
Hi once more:
Just read all your e-mails on drawing hour lines by shadow tracing. Chris
Lusby Taylor pointed out that it would be difficult to trace the whole hour
line because the shadow is constantly moving; so he suggested drawing a
point on the hour line first and then visually guestimating
John,
If you are not to concerned with getting the hourline traced across dips
and hills on the ground, use a long straightedge (yardstick, meterstick, 8'
- 16' extruded strip of aluminum flashing, etc.) to mark the line. You can
maintain it on the shadow edge until the top of the hour and then
