Re: [Biofuel] Seeking Help - Lister-Petter 1-cylinder diesel engine
Darry, The injector may well have gummed up, I'd suggest removing it and cranking with it out to see if it sprays fuel. The internal fire museum in Wales may be able to help you with a manual if google can't find one. mike. At 08:36 PM 7/08/2011, you wrote: Background Neither my son or I are really heat engine kind of people. I'm more about electric drive stuff, and my son is an aviation electronics technician. So, where my ignorance of diesel engines shows through, my apologies in advance. I received this engine a few years ago, effectively for free. I figured a small diesel should be hard to really break, and it might come in useful someday. Now, I have 2 or 3 potential uses for it. The previous owner had it for several years, and never tried to start it. He delivered it to me covered with a cardboard box, saying it was a Lombardini. According to him, the owner before him had stored it for several years, and never tried to start it. The story is that the original application for the engine was to power highway information signs before the LED / photovoltaic panel age. In the past few days, my son and I have found ourselves with an unaccustomed amount of free garage floor space, and some time (mostly due to other projects not appearing, not having parts available, or dropping in priority). Our current objective is to get the engine running. If successful, we will then invest in upgrading/replacing all the consumables (filters, hoses). We took the cardboard off to find it is not a Lombardini, but a Lister-Petter. It has an electric starter - including solenoid - and what appears to be a heavy-duty alternator attached (driven by a V-belt. The latter would be consistent with the highway sign application. No fuel tank. At least one fuel-related hose was cut. No electrical wiring of any kind still attached. No keys or obvious keyholes. There is a Made in England sticker on the top of it. No documentation of any kind came with the engine. The name plate indicates it is a AC1 model, which means it likely dates from somewhere between 1970 and 1985. http://www.winget.co.uk/document/LISTER%20PETTER%20AC-AD%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf We have been consulting this documentation for information. Parts manual: http://www.stategen.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/stategen_lister-petter_ac1_ad1_parts.pdf Operations manual: http://www.winget.co.uk/document/LISTER%20PETTER%20AC-AD%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf Recent Activity We have changed the oil (2.7 litres of diesel oil put in, which agrees with just over full on the dipstick. The old oil was quite unattractive. We jury-rigged a fuel tank from a go-kart fuel tank (scavenged from another electric conversion project). We bought fresh fuel, cleaned out the tank with methanol, and put the fuel in the tank and pressurized the fuel side sufficiently to find a leak in one of the hoses that came with the engine, downstream from the fuel filter - so fuel is getting at least that far. Jury-rigged a repair for that - no further leaking. Exhaust system is in place. The air filter is filthy, so we have removed it for commissioning purposes. (Will definitely replace it if we can get the engine running, along with the fuel and oil filters). We tried rope-starting yesterday. About all we concluded from that exercise (and I mean that literally) was that the cylinder seems to have good compression, and the decompressor lever is effective. We have tried the stop/run lever in both positions, and that made no difference. Today we attached casters to the frame to make it easier to move around, and worked out the connections for the electric starter, replaced the missing wiring, attached a battery and proved up the solenoid and starter motor. At least I hope we can retire the starting rope as a result. We turned the engine over and proved the starter turns the cylinder in the same direction as the rope starter (given it is Lucas starter and solenoid, we weren't really sure if it would be positive or negative ground. We are using negative ground, and that appears to be working. Like I said, I'm more an electrics kind of guy.) We rolled the engine on electric power several times, for up to 30 seconds, but no evidence of ignition, no smoke, white or black. Looks like we might have some raw fuel coming out the exhaust pipe. Still Not Running However, it still is not running. We're looking for more information. A couple of possible clues from the Web. I've had this engine for a while now and with the cold weather and getting caught up on the regular jobs I drug it out again to see if we could get it to run. First we mounted it good and solid, put some fuel in a can ran an electric pump as a lift pump, had to replace the return lines as they were shot. Checked for mice in the air cleaner and blew the filter out. It had been in the barn for several years. Hooked up a temporary wiring system to start it. Started pumping fuel through it and bleeding
Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question
Hi Keith, Can you make a depression in the end of a hardwood log and hammer the tin into shape with a ball hammer or a wooden shaper? Or if its to hard to make the dome could you use a long tin can or a length of tube with holes in it? mike. At 08:29 PM 3/11/2010, you wrote: Hi Dawie Keith It looks to me, unless I've misunderstood the failed attempt, that you want a worked sheetmetal piece rather than a casting or moulding. That's right. It's just thin metal, like a tin can. I think anything much heavier might upset the balance, which is just right - as you walk the cans more or less empty themselves, you don't have to tip them much, if at all. And then the trouble would be to get the domed shape into it: I take it the shape is necessary for the proper functioning of the rose. Yes, it widens the spread, and some of the water goes up, which extends the reach. The first thing that springs to mind is to scour vehicle breaker's yards for bits of body panels that have a suitable dome. As you only need a small piece an otherwise irreparable panel might do. A circular domed part of a car? I can't think of one, but I'll certainly have a look. Otherwise one could start with flat sheetmetal and work in the dome using traditional bodywork techniques. That's probably my problem, I don't know much about bodywork techniques. The problem is that one would be working in ungalvanized metal, though one could cold galv it afterwards. Or use some linseed oil, or this: Anti-rust Paint from Fish-Scraps - A short guide to the technique by M. L. Allen, Prince of Songkla University, Thailand http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/FishPaintJTF.pdf To form the dome, heat a metal disc until a light yellow oxide bloom appears. Then hammer along the edge of the disc to compact the metal. You'll probably have to heat, hammer, and let cool a few times to achieve the desired domed shape. I haven't done this myself but have read somewhat on the subject. That sounds hopeful. But wouldn't hammering along the edge thin the metal and expand it rather than compacting it? I'd thought of hammering in the middle to expand it, hopefully making the whole thing bulge out, but I didn't want to make the middle thinner, and weaker. Maybe if I started out with slightly thicker metal. And, indeed, heat it to light yellow. The holes would be made afterwards with an awl and hammer on a suitable wood block. Assembling the dome onto the collar and cone involves the same sort of techniques as the can itself, folded seams and solder. Yes, that's the easy part. That seems to me an appropriately crafts-based way to do it. I hope this helps. It does, in several ways. Thanks very much Dawie. Regards Keith -Dawie --- On Tue, 2/11/10, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Biofuel] A metalworking question To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org Date: Tuesday, 2 November, 2010, 20:30 Hello all If you don't mind my asking, I could use a little help with some info at the Journey to Forever website. It's about Chinese watering cans, at this page: Appropriate technology Chinese watering cans http://journeytoforever.org/at_can.html High-power rose -- tricky to make, it says. We haven't figured out how to make new roses yet, but we're working on it. We're trying twin male/female moulds using our friend Graeme Morris's recipe for a rock-hard putty made of glass-fibre resin and lime -- that way we should be able to get the holes right. See Watering can plans for details. http://journeytoforever.org/at_canplan.html It didn't work. I've made eight of these cans over the years, and when I leave I abandon the cans themselves and take the roses with me. The cans seem to be ubiquitous, they're what veg oil, methanol and so on come in. This pair is the current version: http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/wcans.jpg The cans in action: http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/k-wc.jpg They're very efficient - using both cans at once, two passes gives you 1 a litre per sq yd/sq metre coverage. snip ___ Biofuel mailing list Biofuel@sustainablelists.org http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/sustainablelorgbiofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (70,000 messages): http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/ Mike Fleetwood Canberra Australia and Sidcup UK. Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Biofuel mailing list Biofuel@sustainablelists.org http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/sustainablelorgbiofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (70,000 messages):
Re: [Biofuel] Weather report
Hi Keith and Peter, I can tell you where its all gone - South East Australia - and after years of drought we are very grateful! Our gauge in Canberra recorded 70 mm over a weekend and the water reserves are now restored to good levels. Actually I thought you had moved to S Africa, Keith? mike. At 12:05 AM 11/09/2010, you wrote: Hi Keith ; Thanks for the weather update in Japan. At my farm in Cambodia I have my staff trained to collect rainwater in a calibrated jar and record the data and totals by month, which we have been doing for about 4 years now. Yes very dry again this year and for the last 3 years also. September is usually the wettest month, so we still have some hope. Not easy to have a successful farm with no rain in the rainy season! BR Peter G. Thailand www.gac-seeds.com ___ Biofuel mailing list Biofuel@sustainablelists.org http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/sustainablelorgbiofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (70,000 messages): http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/ Mike Fleetwood Canberra Australia and Sidcup UK. Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Biofuel mailing list Biofuel@sustainablelists.org http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/sustainablelorgbiofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (70,000 messages): http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/
Re: [Biofuel] Harbor Freight Pump Upgrade needed!
I have had a capacitor failure on this type of pump it had only done a couple of batches - I got a warranty replacement but wonder if temperature rise from pumping hot oil rather than cold water was a factor - it occurred on a very hot day. Mike in Australia. At 11:14 PM 26/04/2005 -0400, you wrote: Hello, I've been using the Harbor Freight 1 1/2 hp clear water pump in a closed reactor Appleseed setup for some test batches Approximate 37 gal of WVO + 7 gal methoxide =42 g in a 50 gal reactor). The pump is struggling to pump oil-lift to the top of the reactor (Water heater). In fact the pump doesn't even lift the oil 2' from the outlet at this point from a lower valve outlet! I know the pump is not only underrated, but possible not working! (Maybe 4 hours total of run time with this new pump) Note: I need a pump to outlet WVO lift to reactor intake is 5 feet. Clearly I need to upgrade to pump the wvo to the reactor and also to provide better circulating mixing and need to simply upgrade this pump. Todd (Appal Energy) provided a link to: http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2005010414190186catname=waterkeyword=WPCA Also: http://www.mcmaster.com/ But does anyone recommend a specific model? Some pumps don't recommend liquid heated above 120F to circulate in pumps! I hope to purchase this unit soon, so I can produce biodiesel again. Thank you, Kevin Shea Beacon, NY ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.10.3 - Release Date: 25/04/2005 ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
Re: [Biofuel] new to list
I am in Canberra, you are welcome to call me - 02 6161 8998. Mike Fleetwood Canberra, Australia. Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 10:21 PM 6/12/2004 +1100, you wrote: Hi to everyone I am new to the list and to making biodiesel I live in a rural area but 5 min from the coast, we are 2.5 hrs south of Sydney in N.S.W. Australia I have made Bio diesel for the first time from the information on your web site. Today was the first time that I tried it in the car (Toyota 4 w drive tubo-diesel 1986 model with 386000 klm on the clock) It was a funny feeling, will the car run at all, is the fuel ok etc etc. It drove like a dream so I can't wait to make the next 90 ltr I did have a problem though, After washing the fuel looked cloudy and didn't want to settle ??. I heated the fuel to 60 deg c then let it settle and it cleared . To wash the diesel I made a drum with a spray system on the top and I sprayed 30 ltr of water over the top then I have a bubble ring at the bottom which bubbles to the top,about 3hrs of washing. Should I have put some water in the bottom at first ?. The 90 lts of diesel gave me about 8 ltr of Glycerine , is that enough?? I did all the tests at first and the fuel looked very clear after the first process, I used 18 ltr Methanol and 450grm of Sodium Hydroxide for 90 ltr. I did the titration test 2x and got the same result- 1.5 and 3.5 grm (the oil is very clean) It is a bit hard when I have to get all the info from the net and can't talk to somebody close by. I will keep making it and I suppose it will improve as I go. I really want to wash the fuel so will persist. If there is anybody on the list that is close by I would love to talk to you. Thank you for you time Peter Harves ps I make a living making pottery see my web site www.coolpottery.com.au 145 Edward Wollstonecraft Lane Coolangatta Via Berry N.S.W. 2535 Australia phone- 02-44485877 ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
Re: [Biofuel] Electric Yard Tools (was Trees and power companies)
I built one using a long pneumatic cylinder - tried using a jack but found it hard to get enough speed and momentum to the wedge to make it effective in splitting the log. The whole project turned out to be a lot more expensive and difficult than first thought although it does work well - runs off a 20 cfm compressor. Mike Canberra, Australia. At 04:46 PM 22/10/2004 -0400, you wrote: Steve, I would like to hear what you think of the electric chain saw and log splitter when your evaluation is done. I have an old 14-inch, 110-volt AC chain saw. It doesn't get much work, but I'm always pleased with it when I do use it. Not for professional lumberjacks, but quite adequate for yardwork. I'm thinking about building a log splitter, probably based on a motor and screw jack rather than hydraulics, but I have not done enough investigation yet to be sure which way to go. Spent about six hours near a gas-powered unit a couple of weekends ago - really want to avoid doing that again. ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
Re: [Biofuel] Off Topic: Any Australians on this list..
At 11:31 PM 20/10/2004 +1000, you wrote: Hi, Just wondering.. Megan SE Gippsland, Victoria ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ ___ Biofuel mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://wwia.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/biofuel Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuel archives at Infoarchive.net (searchable): http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/
Re: [biofuel] Deacidifying WVO
OK, thanks I'll try that. I'd like to use the acid - base (foolproof) method, but I have not yet managed to obtain the conc sulphuric acid. At 07:53 AM 12/03/2004 -0800, you wrote: on 3/12/04 4:21 AM, mfle2001 at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had 32 litres of oil, in a plastic dustbin. I dissolved 224g of lye in 1,280 mls of water, and mixed it in to the oil. Unfortunately despite leaving it 24 hours I don't seem to have any separation of oil and soapstock - it just seems to be one horrible gluggy mass. Try slowly pouring a liter of your mix into 10 liters of very hot water. Mix gently. Clean oil should float to the top, where you can scoop it off. You might be able to repeat the process a few times with the same batch of water before it gets too soapy. The oil you recover from this first stage will probably need a second stage (all over again with fresh hot water) to completely remove all the soap. This extravagant use of water has always plagued the caustic refining process, which is why it is gradually being phased out in favor of other approaches. Centrifuging helps, but is generally beyond the abilities and budget of the garage producer. Why don't you try an acid esterification step first, when you can't avoid using that oil? -K Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.htmlhttp://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ * * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: * mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] * * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Yahoo! Terms of Service. Mike Fleetwood Canberra, Australia. Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [biofuel] Deacidifying WVO
Hi Ken, Yes, it probably was pretty stupid to deacidify a lot of it, I usually do test new things on a small scale, but it sounded fairly straightforward so I was probably overconfident. I did stir it gently, by hand using a piece of plastic pipe for about 4 mins, but it was difficult to tell if it was mixed because the oil was pretty thick at room temperature. I'll try a half litre in a bottle - am wondering if it might be better to warm it a little just until its liquid? At 06:00 AM 13/03/2004 +0900, you wrote: Hello Mike, Ken Mike, if you're trying something new don't you test it first? It has to be done gently, it says so - if you're too rough you'll get just the results you did get, in your dustbin. Half a litre in a PET bottle would have been a much better way to start. Ken wrote: This extravagant use of water has always plagued the caustic refining process, which is why it is gradually being phased out in favor of other approaches. Centrifuging helps, but is generally That's why I developed this method. Usually they use the same amount of water as oil, and then separate it with a centrifuge, and then wash it... If you use only 40ml of water per litre of oil, and you do it CAREFULLY, that's it, no more water required, no centrifuge, no washing. So it's one method (along with an adaptation of Aleks's acid-base method) that's been recommended for use at the local level (villages and farms) in Thailand for making biodiesel from crude palm oil. But I'll echo Ken's question - why not use the acid-base method? http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_aleksnew.htmlhttp://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_aleksnew.html You'll get much higher production that way, as it says in the Deacidifying WVO section: It's an alternative -- better than straight single-stage base for oil like this [9.6ml titration], and while it won't get as a high a production rate as the acid-base method, and it uses more catalyst and gives you more co-products, it's very quick and simple. On the other hand, 6-7 g/litre isn't too bad, you should be able to get 85% production with that by single stage base, probably more. Best Keith on 3/12/04 4:21 AM, mfle2001 at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had 32 litres of oil, in a plastic dustbin. I dissolved 224g of lye in 1,280 mls of water, and mixed it in to the oil. Unfortunately despite leaving it 24 hours I don't seem to have any separation of oil and soapstock - it just seems to be one horrible gluggy mass. Try slowly pouring a liter of your mix into 10 liters of very hot water. Mix gently. Clean oil should float to the top, where you can scoop it off. You might be able to repeat the process a few times with the same batch of water before it gets too soapy. The oil you recover from this first stage will probably need a second stage (all over again with fresh hot water) to completely remove all the soap. This extravagant use of water has always plagued the caustic refining process, which is why it is gradually being phased out in favor of other approaches. Centrifuging helps, but is generally beyond the abilities and budget of the garage producer. Why don't you try an acid esterification step first, when you can't avoid using that oil? -K Most of the WVO I get is very good and titrates at 1-2 g/litre or less, but I have one source, a fish and chip shop that is not so good it is 6-7 g/litre. As this is difficult to process with single stage I decided to try deacidifying it and followed the instructions on J to F. I had 32 litres of oil, in a plastic dustbin. I dissolved 224g of lye in 1,280 mls of water, and mixed it in to the oil. I took a sample of the mixture in a jar to watch. Unfortunately despite leaving it 24 hours I don't seem to have any separation of oil and soapstock - it just seems to be one horrible gluggy mass. Should the soapstock be more solid or a different colour or what? Do I need to heat it perhaps? Any help and advice would be appreciated. Mike Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.htmlhttp://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/http://infoarchive.net/sgroup/biofuel/ Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ * * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: * mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] * * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Yahoo! Terms of Service. Mike Fleetwood Canberra, Australia. Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
Re: [biofuel] Pump for fumeless processor
I am also in Canberra and would be interested to talk with you about your plans. I have seen pictures of a wet central heating system pump being used - these are common and cheap in the UK but I'm not sure about availability and price in Oz. Mike. At 03:20 AM 4/02/2004 +, you wrote: I am looking at building a fumeless processor from a 200 litre hot water cylinder but need a pump. I do not wish to spend hundreds $ on a new pump. Can anyone tell me of an ideal pump to use? PeterR Canberra OZ Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.htmlhttp://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuelhttp://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ * * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: * mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] * * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/Yahoo! Terms of Service. Mike Fleetwood Canberra, Australia. Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Biofuel at Journey to Forever: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html Biofuels list archives: http://archive.nnytech.net/index.php?list=biofuel Please do NOT send Unsubscribe messages to the list address. To unsubscribe, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Sponsor -~-- Buy Ink Cartridges or Refill Kits for your HP, Epson, Canon or Lexmark Printer at MyInks.com. Free s/h on orders $50 or more to the US Canada. http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5511 http://us.click.yahoo.com/mOAaAA/3exGAA/qnsNAA/FGYolB/TM -~- Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/biofuel/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
