These threads where there is not enough information to define the
problem can grow forever, because they are based on speculation, not
facts.
Corby, you have decided what you need based on what you know, but the
rest of us need a more general statement of the problem.
Unless, of course, that is
> On May 18, 2017, at 8:13 PM, jimlux wrote:
>
> On 5/18/17 2:36 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>> It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining.. Do you
>> really need to tap the holes? You might use self taping screws. Id the
>> would work then you can do
On 5/18/17 2:36 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining.. Do you
really need to tap the holes? You might use self taping screws. Id the
would work then you can do the work yourself with just a hand drill.
OK it you must use machine threads and
Corby,
Is it a 'pressure' seal or a 'vacuum' seal?
Vacuum should be much easier to achieve.
Joe
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of
cdel...@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, May 18, 2017 3:34 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts]
So the goal is not to attach end plates, that is the solution. The real
goal is a sealed container that can be re-opened.I suggest a trip to
the plumbing supply store.Why not just use screw-on end caps
It you need it sealed 4-40 screw are not able to provide any reasonable
clamping force.
Andy,
Although this is a hydraulic cylinder, this is along the lines of what you
described.
On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 19:18 Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts
wrote:
>
>
> Or go for thicker wall aluminium tube, oversized endplates and long bolts
> or threaded rods running the entire
Or go for thicker wall aluminium tube, oversized endplates and long bolts or
threaded rods running the entire length down the outside of the tube so you're
clamping both ends in one operation. No tapping required. Simples!
On 19/05/2017, at 6:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
> I bet you went to
Why are my eyes watering?
On 19/05/2017, at 5:03 AM, Bob Darlington wrote:
> I had
> to soak my cavity ring in nitric acid for a month to get the tap out.
>
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Maybe I have a problem unit but I measured the supply to the antenna at 3.7
volts. I have a 5 volt antenna and it still receives sats at the lower
voltage. Anyone else check this supply? I wonder if it is a settable
parameter?
Regards,
Tom
- Original Message -
From:
Cool. Should be interesting to see what you find. I've been hacking at the
VxWorks side of things, off an on,
but have been distracted by this #wannacry business among other things. That
TL866 is certainly a good value,
and it seems to work well.
Looking forward to hearing what you turn up.
It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining.. Do you
really need to tap the holes? You might use self taping screws. Id the
would work then you can do the work yourself with just a hand drill.
OK it you must use machine threads and they must be #4 size try "rivets"
these work
On 5/18/17 1:34 PM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill
bits.
Good idea about drilling the end
Content by Scott
Typos by Siri
> On May 18, 2017, at 4:34 PM, wrote:
>
> Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
> I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
> threaded depth.
> I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap
Yes, generally when something is expensive to manufacture it is because the
designer was not thinking about costs. A design with 40 size "tiny" thread
holes in just not cost-effective. A redesign could save hours work.
On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 11:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
>
If you need pressure moisture tightness you are going to want to have machinist
mill tube ends and plates flat if you take off say 075-100 thousands deep and
.225 thousanths around edge of plate and have machinist predrill holes in cover
plate you will have both a tight seal and drill guide for
On 18/05/2017 4:34 PM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
Or go back to the shop and get a new quote with them knowing it's not
bottom tapping, only 1/4" threaded depth.
Michael
Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill
bits.
Good idea about drilling the end plates first and drilling thru to match.
Between
On 5/18/17 11:53 AM, jimlux wrote:
On 5/18/17 11:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
I'm very dubious that you need a tapped 4-40 hole to be threaded any
deeper
than 0.25". If you work with the machinist I'm sure you can come up with
some reasonable spec that does not require a bottoming tap and will save
I agree, tapping that depth in aluminum is just asking to gall the threads. If
you have a decent alloy (6061 7075) you only need 1/8” to hold what ever is
save to hold with a #4. If you need more strength then it would be best to use
helicoil inserts.
Where are you located? There are a number
I'm very dubious that you need a tapped 4-40 hole to be threaded any deeper
than 0.25". If you work with the machinist I'm sure you can come up with
some reasonable spec that does not require a bottoming tap and will save
you a lot of money.
I bet you went to 0.25" wall square tubing only because
People's (mis)perception of machine shop costs always amazes me. All too
often they equate the fact that they could do it themselves (inaccurately)
on an old drill press and then hand tap with what a real shop will do - all
while that real shop has a $100k - $500k investment in a single machine.
Tap Magic for Aluminum will be your best friend for this operation.
I've been using it on some extrusion for a 3D printer project. It makes
an amazing amount of difference.
Good luck with you project.
Todd
On 05/18/17 12:18, Pete Lancashire wrote:
Price sounds reasonable to me.
Tapping
Price sounds reasonable to me.
Tapping 40 each 4-40's that deep in to a closed hole is the killer. If I
still had my old Bridgeport J and was NC'ed Your looking at say 1 hour to
program, 10 minutes to mount in a vice and get aligned, drill 40 each #44
or #43 holes would be easy, but then slow
On 5/18/17 10:03 AM, Bob Darlington wrote:
Ask them what they'd do it for without the tapping. Normally I'd do
something like this for free but 40 tapped 4-40 holes in heavy wall
aluminum is a pain. It would be a miracle if I didn't break the tap off at
least once.
Very much so.. 40 tapped
This is fairly easy to do on a vertical mill, but it can be done using a
drill press.
I would machine and drill the end plates first. Then I would use
hot-glue or double-sided tape to attach one of the end plates to the
tube ends and use the end plate as a drilling guide to drill and tap the
Ask them what they'd do it for without the tapping. Normally I'd do
something like this for free but 40 tapped 4-40 holes in heavy wall
aluminum is a pain. It would be a miracle if I didn't break the tap off at
least once. Last time was for a resonant cavity amp (23cm band) and I had
to soak my
On 5/18/17 9:54 AM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
Hi,
I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a .25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
I need 20 holes in each end tapped for 4/40 and 1/2" deep.
So you're putting 5 holes in each side? in the ends? (i.e. the long axis
of the screw is within the wall?
Hi,
I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a .25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
I need 20 holes in each end tapped for 4/40 and 1/2" deep.
This is for a Rubidium project.
The local machine shop want's $360.00
Anyone have a machining setup that could do the work a bit cheaper?
If not I'll
I got in a TL866A programmer with the complete adapter set, pulled the flash
chip from my dead TruePosition, and dumped the chip. Success first time!
Now to go through the ROM dump and see what hidden goodies there are.
A quick look seems to show commands for setting Kalman filter
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