recomendation for a portable 10mhz
referenceoscilator
In a message dated 12/13/2007 09:58:04 Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
oscillator. You could slip it into a pocket you would sew in your
long johns in the armpit or groin area. That should keep it
toasty-warm at all
I must say that I find it interesting that we have not heard back from the
original poster
concerning this subject. You would think he would provide some response after
all the comments that have been generated by this topic.
Perhaps the subject matter became way too involved for what was
Hi Said and All
I have been following this thread with a lot of interest because my
application is also in portable Microwave operations with narrowband modes
such as WSJT. The main issue here is not so much long term frequency
stability as one only has to find a signal in an SSB passband, but
In a message dated 12/12/2007 14:11:50 Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Now I am not sure which of any of the above points are necessary or
important but I would be grateful for the thoughts of others.
Regards Rex VK7MO
Hi Rex,
that's a lot of great information!
Rex Moncur wrote:
Hi Said and All
I have been following this thread with a lot of interest because my
application is also in portable Microwave operations with narrowband modes
such as WSJT. The main issue here is not so much long term frequency
stability as one only has to find a signal in
Hello to all,
I think everyone is missing the boat here, so to speak. Eric does not
necessarily need a high degree of accuracy.
What he really needs is stability. So if he was off frequency a bit, that could
be handled in the tunable IF unit, which is, most likely, some wide range modern
In a message dated 12/11/2007 17:00:17 Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL
PROTECTED]
writes:
A very high quality ocxo would probably satisfy the need. Or as someone
suggested, a combination of ocxo and a Rb. The Rb would provide the longer
term
needed for the really high multiplication into
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Bill,
a Rubidium would take about 15 to 20 Watts, and they don't usually work at
12V battery voltage typically.
At 20 Watts we would consume 1.67A at 12V, so a (large) 80Ah car batt would
only last two days in best conditions at room temperature.
If
You still
might need a trunk full of batteries though...
jeff
As a ham, I've got a vehicle with a bunch of batteries and they charge
off of my engine, but let's be practical. I'd rather spend my battery's
energy on long term receiving and on transmitting significant power than
on
In a message dated 12/11/2007 19:08:14 Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
I think the situation is somewhat better than that. I'm looking at my
LPRO-101. It's about 18-watts while warming up, but once the physics
package is up to temp and locked, the power consumption
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 12/11/2007 19:08:14 Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL
PROTECTED]
writes:
I think the situation is somewhat better than that. I'm looking at my
LPRO-101. It's about 18-watts while warming up, but once the physics
package is up to temp
In a message dated 12/11/2007 21:06:12 Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
At night?
Or do you have a very long lead?
Bruce
Used to charge the Pb during the day. 30 Watt GE array = $125 at:
_http://sunelec.com/_ (http://sunelec.com/)
That will at least significantly
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