Hi Bill...
My Rolex GMT Master was stolen back in '75,
so no luck on that. Rolex is a bit pricey for
my needs.
My Seiko CQ001M, one of the first Seiko Digitals,
was amazing. Over the time I had it, it varied less
than plus/minus 1 second against WWV. I carried
a Radio Shack Time Kube with
I wore a Casio "Atomic" watch and it set itself reliably for many years
until very recently. They are still available. I've replaced it with a
Seiko Solar "Radio" watch which I understand has a better wwvb receiver
in it. Haven't worn it yet so I'm not sure how it will perform but I've
heard
On Mon, 5 Mar 2018 01:38:06 -0500
Don Murray via time-nuts wrote:
> So it looks as if I am in need of a new wristwatch,
> which will give me some kind of time accuracy.
I've owned several Swatch and Tissot over the past decades,
Growing up in Switzerland does that to you.
It depends on the quantity they buy. I just looked for X7R 0.1uF in 0805 at
Digikey and the automotive grade (10%, -55 to +125) is cheaper than the non
automotive grade with worse tolerance and more limited temperature range.
Next time you buy it may be reversed...
On Feb 25, 2018 1:51 PM,
BruceWisjh I had known about it a week ago and we could have added a board to
the A9 order. Next order is probably three weeks away ifIi can help contact me
off list Bert Kehren
Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
Original message From: Bruce Griffiths
Even my pre civil war pocket watches should be good enough
for your needs. Better than a minute/day.
But for some (many) time-nuts it's about wants, not needs.
My clocks and watches that can be heard across the room qualify
me as old school time nut. (My DOB qualifies me as just plain old.)
Adrian Goodwin,
Working in reverse here
Maas-Rowe has been in business since 1922. The son of the founder of the
company, Paul Rowe currently president of the company is his golden years.
The DCB1 which was Maas-Rowe's first generation of a digital controller in
around 1983 has
I have been soldering since I was in high-school (circa 1970s) and before that.
I have two additional Maas-Rowe Controllers here at home I can work with.
However I do not want destroy them to the point of no return as finding used
units relatively good condition is becoming more difficult.
The unit has an external switching power supply which provides 5+ VDC. In
addition there is a 24VAC transformer which provides the power for the bell
solenoids. This where the AC reference is "sampled" I cannot completely cut
out the AC transformer as it is essential to other operations of
I am sure there are master circuit diagrams of the DCB1 but I've never seen
them during my visits to the factory. It was explained to me, there are no
printed service manuals for the digital product line.
If I have questions the engineer or the owner can answer them. Which I may
also need to
When I removed it from storage, communication was gone. It took a very long
while to lock, but did so and maintained lock for a couple of weeks before
going into holdover. It then locked back for a while.
I definitely need to do more trouble shooting on it before I give up
completely. It was the
Am 05.03.2018 um 14:01 schrieb Bob kb8tq:
If you want to stick with WWV, the Citizen “Ecco Drive” (solar) WWVB
ECO-Drive
watches are a pretty good option. Until I caved in to the wonders of
a cell phone on my wrist, I used them for many years. Nothing to fuss
with. No battery to die on you.
For those of us whose time-nuttery extends into the fascinating world of
mechanical watches and clocks, the kind of accuracy usually discussed here
is not only impossible but essentially irrelevant (quelle horreur!). Our
interest is in the beauty and elegance of micromechanical devices that have
An by the way, I also have a Tissot P-touch as a retirement gift from IBM. Got
the watch, as they say. I can say it is very accurate for a non-disciplined
watch if you wear it every day.
Regards,
Jerry
Jerry Hancock
je...@hanler.com
(415) 215-3779
> On Mar 5, 2018, at 2:44 AM, Attila
Hi
A very normal way to get the 60 Hz into the clock chips is to pull it off
of something like the 24V transformer winding. They run through a resistor
over to a limiter circuit to turn the sine wave into a square wave. That
square wave heads into the input pin on the clock chip. Some “quality
And that is just my point--well, part of it, anyway--ultra-precise
measurement of time is profoundly important, and rightly the primary focus
of this group. But for the wrist, very, very few of us need pin-point
accuracy--though many seem to perceive that we do. My Tissot mechanical
chronograph is
If you are into rugged, I have a casio atomic solar that special forces use…
I was able to tail-end a gov’t contract and got it for cheap.
aren’t we silly.
Regards,
Jerry
Jerry Hancock
je...@hanler.com
(415) 215-3779
> On Mar 4, 2018, at 10:38 PM, Don Murray via time-nuts
I really don't want a conductive metal-case watch on my arm. What I do
want is a light-weight, thin watch with day, date and analog display
with sweep second hand. Not digital... Ok, that may be old-fashioned but
it suits me. I've never found a suitable wwvb watch.
So, I opt for an
Eurochron (I believe they're low-end brand of Junghams) make a plastic
DCF77 watch. 'Plastic' doesn't do it justice - although the one I had
eventually wore away, it was attractive and well made and lasted for
several years.
I think this is the WWVB equivalent.
On Mon, 5 Mar 2018 07:45:51 -0800
Jerry Hancock wrote:
> An by the way, I also have a Tissot P-touch as a retirement gift from IBM.
> Got the watch, as they say. I can say it is very accurate for a non-
> disciplined watch if you wear it every day.
Even if you do not wear
Lots of folks have chimed in on this thread, but I will just add that the Apple
watch is an NTP client. I’m extremely happy with mine, but the reasons I am are
far, far wider than its accuracy (which I can only judge by eye, which is an
extraordinary low bar for a Time Nut).
> On Mar 4, 2018,
On 3/5/18 10:26 AM, Mark Sims wrote:
Besides those clocks Heather has alarm clock and egg timer alarms.
because doesn't everyone time their soft boiled eggs to the microsecond?
(hmm, my Z3801 GPSDO is probably good to 1E-11 at tau of 300 seconds,
so that's a potential error of 3ns )
Ok, looking at the pictures and the datasheet gives several questions.
1) What signal is on TP1? Is it 32,768 Hz?
2) What does C3 do? Is it used to trim the 32,768 Xtal?
3) Out of curiosity what is the frequency of U2, the oscillator module?
Maybe you can remove the 32,768 Xtal and feed in a
I’ve built two GPSDO units now with this OCXO. For the first one, I fed the DAC
(AD5680) from the oscillator’s reference output. This resulted in a very poor
(compared to expected) short term ADEV result (1-2 E-11). There was a lot of
noise (something like 5 mV P-P) on the reference output.
I think what makes the IWatch unique is it has an option that makes it a
standalone cell phone. With this new option it no longer need to be in
proximity of you IPhone. You leave the IPhone at home and have a fully function
cell phone on your wrist. The only hitch is they will not let you
The university that I hang out at has a clock tower with a full set of bells.
Several years ago the tower and bells were restored, at hefty expense. But,
alas, some no-goodnik neighbors objected to the sound, so they cut back the use
of the clock. I don't know what system they use to get
Hi All;
Has anyone had hands on experience with a FS740 or any thoughts in general?
Seem like a really nice box.
Thanks;
Thomas Knox
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To the yoctosecond. Very fine sand in the li'l hourglass.
On Monday, March 5, 2018, jimlux wrote:
> On 3/5/18 10:26 AM, Mark Sims wrote:
>
> Besides those clocks Heather has alarm clock and egg timer alarms.
>>
>
>
> because doesn't everyone time their soft boiled eggs
I've been known to use the egg timer mode in the kitchen... I get distracted
easily and burned food has been known to occur. Due to system vagaries, it is
probably only accurate to say 30 milliseconds (better on Linux, of course), so
less than perfect eggs are possible. I've thought about
Thank you, Hal, for these links and to others for your comments.
Setting the oven temperature on a turning point appears tedious. Perhaps there
is enough range in the frequency adjustment to put the oscillator back on
frequency - or close enough for the EFC to be effective. If not, I may have
Take a look at the Maxim
DS32KHZS 32.768kHz Temperature-Compensated Crystal Oscillator TCXO
Available in 14 pin dip, needs +5 (you have), batt (you have, ground. Supplies
32,768 that you feed into pin 17 of the clock chip after removing the existing
Xtal. Supposed to hold 1 min per year over
Hi
> On Mar 5, 2018, at 1:38 AM, Don Murray via time-nuts
> wrote:
>
> Hello Time Nuts...
>
>
>
> After 6 years of no troubles, in sync with WWV any
> hour of the day, flawless transfer between
> standard and daylight time my Stauer Titanium
> Atomic wristwatch bite
I dug in deep and there is an adjustment. Thats the great news. The bad
news was never able to put the oven back together.
It was a mess. The insulation stuff deteriorated. (Might mean over heated
oven)
The various wires going to the oscillator are wrapped about 4 times around
the oven. I am sure
Hi
Either tear into the OCXO or go shopping for a new(er) GPSDO. The
Z38xx devices all had a lot more in common with each other than they
did differences. The OCXO design changed from the 10811 to various
more modern designs. The disciplining process seems to have remained
pretty much the same
Crazy thought.Could you just force a DC offset into the EFC assuming the
internal varicap is not out of range.
It would be simply adding a resistor to pull up or down to see if you can
get a bit of pull and allow the dac to move back in range a bit. Its a band
aid.
I know its sort of crazy. But
The easiest solution would be to drill a hole in the right place in
order to access the screw that covers the trimmer hole of the inner OCXO
housing.
Does anyone have a disassembled double oven 10811 at hands and could
take the required measures plus check if any vital parts of the outer
oven are
Or, it you are sure it's the OCXO, go shopping for a new one.There is a
reputable seller with them (the double oven version) for $100 on Ebay.
A couple of things to try... monitor the EFC voltage, power up the unit, and
see if it is changing as it attempts to lock. If it does not, you
What is the rail to rail EFC voltage on the Z3801A? Is it different than the
single oven 10811? My 10811 manual says that the EFC is -5V to +5V, while the
EFC voltage on my ailing Z3801 is ~-2.0V with LH reporting the DAC at
99.996902%.
Haven't had time to dig any further - been
First check for power / ground shorts on the power supply outputs with an ohm
meter. There is a good chance of a shorted tantalum cap somewhere in the
system shutting down the supply. If the power supply is connected to the
system via a connector, disconnect it from the system and see if
I'm not sure what the Z3801A uses for EFC range. Heather uses the EFC
relative command to report the EFC setting. That command reports values from
-100% to 100%. There is a command that reports the DAC input in counts, but
nothing documented that shows volts/count.
Since the DAC is at -2V
We had a brief power outage a few days ago.
My TS2100 didn't power up afterwards. Fuses are fine, AC power delivered to
power supply, which is producing nothing. Nothing looks/smells fried on the
power supply.
Couldn't find data on what the power supply output voltages should be; not in
the
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