Don, you should request that the technician install the new conduit runs using
compression couplings and connectors instead of the more common setscrew type.
Compression couplings make a much better electrical connection between sticks
of conduit which will be better to keep the conduit acting
It's easy to homebrew something using small-signal relays. This has all sorts
of added benefits (remote control, automatic switching, etc.). There have been
lots of discussions on here about the correct contact type you want in those
relays since they don't switch any significant current. Cost
The only real difference when using reasonable-gauge sizes is in physical
durability. Electrically it makes little difference since you effectively have
a large number of radials in parallel so each one carries only a relatively
small percentage of the overall current in the system.
I use 18
A POTS line *should* have predictable latency *during* any particular call.
This is because they operate over circuit-switched networks where the
connection/route is established at call initiation and remains the same
throughout the duration of the call. Essentially, a defined data path is
Just to add: the spark igniter is a flint-type unit. Those used for starting a
torch would probably work too but would be more difficult to aim into the mold
than the gun-like cadweld ones are.
-Bill
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 16, 2015, at 9:35 PM, Cecil chac...@cableone.net wrote:
There
There isn't much difference in loss with the CCS center conductor. If you have
very long runs and power remote equipment with power injectors then the DC
resistance will likely be more of an issue.
You can get RG6 with a solid copper (BC) center conductor. This type is sold
for satellite tv
Check if you can scratch some of the starter compound off of the inside of the
cap from the weld metal container. I've found the older the stuff gets, the
more the starter gets caked onto the cap. I've always been able to scrape off
enough to get it going. The starter compound is white, the
The cheapest protection would be Polyethylene sprinkler pipe. Better would be
rigid pvc electrical conduit. Either will be much cheaper than liquid tight pvc
conduit.
The sprinkler pipe would probably fight you and try to be coily, so I suspect
the rigid pvc conduit would be a better option.
The woods are probably the second most popular beverage location after the
unused winter farm field :-)
The only problems tend to be physical (falling branches breaking the wire, deer
breaking the wire, etc). Make sure to use a fuse at one end of the wire so
that an easy to fix part breaks
Many electric company employees' are from families that have worked in the
industry for several generations. If they worked in the plants they would be
near hundred+ megawatt generators for decades. No one ever worried about it or
saw problems.
To the original poster: the large transmission
Digikey carries Panasonic's line of ac Lin filter caps. They are
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 4, 2015, at 12:52 PM, Roger Graves ve...@shaw.ca wrote:
My 160 TX is causing RFI to one of my baseboard heater programmable
thermostats (switches modes, temperature, when I transmit). The thermostat
Digikey carries the Panasonic ECQ-UL series film capacitors that are rated for
use as ac line bypass caps. I've used them before in thyristor (triacs, in this
case) phase control drivers. They are durable and inexpensive.
They are generally either 250vac or 275vac rated.
-Bill
Sent from my
To add to this, I used 1,000vac rated ceramic caps in a VFD once some years
back and they failed in spectacular fashion. This was in a 277vac system. Such
caps should NOT be used on the AC line!
Use the ones intended for AC line filtering. They tend to be film caps and they
are intended for
Panduit makes these type of lugs too. Some wholesale electric supply houses
have them but you want the copper ones, not the aluminum kind. They are both
plated and look the same, but the copper ones are noticeably heavier. You need
a hydraulic compression tool to install them and the correct
You could use a small Kellums grip (Chinese finger handcuffs) to grab the
cable. I know those can be found small enough.
The other thing you could try would be to run the RG58 around a thimble
(usually used with wire rope), then lace it together with fine twine. The
thimble will give you a
If you're trying to find a suitable box to mount *in the wall* that will fit
two duplex receptacles and some filters, try a 4-11 box (4-11/16 square) that
is 2-1/8 deep (this is a standard size). You can use a plaster ring on this
box to allow two duplex receptacles to mount properly and then
Ganged outlet boxes are no longer a good option. In years past, they were
fairly beefy. Modern ones are lighter gauge steel and too flimsy to hold
together outside of a wall (and too flimsy in the wall too, IMHO). They also
usually use internal cable clamps with a screw that sticks out the back
2% is about what the lead-free electronic solders are (they are a
tin/silver/copper alloy and are mostly tin). Don't bother with the 30%. My
mechanical contractor uses this stuff to fix things he can't reach well enough
to braze. It's not generally used for anything normal.
Coincidentally I
I will add that the ground rod driving attachment for SDS drills (a type of
hammer drill) is your best friend if you have a number of ground rods to
install. Especially in rocky ground. Once you've used one you'll never go back
to a hammer.
It helps to put some plastic around the top of the
What you're missing is that a conductor carrying an *alternating* current, like
RF, also has reactance. Reactance is influenced by capacitance and inductance.
The earth, being essentially somewhere between a lossy conductor and a lossy
dielectric, can influence the electrical properties of the
Galvanized can be a problem in some soils. This is the reason that galvanized
ground rods are no longer recommended in most applications (I think ON4UN even
has a pictured of a rotted galvanized ground rod in his book).
Copper-clad steel ground rods are more common and will generally hold up
playing and it rusts pretty quickly outdoors.
-Bill
-Original Message-
From: k...@myfairpoint.net [mailto:k...@myfairpoint.net]
Sent: Monday, December 15, 2014 11:49 AM
To: Bill Wichers; Topband
Subject: Re: Topband: ground radials conductivity
Bill,
The Back Stay rod
To add to what Jim had said about this smells like a Variable Frequency Drive
[VFD] (which I also think is probably what you're seeing here):
VFDs operate by varying the power to a three phase motor to control speed and
torque. This is done through PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) at a frequency in
Try calling one of the cable TV contractors, many of them are small (as in VERY
small) companies with only a few employees. They might help you out for a
little money or even just some beer.
For the larger vibratory plows, the lawn sprinkler companies are usually
cheaper to use than are the
Probably not much, you're only a very small percentage outside the calibrated
range for that slug. That assumes that the slug is ok (not dropped, etc).
You can check them several ways. I use a calibrated attenuator after the meter
with an hp 436a power meter after that (with the appropriate
You need to use a two-level strip. Ideally, use a proper coax stripper (the
kind that spins around the cable with little razor blades inside). You want
about 1/4 of braid exposed past the outer jacket, the inner dielectric and
foil about the same and then maybe 1/2 or so of center conductor
Just a helpful tidbit for anyone working with motor controllers / drives / VFDs
/ frequency drives / etc. (lots of names for the things :-):
The manufacturers usually specify that the wiring between the VFD and the motor
be in conduit. This is to help with EMI/RFI issues. There is usually also a
Solid will generally hold up better regarding corrosion, but stranded holds up
better if subjected to mechanical stress. Solid is also easier to solder
properly, imho. Pick the type best suited to the area your radial field is in.
If your radial field gets walked on frequently then stranded is
It operates like a send/return loop. You can toggle the signal routing from the
front panel to either use the external device or not. I know for a fact it will
work for the transmit antenna since that's what I use it for, but as far as I
know it can be used for *any* external antenna, but not
If you only need a few like this, try calling some of the utility contractors
in your area. They will always have the dead ends and the guys that also do the
power work will also have the insulators. They will probably be able to sell
you a few without too much trouble.
BTW, the utility guys
strength of the cable
they are designed for.
-Bill
-Original Message-
From: donov...@starpower.net [mailto:donov...@starpower.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 1:40 PM
To: Bill Wichers
Cc: Carl; topband@contesting.com
Subject: Re: Topband: WTB: Guy wire stuff
Tower guys should
The guy-grips (regular / utility style) are supposed to be (according to
catalog data) be of the same strength as the cable they are designed to grip.
In that industry, the line tension is part of the load calculations used for
the pole ratings, guys/anchors, and all the rest of the pole line
With the cheaper pulleys the top can bind between the sheave and sides of the
pulley. Binding rope will chew up the rope as well as add significant friction.
The better sailing-type pulleys that have been mentioned frequently have real
bearings (as opposed to just the sheave running on a pin)
.
-Bill
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:29 PM, Bill Wichers bi...@waveform.net wrote:
It sounds like they weren’t properly fired from what he said about them
crumbling. That, at least, is an easier thing to look for than a messed up
mix. If they have poor QC on these things then I’d
component suppliers
are starting to carry more magnetics generally though :-)
-Bill
-Original Message-
From: Carl [mailto:k...@jeremy.mv.com]
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 10:40 PM
To: Bill Wichers; j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Cc: topband@contesting.com
Subject: Re: Topband: Ferrite
I don't think it was entirely a scam on the part of Amidon. When you think
about it, FT-240-31 is easier to know Ferrite, Toroid, 2.4 OD material #31
is a lot easier to remember than 2631803802 :-) Similar in concept to using
channel numbers for TV instead of frequency assignments -- it makes
Well, I should have them in a few days so I’ll check them out and report back
what I find. Maybe Greg just got some from a bad lot?
-Bill
From: Mike Waters [mailto:mikew...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:36 PM
To: Bill Wichers; topband
Subject: Re: Topband: Ferrite Cores
On Tue
[mailto:mikew...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 3:01 PM
To: Bill Wichers
Cc: topband
Subject: Re: Topband: Ferrite Cores
It's certainly possible.
You can read what he said and see photos at
http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?240056-Need-source-for-Cushcraft-R5-torroidsp=1882177
,
mstang...@comcast.netmailto:mstang...@comcast.net
mstang...@comcast.netmailto:mstang...@comcast.net wrote:
Bill,
Mouser has the Fairrite core 2631803802 for 6.94 single lot quantities.
Mike N2MS
- Original Message -
From: Bill Wichers bi...@waveform.netmailto:bi...@waveform.net
I used to think amidon was expensive too, but just last week I ordered some
cores from them that we're almost 30% cheaper than mouser. I was pretty
surprised. It's probably worth checking prices again if you haven't recently.
-Bill
Sent from my iPad
Why should you? Last I looked, Amidon
I think it depends on how much of the r in sdr is sd. The k3 does all
the baseband modulation/demodulation in DSP, but has a pretty conventional IF
path. Some people consider the K3 an SDR because it doesn't have a conventional
analog modulation/demodulation stage and uses the DSP for more
The copper clad steel center conductor won't make much difference in terms of
loss on 160m. It is an issue if you will be powering Anything through the coax
(like amps or antenna selection relays) since the dc resistance is higher.
If you need solid copper center conductor rg6 you can get that
Easy and cheap option (instead of Teflon insulation): use polyethylene
insulated wire. Almost all of the outdoor-type telephone wire is of this type.
It's the PVC insulated wire that typically deteriorates outside. Polyethylene
has a much longer life outdoors, especially the black stuff which
Sorry for this not being entirely topband-related, but I'm hoping some people
here have tried this. I have a beam on a rotor than has lmr400 feeding it now.
The cable has been damaged by critters that like snacking on polyethylene. I'm
thinking about replacing the lmr400 with fsj4-50b heliax
Usually direct burial cable is just a PE jacket with a flooding compound in
the braid.
Times Microwave makes a direct burial variant of their LMR-400 called
LMR-400-DB. It adds a flooding compound in the braid. The flooding compound
will seal small fractures in the jacket.
BTW, for everyone,
Just a thought, but has anyone checked to see if there is a dead-end / preform
type of grip that will work on the older style phillystran cable? That might
make a better connection than the clamps and thimble setup.
-Bill
-Original Message-
From: Topband
I'm working on a new matching network for my vertical. The vertical is a wire
cage of approx. 82 feet high, and I use it on 160, 80 and 40 meters. The
matching network is a low-pass L network. The new matching network is remotely
tunable with 5 different capacitors selected by vacuum relays and
Regarding the copper clad steel (CCS) center conductor, you can easily get RG6
with a solid bare copper (BC) center conductor too. BC center conductor is
important for security cameras (which are baseband), and for satellite
applications (which send DC over the center conductor to power the LNB
The inductors are homebrew, but beefy. Basically I use 1/8 thick G10 phenolic
with holes drilled in a cross vise (to maintain spacing), 8 gauge wire for the
windings, and three aluminum brackets shaped like this \___/ arranged like a
triangle on each end to hold the G10 in place. It ends up
You could use the 18 gauge insulated stranded CCS (Copper Clad Steel) wire that
Davis RF and The Wireman sell. The PE jacket is a matte black color and not
very visible from any distance away. It's pretty strong too, and not very
expensive. I use it a lot for wire antennas.
I'm amazed your 22
: Bill Wichers bi...@waveform.net
To: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
Cc: HAROLD SMITH JR w0ri...@sbcglobal.net; Shoppa, Tim
tsho...@wmata.com; n...@contesting.com; topband@contesting.com
Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2014 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: Topband: Submerging variable caps in oil as substituteforvacuum
I was reading this thread and all the concerns about oil in the capacitor. Has
anyone ever thought about trying SF6 as a dielectric? It's commonly used in
high voltage (hundreds of kilovolts) switchgear by utilities.
Just a thought, more curiosity than anything else.
-Bill
Sent from my
That's not entirely correct... Triplen harmonics are created by non-linear
loads, but the voltage developed on the neutral as a result of them is a result
of voltage drop between the source of the problem and the return which will
be one or more utility transformers. The farther you are from
Triplen harmonics, in most facilities, are caused primarily by lighting
ballasts and electronic (rectifier-input) power supplies. The newer switching
power supplies have a power factor controller in the first stage that acts
something like a current regulator preceding the actual switching
It seems to me that whether or not one grounded the far end of a radial would
make no difference. I don't see why one would want to ground the end of their
radial, but if it was done with a ground rod that's not really much of a
ground for rf. Think about it: a single ground rod at the base of
The bar idea would probably significantly reduce the allowable tension on the
cable, similar to what knotting does, due to the force at each bite point
weakening the cable. I suppose if the cable was sufficiently oversized this
wouldn't pose a problem, but I'd certainly expect such a clamping
Using grommets to create additional leakage/creepage distance is clever! I
never would have thought of that!
Best is to turn the material on a lathe, but in a pinch you can use a bolt as a
mandrel in a drill press and do it that way. Not as nice, but lots more people
have drill presses than
Delrin is a trademark for acetal. Acetal is the generic name so you'll have a
lot better time finding acetal most likely.
My recommendation is to get the *black* acetal as it will hold up much better
in UV outdoors. It machines easily, but it's a lot harder (and stronger) than
nylon. Acetal
replaced it with is about 5 years old now and still like
new.
-Bill
-Original Message-
From: Charlie Cunningham [mailto:charlie-cunning...@nc.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 2:33 PM
To: Bill Wichers; 'Greg - ZL3IX'; 'Topband Reflector'
Subject: RE: Topband: Insulator problems
That sounds like no-ox on DC plant connections. You'll find after years and
years that the copper will still be shiny and new looking in the
grease-protected areas. The idea is to keep out oxygen so that the connection
doesn't corrode since the corrosion is what increases the resistance.
There are higher-quality F female connectors with a blue dielectric insert (not
the normal white or clear insert). They are rated up to 2GHz if I remember
correctly, but they also have better machining on the threads and a better
center conductor terminal. The male connector isn't really any
Just a suggestion: the TB Snap'n'seal connectors also have Seal nuts which
can be bought separately. They're intended to seal out water from the thread
area on the F connector. They are basically a metal shell with some threads
that captivates an O-ring such that tightening them against the
Squirrel chew is the biggest cause for aerial outages for most telecom
operators. It's a big deal -- you can even get single and double-armored fiber
to help with that. It's less of a problem with underground cables although I
know of a large telephone outage in northern Michigan several years
Just FYI, the jacket is probably polyethylene (PE) and not vinyl. Most outdoor
cabling used by the telecom industry will have a PE jacket since it holds up
very well over time. The only reason I mention that is that the PE jacket won't
self-extinguish, it's flammable and will spread a fire
While I have tried this myself, you could try black UHMW for your supports on
the middle posts between the ones taking tension. UHMW is Ultra High Molecular
Weight polyethylene. The black stuff holds up outside pretty well. It wouldn't
be hard to make a small support with a bottom and top piece
Um, no... Not really -- you do NOT need modulators and demodulators to use
fiber for *analog* applications. If you want to run your signal over a
commercial transport network you will (to digitize the signal and deal with
framing for SONET, Ethernet etc.). Cable TV systems run their RF over
I see your point, since the signal is undergoing a conversion. My thinking was
modulator = baseband to some kind of RF or digital signal, i.e. something very
different from the original signal in terms of content of the waveform. I
wasn't thinking of using a band-limited section of spectrum
I haven't ever used them for this purpose, but I used them a lot back when I
was working with a recording studio. They are commonly known as TRS
connectors (tip, ring, sleeve). There are lots of patch bays on ebay too --
just look for ADC (a manufacturer) and bay.
The connectors were intended
Black acetal (delrin) rod will hold up better outdoors over time than will
polycarbonate (lexan). Acetal is stronger too.
-Bill
[Sent using Blackberry Messaging]
- Original Message -
From: topband-boun...@contesting.com topband-boun...@contesting.com
To: 'Jim F.' j_fit...@yahoo.com
Cc:
I would expect an up and over to clear the wall would result in a
choke-like effect on the radial and would, at best, reduce the radial's
effectiveness.
It should be easy to just drill some small (maybe 1/4?) holes through
the wall in a few places to pass the radials through. With a decent
hammer
The directional drilling rigs used for fiber installation under
highways, etc., aren't *attachments*, they are big hydraulic machines
with 6 figure price tags. I doubt very much anyone would lone one out,
and I wouldn't want to borrow one if I didn't know how to run it. Also,
directional drilling
I'm not sure Deer can see the orange color. All the hunting clothing is
orange, or camo orange, and supposedly the other hunters can then see
each other but the deer don't see the orange color. Just a thought...
You might be better off using red.
-Bill
Why solder?
Jus' clean and twist wire
Small C-taps are available that can be used as splices. Even the small
ones are usually for large(ish) (by antenna standards) wire, generally
8+ gauge. There may be smaller ones available. Common manufacturers are
TB, Burndy, and Panduit. The smaller C-taps can be installed with a
mechanical
Acetic acid is involved in the silicone curing process. I forget the exact
mechanism but it should be easy enough to look up.
Btw, someone mentioned eletrical tape becoming a sticky mess over time. I
have found that the better grades of tape are much less prone to that. The
cheap black
Weller's butane soldering iron works really well. It's not a particularly cheap
unit but it should last you a long time (the butane is refillable).
For weatherproofing, I use butyl rubber splicing tape (it doesn't have
adhesive). Stretch it about 30-50 percent while applying it as a spiral over
Tom's argument about l/c energy storage networks would result in misleading
ammeter readings, I.e. Are those amps going somewhere or just circulating back
and forth? Regular radials would have the current on the meter going
somewhere (real power that does work, in this case the work would be
You can get chrome steel balls too and they are *very* hard (usually
used for ball bearings). You have to drill them with solid carbide
drills. I don't think it would be possible to thread the holes using
normal taps though.
-Bill
[snip]
Very hard steel balls such as carbon or tungsten are
Much of the outdoor wire dielectric won't change much with age. If
you're looking at the really old rubber stuff you'll get a lot of change
since that material degrades over time. The newer stuff tends to be
polyethylene-based which holds up *very* well over time.
The C Rural wire that's been
If you're lucky, you might be able to grab the innermost end of the wire
and pull it out of the center of the coil (I'm assuming your rotted-away
reel left a coil of cable). There are actually commercial pull-out
type packages of wire made similarly to this. The wire will come out
with extra
Typical fishing line is made of nylon. Nylon will stretch far more than the
steel in the WD-11A and will be of limited usefullness as an additional
strength member as a result. This is a similar problem to that of fiber optic
cable since the glass fiber doesn't stretch. In fiber optic cables
If you're in an area where DSL service is available try asking the foreman at
your phone company's local service yard. Rural C wire is not a twisted pair so
it is generally replaced when a customer orders newer service that uses higher
frequencies than the POTS that the rural C wire was
You can clean up silicone residue using acetone. Acetone will etch many
plastics though so test it on the material you want to clean before
using it.
-Bill
Whatever you do, don't get it on your eyeglasses' lens. Be careful
not to
get the stuff on your clothes, or spread it around on things
] On Behalf Of Guy
Olinger K2AV
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 2:41 PM
To: Bill Wichers
Cc: N1BUG; Topband
Subject: Re: Topband: Beverage strain auto-disconnects
Roger that, but not sure I want to use acetone on clothes if it etches
plastic. Lot of cloth has synthetic thread blend in the fabric
I suspect the corroded foil would have little measurable effect on the
coax's shielding effectiveness for lower frequencies. The foil is
primarily there for the higher frequencies, the braid for the lower
frequencies (that's a generalization, but close).
I would be more concerned over how the
That sounds like the power supply is missing the usual common-mode input filter
that switching power supplies nearly always have.
There are companies like corcom that make emi filters for the line. Some of
these filters are integrated with the IEC power connector for the power cord.
If your
A lot, probably most, of the really cheap UPSes are just switching step-up
converters. The easy way to spot them is from the crazy ratings like 1000va
but only 3 amps (which should be about 360va). They sell them based on people
thinking bigger is better even though a .36 power factor is pretty
You might check Coaxial Dynamics (CDI). Their slugs are interchangeable with
the Bird slugs and they have some ranges that Bird might not, apparently. Some
of the less common Bird slugs (like the 2500 watt ranges) are sometimes cheaper
from CDI too. Ever since Bird stopped using the metal shell
I noticed something recently about at least one of my spools of
flooded
quad-aluminum-shield RG-6. Since the flooding compound is only in
the
outer shield (the braid right under the outer jacket), it seems
possible
that under certain circumstances, water could still wick its way along
the
The inner foil should be bonded directly to the dielectric surrounding
the
center conductor. Otherwise, the cable will have an outdoor life
issue. I
can't recall the last cable I saw without the innermost foil bonded to
the
dielectric. I suppose someone somewhere makes bad cable that will wick
I buy 5,000 foot reels (which is the minimum order from my supplier) of
18 awg solid copper wire from a local wholesale wire supply house. You
should be able to get most electrical supply houses to order that for
you. My local shop I've worked with for years, they specialize in
communications and
It's probably worth noting that while the LED will run on DC *at full
intensity*, many/most of the controllers dim the light using PWM so in
that case there is a square wave of varying duty cycle driving the LED.
Human eyeballs integrate the pulses and perceive the light level as
being brighter or
Just FYI for anyone interested, there is a listing on Ebay for item
#140709240497 which is a 2,000 foot reel of 22 gauge insulated stranded
wire. While it's a little lightweight at only 22 awg, it's by far the
cheapest I've seen for a good quantity reel of wire. If you need some
cheap radial wire
That material that looks like superman's zip cord is known as Rural C
drop wire. My book says that comes in 18.5 gauge (yes, half a gauge!)
which is RUS standard #PE-7 spec #4295, 14 and 12 gauge (AWG)
configurations which is Bell System Type spec #4283. It lists it as
30% copper CCS wire with a
You can get coax with a PE outer jacket, although I think they usually
use MDPE instead of HDPE for coax. All you need to do is order the
direct-bury type, which should almost always have a PE jacket. Getting
the flooded kind will also help if you do get any tooth-holes in your
cable.
BTW, it's
My vertical (without toploading) is a 6-wire cage. I used the 18awg insulated
copperweld and spreaders I made form aluminum sheet and extrusions. It tunes
well, although I can't compare it to a single wire since I've only ever used
the cage.
The big downsides I have with my setup:
1 - there is
Why not use a DPDT relay as a bypass... This would allow the antenna
side to be shorted to ground and the preamp input to be terminated into
50 or 75 ohms via a resistor, or in the other position the preamp
would be connected to the antenna. Essentially the relay would be wired
the same way as an
I would add that sweep tested doesn't necessarily mean the cable is
good quality. I've seen some sweep tested RG6 made for satellite use
that had maybe a 10% braid. I considered it to be horrible quality and
would never use it.
Keeping with a known brand that has a history of making a quality
Have you made any loss measurements across transformers constructed in
this way? I'm curious what you've been seeing performance-wise as I've
been thinking of constructing a similar transformer for a different
purpose (essentially in place of a balun).
-Bill KB8WYP
Photos of K8OZ FCP
Two things to keep in mind here:
1 - The shield of the CATV drop should be grounded at the entrance to
every subscriber along the route as per electrical code.
2 - The shield of the hardline on the poles is bonded to the strand
(steel support wire) at each tap and possibly everywhere if it's the
It shouldn't take so much force that you need pliers to slide the
connector body onto the cable. That sounds to me like the foil is
jamming up inside the cable/connector. What I've always done with the
quad-shield (and tri-shield) cable is to remove the outer foil and then
fold both braids back
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