in my simplistic way of settting up an antenna, link coupling a tank
circuit, the top of which is connected to a half wave long inverted L,
the bottom of which (right now) is connected to a 5/16 wave FCP
I know what power goes out of the top of the coil must come into the
bottom of the coil
Bob Kupps wrote:
So I modeled a half wave dipole in free space and sure enough the wire
segments on each side of the feed point carried equal current. I then placed
a resistive load at the center of one half-element (to simulate? a lossy
return) and now see that those segments no longer
DOES ANYONE REMEMBER
Gustav Kirchhoff
-Original Message-
From: K4SAV radi...@charter.net
To: topband topband@contesting.com
Sent: Sat, Aug 4, 2012 11:04 am
Subject: Re: Topband: return current - what is it?
Bob Kupps wrote:
So I modeled a half wave dipole in free space and sure
That is correct, as Mr Kirchoff said.
Price W0RI
You are misinterpreting what you are seeing. When you put a resistor in
one side of a dipole you modify the current distribution in both sides
of the dipole and the side with the resistor has a large decrease in
current at the point where
After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find
that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the
breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require
soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been
lost in
On 8/4/2012 12:22 PM, Kenneth Grimm wrote:
After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find
that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the
breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require
soldering. My non-AC electric
So I modeled a half wave dipole in free space and sure enough the wire
segments on each side of the feed point carried equal current. I then placed
a resistive load at the center of one half-element (to simulate? a lossy
return) and now see that those segments no longer carry equal currents,
On Sat, Aug 04, 2012 at 01:22:42PM -0400, Kenneth Grimm wrote:
After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find
that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the
breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require
soldering.
Ken, what I use here to repair field connections is a small handheld
butane torch with an adjustable flame. Mine came from eBay for under 10
bucks and uses Benzomatic fuel for refill and does an awesome job. Take
along some fine grit sandparer, a wire brush, and some flux. I use
flexible
Hi,
The butane soldering tools have been mentioned and I have used them too.
For heavier work I had to resort to a regular propane torch. That was
for heavy dipole wire and the center conductor of RG-8 up a tower in a
blizzard. There is always a way grin.
73,
Bill KU8H
Soldering in wild Alaska/KL7. Two hands and a mouth. Wire supported in one
hand, butane/propane torch in other, solder roll in the mouth (don't tongue the
contents) with a long lead of solder feeding the joint. Face downwind to avoid
burns.
After suffering numerous heating related failures at
I use a soldering iron tip with a regular propane torch. The tip
attaches to just about any torch with a setscrew. Slip it over the
end of the torch, tighten setscrew. I haven't looked for them
recently. I bought this at a local hardware store 30 years ago for
about $2 I think. It gets hot
Tom W8JI wrote:
If you use enough segments so the program calculates small steps along
length, and a ground independent current source, you'll find current on each
side of the feedpoint exactly equal no matter what resistance you insert.
Yes current on each side of the feedpoint is
I use a standard propane torch equipped with
a large copper soldering tip. It's an
attachment that fits on the end of the torch, and is
secured with a small thumb screw.
73,
Charlie, N0TT
On Sat, 4 Aug 2012 13:22:42 -0400 Kenneth Grimm gr...@sbc.edu writes:
After suffering through our
Weller's butane soldering iron works really well. It's not a particularly cheap
unit but it should last you a long time (the butane is refillable).
For weatherproofing, I use butyl rubber splicing tape (it doesn't have
adhesive). Stretch it about 30-50 percent while applying it as a spiral over
By putting a small layer of tape on the connection first, then the
Butyl, and the a more substantial layer of tape, it is much easier to
inspect the connection should this be required later down the road.
Butyl on coax or wire connections is a real bear to remove beause it
sticks to
I sold dozens to a contractor that was supplying RR ham gear to Gulf War
II. The package included TS-450's and feedback was they worked very well for
out of hamband phone patches, etc.
Carl
- Original Message -
From: W0UCE w0...@nc.rr.com
To: 'Herb Schoenbohm' he...@vitelcom.net;
Hi Bill,
Tom, it's worth adding to this that trying to make current measurements in
the ground using 60hz is pretty useless for another reason: induced
currents from the ac power system (especially in north america). 60hz will
be present on just about anything -- you'll even see it on a
Tom W8JI wrote:
I think you may be selecting the wrong type of source, if you are using
EZNEC.
In the source-type selection, chose SI, not I. A split source places
the source at a segment junction, so you can see current leaving each
terminal of the source.
I forgot about the SI
Herb's suggestion is worthy, but needs a qualification as to the kind of tape
to use.
Over time the adhesive layer of just about all tape will separate from the tape
itself. This will happen when installed in the field or even if left for a
couple of years or more on an indoor shelf. The
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