<http://www.serbiaincoming.com/magazine/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/serbian_kafana-660x330.jpg>
 


Meeting place for Serbs – kafana


Posted by:  <http://www.serbiaincoming.com/magazine/author/fly-orient/> Fly 
Orient 14/03/2015 in  
<http://www.serbiaincoming.com/magazine/category/culture/> Culture  
<http://www.serbiaincoming.com/magazine/meeting-place-for-serbs-kafana/#respond>
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Serbs have centuries-old tradition of drinking black coffee, and it was a 
tradition inherited from the time of the Turkish reign in this region.

The first “kafanas” (coffee houses) were opened in the East, and this 
“institution” was introduced here by the Ottoman conquerors.

It is quite certain that over time Turks opened also the first kafanas besides 
khans and caravanserai (caravansara in English), roadside inns where travelers 
could rest and recover from the day’s journey.

After Belgrade was surrendered to the Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent on August 
28th, 1521, the very next year the first recorded kafana in Serbia was opened 
somewhere in Dorćol in Belgrade, and there only black Turkish coffee was served.

Today there is no written data on where this coffee house was located, how it 
looked, or who the owner was, but based on the assumptions and the interiors of 
the later Turkish coffee houses, it is assumed that it was a building that 
could accommodate a larger number of people with no tables, instead there were 
minderluks (a type of a Turkish sofa) covered with colorful Turkish carpets, 
and the coffee was served in smoking ibriks (coffee pots).

Unlike today’s coffee shops, nothing but black Turkish coffee was served in 
these first kafanas, and with coffee guests could only get narghile (hookah, 
waterpipes) and chibouks. Back then in 1522 the first coffee house in Serbia 
earned its historical significance as the oldest kafana in Europe, since the 
first coffee houses in London, Marseilles, Vienna and Leipzig were opened an 
entire century later.

During centuries the concept of kafana (coffee house) changed also the 
lifestyle in town, and people went to kafanas not only to eat and drink, 
furthermore, kafana became  
<http://serbia.com/kafana-the-center-of-life-in-serbia/> the center of all 
significant events.

News was spread here, business deals were concluded, marriage agreements were 
made; in corners of kafanas governments were pulled down and new countries were 
created. Even Miloš Obrenović returned to power for the second time in a 
kafana, “The Great or Prince’s Breewery”.

The significance of kafana in our region is testified by the historical data – 
these were the places where the audience saw the first film, the first theatre 
plays, the first book fair was organized in a kafana.

While the streets were lighted with lanterns, the first electric street light 
was lit in 1880 at the corner of Kolarčeva Street and Makedonska Street, in 
front of the kafana “Proleće” (Spring), later named “Hamburg”. Today 
symbolically this street light stands in front of the building of EDB 
Elektrodistribucija.

Also the first phone rang in the kafana “Tri lista duvana” (Three tobacco 
leaves) at the corner of Kneza Miloša Street and King Aleksandar Boulevard. In 
the famous “Kafana ?” i.e. “Znak pitanja” (Question mark), the first pool party 
was played in 1834 in Belgrade.

However, there is an old manuscript that speaks of a similar “institution” from 
the time of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian, who was  
<http://serbia.com/justiniana-prima-empresss-town/> born on the territory of 
Serbia. According to Dr Vidoje Golubović, there are traces of existence of some 
kind of kafana in the 6th century Singidunum, today’s Belgrade.

Byzantine writer and traveler Procopius, while describing Singidunum, writes 
about pandokeona, a kind of inns where also the entire social and commercial 
life of the city took place.

Those were quadrangular buildings with one upper floor and a spacious atrium 
and a drinking fountain in the center of it, while roofed halls leading to 
separate rooms surrounded the entire building, and the central hall was used 
for serving meals and drinks.

Kafanas as meeting places of artists and writers started being opened in 
Belgrade from the year of 1830. They were often named spontaneously and 
symbolically.

To date the most famous kafanas are “Tri šešira” (Three hats) and “Dva bela 
goluba” (Two white pigeons) in Skadarlija, kafana “?” in Kralja Petra Street 
across the street from Saborna Church, and once famous kafana “Dardaneli” 
located between Čika-Ljubina Street and Vasina Street, that doesn’t exist 
anymore.

Kafana, mehana, bircuz, birtija, for centuries has had a high status and 
therefore it’s no wonder that it was one of the most significant social 
institutions.

 

Source:  <http://www.serbia.com/> Serbia.com

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