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Keeping the Danube shipshape: how blue, and green, is it? | The Budapest
Times


Written by Alexander Stemp

9-11 minutes

  _____  

Much has been said about the illustrious River Danube and all its splendour
in chronicles and popular culture alike. But beyond the flotillas of
over-told stories, tourist puns and endless clichés, there is the less
obvious managing of the extensive waterway that must take place for the
benefit of everyone, including composer Strauss to preserve the legacy of
his spirited "Blue Danube". The immensity of this operation requires
continual maintenance from various organisations, before tourism is even
considered. 

The Danube has always been a vital Black Forest to Black Sea trade link,
with Budapest en route. A total 2415 kilometres of its overall 2850
kilometres length is navigable. Remarkably, the Black Sea today also links
up with the North Sea, via the 170-kilometre Rhine-Main-Danube Canal that
connects Kelheim and Bamberg in Germany. Since the canal's completion in
1992, both the Danube and Rhine are now part of a trans-European waterway
from Rotterdam in the Netherlands to Sulina in Romania, with 3500 kilometres
in between. Theoretically, one could "sail" from London to Kyiv without halt
via these two seas and the River Dnieper.

This international passage, which wends through Germany, Austria, Hungary,
Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova and Ukraine, is only navigable
for most large ocean ships from the Black Sea for the first 170 kilometres
inland, to Braila, east Romania. Then it's all change for the millions of
tonnes of cargo as smaller craft take over to continue upstream until
completion of voyage. Spectacular sights line the way, in particular the
Kazan Straits where Romania joins Serbia, Belgrade, Budapest, the Danube
Bend in Hungary, Bratislava, Vienna, Linz and many more.

Apart from a few minor and secondary routes leading away from the Danube,
the only major navigable rivers that link up to it are the Drava and the
Tisza, which both also feature in Hungary, and the Sava, which joins to the
world-famous river in Belgrade.

There are 46 ports of international importance along the entire way, as well
as some minor ones. Port-sides in Hungary alongside the Duna, as it is known
by the locals, include Győr-Gönyű, Komárom, Dunaújváros, Dunaföldvár, Baja
and Mohács. There is also the Szabadkikötő dockland at Csepel Island, south
of the capital. Large-scale vessels up to 110 metres long and 12 metres wide
can occasionally pass through.

To achieve a sufficient navigational system, the Danube Commission was
established in Belgrade in 1948 to provide, develop and ensure smooth
running, general efficiency and free-flowing navigation. The commission was
set up by seven countries (then) bordering the Danube. Members today are
representatives from Austria, Bulgaria, Croatia, Germany, Hungary, Moldova,
Slovakia, Romania, Russia, Ukraine and Serbia.



The organisation's aim is to continually improve navigational conditions and
provide forecast information for all crews alike. In addition to the
regulations, the commission promotes good economic and cultural relations
between all the member states, as well as with other countries. Since 1954
this authority has been based in Budapest. Its official languages are
German, Russian and French, as clearly cited at its front entrance on
Benczúr utca in District VI.

Then there is the International Commission of Protection of the Danube
River, based in Vienna. It works more with environmental issues that clearly
relate to today's values. Other organisations also provide solutions and
assistance towards general maintenance, safety and all-round improvements to
the river itself, the shorelines and anything related to a better balance of
nature, including tackling dangerous waste and general pollution.

Water depth "allowance" must be considered, as occasional limitations for
each ship have to be recognised before sailing. Weather conditions and high
or low water levels frequently vary. Then there are the occasional floods,
unexpected rocks, ice and underwater currents that have to be worked around.
Climate change means continually adapting to new conditions. There may be
less snow and heavy ice on the river these days but springs and autumns are
significantly shorter than before and summers are hotter and longer.

All this comes before the final compromise that must be made about how much
cargo is allowed on board to balance out these delicate proportions, and
prevent any vessel from either drifting, getting stuck, overturning or so
forth (remember the recent Suez Canal blocking). Regardless of actual
weather and general water quantity, for a quick referral, the minimum
recommended safety requirement for depth of water beneath any large cargo
ship is 2.5 metres to avoid all possible obstacles.

For the future, it's a priority to modernise the Danube fleet towards
eventual zero emissions, part of greening ships and harbours to meet
modern-day standards and overcome environmental concerns. Currently, the
coronavirus pandemic has placed many rivers at a critical crossroads with
having to adapt to new challenges.

Consider also inland relations, transnational cross-border co-operation and
loading on and off. Port hinterlands, especially roads and railways, must
enable effective transit of goods for the next stages. As for the
administrative side of things, updated and approved travel documents and
Customs clearance forms must be provided, plus much more. Crews and
workforces need to be organised.

When it comes to supporting Danube tourism projects, the scope is enormous.
Benefits can be assured, provided anything "new" will be sustainable. There
is no shortage of attractions for active and passive holidaymakers alike,
with plenty of national parks along the river as well as many on -the-spot
leisure vessels, in particular the very busy
Budapest-Szentendre-Esztergom-Vienna service that operates daily.

The Danube delta, known as the Delta Dunării by Romanians, is the largest
river delta in the European Union and is spectacular. The greater part of
this unique biosphere reserve lies in Romania and is accessible for ships
and general traffic alike at Tulcea. Its smaller, northern part is situated
by the southern Ukraine borderline. Both parts are the last downstream stop
before the Black Sea.

The delta is about 4000 square kilometres, home to an abundance of wildlife.
This impressive expanse of water, islands and reeds from Tulcea directly to
the Black Sea itself became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991 and is very
much worth a visit.

The lakes and marshes host innumerable freshwater fish species. The wetlands
support vast flocks of migratory birds with over 300 species, including the
symbolic storks and pelicans. Fishermen are still active at certain points.
However, there have been mismanaged mishaps when some of the river's
resources and various old-style infrastructure has been managed in an
environmentally damaging way.

In recent generations, still within living memory, there have been
alterations to the channel relating to various newish developments in order
to promote tourism. Large hydropower dams are now in place along the river
and its tributaries, to which the basin has to adapt regardless of all else.

The largest hydropower dam and reservoir system along the Danube is found at
the 117-kilometre-long Djerdap Gorge. This peak operation system consists of
two dams, Iron Gate I and II operated jointly by Serbia and Romania,
producing about 37 percent of the total energy used in Serbia and 27 percent
in Romania.

Although impressive, these spelt misfortune for the fish populations, and
the possibility of constructing a "fish pass" to enable migration is under
review. Downstream from there, much is free-flowing all the way. The views
are splendid and tourism in this region flourishes. While the Danube region
is of high importance for tourism, as well as shipping, the vulnerabilities
remain the same.

Recent times have seen new infrastructure relating to cycling and hiking put
in place. For a splendid glimpse of high scenery near Budapest I highly
recommend visiting, preferably by bike, both sides of the Danube Bend. This
immediate area, with Nagymaros, Visegrád Castle, Esztergom, Szob and the
Dömösi peaks, is a wonder and splendour in every sense, epitomising the
"Blue Danube" more so than anywhere else I can think of. You will see. After
spending years here in Hungary, it is always a pleasure for me to look out
onto this river from anywhere, at any time of year, and to really appreciate
its momentous worth.

But as we "depend" on this and other areas to provide a great day out, so
the Danube, its Bend and elsewhere also depend on us to look after and
preserve it too.

If an extravagant river cruise is out of reach, then to see and appreciate
this waterway up close take to the Danube Bike Trail, which proceeds along
the entire length. It's 1700 kilometres from the Hungarian capital to the
Black Sea and Romanian Riviera along this lane. However, it's not so far and
perhaps less demanding to cycle in the other direction towards southern
Germany.

To cycle the entirety, 50 kilometres on average would be required every day
for two months. This I would love to do. But until I get the go-ahead from
my family, continual cycling around the immediate shorelines and ships will
have to suffice just as well.

 

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