I know what you mean. I transplanted all my performance parts from a Volvo
142 to a Volvo 144 wagon (overbored engine, ported and polished head, new
cam, header, sway bars and lowering coils and Koni shocks, alloy wheels and
good tires) and my handling felt WAY different. The chassis was pretty much
the same except for the rear end was a wagon back instead of a trunk. And
oh my, the car flexed like crazy. That was back when I was more stupid than
I am now though. It was a valuable lesson to learn. I could actually FEEL
the rear end flexing. That's what happens when you fix handling
sloppiness...you get to find out what the nex bit of slop is.
-----Original Message-----
From: jason wolfe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:26 PM
To: Sentra Mailing List
Subject: Re: SML: RE: interior designz!
>I would think that it would be unnecessary even in autocross
>unless you needed it to get chassis stiffness. But there's probably better
>ways to get stiffness without the full cage. And you probably have to have
>a highly tweaked car to even get to that point.
Actually, chassis stiffness is kind of an issue for B13's. B14's are
stiffer, but they can stand improvement as well. I agree with you that a
rollcage is overkill for a street car, but I know plenty of rice boys who
have full 10 point cages that have never raced in a sanctioned event.
Anyway, there is an automotive grade expanding foam that Mike Kojima used on
his Project 300ZX that is pretty cheap (about $100 for enough to do the
entire car) and can improve chassis stiffness by a very large amount, if
used properly. I have considered getting some, and probably will, once I
have some discretionary cash. Of course, I also have a pretty built
suspension--stiff springs and struts, front and rear sway-bars and front and
rear strut tower braces. I will probably also get the NuTech lower front
control arm brace at some point. It's technically overkill, since I don't
race in any form, but a stiff car is such a joy to drive. I hate slop.
JWolfe
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