That's because the T-Top bar is not welded in. It is glued and riveted in place. Dad and I took a T-top Daytona apart a while ago. Epoxy and Rivets aren't a bad thing except when they begin to fail due to time and cyclic stress (much like an airplane fuselage) A rear shock tower brace helps quite a bit, at least it did on Dad's other T-top Daytona. If you wanted to be really anal, you could disassemble the car and weld the T-bar in place along with some bracing under the car, but for that effort you'd be better off starting with a hardtop car.
Best Regards, Stefan Mullikin Portland, OR PNW-SDAC Founding Member 1979 Porsche 924 (Carrera GTS Replica and GRM $2007 Challenger) 1980 Fiat X-1/9 (never ending 2.2 turbo swap) 1987 Plymouth Sundance Turbo (Daily Driver) 1987 Shelby CSX #106 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I have owned T-top cars for a total of 10 years. In those years I put > probably > 120,000 miles on two different cars. One car had 173k on it when I sold it, > the > other had 140k. Neither car had a windshield issue. > I will say though that the t-top cars are much more flexible than the hard > top > Daytonas. ___________REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING_________ ShelbyDodge mailing list [email protected] http://www.imagilist.com/mailman/listinfo/shelbydodge
