Title: RE: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim
I don't know if I can describe a "touchy feely" job. I place the shim into the hosel, tilt the hosel and catch the shim while sliding/twisting slightly to shove the head in place. If you can't shove the head on with a piece of twist tie, use something smaller.
 
TFlan
 
----- Original Message -----
From: brian
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim

Tom,
 
Sorry to bother you again on this, but I went to the resource page on clubmaker online and kept getting errors.  I have one of those Hireko 6061's with a broken shaft, and could pull the wee little bit of shaft left with the propane torch.  Beside as has been discussed on the forum, those things are heat sinks.  Anyway, I drilled out the old shaft.  The new shaft seems a little loose, so I was thinking about using your shim method with the wire coil.
 
Now for the stupid part of my question, if I catch the wire between the hosel and the shaft, it won't go on.  If I don't it just slides up the shaft above the hosel.  Of course, this probably means the gap isn't big enough for the wire, but I just thought I would see how you get the head over the shim.
 
I guess I'll just use your fishing line shim if I can't get it to work.
 
Thanks, Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Tom Flanagan
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:50 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim

I have a reel filled with what I think is about 18 or 20# monofilament. I'm not sure of the size since I've had it for years. As I recall I had a spool that contained something like 500 yards of the stuff. However, in answer to your question. Just lay the mono along the tip with about 1/4" or so sticking below the tip. Tilt the hosel (or the shaft tip) enough to just catch the extended mono and tip at the same time. Then twist and push the hosel/head onto the shaft part way. When you get near to the final insertion depth, snap the mono off at the top of the hosel. Then shove the head in place the rest of the way. You snap the line off before seating the head so none of it sticks out the top. If you seat the head and then cut the mono you'll have a small piece showing, or if you're using a ferrule, the mono with interfere with a flush installation. If one piece alongside the tip isn't enough you can lay another line opposite the first one, doubling the thickness. That also helps center the tip in the hosel.
 
I also use grocery store twist-ties, which when stripped of the paper/plastic coating, are a little larger than the mono I have. You can also use copper wire - 22 gauge, 20 gauge, 18 gauge, etc. It works just as well. Further, I reshafted a Taylor 320 driver last week with a .335" Grafalloy. The Taylor shaft is .350". I made a coil shim using a stripped twist tie wrapped around the tip of the Grafalloy. The guy who owns the club is a big hitter. I watched him on the range yesterday, hitting the crap out of the ball. No problems whatsoever. I didn't expect any since I've done this a zillion times but there's always the wondering ;-)
 
TFlan
 
----- Original Message -----
From: brian
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:47 AM
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim

Hey Tom,

I remember perhaps a year back you describing the fish line shim you use to do everything in one fell swoop method, but I am just about to try it, and can't find the email describing the process.  I'm building a putter with a bent shaft and the darn thing keeps turning after I set it so I thought your shim would work.

Thanks,

Brian

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