RE: ShopTalk: Titlest 975's Shaft Removal

[Royce Engler]

Question 1....I'll put on my management consulting hat.  I occasionally tell my clients that they need to "fire" a couple of their customers.  If a customer is costing you more in time and aggravation than he is bringing in, you don't want him.  It's not personal, it's business.  I'd take the guy's return and charge him a hefty "restocking" fee.   Question 2...putting on my engineer hat...As long as you are heating from the outside, the temperature profile will go lower as you get closer to the center.  Heat flows from hot region to cooler region.  A hot rod works because you heat it up before you put it into the shaft, and the heat energy flows from the hot rod into the surrounding shaft material.  The only way the oil would help is if you preheated it, then poured it down the shaft.  I'd say that for safety reasons you wouldn't want to do that.  Both your method and TFlan's method are great approaches to the problem.  The objective is to get a certain amount of heat energy to flow to the epoxy bond area.  If you try to do it with a torch or heat gun, the concentration of heat burns the paint before enough is transferred to the epoxy.  Your method raises the temperature of the entire head so that the heat energy has time to flow throughout the material, and oh, by the way, also to the epoxy bond area.  As an old engineer once told me...if you have a good horse, ride him    I know you probably know all this, but I figured some of us newbees might benefit from the background discussion.    Best Regards, Royce Engler       -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Richard Kennedy Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 2:37 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: ShopTalk: Titlest 975's Shaft Removal Question???? Why don't newbee's listen to people that have been doing this crap for years, 22 years in my case Tom F has over 35 years (I think).     When attempting to remove a shaft from a 975 "PLEASE" preheat the head first.    I use boiling water (approx. 15 minutes) Tom F. uses an old deep fryer filled with sand.    Both do the same job, and both methods save time, money and keep you from pulling your hair out, which is getting a little thin on top anyway.      A newbee bought a puller & a drill fixture from me a little over a month ago, called about 2 weeks ago to tell me that there is something wrong with the puller that he purchased from me and asked if he could return it for a refund.   I asked him what was "IT" doing wrong.    He said that he was attempting to pull a shaft from a 975 "BUT" the body part that has the finger attached to it was forcing the body part to skew sideways and that the clamp pad area was all askew also.   He did state that the new 3" clamp was holding.      I asked him if he preheated the head,  "NO" he said, I'm just trying to pull it like I do anyother shaft.    I then asked him if he had any problems pulling anyother shafts, he said "NO" this is the first try.   I then said "You mean you've had the puller now for a little over 3 weeks and this is the very first chance to use it???"YES" he said.  I told the guy to preheat ????, he says, either in boiling water or a deep fryer and get back to me before sending anything back.    So I don't hear a word from him for over a week until Tuesday at which out of the blue UPS delivered me a package, which I had to sign for.   I took the puller out to the shop and open the box and there was the puller looking good minus the rubber clamp pad.    I had my worker, yes guys I'm an employer again, pull a our 975 test piece, 15 minutes in the boiling water, 2 minutes to get it clamped in the puller, 2 more minutes of the heat gun on the top section of the head and off it came just like it was designed to do.   We then ran a dry reamer by finger power just to clean out the hosel and mixed some epoxy up and reglued it.    Yesterday we set up "THE" puller again, and again off came the head in 3 minutes, this time we had the puller in the vise before we tried to clamp/pull the shaft.    Using some SA 2000 we pulled the head twice again on Wed.       Again at quitting time on Wed, 3:30, we mixed up some more Cadnap Epoxy and let it set until 1;00 today.   Off it came again, little longer getting it off this time as Marion put the socket wrench away and we could find it for about 10 minutes, but there was still enough heat in the head for an easy pull.   What I'm getting at is now the guy wants a refund.    In the first place I gave him a discount for buying both items, $25.00, and there is "NOTHING" wrong with the puller, which I now have just over 75 minutes into pulling test shafts @ .65/minutes..      I think that I should give him back about $35.00, Marion says "GIVE HIM BACK$100.00.      What do you guys think???   Just thought of something that may help out pulling 975's.     Why no pour some light cooking oil down inside the shaft so that when your heating up the shaft the oil inside the shaft will also get hot and act like a "HOT ROD" like we do when pulling steel shafts from "WOOD" woods.    Just a thought, something to do tomorrow.     RK   Manufacturer's of World Class Golf Club Repair Equipment [EMAIL PROTECTED]