I typically use duct tape. If it can't be fixed with duct tape then its not fixable;-)
Carl --- Kevin Cahill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I agree with Bruce about using aluminum foil on > dark colored shafts. I used > to use aluminum or reflective tape but they > �stuck� too well and were a pain > to remove. Aluminum foil works fine and all you > have to do is wrap a small > piece around the shaft at the sensors. Then you > can slide it right off � no > mess, no fuss, > > Kevin > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On > Behalf Of Bruce Tunnicliffe > Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 9:12 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Frequency meters and > deflection boards > > Don�t use lead tape! That will increase the > weight and lower the frequency. > Use Aluminium foil, or a piece of white > electricians tape. > > Another thing that is very important is to make > sure the clamped end stays > still. A small vice that is not securely bolted > to a solid bench, that > shakes as the club is twanged, will also reduce > the frequency. It > effectively is saying the shaft is not clamped > at the point it enters the > clamp, but �back a bit�, where a �bit� depends > on how close to motionless > the vice is. Note that mounting it on a > lightweight table that also shakes, > will lower the readings too. > > Bruce > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On > Behalf Of Royce Engler > Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 9:50 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Frequency meters and > deflection boards > > I've had a Brunswick freq analyzer for several > years...one of the early > things I learned was the effect of clamping on > frequency. When I bought it, > I also bought a calibration shaft, and it turns > out that what you actually > do to calibrate the machine is change the > clamping location. Sooooo as it > turns out, the correct clamp length for my > **system** (and I'll elaborate on > that a little more in a minute) turns out to be > about 4". > > I mentioned the clamping "system"....here's > what that includes: The base of > the machine has a v shaped slot that the grip > is clamped into (you have to > measure shafts with grips on them...I have a > whole drawer full of split > grips). The shaft is clamped by a plate with > one end resting on the base, > and the other has a v-shaped slot that matches > the one on the base. The > clamping force is applied by a screw type > mechanism with a slip arrangement > that allows the handle to slip when it reaches > a certain torque (I have no > idea what that quantity is, but the > instructions say to turn it until you > get three clicks. This is similar to the clamp > knobs on the Golfsmith FA. > > One day I noticed that the clamp arrangement > was squeaking, and like any > good engineer, I took it apart and greased it. > Lo and behold, suddenly my > frequencies jumped. I "recalibrated" and found > that I needed to shorten the > clamping length to get the same frequency. > What had happened was that by > lubricating the clamp, I enabled it to get > tighter before the torque > limiters started slipping, thus the clamp > pressure had increased, resulting > in an increase in measured frequency. > > Enter the PCS Equalizer...The way the Equalizer > works is that it measures a > shaft against an arbitrary standard and assigns > a frequency to it. You then > measure the frequency of that shaft in your > machine, and compare the > measured frequency with the standard frequency > to get a conversion factor. > That conversion factor then generates a set of > curves similar to the FM > precision curves, but calibrated to your freq > analyzer, clamping system, and > all. Soooo..... > > The bottom line is that if I wanted to, I could > make a shaft read in a wide > range of frequencies, all of which would be > correct for the configuration of > clamping length, pressure, and grip. The key > is to get a good comparison > standard and try to be as consistent as > possible in how you clamp the shaft. > > Having said that, I do notice that sometimes > the electronics get fooled by a > dark colored shaft. I noticed that sometimes a > black graphite shaft would > read quite a bit lower than others. What I > figured out was that the > electric eye that counts the times the shaft > goes by it couldn't always > "see" the shaft and missed counts, which leads > to a lower indicated > frequency. Solution is to keep some strips of > lead tape handy and wrap the > shaft where it is in the path of the sensor. > Also helps to have a good > strong light behind you pointing toward the > sensor. Steel shafts reflect > light better, so they don't seem to suffer from > the problem. > > Sorry for the long note, but hopefully it is > useful to someone. > > Royce > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On > Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 11:13 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Frequency meters and > deflection boards > Dave > > You are correct. That was a very good test. > It opened my eyes. The > clamping mechanism is more important than the > electronic side because it is > where all the variable seems to lie. The > electronics are pretty well > governed by design and components used while > the clamping mechanism as well > as the bench and its stability are where most > of the deviations seem to lie > between machines. I for one liked your home > made unit because yours broke > the CPMs down to less than one. I would like to > have one that breaks it down > to tenths which I think is overkill but that is > just me. > > Charlie B > ===== Carl Mc Kinley, PCS Certified Class 'A' Clubmaker [EMAIL PROTECTED] P T Barnum is the patron saint of expensive club manufacturers. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com
